RAC68

My 99 TL suddenly lost power and stopped. No it isn’t the ignition switch as all the dash lights illuminate properly when trying to start the car. Also, the starter turns as appropriately fast so the battery is also good. I pulled a plug and found I was getting spark and also pulled the PGM-FI for testing and it proved good as well. Jumpered the PGM-FI and the fuel pump runs, however, I have no way of checking the fuel pressure and was thinking of pulling an FI and connecting it to my Multimeter to see if the injectors are being triggered. At this point, I still have no idea what stopped the car and am getting quite frustrated.

The last point is that the tank was filled (not to full) early in the morning. No problem with a number of short trips and then, suddenly, started to loose power and then stalled hasn’t started again after. This morning, I suddenly thought to check the gas cap and all was tight. Opened up the cap and heard a little vacuum as proper and then retightened it and the car still did not start.

Any ideas?

Ray

Skirmich

I dont recall right but the 99s got the Inmobilizer system? If it does check that your car is detecting your key, common issue for not starting cars but crank..

RAC68

Thanks for responding Skirmich.

As I understand, when turning the key to II, the dash key icon will blink a few times and, if it is recognized, turn off. My dash key light does exactly that so I don’t think that is it…unless I am mistaken in my understanding of the way it works.

Thanks again…any other ideas if my understanding is correct or please correct me.

All the best,
Ray

victus1

As a quick check, pull the fuel pressure regulator line going to the rail, crank engine and see if it squirts fuel.
You should be able to hear the fuel pump priming with the ignition switch to on. Also, check the solder joints of the PGM-FI circuit. They are known to have cold solder that don't make contact. I resoldered all of mine just in case.

RAC68

Thanks Victus1,

I will crack the fuel line this morning. I had taken the PGM-FI apart to check the solders and they looked perfect. I also had a PGM-FI solenoid from a 93 Honda that looks different but is the same unit and it responded exactly as the original. I jumpered the wire end of its connector to transfer power to the pump and the pump runs. However, your suggestion will tell me if the pump is actually moving fuel.

Thanks again,
Ray

3.2TLc

Make sure that all of the associated fuses and relays are good.
Doublecheck the ignition switch and various interlocks.

ErickUa5

Maybe a jumped timing belt but check all electronics first, also a scan tool might be helpful to see if there's any codes to give you clues.

RAC68

Hi All and thank you for your responses. ErickUA5 may have touched on the problem. Today, a master mechanic friend came over to help me identify the problem and how it was causing the no-start condition. Keeping him up on my progress, he kept asking if the engine sounded correct when hitting the starter. To me it sounded OK, however, when he heard the engine turning over he was not that sure and felt it sounded too free. Although he mentioned this sound could have been caused by gas build-up, over the many tries to start, washing the cylinder walls. However, he pulled the covers off the cam gears and found the belt walking off the rear bank. This was a surprise as the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump were replaced three years ago at 105K miles and the car registered 143K miles at this time. Although I am concerned to find if the valves or other critical engine components were damaged, we will find what has broken within the next few days and I will keep the group informed.

By the way, there seems to still be tension on the belt and the engine and belt are still turning when cranked.

Thanks again,
Ray

RAC68

Problem Solved.

Today, the timing belt was taken off the engine and the problem was that the belt had jumped and was walking off the rear cam sprocket because the retaining nub holding the tensioner pulley had loosened. Since is had performed for the last 3 years and 40+K miles without notice of incident, what made it loosen is still a mystery. Although when tightened, the pulley turned smoothly and quietly with not bearing issue, replacing idler and tension pulleys and the timing belt seemed appropriate. As a complete installable item, I had not checked whether this not was tight during the initial timing belt replacement, however, I would now do it and recommend that not make my assumption or risk my result. Luckily, the valves were not harmed.

Thanks for all the suggestions and insights.
Ray