01tl4tl

the wife says I should write a car car basics--things your mechanic wont tell you-
E-book,,,maybe get `a round tuit` for that project to happen

my real project is writing and audio guided mediation series- to find the core of each of your negative reaction `buttons`-
what happend when you were 5 that caused a certain belief pattern??,,,
learn to remove those and reprogram yourself for whatever you really desire to manifest in items or attract money,,love,,happiness into your life,,, and keep it there every day

azine is my practice area for methods of communicating to MANY different personalities,,its a learning curve for sure!
5 years and I finally piss off only a few people~ and appear to be somewhat respected <g> thats big progress!!

thanks to all of you who appreciate my post, and those who send private or public thanks--those really help me to keep on truckin
disclosure: traded the truck for a bike a few years ago,,much happier!!

lojik

That's truly funny, my next project is SeaFoam, lets hope I can keep from screwing that up. I've read the DIY and it mentions 2 points of entry and then I asked a question and someone said If I remember, that there are 3 points of entry(I prob need to read again). We'll see how it goes for me. I truly cannot wait to feel the promising effects I have read of SeaFoam. My car could use that. Since my EGR cleaning it has been a huge improvement but based on that It sounds like SeaFoam is the Clean-up Hitter.

Thank You guys both once again, I have been waiting for my monkey to be available and he is finally free today so soon enough (with my new-found confidence in brakes) if all goes well my brakes will finally be taken care of later. Look forward to it, can't be anymore ready.

This thread is truly, at least for me like a new chip implanted in my brain about brakes, I feel like Trinity when Tank uploaded the Helicopter Flying Software into her brain in The Matrix. You have just manipulated the parameters of my brain and for that I am grateful.

rcb2000

actually soapy water and scrub brush work much bettter and cleaning them before you install them on the hub works much better than spraying them down with brake clean.


I am not of the school of thought you need to use a torque wrench on every little bolt on the car, only places I worry about are bearing caps, flex plates and harmonic balancers, everything else is common sence to me, but I've turned a wrench or two and know what 50 lbs and 25 lbs feel like. I am also not in the camp that feels the brakes need to be bleed before or after changing the pads, the theory that there could be rust or dirt within the system means the seals have failed or the dust boots have failed allowing dirt into the system, I also don't get excited about removing brake fluid, typically you do not have to add fluid as the pads ware if you do add fluid then your going to have problems when you change the pads and make a mess.

lojik

"to find the core of each of your negative reaction `buttons`-
what happened when you were 5 that caused a certain belief pattern??,,,learn to remove those and reprogram yourself for whatever you really desire to manifest in items or attract money,,love,,happiness into your life,,, and keep it there every day"

I carry a constant awareness of this subject daily and tend to be drawn in to it's principles' roots myself as well and I can most certainly tell by your toned responses that you make a concerted effort to be able to adjust and method-ize your information to be understood by different personalities. You have done a magnificent job with me and as you've heard a trillion times from me I couldn't thank you enough.

If you do find or epiphanize any new information to the topic of self re-programming I would be delighted to rationalize it out a bit with you if your open. I have recently begun to take an extremely heavy interest in NeuroLinguistic Programming and that's right up that alley.

Good luck in any en devour you take on. I'm sure you will succeed through your preparation, don't hesitate.

farmdevil

I guess I'd want to know "better than what?" The brake parts cleaner gets them as clean as anything. I'm sure putting all of my brake parts in the dishwasher would get them cleaner, but for what purpose? All that really matters is that no grease is on the friction surfaces.

I don't use a torque wrench on things where I can't get access, but if I can reach it why not use the torque wrench. Also I wouldn't trust my muscle memory to equally tighten my lug nuts.

I generally don't, but on my last brake job I likely killed my ABS pump for just that reason. Those are expensive. And dirt gets in your system because there are metal parts in the system and brake fluid is hygroscopic, collecting moisture from the environment. Water and metal causes rust.

It's all about being at spec when you complete the job. Sure the brakes will work with a bit less fluid, but why not make sure it's just right and not touch it for another year or two?

farmdevil

And for 01tl4tl, by suggesting a service manual, I'm not saying one shouldn't know their limits. I own a service manual but I don't remove the engine just because that section is in there. But if somebody is truly too limited in ability/desire to be working on their car, they probably shouldn't be working on the system that makes it stop.

rcb2000

wow your out there dude, the reference was to the rotor and soap and water, guess you've never notice the film the brake clean leaves. Regarding torque and using a torque wrench on everything you can get access to just shows what a shade tree mechanic you are as you can walk in to any reputable shop and sit and watch all day and count on one hand how many times a torque wrench is actually picked up for the month. The important thing when torquing wheels is that they are all the same and that is pretty easy to do with out a torque wrench. And if you actually pushed that much fluid back into the system to make it get to the ABS pump your crazy. The fluid level comment was in regard to inbetween changes not after you have changed the pads then check "brakes 101". Time is money and DIcking around as you suggest cost tons of money I would soon not loose but if you want to check my work you can. others have and where surprised when the torque was spot on but i dID it for a living and your learn how to be fast without cutting corners, but I did forget to mention head bolts too as one of the bolts I would actually torque with a torque wrench. But then again I was taught by a ASE certified master Diesel and master gasoline tech their are about three per state My dad happens to be one of the Indiana representitives.

farmdevil

All of this training must have really inflated your ego. You spend an awful lot of time insulting people around here.

The reason I do things the way I do is that I'm an engineer and I'm meticulous. I respect engineering specs because they are what were intended in the design. Perhaps in practice is doesn't matter but you don't have any grounds to criticize because I follow the directions, and I'm certainly not going to tell an inexperienced mechanic to torque bolts any which way he wants.

01tl4tl

because the brakes are very important, and the person this thread is helping is brand new to this job and its special tools,,I think its safest to give them a torque wrench and instructions on operation-
do the job to spec- then you know what it feels like,, and can rest assured things are at setting the engineers decided upon

while the shop tech is happy to blast things on with way too much torque from an air gun , I have also seen the bracket threads RIPPED from the bracket!! ckd other bracket bolts--132 pds,,thats way over spec by nearly 100 pounds--done at acura dealer!!

if you severly overtighten the caliper bolts- you limit its abilty to slide when piston is extended- hindering braking

I dont use the t/w much these days, but small amounts like intake manifold, those get it.
80 on the wheel lugs I can do by hand and be on spec,,its not that difficult

01tl4tl

I suggest brake flush before working on brakes = assuming the fluid is several years old and has gone thru so much hygroscopic action- (which is the fluids natural abilty to suck atmospheric moisture right past that skimpy oring seal on the master cyl cap)
that getting rid of it its the best plan

once inside, the moisture droplets can be compressed- while brake fluid doesnt compress, its moved forward and back as pedal is pushed,,it does not circulate.
That means the moisture gets pushed all the way to the calipers, where it can sit and turn to micro-rust particulate matter

the caliper piston also has a skimpy rubber oring as its only seal,
cut that with some crud and there will be a problem~
At that point the caliper bore is probably crusted and pitted- means its replacement caliper time

getting old fluid out first is a safety precaution, cheap insurance
or doing after is fine too- if you change the fluid every 2-3 years as acura says.
If you drive it hard, I would change fluid every 12 months,,more often if you really abuse the brakes
if the pedal feels weaker--its probably got moisture in it and needs flush.. 90% of the time

lojik

Hi guys, I started my brakes today, wish I could say I finished them. Had some rotor bolt issues blah blah blah, took me way longer than I had hoped so I was not able to finish. I did the fronts I understand the brakes are expected to feel horrible somewhat at first(which they do). Is it ok that I did only the fronts which means I have new Synthetic fluid in front but old non synthetic and old brakes in rear. Is that ok for a day , I heard a while ago that synthetic and regular of any oil is not supposed to mix, should I worry?

I read in another post here that the break-in process is to drive a couple miles on a straight road at about 40mph and every 100 yards or so brake down to 20mph and then back up and so-on and so-on, so I did. Got home and my brakes smelled burned , is that normal? Also I park on an uphill and my e-brake was loose as can be. And while driving, sure my brakes felt very soft and not quite secure in terms of stopping power.

These are my current observations, I think i've read here and there and I think most of this stuff was supposed to happen but me not doing all 4 brakes at once wasn't so if you can please let me know what you guys think of all this? Will it correct itself or can I correct it?

Thanks guys , it all was pretty straight forward stuff once I got into it thanks to this thread. Only thing that I was iffy onwas which was which as far as the Torquing was concerned, On the 2 first bolts on the caliper that I removed which had that little boot around the bolt that is compressible I did the lower torque of 36ft lbs and on the lower back ones that are more hidden and are bigger than the top ones I did at 79.6 ft lbs(the ones harder to reach). The torque spec description of both was 4 letters long and were too similar for me to clearly distinguish which was which (Front Caliper Bracket Bolts&Front Caliper Body Bolts) I went with the bigger one being the higher torque and the smaller more visible ones that had the little flex boot, I went with the lower torque. If I'm wrong please advise, would really hate to screw this up after getting this far or maybe even ruin my new equipment.

Thanks guys, looks like I just missed you all. Have a good night.

01tl4tl

the fluids wont mix- they dont circulate just go back and forth a tiny bit,,about the amount you got on one bleed
We dont know how well you followed the instructions on flush- that could be part of your problem now
where did you read how to bed brakes? that depends on exactly what rotors and pads you are running
but the method you desribe is very unusual..as in I never heard of any like that!!
Basically- if street pads just drive normal in the next 500 miles
avoid use of ABS, do use light and medium pressure with occassional heavy pressure to get them started bedding gently

the park brake is adjusted seperate of the regular brake system, you can take care of it when the rear wheels are off for bleeding

you are correct on the torques,,I remembered that as 40 on caliper bracket (booted bolts the caliper has to slide on to move in action)
and 60 for larger bolts that attach bracket to car

01tl4tl

you can mix modern synth and regular fluids-
especially engine oils- you can run one this time and the other next- engine doesnt care

for the limited use of this combined brake fluid in your example, a day should be ok

01tl4tl

to ck for air in brake system do a quick double pump of the brakes,
if pedal is firmer 2nd time... there is air somewhere

rcb2000

yea I have to deal with the likes of you ever so often about ever other month, do it this way then that way then I thought it was this, lots of tail chasing waisting time IMHO.


Me and my buddy like to refer it to as a low dumb ass threshold when we respond back to them, usually you smile and move forward but after awhile it gets old and you have to say something and the threshold factor kicks in.

personally common sense should kick in, telling a guy that's a first timer to use a torque wrench assumes he actually has one. It would be much better get it tight and discribe it as tighten it down and then another 1/8 another 1/4 or turn using an 3/8 drive ratchet. Air tools on brakes please and over torquing the bolts causeing the caliber to bind reaching a little there.

farmdevil

I have no idea what you're even talking about anymore. If I thought somebody should cut corners when working on their car, I'd just tell them to take it to a shop. Working on the car takes time and hassle for those of us that don't do it everyday. If I just wanted it done "good enough," I wouldn't even be spending my Saturday on it.

rcb2000

really that's news to me brake fluid is by grade dot 3 dot 4 dot 5 and so fourth.

http://www.tccoa.com/brake-fluid/

totaledTL

Has it occurred to you that if somebody doesn't have the experience to judge how tight a fastener is & wants to learn, then a torque wrench is the obvious tool to use? Did somebody on here state that they assumed he has one, other than you-? Why knock somebody for trying to learn something in the correct manner?

BTW- I've used a hand vac. tool to bleed brakes & have found it very helpful and pretty easy to use. As mentioned make certain you use adapters that fit well. Also mine came w/ a small tube of grease that is used to create a seal betw. the container & lid. If it's not working well try that.

rcb2000

You have the guy jaking with the barke lines which he doesn't need to be. So now he has created problems for him self listening to your suggestions. Problem I have is SHOW ME IN THE SERVICE MANUAL where it states to bleed the brakes when changing the pads? YOU WON"T FIND IT ANYWHERE BTW. Soo now the guys jaked with the brakes lines interduced air into the system and he has no clue what air feels like in a brake line, he has taken apart the caliper further than he need too and as a result not knowing what torque value went with what bolt he has over torqued the bolt and damaged the threads since he has yeilded the strength of the material of the bolts.

All the guy needed to do is remove two bolts loosen another, rotate the caliper up and then remove the pads, push the piston back in, install the pads, rotate the caliber down and tighten three bolts per side.


Now the guy has air in the brake lines, mixed brake fluid types following the engineers expert advice and the extra BS steps you have suggested. Great JOB JAKING UP THE GUYS BRAKES FOR HIM. now he has to completed bleed the mixed fluid out of the lines deal with getting the air out of the lines .

BTW BRAKE FLUID IS NOT AN OIL DOT 3 and DOT 4 can be mixed but not wise you should use what's in it all ready. SYN typically is refered to as DOT 5 I have seen other dot grades as well so to state SYN fluid was used and is it ok for a day or to is no. Also the pedal should feel good right out of the box, yes you have to pump the brakes to push out the piston before the engine is ever started otherwise you have no brakes when you put it in gear, the pedal will not feel better or worse because you have seated the pads. Now the pedal may not be as high as it's going to be once you replace the rear pads. But you still have a lot of work to do.

totaledTL

--

I never said anything about calipers, etc., etc.....just that if he wants to learn how to torque fasteners then why not?

"...jaking with the barke lines..." <--whatever that's supposed to mean.


Do NOT mix DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1 (glycol-based) w/ DOT 5 (silicone) fluid.

lojik

Last night brakes seemed like the wheels turned a couple of extra times before stopping, like a bicycle with loose brakes. Today they feel much better, almost better I think than before my brake job so thats promising and stopping power seems strong but i'm stll braking slow and early just in case.

One thing I messed up while doing the passengers side is that I accidentally loosened the middle bolt on the caliper that has the hose attached to it, and this was after I bleed the brake and was taking it apart. Naturally I tightened everything and bled it again and I actually saw the bubbles come out and did the bleed about 5 to 6 times more after the last little bubble I saw. Then I went back and proceeded with the install.

FYI, the steps I used to bleed flush the fluid was this,.....have helper pump normally 4 times and hold the last one down, with a piece of wood to stop the pedal from going all the way down. Then I opened the valve and closed it a 2 seconds later and the again till clear and bubble free.(note:I never saw bubbles come out until I accidentally loosened the Brake line bolt and had to flush that out, the first and second tire had no bubbles until my mistake.)

Now, 01tl4tl... I did the double pump today like you said and the second pump was firmer than the first pump. So even though my brakes feel 80% better today , chances are that I still have bubbles?

If so , sounds like what it's really gonna cost me is some time and more fluid. I was thinking of when I do the rears, flush at first like normal, replace hardware(pads, rotors ect.) put it all back together and at the end of everything go back and do a bleed on all 4. Would that do the trick? I never let the mstr. cyln get too low but is there any way bubble can get in through the top? The reason I ask is when I'm done and do all 4 bleeds, I only plan on doing it about 5 to 8 more times per tire and I know that if there is somehow air at the top of my system and not at the bottom that 5 to 8 wont cut it , should I stick to that or do more than that at the end. Also is the hissing sound of pressure normal every time I open the bleed valve, at first I though there was a loose connection with my hose but really I figured I would see a squirt or something other than an occasional drip if that were the case. Like I said plan on bleeding again after, just want to make sure I do it right.

Thanks everyone for chiming in here, getting lively a bit but all very helpful, Thanks again.

Good day to all.

lojik

Also my help is not around and won't be able after all to finish today, any thoughts on that or problems ?

totaledTL

Get the vac. tool so you can do it solo. Sears, HF, AZ, etc.

01tl4tl

your abilty to make up own instructions,, that directly counter specific ones given to you here and by PM, ie: DONT ever touch the bolt on the brake line to caliper!!!! continues to amaze me lojik,,where is your logic??

you got air in,,its not a big deal to fix
and you might not have tightened it back up enough (14 foot lbs)
OR the crush washers were only good for one crush seal and needs 2 new.
normally you replace those copper rings anytime a line was off, with new calipers etc

for now lets assume you just need to do the bleed correctly!

dont understand what you mean here:
opened valve 2 seconds,,,
you are supposed to open valve the minimum amount needed to let fluid out,,1/4 of a turn or less,,just a little~

VERY IMPORTANT!!!!
helper keeps pressure on pedal as it goes down and hits the wood stopper and holds it down until you say otherwise

helper says Down! and holds pedal down--you close valve- say OK!
helper pumps up again,,Holding! you open valve, pedal drops to stop- Down! you close valve, OK!! pumps again

what I meant by ok to run the fluid mix for a day in these brakes wasnt about running mixed fluid all the time
that was based on car has old dot 3 or 4 now, and using DOT 3/4 as replacement
Note they sell it as 3/4 now,,meaning it exceeds spec3 and is spec4
that is a Dept Of Transportation = DOT- standards for the fluid

Of particular note is to NEVER use dot 5.0 thats Five point ZERO in the TL is no no
its silicone ingredients are bad news for us!

ok to use 5.1 thats 5 point ONE for racer types that get the fluid hothot

brake flushing isnt in the brake parts repair section, its in scheduled maitenance= where acura says start at year 3 of the cars life, then every year or 2,(depends on severe service) to maintain clean non- contaminated fluid in the system to protect parts and system works at its best
that keeps best `feeling` brake pedal too

we did have a discussion on here re: what torque wrench and how to self calibrate it etc for the noobs,,the ziner in question purchased one.
Air tools were mentioned only as the shops device of destruction in a story of damage

Yes,, its hard to bind the calipers- but if the pins are not greased and they are too tight- I have seen it impinge caliper operation--that was fixing a diy job
The threads ripped from the bracket was a car done at dealer, still didnt brake right so the ziner came to me--caliper was hanging forward!!!
You cant get that bracket without ordering an entire caliper!! (only 80$ aftermarket for whole caliper with bracket) $300 at dealer!!!
that service manager sheepishly and quitely got another bracket for them~
many bolts were at 130-140 pounds--even the wheels, bracket..

01tl4tl

vac tool is the way to go - helpers get tired of pumping the pedal and get lax in the procedure of how they are building up system pressure to push fluid thru

no, air didnt get in thru the master cyl --unless you uncovered a line~
then air would be there for you to get out

farmdevil

I've gotta say I've never actually used or seen one of the one-man tools used, but I installed speed bleeders on mine and that almost seems like the easiest method for somebody without much experience. With those it doesn't really matter if you accidentally let your foot up when you shouldn't. I'm definitely not suggesting that Lojik switch focus at this point, but any other n00bs reading this thread might find them useful. I really like them because, even though I am capable of bleeding my brakes the traditional way, now that they are installed bleeding the brakes is trivial.

rcb2000

ditch the wood under the pedal crap, let it go to the floor if it wants because it won't actually make it.

Vaccum is the way to go hell you can almost crack the bleed and let gravity do it for you the key is not letting the pedal raise up if the bleed is open that is when the air enters the system. When you crack a fitting or line at any other point other than the bleeder you enterduce air into the system. The only caliper you need to worry about bleeding is the one that you opened the the line on. Leave the rest of them along and just change the pads. If you are not changing the rotors then the pedal will not be as high as it could be but the pedal should still feel firm and not spongy if it is spongy feeling then you have air in the system. You cannot get air in the top side of the system unless you run the reservoir empty and suck air into the system.

01tl4tl

the reason for noobs to place wood under brake pedal is scientific and proven beyond a doubt in real world reports

the area of the master cylinder bore beyond the `normal travel limits` of the part-
are often not as smooth= and can easily damage an oring
the system is meant to operate in a specific range--`as installed` range

When you open the bleeder its entirely possible for helper to push the pedal `to the floor` and well past its normal range. do that every time they have to push pedal to eject fluid and you have worn out a master cyl seal--
(happens to clutch cyls too- for manual trans cars)
As I said before- go ck it out for yourself, note distance remaining with system closed and opened

the wood trick is well known and used on many types of cars - its talked about on here by more than just me,,its a safety measure for noobs,,especially their helpers!!

rcb: you are not the only person here with experience/knowledge,,
but you may be the only one who doesnt know details of the TL--
meaning you might not even own one!!!

seems like you and your group of old bored engineers just like to give people sh*^!!
lightweight pulleys are fine, being careful for noobs is important on every job,
brake pads and rotors make a differance in stopping distance, so do tires and shocks!
torque is important- especially on small bolts that snap off in the head!!

honestly--why are you here?

rcb2000

I love your paranoid attitude you like to instill in to the unknowing and if they don't this they are screwed. Travel of the pedal and a piece of wood and the the normal range you act like that range never changes and in fact it does and as the pads wear more fluid is required and if the self adjuster isn't self adjusted you have more travel over that normal range. It takes years of abuse to accumulate enough water to rust the bore of the caliper, the piston won't ever, the amount of water absorb by the fluid is very very very F'n small as in you have to use a mass spectormeter to even see the shit. YES I DO OWN A F"N 2000 TL and the F'n thing isn't any different than any other F'n car on the damn road that uses the same basic materials and design layout.

Couple facts from the Servce manual 45,000/3yrs is the recomemend interval on flushing the fluid and they specificly state DOT 3. why so fools like some on here take there cars to the dealer AKA you Bought in the the F'n MARKETING BULLSHIT

totaledTL

Guess I'll have to add another ......

I've seen a few caliper pistons w/ rust on the surface that travels in the bore- it must have happened for a reason.

And no, I don't work on cars for a living so my experiences are of a personal nature. Meaning I haven't seen nearly as many brake systems as a mechanic.

rcb2000

interesting since most are made of cast aluminum that doesn't rust unlike the cast iron the the housing is made of.

farmdevil

I know on my truck the brake lines are not immune to water. I've had them rust through from the outside, so it seems like rust could happen on the inside just as well. Not every part exposed to brake fluid is aluminum.

And let's say hypothetically you are right and almost no water gets in the fluid. Have you ever noticed brake rotors accumulate surface rust overnight? It doesn't take much moisture to cause rust.

rcb2000

that's funny over night a rotor will rust, cast iron, oh and it's called oxidation and which water does not have to be present, Brake lines are typically made from 303 stainless unpassivated or even passivated they will rust over time from the out side but again that is not to say it's on the inside and that isn't going to happen over night eight ten years yea and if there is rust interanally then the wall is weak and it will bust out when force is applied by the master cyclinder to the fluid inside of the line.

If you two dicks want to keep harping on situations that occur less than 1% of the time knock your fucking selves out scaring the kidds with useless bullshit.

totaledTL

Was merely sharing what I've seen w/ my own eyes. Where did you get that (1%) reference? I'd like to read that-
Have flushed out some really nasty looking fluid in my time too. I wonder how it got that way...

Now that you again resort to name calling it only solidifies how immature you must be.

farmdevil

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust

Rust is oxidation, bozo, and the first sentence of that link says that it is in the presence of water.

lojik

Here to say thanks again , to all that helped except rcb2000, I learned nothing from you , I tried to take what you said in but generally speaking is was pure crap based on an arrogant episode.

01tl4tl Thank You again and again, you are super duper patient and helpful and Thankyou. You too FarmD, Thanks

It all worked out nicely, I do a quick double pump and the pedal feels just about the same pressure both pumps.

400 miles in felling good.

One thing now that I think about it, before my brake job ,very rarely if I was coming to a stop and hit the brakes and at the same time ran over 2 or 3 consecutive bumps it felt like the brakes slipped a bit and stopping power reduced until I let the pedal go and pressed it again which made it fine istantly. I thought with new brakes ,that that would go, but it still happens every once in a long while. It also happens when I am exiting my drive way downhill and backwards when I remove the e-brake and begin to roll back and brake at the bottom of my driveway.

Is that normal always or is that a symptom of bad calipers or lines?

Thanks everyone that helps . And thanks for you that got me through this one.

RC99TL

Wow, what a thread!

Over stutter bumps under braking the ABS can kick in.
Just hold and modulate a firm pedal and let the electronics do the work.
The days of pumping the brakes are sadly over.

01tl4tl

pedal should feel exactly the same on a double pump, or you do have air in the system.
If lines were opened or if never changed flud before, do the 2 45 mph abs active stops- if 2nd effort has firmer pedal there was air in the abs controller- rebleed system
Now that you are good at it, takes what-15-20 minutes total?,,,
when in doubt change the fluid out
thats why I say do it every year,, its too simple for the return you get in braking!

ABS active shakes the pedal rapidly under your foot, and operates based on a major differance in wheel speed,
the traction control feature only works below 16mph and Im not sure it has any reverse feature

01tl4tl

rc--
want to make sure you understand the different things we are discussing
the `abs air test` is after certain major work on the system

ABS Active is when you HOLD the brakes on with maximum effort-
while you steer around the crash/object, while standing on the brakes--
the pedal will will feel like a fast stutter as the system applies and releases 1 brake until it slows down to match the others
Swerving will increase its operation for testing and learning purposes on a wet parking lot

If you depend on that MAX effort to ABS for `normal braking`-
a neck injury and short brake pad life are likely results!!

and if the abs is that sensative there is a system prob,,I can barely get mine to activate in the worst conditions with good sticky tires!

When you brake normal the electronics have nothing to do with the braking
its a simple basic hydraulic piston system, push a pedal -
a little fluid under high pressure moves slightly forward in a line-pushes next part out- the caliper pistons-to create braking
then the fluid returns to original position when pedal released
brake fluid does not circulate like ps fluid,,another reason to change often

01tl4tl

I think reversing down a driveway in the morning freaks out the brakes

Normal operation is forward motion causes 2 self test of the ABS system, those noises you here at 5 and 15 mph