200k Maintenance
01-21-2009, 04:40 PM
#1
Cruisin'
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200k Maintenance
my first post on this forum, go easy.
Hello all!
I just bought a '02 TLs w/navi on Jan. 1st. w/192k
Previous owner was very good about maintenance, going to an acura dealer for every oil change about every 3 months.
Tranny was replaced at about 100k. Car as of today runs like a top with only 1 problem that I have noticed. When parked cold (MN winter) outside, I can hear a slight tick until it starts to warm up then it vanishes. I want to remove any questions as to what and when has been done.
I plan on doing the full 105k and am thinking about doing a valve adjustment in the next month. I'm not a novice mechanically, but i haven't attempted timing belt change or the valves before so i'll leave that to a pro.
I have been reading for the past 3 weeks here but found very little about this high a mileage maintenance.
I am wondering what else should I have them do while I have it in. Or better yet, what else should I do while im doing the basics ie, spark plugs, air filter, cabin filter, oil.
Hello all!
I just bought a '02 TLs w/navi on Jan. 1st. w/192k
Previous owner was very good about maintenance, going to an acura dealer for every oil change about every 3 months.
Tranny was replaced at about 100k. Car as of today runs like a top with only 1 problem that I have noticed. When parked cold (MN winter) outside, I can hear a slight tick until it starts to warm up then it vanishes. I want to remove any questions as to what and when has been done.
I plan on doing the full 105k and am thinking about doing a valve adjustment in the next month. I'm not a novice mechanically, but i haven't attempted timing belt change or the valves before so i'll leave that to a pro.
I have been reading for the past 3 weeks here but found very little about this high a mileage maintenance.
I am wondering what else should I have them do while I have it in. Or better yet, what else should I do while im doing the basics ie, spark plugs, air filter, cabin filter, oil.
01-21-2009, 04:48 PM
#2
Low & Slow w/Dubz On My
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first off Welcome to the forum and damn congratz on almost reaching the 200k mark...its things like this that i see and makes me happy that with proper maintenace myine will last that long...ur ticking will be the valve adjustment or maybe jus timing belt...u might wanna have them check motor mounts also...
01-21-2009, 05:00 PM
#3
the ticking is possibly a smog valve on the driver side- common wearout- $50
or maybe the ac belt tensioner pulley on the top of the engine passenger side
$85 plus labor- have it replaced along with all the tensioner pullies and idler pullies at the 105 service- make it like brand new
Do the spark plugs yourself- NGK Iridium IX , 7 bucks each at parts stores (25 each at dealer)
our mega moderator has over 250,000 on his 00 and going strong, still takes it to track days and goes full throttle and cruises hundreds of miles in a day and week for work
he pulled the engine apart at 200 and it was like new inside the cylinder walls
Here is the link to a free owner book- read online or download- click on year, then TL, wait for pdf file to open and have a good read
Many important safety feature you need to be aware of and driving technique tips- traction control and abs to understand
Its a very trick car- from seat heaters to passenger weight sensing
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp
You also want to register at 1-800-382-2238 x5 tell them you are the new owner,(never know when a recall will get issued and they should have your address) and athttp://owners.acura.com/registration/registerstepone.aspx
Need the cars VIN for both of those
Make sure you know the radio and nav security codes- store them on the acura account and write in several safe places for the future~
Have a read thru the maitenance list in the back section of the owner book-
Look at the fluids to see whats been changed or not- brake fluid is critical to flush-replace every year now, ps fluid needs to be done every 60k miles/3 years
DIY-Seafoam treatment will make it like new inside the engine to prep for its service/tune up
Welcome to our crazy group of acura nuts!
or maybe the ac belt tensioner pulley on the top of the engine passenger side
$85 plus labor- have it replaced along with all the tensioner pullies and idler pullies at the 105 service- make it like brand new
Do the spark plugs yourself- NGK Iridium IX , 7 bucks each at parts stores (25 each at dealer)
our mega moderator has over 250,000 on his 00 and going strong, still takes it to track days and goes full throttle and cruises hundreds of miles in a day and week for work
he pulled the engine apart at 200 and it was like new inside the cylinder walls
Here is the link to a free owner book- read online or download- click on year, then TL, wait for pdf file to open and have a good read
Many important safety feature you need to be aware of and driving technique tips- traction control and abs to understand
Its a very trick car- from seat heaters to passenger weight sensing
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp
You also want to register at 1-800-382-2238 x5 tell them you are the new owner,(never know when a recall will get issued and they should have your address) and athttp://owners.acura.com/registration/registerstepone.aspx
Need the cars VIN for both of those
Make sure you know the radio and nav security codes- store them on the acura account and write in several safe places for the future~
Have a read thru the maitenance list in the back section of the owner book-
Look at the fluids to see whats been changed or not- brake fluid is critical to flush-replace every year now, ps fluid needs to be done every 60k miles/3 years
DIY-Seafoam treatment will make it like new inside the engine to prep for its service/tune up
Welcome to our crazy group of acura nuts!
01-21-2009, 05:07 PM
#4
For good things to do if you are bored- take the brakes apart- clean and lube the parking brake shoes (inside the rear rotor) lube the caliper pins and pad sliders so the brakes work smooth
Clean the wheels and apply 3 coats synthetic car wax- that will cut down on brake pad dust adhesion- makes rim cleanup easy with normal car washing
Expect to learn a lot about detailing- click the Off Topic link at top of these pages, then Wash & Wax section,,,more info on techniques by hand or machine-products- help and tips than you will ever need,,,
be assured a few hours of elbow grease type labor will reveal a glimmering car that looks fresh from the paint shop
Clean the wheels and apply 3 coats synthetic car wax- that will cut down on brake pad dust adhesion- makes rim cleanup easy with normal car washing
Expect to learn a lot about detailing- click the Off Topic link at top of these pages, then Wash & Wax section,,,more info on techniques by hand or machine-products- help and tips than you will ever need,,,
be assured a few hours of elbow grease type labor will reveal a glimmering car that looks fresh from the paint shop
01-21-2009, 07:57 PM
#5
Cruisin'
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first off Welcome to the forum and damn congratz on almost reaching the 200k mark...its things like this that i see and makes me happy that with proper maintenace myine will last that long...ur ticking will be the valve adjustment or maybe jus timing belt...u might wanna have them check motor mounts also...
the ticking is possibly a smog valve on the driver side- common wearout- $50
or maybe the ac belt tensioner pulley on the top of the engine passenger side
$85 plus labor- have it replaced along with all the tensioner pullies and idler pullies at the 105 service- make it like brand new
Do the spark plugs yourself- NGK Iridium IX , 7 bucks each at parts stores (25 each at dealer)
our mega moderator has over 250,000 on his 00 and going strong, still takes it to track days and goes full throttle and cruises hundreds of miles in a day and week for work
he pulled the engine apart at 200 and it was like new inside the cylinder walls
Here is the link to a free owner book- read online or download- click on year, then TL, wait for pdf file to open and have a good read
Many important safety feature you need to be aware of and driving technique tips- traction control and abs to understand
Its a very trick car- from seat heaters to passenger weight sensing
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp
You also want to register at 1-800-382-2238 x5 tell them you are the new owner,(never know when a recall will get issued and they should have your address) and athttp://owners.acura.com/registration/registerstepone.aspx
Need the cars VIN for both of those
Make sure you know the radio and nav security codes- store them on the acura account and write in several safe places for the future~
Have a read thru the maitenance list in the back section of the owner book-
Look at the fluids to see whats been changed or not- brake fluid is critical to flush-replace every year now, ps fluid needs to be done every 60k miles/3 years
DIY-Seafoam treatment will make it like new inside the engine to prep for its service/tune up
Welcome to our crazy group of acura nuts!
or maybe the ac belt tensioner pulley on the top of the engine passenger side
$85 plus labor- have it replaced along with all the tensioner pullies and idler pullies at the 105 service- make it like brand new
Do the spark plugs yourself- NGK Iridium IX , 7 bucks each at parts stores (25 each at dealer)
our mega moderator has over 250,000 on his 00 and going strong, still takes it to track days and goes full throttle and cruises hundreds of miles in a day and week for work
he pulled the engine apart at 200 and it was like new inside the cylinder walls
Here is the link to a free owner book- read online or download- click on year, then TL, wait for pdf file to open and have a good read
Many important safety feature you need to be aware of and driving technique tips- traction control and abs to understand
Its a very trick car- from seat heaters to passenger weight sensing
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp
You also want to register at 1-800-382-2238 x5 tell them you are the new owner,(never know when a recall will get issued and they should have your address) and athttp://owners.acura.com/registration/registerstepone.aspx
Need the cars VIN for both of those
Make sure you know the radio and nav security codes- store them on the acura account and write in several safe places for the future~
Have a read thru the maitenance list in the back section of the owner book-
Look at the fluids to see whats been changed or not- brake fluid is critical to flush-replace every year now, ps fluid needs to be done every 60k miles/3 years
DIY-Seafoam treatment will make it like new inside the engine to prep for its service/tune up
Welcome to our crazy group of acura nuts!
Ticking was coming from front left side of the engine bay so it could be the ac tensioner pulley, I planned on having that replaced with my 105k. Want to bring it back up as close to factory specs as possible. Although I am playing with the idea of upgrading to light weight pulleys. Spark plus, im all over those.
I read a few of the mega mods posts, cylinder walls still had the crosshatch!
I tried looking at that link before I bought the car, but it would only download the table of contents. The car did come with the owners manual, I haven’t read it cover to cover yet, only a few select items but is on my agenda. Registered the day after a bought the car J I will check out the acura owner’s site, sounds like a cool idea. Having 1 place to find and log everything. I did find the security codes in the back of the manual and put them in my safe.
I read somewhere here that the brake fluid should be flushed every year and thought that it sounded strange so I didn’t continue reading. Guess I’ll take another look and find out why.
I was planning on flushing all fluids, but was unsure of the transmission fluid. Some say it should be done every 30k, others say don’t touch it.
I read a bit about the Seafoam cleaning, I still want to read more about it but I will do it before I take it in.
For good things to do if you are bored- take the brakes apart- clean and lube the parking brake shoes (inside the rear rotor) lube the caliper pins and pad sliders so the brakes work smooth
Clean the wheels and apply 3 coats synthetic car wax- that will cut down on brake pad dust adhesion- makes rim cleanup easy with normal car washing
Expect to learn a lot about detailing- click the Off Topic link at top of these pages, then Wash & Wax section,,,more info on techniques by hand or machine-products- help and tips than you will ever need,,,
be assured a few hours of elbow grease type labor will reveal a glimmering car that looks fresh from the paint shop
Clean the wheels and apply 3 coats synthetic car wax- that will cut down on brake pad dust adhesion- makes rim cleanup easy with normal car washing
Expect to learn a lot about detailing- click the Off Topic link at top of these pages, then Wash & Wax section,,,more info on techniques by hand or machine-products- help and tips than you will ever need,,,
be assured a few hours of elbow grease type labor will reveal a glimmering car that looks fresh from the paint shop
We all love shinny cars J I will probably cheat and go to my friends detail shop and let him do the labor twice a year. I’ll check it out for those weekly washes.
Thanks for the tips
01-21-2009, 08:52 PM
#6
brake fluid is hygroscopic- it sucks moisture from the air, past the measly oring of the master cyl cap and into the brake fluid- here is where the fun starts
The brake fluid only gets moved a very short distance forward then retreats with brake pedal use. It does not circulate like other fluids so there is not the opportunity for it to get hot and dry out the moisture like the power steering can.
Brake fluid does not compress under pressure- it moves- while water will compress- into micro droplets that DO get pushed thru the brake lines- the ABS controller - down to the calipers,,where it sits until someone works on the brakes
They take the calipers off and move twist and turn them, then push the pistons in, stirring up all the settled crud so the thin oring gets a micro cut and begins to leak
Its smartest to flush the brake fluid before doing any brake work- and leave the master 1/2 full so as you compress the pistons the fluid has a place to go. Since its clean fresh fluid its ok to backwash it a little that way..dirty fluid backwash...no one likes that!
The brake fluid only gets moved a very short distance forward then retreats with brake pedal use. It does not circulate like other fluids so there is not the opportunity for it to get hot and dry out the moisture like the power steering can.
Brake fluid does not compress under pressure- it moves- while water will compress- into micro droplets that DO get pushed thru the brake lines- the ABS controller - down to the calipers,,where it sits until someone works on the brakes
They take the calipers off and move twist and turn them, then push the pistons in, stirring up all the settled crud so the thin oring gets a micro cut and begins to leak
Its smartest to flush the brake fluid before doing any brake work- and leave the master 1/2 full so as you compress the pistons the fluid has a place to go. Since its clean fresh fluid its ok to backwash it a little that way..dirty fluid backwash...no one likes that!
01-21-2009, 08:56 PM
#7
If you can put gas in the car you can seafoam
the mega mod with 250k- he foamed every 7500-15,000 miles, no ill effects- incredible fuel mileage and parts longevity like no other car here
the mega mod with 250k- he foamed every 7500-15,000 miles, no ill effects- incredible fuel mileage and parts longevity like no other car here
Trending Topics
01-21-2009, 09:01 PM
#8
THREAD HIJACK!
jk, about the ticking on the driver side? Mine just started doing this the other day, I thought I had an exhaust leak.
It only does it when the car is on, therefore I pre-concluded it as an exhaust leak. Can you do this yourself?
To the OP: That's some good mileage, good to hear the previous owner took very good care of it! BTW, what color did you happen to get? I'm sure with maintence it will last a very long time!
jk, about the ticking on the driver side? Mine just started doing this the other day, I thought I had an exhaust leak.
It only does it when the car is on, therefore I pre-concluded it as an exhaust leak. Can you do this yourself?To the OP: That's some good mileage, good to hear the previous owner took very good care of it! BTW, what color did you happen to get? I'm sure with maintence it will last a very long time!
01-21-2009, 09:25 PM
#9
THREAD HIJACK!
jk, about the ticking on the driver side? Mine just started doing this the other day, I thought I had an exhaust leak. It only does it when the car is on, therefore I pre-concluded it as an exhaust leak. Can you do this yourself?
To the OP: That's some good mileage, good to hear the previous owner took very good care of it! BTW, what color did you happen to get? I'm sure with maintence it will last a very long time!
jk, about the ticking on the driver side? Mine just started doing this the other day, I thought I had an exhaust leak.
It only does it when the car is on, therefore I pre-concluded it as an exhaust leak. Can you do this yourself?To the OP: That's some good mileage, good to hear the previous owner took very good care of it! BTW, what color did you happen to get? I'm sure with maintence it will last a very long time!
01-21-2009, 09:31 PM
#10
Senior Moderator
Thanks! I plan on keeping this Acura for a very long. Valves were the first thing I thought of and probably havent been touched from factory. I didnt notice anything mentioned in all the receipts. there isn't much movement of the engine when reving in park so I think the mounts are ok, but I plan on having them atleast looked at.
01-22-2009, 08:35 AM
#11
Cruisin'
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01tl4tl
thanks for the explaination, it does make sence. I wonder why I have never heard about it on other forums or word of mouth though. Not a difficult procedure, I start doing that.
fsttyms1
sorry, I should have been more specific. The sound is coming from the passenger side front of the engine bay. But I only notice the ticking until the engine gets up to normal operating temperature then she is dead silent, almost eirie how quiet the TL is compared to my last car ('00 Integra GSR modded)
thanks for the explaination, it does make sence. I wonder why I have never heard about it on other forums or word of mouth though. Not a difficult procedure, I start doing that.
fsttyms1
sorry, I should have been more specific. The sound is coming from the passenger side front of the engine bay. But I only notice the ticking until the engine gets up to normal operating temperature then she is dead silent, almost eirie how quiet the TL is compared to my last car ('00 Integra GSR modded)
01-22-2009, 09:30 AM
#13
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brake fluid is hygroscopic- it sucks moisture from the air, past the measly oring of the master cyl cap and into the brake fluid- here is where the fun starts
The brake fluid only gets moved a very short distance forward then retreats with brake pedal use. It does not circulate like other fluids so there is not the opportunity for it to get hot and dry out the moisture like the power steering can.
Brake fluid does not compress under pressure- it moves- while water will compress- into micro droplets that DO get pushed thru the brake lines- the ABS controller - down to the calipers,,where it sits until someone works on the brakes
They take the calipers off and move twist and turn them, then push the pistons in, stirring up all the settled crud so the thin oring gets a micro cut and begins to leak
Its smartest to flush the brake fluid before doing any brake work- and leave the master 1/2 full so as you compress the pistons the fluid has a place to go. Since its clean fresh fluid its ok to backwash it a little that way..dirty fluid backwash...no one likes that!
The brake fluid only gets moved a very short distance forward then retreats with brake pedal use. It does not circulate like other fluids so there is not the opportunity for it to get hot and dry out the moisture like the power steering can.
Brake fluid does not compress under pressure- it moves- while water will compress- into micro droplets that DO get pushed thru the brake lines- the ABS controller - down to the calipers,,where it sits until someone works on the brakes
They take the calipers off and move twist and turn them, then push the pistons in, stirring up all the settled crud so the thin oring gets a micro cut and begins to leak
Its smartest to flush the brake fluid before doing any brake work- and leave the master 1/2 full so as you compress the pistons the fluid has a place to go. Since its clean fresh fluid its ok to backwash it a little that way..dirty fluid backwash...no one likes that!
I am all about maintenance but I have NEVER changed the brake fluid - only the rotors and pads. I have no issues with breaking right now and I have 152000 miles on the car.
I do plan on doing it soon just because, but I really do not think 1 time/year is really needed?
01-22-2009, 11:26 AM
#14
Cruisin'
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Congrats on your new ride! very weird though, I too just purchased an 02 TL-S w/ navi right after this past Christmas.. Mine has 178k so I am approaching 200k as well!!! My previous car was also a 00 GSR that was very very loud compared to the TL.
WEIRD!
WEIRD!
01-22-2009, 11:56 AM
#15
Cruisin'
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drummr8
wow! that is weird! Only bought the TL because I ended up having 2 kids and the Integra was was just to much of a pain to haul kids in. HUGE difference in ride quality but getting used to the extra weight and size has been slow.
can I ask what you paid for the new ride? I picked mine up for $4250.00, I couldnt say no.
wow! that is weird! Only bought the TL because I ended up having 2 kids and the Integra was was just to much of a pain to haul kids in. HUGE difference in ride quality but getting used to the extra weight and size has been slow.
can I ask what you paid for the new ride? I picked mine up for $4250.00, I couldnt say no.
01-23-2009, 08:02 AM
#18
In your owner book is the instructions to flush the brake fluid starting at year 3 and then every year after that. Gen3 TL same thing. Most cars-same thing
Its discussed on this forum ~ad naseum~ and most performance forums I have looked at, plus the bike forums say at least once a year `depending on riding style`
You will notice an immediate improvement in pedal firmness with a fluid change that makes it all brake fluid again~ Flush it- test drive- do other brake work if needed
Sure you can go years without doing it, then a caliper fails @ $75.99 plus install $150- which requires bleeding/flushing the brakes -
then another one fails- or maybe the $$$$ABS controller got rust particles in it- thats bad
Might be a front caliper might be a rear that goes first. Several of us have experienced it on the TL when the former owner didnt get it done, or we didnt realize it should be done. A few with partial stuck ON brake at one wheel- smoke- burning of all pad material...
The shops dont sell it like they should be doing, or the customer says 100 dollars is too much because it has not been explained- its hygroscopic man
100 is too much IMO becasue I can do it at home- the DIY is 45 minutes at a crawl
but if you dont have time and space/tools/temp, take it to a private shop that works on hondas/acuras
If they cant tell you the correct bleed order is start at driver front, LF RF RR LR,
run from there
Its discussed on this forum ~ad naseum~ and most performance forums I have looked at, plus the bike forums say at least once a year `depending on riding style`
You will notice an immediate improvement in pedal firmness with a fluid change that makes it all brake fluid again~ Flush it- test drive- do other brake work if needed
Sure you can go years without doing it, then a caliper fails @ $75.99 plus install $150- which requires bleeding/flushing the brakes -
then another one fails- or maybe the $$$$ABS controller got rust particles in it- thats bad
Might be a front caliper might be a rear that goes first. Several of us have experienced it on the TL when the former owner didnt get it done, or we didnt realize it should be done. A few with partial stuck ON brake at one wheel- smoke- burning of all pad material...
The shops dont sell it like they should be doing, or the customer says 100 dollars is too much because it has not been explained- its hygroscopic man
100 is too much IMO becasue I can do it at home- the DIY is 45 minutes at a crawl
but if you dont have time and space/tools/temp, take it to a private shop that works on hondas/acuras
If they cant tell you the correct bleed order is start at driver front, LF RF RR LR,
run from there
01-23-2009, 08:07 AM
#19
for those who drive and brake in a spirited manner- twice a year wont hurt.
Most who do track days will flush the brake fluid before the day- and again the next day since that fluid was definetly hothot and is ready for change out
For the race car we always flush the fluid after EACH session of just 20-30 minutes on course. Thats about 100 times the brakes have been used at max effort from 100+ mph to 30-60 in that short time period
Most who do track days will flush the brake fluid before the day- and again the next day since that fluid was definetly hothot and is ready for change out
For the race car we always flush the fluid after EACH session of just 20-30 minutes on course. Thats about 100 times the brakes have been used at max effort from 100+ mph to 30-60 in that short time period
01-23-2009, 08:57 AM
#20
Cruisin'
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once a year doesnt seem like its too much to ask for 45 minutes of your time. Hell if you rotate your own tires or switch out wheels for summer/winter, why not do it at the same time.
01-23-2009, 10:45 AM
#22
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damn dude 4250? that's hella cheap. I picked mine up for 5200 and thought that was a decent deal. now I feel stupid lol... this car is in immaculate condition inside and out though, so no complaints really. also, the GSR cost me around 5000 like a year and a half ago... and the TL is WAY nicer
Oh yea and my reason for switchin to the TL is because my teg got totaled
some chick cut me off and I T-boned her.
Oh yea and my reason for switchin to the TL is because my teg got totaled
some chick cut me off and I T-boned her.
01-23-2009, 11:04 AM
#24
IMO the brakes are the most important part of the car- whatever it takes to make them good is worth the investment
Without solid dependable braking,,,trees loom large in the windshield and your baby instantly becomes a twisted pile of metal headed on to be new beer cans
Without solid dependable braking,,,trees loom large in the windshield and your baby instantly becomes a twisted pile of metal headed on to be new beer cans
01-23-2009, 11:06 AM
#25
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damn dude 4250? that's hella cheap. I picked mine up for 5200 and thought that was a decent deal. now I feel stupid lol... this car is in immaculate condition inside and out though, so no complaints really. also, the GSR cost me around 5000 like a year and a half ago... and the TL is WAY nicer
Oh yea and my reason for switchin to the TL is because my teg got totaled some chick cut me off and I T-boned her.
Oh yea and my reason for switchin to the TL is because my teg got totaled
some chick cut me off and I T-boned her.
01-23-2009, 03:21 PM
#26
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I agree, I do all the work on my car I can. Oil/tranny fluid/tires/filters...I have replaced by pads and rotors also along with the struts/springs. guess I just have not gotten to the brake/steering fluid for some reason. but that is top on the list. I just find it hard to believe that 1 time/year is needed at all for "regular" drivers.
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