sixspdbrd

Where is the stock amp location? I know its supposed to be under? or behind? the back seat. Which one is it and how do you remove the seat? All I am doing is adding an amp anf sub so do I even need to mess with the stock amp or just run off of the existing subs input? Any help appreciated.

Longhorn TL

sixspdbrd-


I'm having audio stuff done to my car pretty soon and I have been into Cartoys and this is what they told me. Bose sound systems for the cars have individual amps for each of the speakers built in (mids only not sure about sub). The only thing you can really do is pull a signal from the existing system and wire in an additional sub and amp. Otherwise, you need to replace the whole audio system (face, mids, and sub). This is just wha they told me, but they said that I should have no problem wiring an additional sub to the system, but that's about as far as we can go without MAJOR work done to the audio sys. Hope this helps.

-Burt

SonyMan

The amp is about the size of a cigarette package and is located behind the passenger side of the back seat. To get to it you have to remove 4 bolts located between the seat bottoms and the seat back. There is one on each side of the center arm rest, and one on each outer side. They are 10mm I think. Anyway, once you remove those, just push the seat up and the top hooks will be free and the seat pops out. The amp itself os located on a small bracket, and when you are looking at it from inside the car, the amp is facing the trunk and you only see the underside of the metal bracket.
All that being said, your guy is mnot correct in that all of the speakers have their own amplification. The little amp behind the back seat is for the sub only, as the head unit has an eq/amp that is seperate from the head unit itself that runs the four door speakers. Each door speaker is only about 1 ohm though, which is why you would need to re-install new speakers if you wanted to upgrade power. Again, the head unit has 4 channel output that is actually quite clean, and is not eq'd or bass boosted in any way.
I ran from the head unit l and r out to an AudioLink line out converter to get RCA levels. From that to a PG line driver, then to the eq and amps for my system. If you compete though there will be a notable noise floor as soon as the internal muting in the factory deck is off, or when you turn the volume one notch. Aside from that, the output is good.
Good luck. I did my entire install at home, and had the car to the metal, so any additional help you need, I would be happy to offer.
By the way, there is room behind the head unit for the line output converter and the line driver so they can be buried too if you like.

SonyMan

By the way, if you only wanted to do the sub thing, you can tap off the input leads to that amp, as well as the remote turn on wire that runs to that amp, and install a new amp and sub right from there. You do not need a line output converter if you tap into the low level inputs before the amplification. I would not recommend using the outputs that run to your sub right now as it will not be a clean signal at all. You will need to run a seperate 12V line from the battery for your new amp though, as the power lead to that little amp will not be nearly enough to runa real amp.
Good luck!

SimTypeS

Thanks, Sony. You the Man. That's one of the more clear and informative write-ups I have seen on this, and I have been looking for one. Thanks for the help, and info.

rock

If the stock head unit has a built in amp, could I just replace the 4 speakers? Would the amp be able to drive 4 ohm speakers without overheating? The system is lacking some clean mids and highs, but I don't want to replace everything.

DarkStar

Hey Sonyman, can you help out and tell me what color wires you pluged into for your subs. If you plug into the Bose's wire for the subs then aren't you running off of the crossover point set for the sub.?? Thank you for any help you can offer.