Hi folks,
I went to test drive a 2000 TL today with my wife. A couple of observations.

1. The car has a slight "rough idle" when you're stopped and the car is in Drive. When I push the gearbox to neutral you don't feel it. I can feel this "roughness" thru the steering wheel. Is this normal? I figured for a v-6, the idle should be smooth compared to a 4banger. (I've done a search about this subject already and couldn't fine a real answer )

2. How much is the Nav-DVD upgrade disk?

3. What type of Michelen tires are "stock" on this car? MXV? Or MXV xxx? (they have like 5 types of MXV's!)

4. How much does a 60k service run for at a dealer in the San Francisco Bay Area?

I think that's it. It's a lovely car.

 

bump..

 

I've got a 2K TL also, so I may be able to help you out a bit here:

1. The only vibration I've noticed while the car is stopped, but in Drive, is when I first turn it on and it's below freezing outside. Once the car warms up, everything smoothes out. It seems that the tranny in the TL has had some serious issues with lasting the life of the car, but Acura is replacing them under warranty (tranny warranty has been extended to 100K). So, get the dealer to fix that.

2. Navi disks, when they decide to start shipping them again, are about $180 - $200 depending on shipping.

3. I think it's the MXV4 Plus 205/60VR16 that comes stock on TL-P's.

4. Not sure about this one, I'm not at 60K yet and I'm on the East Coast.

Not that you asked, but I love my car and don't regret buying it (I got it last May) and I've had my fair share of "things" that I had the dealer fix/replace under warranty. So far, the dealer has been more than happy to take care of me and honor everything under the warranty. Check around your area a bit and see what people say about the local Acura dealership(s).

 

Thanks for the info. I was able to figure out a couple of my questions after much searching. But then again a lot of the answers were mixed, so I don't know whats what.

The newest nav dvd seems to be on "hold" by acura.

The tire size is fine, I might just upgrade to 17" wheels instead.

Anyhow, my biggest concern is the "idling" issue of this car I'm looking at. The weather outside was in the 50s when I test drove the car. The car was already 'warm' by the time I drove it as we drove the car for a good 15-20miles and I was the 2nd driver (wife was the first driver).

The idle was "rough" (when I say "rough" in this case, I mean not "smooth like glass") while in gear when the car was completely stopped (stop light, traffic, etc.) Is this normal? I was expecting a V6 to be really smooth (not v8 smooth, but smoother then say a 4cylinder). I mean you can feel the vibrations thru the steering wheel.

Any help would be appreciated. I want to make a decision here soon.

Thanks!

 

I have a "rough" idle like you are describing on my 2000 Accord. In fact, mine is rough even in Park or Neutral, and roughER when in gear at a stop. Not quite sure what it is, Im currently trying to get the dealer to take care of the car's lack of performance. Perhaps they are related, I dont know.

As far as my wife's TL, I noticed that it is rough no matter what (in gear at a stop, or parked), until it warms up. Its almost like an on-off thing, once the car gets to a certain temp it totally smooths out.

Perhaps its a motor mount issue? Youd tend to think if it were an engine issue it would do it no matter what.

-Chris

 

how much are 2000 tl with navis going for?
have you consider 2002 tl-s with navi?
ive seen them going for 25k or less depending on miles

 

An '02 TL-S w/ nav would be great. But the price people are asking for those, I could buy a brand new '04 TL w/ nav for a bit more. I can't justify the prices people are asking for that car right now. (or for that money, I'd get a 5series, but that's a whole different ball of wax)

 

Check the dynamic engine mounts. They are vacuum controlled, and as they age, they lose their ability to hold vacuum--dynamic meaning depending on engine load, they are on either soft or hard mode. (at speed, hard mode to prevent driveline jerk--at idle, soft to prevent vibrations from transferring into the cabin.) This happened to my '93 Accord--didn't change the mount, biggest reason being they wanted 250 for just the mount! I think the Acura's have 2? I don't remember...

 

Could they also affect driveability? I know on my old Neon (yeah, I know, no comparison) if the front motor mount was worn, there was a lot of driveline "slack", and acceleration suffered (almost like it was bogging off the line).

Id have to think the issues would be even weirder with a vacuum controlled one, because its possible that it can "sort of" control itself, plus I bet there are no computer codes to signify something is up.

-Chris

 

vacuum motor mount? where can I verify this information?

 

i paid 14750 for my 2000 tl w/ navi but that was wholesale, and 25k for an 02 type s? I can get one for 22k-22500 easy. ones with higher miles would coss you less

 

i agree, it could be the motor mounts. i have 132,000 on mine and its just starting to have a slight rough idle, but i think its the plugs since there original. i would have them replaced first to see if that solves it, it could very easily be the plugs

 

This car has "only" 53k on it. I don't see the motor mounts going bad unless this guy abused/raced this car. As far as looking at it, it looks very clean and well taken care of.

Utimately, I will do a pre-purchase inspection. But I'm hoping to get some insight on this prior to the pre-purchase inspection.

Thanks

 

I had problems w/ rough idling (twice) and it turned out that they had to put a fuel pressure regulator kit in - under warrantee

Runs fine now.

RM

 

Couple things could cause rough idle. Engine mounts is one of them. By the way, I believe in our cars (and I have 2000 tlp) engine mounts are liquid filled, not vacuumed). Another cause can be fuel related: either fuel pressure, which is less likely (you would see this one driving fast on freeway and trying to accelerate. Your car would bog down.), or most likely reason with fuel is dirty injectors. The last problem - electrical system. Check ignition wires and/or codes stored in module.