LacViet

Some of you already knew that i purchased a used CT supercharged last month. After went throu few issues, my car is tune today and the result is good even I still have issue with low boost level. I have both hbp and hb s/c shaft pulley and only get 3.5 psi max. With hbp alone, I get like 1.5psi, and with bp s/c shaft pulley alone, I got like 2 psi??? My mechanic could not find any leak issue anywhere from air intake to the s/c and to the engine. I also just found out that I have small leak on the header today during dyno tune, but that should not cause drop like half the boost level isn't it? I'll fix it this weekend.

Anyway, here is the result after tunning from Church Automotive: max whp is 291.4 at aound 6600rpm, max torque is 245 at around 5250rpm. AFR is pretty much around 11.25. Tune using Greddy Ultimate. Temperature is around 86F, 45% humidity. If they let the engine cool down more instead just spray little bit of water on the engine and the s/c after tunning to get the number and if I fix my header leak, I might get few more hp, haha.





Compare with the dyno I had back in 2006 which before adding the S/C and thermoblock spacer, there is an increasing of 60whp and 50 tq.

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Nice #'s!

...imagine if you had a 6spd....

VoLLy

iTrader: (8)

havent seen #s like that in a long time. good job!

n1njai

iTrader: (3)

Nice.........

fsttyms1

if you dont have a leak id be inclined to say it may be the SC thats the problem?

p.diddy

iTrader: (3)

thats pretty low boost levels with the hbp there definatly something wrong. i just installed my blower im wondering much whp im pushing. i really need to get mine tuned.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

sweet, something to remember, if ur going with a 6spd swap, u cant use the ultimate, u need the blue. and those are some sick number for only 3.5lbs of boost. but still, 2-4k on a supercharge and only 60whp, ehh.

LacViet

That's what I'm also thinking but since it can make boost, then there shouldn't be any wrong with it? Anyway, I'm not worry about the low boost much as the car is running fine for now.

With hbp and correct boost, you should get over 300whp.

Yeah, I got really good deal on used ultimate with pnp hardness so I can't pass up the deal; otherwise, I would get the blue instead. My car still has original tranny and with 125k miles and since it's out of warranty so I would swap out with 6spd if the tranny went out, but I hope I don't have to go that route.

2-4k for s/c is alot, but if you want more power after having most if not all bolt on stuffs, and keep the car as daily driver, 60whp is not bad for 2-4k

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

havent had a good dyno run with my car, but for about $700 and a tune, im well over the 300whp with a 125shot dry. but everyone has the own way of making power

p.diddy

iTrader: (3)

thats what im hoping

fsttyms1

No, there could be something wrong with it since its only making that much. It should be making much more than that. The boost you do get is it stable or does it fluctuate?

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

its causing you too much headaches man.. you should just GIVE it to me.

lol

Rejckt

iTrader: (2)

Beat my 200whp @ 7-8 psi rofl...
I'm getting retuned next week and maybe I'll match your numbers :P

implicit

Aren't these sheets showing corrected power at the fly wheel? If so your actual wheel horse power will be a bit lower (whp). VERY strange you're only seeing 3.5 psi.

LacViet

The boost graph is pretty stable I think. I'll post the scan of the graph tomorrow, but it starts out at 2.5psi at 2750rpm, stay around 2.5 until around 3600rpm which it jump up to 3.2psi. Hold at those level and reach peak of 3.5psi at around 4800rpm. Slowly decline to 3.3psi until around 5600rpm, then gradually decline to 2.6psi at 6000rpm, then goes back up to 3psi at 6600rpm.
One other thing I think the reason of low boost is this s/c is the earlier model or pre-production model according to the seller. Anyway, car runs great tonight.

fsttyms1

Yes it will be about about 20-25% lower.

Why is it corrected flywheel and not WHP??




Early model or not i think something is wrong with the SC or something. It should produce more than 3.5. You may want to post this on the CL side. There are a few over there with much more knowledge on teh SC

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Your mod list at the bottom states that you have 'UR pullies'. Is your crank pulley underdrive?

fsttyms1

Ohh good catch.

EL19

iTrader: (4)

At first site seeing the boost that low the first thing that came to mind was an underdrive pulley. If thats the case the SC is getting underdriven thus making less boost. I was getting 5PSI at redline when my TLS was boosted on the low boost pulley

phee

iTrader: (5)

why isnt the graph Wheel horsepower?

EL19

iTrader: (4)

^^^ yea no way in hell he getting 291 to the crank/flywheel seeing as though the car is rated at about 250hp(corrected for new standards) at the flywheel/crank

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

i guess problem solved???



dibs on his UR pulley

LacViet

I'm pretty sure the crank pulley is stock size because I bought them new from UR. I might have to double check.

As for the flywheel thing, from what I understand, dynapack measure hp at the wheels hub, so it still measure wheel horse power per se minus the drag on the rim, tire, and inertia. Dynapack hp will be always little higher (some say 5-10hp, and some say less than 10%) then dynojet hp (which measure at the wheel). Here is an good article talking about it. When tunning, dynapack is better to use because it can consistency give out the same measure for every test run.

http://home.earthlink.net/~spchurch/id12.html

02type-s

Nice numbers, but im banking on youve got an underdrive pulley.

fsttyms1

Unless you ordered the stock sized it doesnt matter if it was ordered new or not. Most get the smaller one and that would explain your low boost.

As for the dyno, it has no way of knowing what loss is due to the drivetrain. They can guess but unless they do a baseline with and without the trans attached its only that a guess. I would ask for the actual WHP dyno. If they put in a correction factor of just 10% you would be in the neighborhood of 260ish at the wheels. The TL is right around 20-25%

LacViet

fsttyms1: you are GOD!

Stupid me! Back then, when I ordered UR pulley, I ask the local tune shop to order the "stock" size pulley set and install them for me. Parts arived and they installed and I never really check the box to see if that's the correct part until now! I just check the box and serial number on the crank pulley and it is "underdrive" size, not "stock" size that I want! Well, hope when I have a chance to replace the underdrive crank and put the stock acura crank pulley back on maybe next week, low boost issue can be resolve.

Question: since the crank pulley on my car right now is underdrive, so I use different belt size. What is belt part number for stock size pulley? Anyone know? I don't think I can use the same belt, do I?

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

post#22

dibs on pulley

LacViet

^if you can remove it and install the stock back on my car, then it's yours including lightweight alternator pulley also

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

^ being local ftw

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

gg huy.... and u kept teling me its stock size.. u r the failz.


hit me up if u want to order stock size LIGHT WEIGHT pulley. i'mma order the 3 piece set for $140 shipped

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

^ wait wtf..

hi.

CG2PROJECT

If you have an underdriven pulley, you should be getting MORE psi.. anyone can tell you that.

Why do you think jproy went with an underdriven setup? He used it so he doesn't have to bother with making a smaller shaft pulley.

LacViet

lol, I told the shop that I want stock size, I didn't know they ordered the wrong part!
I only need the crank since the alternator one cant be use b/c of the s/c. How much is just the crank?

LacViet

so then what the heck wrong with my car and the s/c??????? Steve: I want your s/c

CG2PROJECT

I asked Jim why the underdriven pulley setup for HIS MP90 retrofit..

Quoted from Jim:

Because at the 9psi boost level with the MP62 kit the ratios of the pulleys make the MP62 spin at about 18,700rpm. That is way above the 16000rpm rev limit of the MP62 before it starts to generate tons of heat into the intake air charge. The UR underdrive pulley allows you to use a lightend crank pulley while lowering the crank diameter from 175mm to 141mm. This change happens to be just right to, in conjunction with the HB alternator pulley and stock 3.8" jackshaft pulley, run the blower at 12,700rpm which equates to ~9-10 psi on the J32A2 motor. If you kept the same ratios with the MP62 on the MP90 and spun it at 18,700rpm you would be making a very very hot almost 20psi of boost and would either blow out the sleeves or pop the heads off the block the first time you floored the car up to redline.

Cliffs: More boost with underdriven pulley.



Hold that thought Huy.. you might have the UR SC Pulley not an UD one.. so yeah.

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

then give me yours. =]

we'll all be happy..

except steve.

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

so if huy changes his shaft pulley from the HB to the stock one. he'll be fine?

LacViet

lol, no! with hbp on the alternator and change shaft pulley back to stock size, I only boost like 1.5 psi!

LIPPSTUH

iTrader: (2)

in theory the underdrive crank pulley does increase PSI, but since your car is weird, i say you might as well try it and see what you get.