pchap

on a scale of 1 to 10, how difficult is to do this? i have replaced pads on many different imports but never rotors. do the new rotors have to be turned? thx.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Probably about a 5-7 depending on your setup where you work and what kind of tools you have. Why would you turn the new rotors?

goldendragon576

I actually read somewhere when I was having brake issues that Honda recommends turing the new rotors before they are installed. I don't know why but it was recommended. I'll see if I can dig up that article online again.

jperdoch

You are better off just buying new rotors. My experience is that if you get them turned down, they do not last that long.

Hardest thing is getting the stupid set screw out - I just drilled them out (after heating, soaking with PB Blaster and ruining 2 craftsman screw driver sockets) and did not replace them. Do a search, there are lots of comments on brakes.

Other than the set screws, they are no different than any other brakes to replace. If you have done brakes before, it will be easy.

n1njai

iTrader: (3)

^x2, if i were you, drill out those f****en screws. Broke two sets of that impact driver bit and just ended up drilling out the front ones. THe backs will be ok but the fronts will be a pain in the ass. It was my first time doing it, and it was easy.

derrick

Weird ... I live in an area that salts the road when there's a hint of snow. After 6 years, I changed the front and rear rotors + pads with my uncle. One hit with the impact driver and those screws came right off. Guess we were lucky? Total time to change and replace everything ... 60-90 minutes with breaks (not brakes).

When we put them back on, we were sure to use some anti-seize compound on the screw threads next time for next time when they need to be replaced ...

But to the OP ... if you have the tools (real tools like an impact driver) then it would probably be a 5/10 on difficulty. The rear parking brake thing took my uncle about 5 minutes of looking at it to figure it out. (I didn't have a clue and didn't have access to a service manual)

03aspec

if you've done it before, you can do it again.. its not too hard. only real problem is the stupid set screws that hold the rotor on, if their rusted to shits, your more then likely going to have to drill them out. but no worries, you don't need to put them on again.

TL-Super

Did mine , front and rear rotors and pads a couple weeks ago. The worst part was getting the god%$$#amn locknuts off after fubar'ing the key on the first one. Luckily my bro-in -law had the lock lugnut extractor tool.

Who ever invented that type of system should be beaten. My previous car we had to weld nuts on to all four to get then off after screwing that key up too.

smartypants

Hi TLers :

What set screws ? I had philips screws holding on the rotors which came off easy.

Doing breaks on TL's is fairly straight forward. Getting all the s/s raceways and the pads in at the same time is a little tricky if you only have two hands. One thing I harp on is filing and/or removed the rust from the top and bottom of the "traveler" to ensure that the pads move back and forth freely. Believe it or not, this layer of rust will actually bind the pads and cause uneven pad wear or a "false" seized caliper situation. The pads should slide in easily and not bind once installed. I actually put a fine layer of grease on the filed surfaces to try and keep down the rust build up.

As for machining rotors, I do not machine unless there is significant grooving. This might create a little vibration in the pedal, but this will disappear once the pads wear in.

Other than that, its fairly simple.

Smartypants.

totaledTL

Technically set screws hold something on a shaft- so I suppose they aren't really 'set' screws- right?

TL-Super

Doesn't Toronto send the Army down to help you guys after 1/2 inch of snow?