i did about three 0-60mph tests yesterday and right after the 1st one my car started shaking when i accelerate.. the shaking is pretty bad i can feel it through the floor. it feels like the front tires are wobbly but there perfectly fine i know i have a bad ball joint that needs to be replaced but could that be the problem or have i messed something else up now

i didnt hit any pot holes or curb my car. rims are stock and not bent or anything. and i just checked tire pressure and lug nuts are all tight.

 

does it shake only when you accelerate? if that's the case it might be axles?

 

Sounds like one of your tires may have a bubble. Look at the sidewall to see if there is one.

 

 

yup onli when i accelerate its pretty bad it feels like the cars gonna fall apart

no bubbles or flat spots

 

You probably need a new CV joint

 

how do i check this stuff do i jack up the car and see if it has any play in it?

 

Yep and look for a torn boot as well leaking oil.

 

shaking on acceleration is almost always cv joints... ive gone through 3 sets on my tl in about 3 years, usually because of torn boots.

 

Wow that's ridiculous. I'm at almost 170K and still on the original CVs.

 

Y
Shaking can also be the cause of a broken motor mount. If you have gone thru 3 axles already buy a different brand. The factory ones aren't really known for failing. If it went for a strange bearing failure I wild still be on both originals with 360k miles on them

 

I would have said motor mounts, but i know he's replaced most if not all recently during his dynoing the 09 IM fiasco.

 

lets see you have a know bad part on the front suspension, yet you want to ignore that, dumb real f'n dumb, fix it if the vibration is still there then look at the half shafts.

 

gotta agree there..car shaking after first run,,,by all means lets continue this test!!!

start with new ball joint,,which affects the wheels directly and may be all the problem!

I wont drive a car with known bad problem like that--let alone go do obscure testing of low speed accelleration
Your life can be in danger!!!!

 

i changed my front and rear motor mounts last month when i got the tranny rebuilt im hoping there not broken already lol.

 

ita not like i was gonna not fix the bad ball joint at all i was saving some money so i could get the adjustable ball joints. which with shipping to canada are close to 200 bucks. coudnt afford to spend that much at that time. but i will get that fixed i have the adjustable ball joints on order and well see if the vibration goes away then ill check the half shafts.

 

yes, totally ridiculous
ive also had two sets of motor mounts replaced.. and all of this was replaced under warranty by acura.

Im convinced that they put in badly remanufactured parts.. i worked at parts houses for years and never saw components fail as fast as the shit acura put on my car.

So now im running some O'reilly brand axles and they are holding up fine.

 

The issue regarding the mounts and how they effect the CV's is that most don't realize that with the bad mounts it interduces more shock to the CV's and half shafts and then it can also allow the boots to rub and knock off the steel bands that seal the boot to the CV and then leading to failure if not notice early enough. This is especially true if you change the half shafts out and within a week or two the boot is off again this is all because of the motor mounts allowing the CV to hit parts of the chassie.

 

what were the 0-60 results?
time wise not car shakiness wise

 

my best time was 0-60 of 6.1 seconds with no traction in whole first gear and my 60 foot was 2.8 i could have shaved off a few tenths if i had better tires

 

sssiiiiickckc

 

ftfy

 

^ lol
think i can get close to 5.5?
after i fix this situation i should try a 1mph roll to 60 and record it to see what i get

 

i think so.

this is my tuner's car

 

+1 - happened to me. Had grease leaking out with no tears in the boot. The clamp just wasn't doing its job anymore. Put a new clamp on 'cause I figured it couldn't have been leaking for that long. Put a new front mount in too, but fast forward to a couple weeks ago & either the mount is bad again or that CV actually was dying & it's time to replace.

Shaking on acceleration and not a smooth speed increase, vibration at highway speeds, etc....points to mounts or axles.

 

looks like a beast

 

dude: you can be assured if the boot clamp was loose and you saw ANY grease- its not only leaked out, but drawn grit in
there isnt much grease there to start with
One of the many reasons to buy a complete new unit- not rebuilt--from a quility parts store when you find any cv issue

 

When I replaced the clamp on the driver's side, the CV joints were good. Nice & quiet while twisting & turning the joint in my hand.

Today I ended up inspecting the passenger side and the inner CV joint was clanking its butt off. Replaced that axle & it fixed my problems (acceleration delay, shuddering, rough shifts, highway vibration). It was a PITA getting it in the intermediate shaft though, had to flatten the circlip a bit.

Put on a new unit - brand was GSP from Advance Auto...for 50 bucks ($69.99-$20 "EM25" promo code). Never heard any clicking indicating the old one was bad.

 

had my mechanic check it out and he told me the axle is ok because otherwise there would be grease everywhere if it was gone.
gonna change my lower ball joints to moog ones because one side is messed up. gonna see if that solves the problem hopefully.
i hope its not the tranny. the trannys not showing any signs of troubles though

 

you guy is incorrect
a busted cv boot would allow grease everywhere
You can have a good boot ,,,and still have worn out the actual bearing inside for many reasons--from lowered car to rough roads

 

i think im going to try taking it to an alignment and suspension shop. they probably know more.

is there a way i can check the axle?

 

outer cv joint goes click click click at very low,, crawling speed,, with wheel turned full lock to one side,,stop- turn wheel the other way and retest with wheel held at full lock

inner bearing usually shows as shake getting up to freeway speed

A mechanics stetchscope with the car on the lift, running in gear, should hear inner bearing issues

 

its quiet when i turn the wheels all the way and drive so i guess its not the cv joint

the shake does get alot worse after 50mph speeds

 

I was an auto tech for twenty years. 90% of the time when you have a vibration when accelerating it is an inner CV joint. The easiest (and cheapest) repair is to replace the entire shaft with a remanufactured unit. The trouble is determining which joint is bad. The inner boots rarely tear because they don't flex much, so looking for a torn boot is useless most of the time. It's also possible that you have a broken mount allowing the engine to pivot (torque beyond tolerances) and bind the inner joints. You can check for a broken mount by powerbraking the engine and watch for engine torque. Have someone stand next to the vehicle while you are holding the brake and giving it gas. If the engine slams forward or backward, you have a broken mount. Try it in drive and reverse. Sometimes you can see a gap open in the affected mount when the engine torques. Sometimes it's necessary to left the vehicle to inspect all of the motor and transmission mounts. The outer joints usually fail when the boot tears allowing dirt and gravel into the joint. To determine which outer joint is bad, turn the wheel fully to one direction and accelerate in a circle. If you have the wheel turned fully to the left and you hear a loud clicking it is almost without exception the right outer joint which is bad. If the wheel it turned to the right and you hear the clicking, the left joint is bad.

 

thanks for the write up bud i dont think it be my motor mount because i just got the front and rear changed when i fixed my tranny last month

 

good write up with exception to rebuilt units
the TL seems to prefer new units from name brand parts stores... 100 bucks or less

people report more problems on rebuilt axle parts than new ones~

 

turned out it was my axles i took it to the shop i got my transmission rebuilt from. i got both side of the axles replaced and car drives perfect again.. costed me 500 bucks though

 

^you got ripped off.

 

the parts here in canada are more expensive though each axle was like 120 bucks