0-60mph tests now car is shaking
10-14-2010, 08:19 PM
#1
0-60mph tests now car is shaking
i did about three 0-60mph tests yesterday and right after the 1st one my car started shaking when i accelerate.. the shaking is pretty bad i can feel it through the floor. it feels like the front tires are wobbly but there perfectly fine i know i have a bad ball joint that needs to be replaced but could that be the problem or have i messed something else up now
i didnt hit any pot holes or curb my car. rims are stock and not bent or anything. and i just checked tire pressure and lug nuts are all tight.
i didnt hit any pot holes or curb my car. rims are stock and not bent or anything. and i just checked tire pressure and lug nuts are all tight.
Last edited by kdawg8526; 10-14-2010 at 08:24 PM.
10-14-2010, 09:32 PM
#4
10-14-2010, 11:35 PM
#6
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You probably need a new CV joint
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10-15-2010, 12:22 AM
#8
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Yep and look for a torn boot as well leaking oil.
10-15-2010, 08:49 AM
#11
Senior Moderator
Shaking can also be the cause of a broken motor mount. If you have gone thru 3 axles already buy a different brand. The factory ones aren't really known for failing. If it went for a strange bearing failure I wild still be on both originals with 360k miles on them
10-15-2010, 10:11 AM
#14
gotta agree there..car shaking after first run,,,by all means lets continue this test!!!
start with new ball joint,,which affects the wheels directly and may be all the problem!
I wont drive a car with known bad problem like that--let alone go do obscure testing of low speed accelleration
Your life can be in danger!!!!
start with new ball joint,,which affects the wheels directly and may be all the problem!
I wont drive a car with known bad problem like that--let alone go do obscure testing of low speed accelleration
Your life can be in danger!!!!
10-15-2010, 11:23 AM
#16
ita not like i was gonna not fix the bad ball joint at all i was saving some money so i could get the adjustable ball joints. which with shipping to canada are close to 200 bucks. coudnt afford to spend that much at that time. but i will get that fixed i have the adjustable ball joints on order and well see if the vibration goes away then ill check the half shafts.
10-15-2010, 12:35 PM
#17
Im convinced that they put in badly remanufactured parts.. i worked at parts houses for years and never saw components fail as fast as the shit acura put on my car.
So now im running some O'reilly brand axles and they are holding up fine.
10-15-2010, 12:48 PM
#18
yes, totally ridiculous
ive also had two sets of motor mounts replaced.. and all of this was replaced under warranty by acura.
Im convinced that they put in badly remanufactured parts.. i worked at parts houses for years and never saw components fail as fast as the shit acura put on my car.
So now im running some O'reilly brand axles and they are holding up fine.
ive also had two sets of motor mounts replaced.. and all of this was replaced under warranty by acura.
Im convinced that they put in badly remanufactured parts.. i worked at parts houses for years and never saw components fail as fast as the shit acura put on my car.
So now im running some O'reilly brand axles and they are holding up fine.
10-15-2010, 05:32 PM
#25
The issue regarding the mounts and how they effect the CV's is that most don't realize that with the bad mounts it interduces more shock to the CV's and half shafts and then it can also allow the boots to rub and knock off the steel bands that seal the boot to the CV and then leading to failure if not notice early enough.
Shaking on acceleration and not a smooth speed increase, vibration at highway speeds, etc....points to mounts or axles.
10-17-2010, 06:10 PM
#27
dude: you can be assured if the boot clamp was loose and you saw ANY grease- its not only leaked out, but drawn grit in
there isnt much grease there to start with
One of the many reasons to buy a complete new unit- not rebuilt--from a quility parts store when you find any cv issue
there isnt much grease there to start with
One of the many reasons to buy a complete new unit- not rebuilt--from a quility parts store when you find any cv issue
10-18-2010, 12:20 AM
#28
dude: you can be assured if the boot clamp was loose and you saw ANY grease- its not only leaked out, but drawn grit in
there isnt much grease there to start with
One of the many reasons to buy a complete new unit- not rebuilt--from a quility parts store when you find any cv issue
there isnt much grease there to start with
One of the many reasons to buy a complete new unit- not rebuilt--from a quility parts store when you find any cv issue
Today I ended up inspecting the passenger side and the inner CV joint was clanking its butt off. Replaced that axle & it fixed my problems (acceleration delay, shuddering, rough shifts, highway vibration). It was a PITA getting it in the intermediate shaft though, had to flatten the circlip a bit.
Put on a new unit - brand was GSP from Advance Auto...for 50 bucks ($69.99-$20 "EM25" promo code). Never heard any clicking indicating the old one was bad.
10-23-2010, 01:24 AM
#29
had my mechanic check it out and he told me the axle is ok because otherwise there would be grease everywhere if it was gone.
gonna change my lower ball joints to moog ones because one side is messed up. gonna see if that solves the problem hopefully.
i hope its not the tranny. the trannys not showing any signs of troubles though
gonna change my lower ball joints to moog ones because one side is messed up. gonna see if that solves the problem hopefully.
i hope its not the tranny. the trannys not showing any signs of troubles though
10-23-2010, 10:42 AM
#30
you guy is incorrect
a busted cv boot would allow grease everywhere
You can have a good boot ,,,and still have worn out the actual bearing inside for many reasons--from lowered car to rough roads
a busted cv boot would allow grease everywhere
You can have a good boot ,,,and still have worn out the actual bearing inside for many reasons--from lowered car to rough roads
10-23-2010, 01:06 PM
#32
outer cv joint goes click click click at very low,, crawling speed,, with wheel turned full lock to one side,,stop- turn wheel the other way and retest with wheel held at full lock
inner bearing usually shows as shake getting up to freeway speed
A mechanics stetchscope with the car on the lift, running in gear, should hear inner bearing issues
inner bearing usually shows as shake getting up to freeway speed
A mechanics stetchscope with the car on the lift, running in gear, should hear inner bearing issues
10-23-2010, 01:45 PM
#34
9th Gear
I was an auto tech for twenty years. 90% of the time when you have a vibration when accelerating it is an inner CV joint. The easiest (and cheapest) repair is to replace the entire shaft with a remanufactured unit. The trouble is determining which joint is bad. The inner boots rarely tear because they don't flex much, so looking for a torn boot is useless most of the time. It's also possible that you have a broken mount allowing the engine to pivot (torque beyond tolerances) and bind the inner joints. You can check for a broken mount by powerbraking the engine and watch for engine torque. Have someone stand next to the vehicle while you are holding the brake and giving it gas. If the engine slams forward or backward, you have a broken mount. Try it in drive and reverse. Sometimes you can see a gap open in the affected mount when the engine torques. Sometimes it's necessary to left the vehicle to inspect all of the motor and transmission mounts. The outer joints usually fail when the boot tears allowing dirt and gravel into the joint. To determine which outer joint is bad, turn the wheel fully to one direction and accelerate in a circle. If you have the wheel turned fully to the left and you hear a loud clicking it is almost without exception the right outer joint which is bad. If the wheel it turned to the right and you hear the clicking, the left joint is bad.
10-23-2010, 06:49 PM
#36
good write up with exception to rebuilt units
the TL seems to prefer new units from name brand parts stores... 100 bucks or less
people report more problems on rebuilt axle parts than new ones~
the TL seems to prefer new units from name brand parts stores... 100 bucks or less
people report more problems on rebuilt axle parts than new ones~
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