I've been getting asked left and right about the Type-S IM on my car a lot lately.

I figured I'd make a thread about it for the guys that own a CL-P so if they want to do it, why not?

You ask why?

I guess I'm leading the way for CL-Ps... who knows?

I got the idea from the mega mod NSXNEXT. He said he was going to do it, but I don't think he has gotten around to it. When I found a Type-S IM on the BM, I jumped on it like white on rice. I spent less than 300 bones on an IM that came off of a Rick Case motor. It was a steal!

So when I got around to installing it, it took about 3 and half hours...mainly do to getting tired of bending over for long periods at a time and having a few beers.

But I'll tell you this, it is probably one of the better performance upgrades I've installed on the engine.

To have the IM work to it's full potential you have to buy a switch for the IMRC or it's worthless to have. Trust me. I had the idea of take the inner plates out, leaving them completely wide open and complete closed. I wasn't happy until I installed the switch.

I bought a digital switch from Ebay. I found a seller that was selling PN 8969 from MSD and was a hell of a lot cheaper than buying from the manufactuer.

I got help from a friend on v 6 p for hooking it up. So if you need help. Post here.

And I'll be glad to answer any questions that need be. Hopefully this will be easier for the guys that want to do this mod. Just please do yourself a favor and not buy brand new, they are very expensive. Do searching around for a good used one.

Tom

 

I am definently interested in this. I would like to see how the gains are if you were to slap some thermoblock spacers on it.

 

honestly, I don't think it gave me more horsepower, it just keeps the IM from getting hot from heat soak.

I know they are there, but I've yet to do a dyno since last year.

 

So all you really need is the upper Type S intake manifold and a switch for the IMRC? What is the IMRC by the way?

 

The IMRC stands for "Intake Manifold Runner Control." When VTEC is activated, the engine benefits from not only the more aggressive cam profile, but also by the increased intake runner volume from the opening of the IMRC butterfly "valves" between the intake runners.

 

I think you copied and pasted that statement.














j/k

But yes he is correct about that.

 

Actually the 2nd stage butterfly opens at 4k, far sooner than the VTEC kicks in.


And NSXNEXT has installed it (some time ago) he just hasnt had a chance ti install the rpm switch for the 2nd stage actuator.

 

lol, nope. It opens at 3800 rpms

Way way before VTEC kicks in...every lil bit helps.

Where is he...tell him to hurry up and get 'er done.

 

 

my VTEC kicks in @3800rpms.. am i special or is it a 4spd thing

 

thats a 4 speed only thing.

 

Yeah I installed mine back in July of 06.

I hope to have it completed next weekend. With 2 little kids at home and lot's of home projects, the car projects take a back seat.

My biggest issue is I have to remove my rear cylinder head cover to tap the holes where the actuator bracket screws into. This only appears to be an issue with the 99TL.

And here's the history on my install.

New project underway: 99TL w/TypeS intake manifold

TypeS intake manifold will not fit on a 99 TL... details inside

TypeS intake manifold project is over

TypeS Intake Manifold on 99 TL is BACK ON!!!!

99 TL with TypeS intake manifold is complete

 

Wish i would have thought of that when i did my swap. I sold my heads to blk2001tlon19s for his turbo project and just tossed the valve covers in the box with the heads

 

Yeah, and?

 

I know what he is doing.

 

Don't forget guys, you need the IMRC which looks like this


(borrowed pic from here https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ight=IMRC+pics)

And you need a window switch, I bought the MSD PN 8969.

 

Maybe I should have started this thread.

 

I have one of those on my TL-P

 

I figured if you give them pictures, well you get the idea.

Good stuff huh...


Wiring hookup is coming up next.

 

And a 6 speed and a type-s motor. I love when that little actuator pulls the cable, and i love it more when the vtec engages

 

I will too soon....

 

Yeah yeah, rub it in goof.

 

Ok i will

 

For the people that need help wiring this bad boy up...it's pretty easy, just follow the step by step and it'll work!

Alright here's a good write up for the MSD window switch (PN 8969)

The window switch needs to be set to "6-cylinder"

The Red wire is its On/Off power wire...connect that to any power wire you wish.

The Black wire is your ground. Connect it to the battery, or any place that sutes your needs.

The Gray wire is NOT used. Cut it off if you'd like.

Connection for the white wire to the RPM sensor


Connection to the IMRC to the window switch


What the butterfly should look like when closed


When you are all done, make sure you set the open switch to 3800, that's when the IMRC opens, you can set the closing RPM to anything you'd like because when the RPMs drop below 3800 the IMRC will close automatically.

If you have any QUESTIONS about the setup, please post here and not PM me. Thank you.



Tom

 

Nice writeup Tom.

So when does VTEC kick in on your CLP? Isn't it like 4100 rpms? My 99 is on ~3500rpms. I might have to adjust that on the VAFC.

 

good writeup

 

nice write up thanks for the wiring info.

 

According to Chod the Wackos page, the CLPs VTEC kicks in at 5500 RPM.

And thank you. Would you like to sticky this in the performance mod section?

Thank you, thank you.

The wiring was the most difficult, but I can't take all the credit though.

 

The 99 is no where near that high. Mine is like 3500 rpms.

 

I'm thinking of switching over to a VTEC controller...I honestly don't like how high it kicks in. Redline for the CL-P is at 6800 RPM I believe.

The CL-S VTEC kicks in at 4800 RPM.

 

How did you get the IMRC screwed on to your back cover. Did you have to remove the rear cover, there isnt alot of room back there to fit a drill.

 

There should be two holes already pre-drilled on the rear head. what year is your TL?

 

i have a 99tl and there are two holes pre drill but how did you actually drill the holes it is a very tight space back there. Did you have to remove your rear cover?

 

Yeah I just did mine yesterday. You'll have to remove the rear cylinder head and drill and tap for screws. To do that you'll have to remove the intake manifold. 5 bolts hold the cylinder head cover on.

I would get a new cylinder head gasket while your at it. I replaced mine. It's not that expensive. An oil leak is.


Oh and for those that didn't know, the posts are there, they're just not drilled or threaded.

 

Thanks Neil, will do.

 

That's why I asked what year his TL was.

How do you like the extra oomf?

I wanna see your "TL-S" IM

 

I haven't hooked up the actuator yet. Too many house projects going on.

I need to take some pics. Nothing special.

 

Those in the past who tried to change the vtec engagement point sooner lost power or saw no benefits. Just something to think about.

 

That sucks.

 

Not saying you wont. Maybe with the intake you may, especially if you get it dyno tuned?