D-006: 2009 Sway Bar update to 05-08, Parts & List Prices
04-14-2016, 01:01 AM
#122
it's a new part so why not just pay the price for it! but, that's just my opinion. i prefer new over used.
04-14-2016, 09:31 PM
#123
Racer
I was talking new .. I remember in my 08 accord the first mod I did was put a 22mm progress sway bar and it was the biggest improvement (drove aggressive thru a reservation both stock and progress sway and you could just feel the improvement )
04-14-2016, 11:57 PM
#124
well, i think i about paid that much for my sway bar when i got my rl. you can't go wrong for buying oem though. do it!
04-17-2016, 08:48 PM
#125
Racer
When I had my accord 6mt v6 the first mod I did was a rsb.. most noticeable improvement on my car at the time.. next ill be getting this done but shopping sites for a good price
07-05-2016, 07:48 PM
#126
Anyone get a new 09+ rear sway bar lately? I tried a few online OEM parts dealers and all said it was backordered with no ETA.
Last edited by komplexZ; 07-05-2016 at 07:53 PM.
07-16-2016, 06:45 PM
#127
1st Gear
Join Date: Jul 2016
Age: 57
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm brand new here, and have not even bought the car yet, but have been driving Audi's for years. My current ride is a 2001 S8.
On most OEM suspension set up's, they tune it to have oversteer when the car is pushed hard. it will slide in the front first, so you have to scrub off speed, and turn the wheel more into the turn. This is considered safe, but it's not a fun ride at the limits off tire traction.
Putting a stiffer rear bar on most OEM cars, especially ones with AWD or front wheel drive will help to reduce the push or oversteer effect and make the car handle more balanced to a point. You can't ignore how much weight is over the front or rear wheels, and basic physics say the most mass will want to keep going in the direction it's already going more than the lighter mass... So if the rear is lighter, it's going to turn better, and the front is going to push.
But the sway bars help to keep the car and suspension in better alignment so the tires maintain a better contact patch, and it does transfer more of this load to the rear tires with the larger bar back there.
Two things could be done on this car I see to improve this further.
1) Upgrade to urethane bushings over the stock rubber ones. Get ones you can grease up, and new hoops/brackets that fit with the stock rear subframe mounts.
2) Move the mounting hole one inch closer to the twisting part of the bar. (You increase the force needed to twist the bar that way, and it has the same effect as going up in diameter or thicker wall etc. Many race bars have two, three or even four holes so you can tune your sway bars for your style and vehicle.
Looking at the links, as long as the link does not bind or hit the lower control arm, you can move the mounting hole closer to the center of rotation on the bar.
The right way to do it is heat the bar tip, crush it in a press and drill a new hole.
But if you weld, you can really make it easy, and it might give you some more "stiffness" as this makes the bar less likely to bend at the arms that go to the link mount, and make it twist the bar more as a result.
Weld a short section of thick angle iron to the underside of the bar with 4 holes in it. Attach it just aft of the stock link bolt hole. Then you can move the link back to one of the holes, and see how you like the results.
I'm excited to have some fun with this car and the SH AWD system.
On most OEM suspension set up's, they tune it to have oversteer when the car is pushed hard. it will slide in the front first, so you have to scrub off speed, and turn the wheel more into the turn. This is considered safe, but it's not a fun ride at the limits off tire traction.
Putting a stiffer rear bar on most OEM cars, especially ones with AWD or front wheel drive will help to reduce the push or oversteer effect and make the car handle more balanced to a point. You can't ignore how much weight is over the front or rear wheels, and basic physics say the most mass will want to keep going in the direction it's already going more than the lighter mass... So if the rear is lighter, it's going to turn better, and the front is going to push.
But the sway bars help to keep the car and suspension in better alignment so the tires maintain a better contact patch, and it does transfer more of this load to the rear tires with the larger bar back there.
Two things could be done on this car I see to improve this further.
1) Upgrade to urethane bushings over the stock rubber ones. Get ones you can grease up, and new hoops/brackets that fit with the stock rear subframe mounts.
2) Move the mounting hole one inch closer to the twisting part of the bar. (You increase the force needed to twist the bar that way, and it has the same effect as going up in diameter or thicker wall etc. Many race bars have two, three or even four holes so you can tune your sway bars for your style and vehicle.
Looking at the links, as long as the link does not bind or hit the lower control arm, you can move the mounting hole closer to the center of rotation on the bar.
The right way to do it is heat the bar tip, crush it in a press and drill a new hole.
But if you weld, you can really make it easy, and it might give you some more "stiffness" as this makes the bar less likely to bend at the arms that go to the link mount, and make it twist the bar more as a result.
Weld a short section of thick angle iron to the underside of the bar with 4 holes in it. Attach it just aft of the stock link bolt hole. Then you can move the link back to one of the holes, and see how you like the results.
I'm excited to have some fun with this car and the SH AWD system.
12-11-2016, 08:45 PM
#129
09-15-2017, 02:42 PM
#130
Couple of thoughts from experience:
If you change the rear bar, change the end links as well. If you have the bar off, you can wiggle one end of the original end link at least. If not stiff to turn, it is probably worn.
For the front, since it is such a pain to R&R. I would change the end links to new on the front at the same time as doing the rear. Freshen it up a bit. I don't know if available or accessible or not, but if available, I would get poly main bushings in the original size mm. That will at least make the front bar fairly equal to the upgraded rear bar and links.
Doing this suspension with the addition of KYB shocks with stock or H&R springs would be interesting as well.
Mike Holbrook
Star, ID
2006 RL with less than 50k original miles.
If you change the rear bar, change the end links as well. If you have the bar off, you can wiggle one end of the original end link at least. If not stiff to turn, it is probably worn.
For the front, since it is such a pain to R&R. I would change the end links to new on the front at the same time as doing the rear. Freshen it up a bit. I don't know if available or accessible or not, but if available, I would get poly main bushings in the original size mm. That will at least make the front bar fairly equal to the upgraded rear bar and links.
Doing this suspension with the addition of KYB shocks with stock or H&R springs would be interesting as well.
Mike Holbrook
Star, ID
2006 RL with less than 50k original miles.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cycdaniel
1G TSX Performance Parts & Modifications
8
12-17-2019 10:58 AM
