std22

Hi, new member here. I previously owned an 04 TL so I'm not new to the community. I am unhappy with the audio system in the RL and would like to replace the speakers (maybe not the tweeters) and add some amps. Not for boom but just to clean things up as my wife's Dodge Infinity system sounds better. Does anybody know the size of the speakers in the RL. Seems to be rather scarce info on that. I did read about the ANC problem an will deal with that later.
Thanks again.

Ballinger

I think Crutchfield lists them in their online guide.

std22

Kinda sorta. They list a couple but not very specific with the info. I'll check again but I didn't see the center speaker or the tweeters listed.
Thanks

DXplicitOne

iTrader: (1)

I can chime in on this one as my interior is totally ripped apart right now for the amp rack and enclosure mounting as we speak.

Front center channel 2" mid
I replaced it with a 3.5" eclipse 2way coaxial need modification and a rewrap on the grill cloth

Front mids 6.5" and 1" tweeter
i replaced with 6.5" Mb Quart components trim rings needed to mount

Rear door speakrs 6.5" mid
i replaced with 6.5" MB Quart 2way coaxials no trim rings needed

Rear deck 3.5" mids
i replaced with 3.5" eclipse 2way coaxial matching the center channel

OEM Sub is an 8" flat design unit
i replaced by leaving it out to vent the deck lid and used 3 RE Audio 8" subs

Hope this helps.

std22

Thanks, that's just what I needed to know. I was hoping to replace the OEM sub like I did in my TL and not take up any space. That sounds like it may not work in this circumstance. Great to know the sizes and if trim rings are needed though. If possible let me know how all this worked for you as I would like to upgrade my RL also.

respect2nd

@ DXplicitOne

Any chance at pics? I'd like to know how the finished product looks. Been thinking of doing something similar in my RL.

Real Legend

The 3 RE subs sounds great, i have 2 JL W7 in a 3 chamber badpass. Nice to see RL's been work on in the music area.

DXplicitOne

iTrader: (1)

Ive never been one too take photos while i work to be honest. But my enclosure and amp rack are done and sitting in my living room as we speak. I havent put them in because i have been working on mounting bracketing and turning the trunk from all grey to all black carpet. As soon as i get back from Seattle next week ill dive into it and get the enclosure and the amp rack mounted and take a few photos. From there its all cosmetic with beauty boards to finish the look and the couple of LED strips for lighting. Ill be sure to post pics when i am done as there arent too many RL's here that have stereo work done.

std22

Thanks for your help and input DX, I wondering about the JL cleansweep also. I'll be talking to a installer today.

Chas2

Be interesting to see how ANC is affected, if at all.

DXplicitOne

iTrader: (1)

Back from Seattle... installing some tomorrow if i get the chance.

JL Cleansweep, Audio Control LC units, and MTX RE-Q units are all good options for the OEM integration. I will say i myself am using the MTX unit because i got a great price on the units (1/3 cost of the JL, 1/2 cost of AC) and it pairs with my MTX amps. People seem to love JL stuff but me myself think that i can get a compriable unit for alot less money (same with the subs).

As for the ANC i unplugged my mic about 3 months ago when i first got the car to see if there was any real difference with the interior cabin noise with driving and honestly i didnt notice a thing. Maybe its just my hearing but i feel no difference. This was one of my decision makers before doing anything to the OEM stereo system as i didnt want to ruin an already great interior to ride in.

If i had the choice for OEM integration and they were all the same cost i think i would have gone with the Audio Control units as they also have a line driver which my RE-Q does not. Not to mention AC's reputation in the industry for a quality product has never been questioned as their processing units have always been on point.

When you do talk to an installer make sure that you tell him to grab signal POST AMP and not PRE. Not too many installers are familiar with the RL's wiring and its better to inform him of these items in case hes not too keen on testing BEFORE cutting. The signal PRE amp is just way to weak.

DXplicitOne

iTrader: (1)

Alright so i did my wiring today and got to power everything up and see how it performed for the first time. Not too shabby for the small subs that im using. Here are a few pics as promised of the trunk setup before all the finish work gets installed which is a upper and lower beauty board to hide all wiring and just expose the plexi windows for both the subs and the amps. Im not too sure if i want to put the same LED lighting in the amp rack as i did for the subs just yet but we will see. In the pics the lighting for the subs looks uneven but i assure you its even throughout as the LED strip goes across the length of the plexi. All in all i retained about 75-80% of the trunk since the enclosure is very shallow and the false floor was only raised about 4 inches. I think the hardest part of the whole thing was changing the trunk color from that gray ish to black.

Situating the wiring


Wired up and outside lights off

MaxAlexand

DX,

I'd be interested to hear how you like the Re-Q. I used a Soundgate LOC for my sub.

I'm thinking about changing to the Re-Q, or AudioControl Epicenter (or both).

Mike

DXplicitOne

iTrader: (1)

If your only running a sub i personally wouldnt waste the money on the RE-Q. The RE-Q is a full system integration and really wouldnt make sense to have a 1/3 of the unit being used. If you choose to go full system into the future adding amps to the interior of the car then its not a bad choice for the money (less than $100 ebay). My negatives are minimal toward the unit i HATE that external dash knob as my unit failed when it was plugged in and i ripped apart the whole thing to find out it was just that. The massive plug that plugs into the side is a poor design as to start it is F ing huge and its really no that rigid. Aside from those two items i cant really ask for anything more out of it.

If i were in your shoes, since it is just a sub that you are running just stick with the LOC as its just signal that you are looking for and if you must get an epicenter. Im not sure how loud you want your subs to slap but back in my younger days the epicenter was a nice additional to any solid sub amp for some nice performance.

MaxAlexand

The only reason I considered the Re-Q (3 Channel Version) is because it claims to be able to overcome factory built-in bass rolloff as volume increases. RL seems to exhibit this, but I don't have the proper equipment to verify it.

BTW - It seems funny to me to see someone who is 31 talk about "back in my younger days". I'm getting old.

DXplicitOne

iTrader: (1)

I see your point now about the rolloff which is true in the RL. I have not experienced any problems at all regarding this with the RE-Q unit, so far so good. I will say that i am already contemplating removing the RE-Q though, not because it doesnt perform but more because i need some processing in between my signal to amp situation. Rather than buying an Audio Control unit to add onto what i currently have i have been looking at the Apline Imprint unit that will both solve the problem of both processing and the RE-Q. So if you are interested in it id be willing to let it go most likely as i read into the Imprint unit more.

When i turned 30 i felt like i got old sorry.

Chulodee

DXplicitOne which MB Quart did you use? How's the sound? I'm using some diamond audio and it's incredible!

DXplicitOne

iTrader: (1)

RSI-216 components in the front (mid level set)

FKS-116 in the rear (mid level)

As i stated in a previous post im not totally happy with the sound as i need to EQ the hell out of this system as this is what is lacking. Honestly it sounds 10 times better than OEM but thats not saying too much honestly. After some adjustments im sure ill eventually find happiness.