Rewire Fog lights
Rewire Fog lights
Hey you guys,
Does anyone has any diagrams or something on how to rewire fog lights switch so I can turn on fogs with side markers only without turning low beams?
Does anyone has any diagrams or something on how to rewire fog lights switch so I can turn on fogs with side markers only without turning low beams?
I'm planning to do this project soon.
From the wiring diagram in the service manual, it looks like you just need to hijack the white wire coming from the switch on the turn signal stalk, and run it directly to the fog lights (just bypass the logic circuit/black box). I'm hoping a short section of wire maybe 1', no more than 3', tapped in in the steering column to an undiscovered point under the dash. I'll likely place a diode inline to prevent sending juice backwards into the logic circuit (would not likely matter anyway).
The way the wiring diagram looks, you could then have fogs with Low/High/Park lights, and they'd still shut off with the car, or the switch.
From the wiring diagram in the service manual, it looks like you just need to hijack the white wire coming from the switch on the turn signal stalk, and run it directly to the fog lights (just bypass the logic circuit/black box). I'm hoping a short section of wire maybe 1', no more than 3', tapped in in the steering column to an undiscovered point under the dash. I'll likely place a diode inline to prevent sending juice backwards into the logic circuit (would not likely matter anyway).
The way the wiring diagram looks, you could then have fogs with Low/High/Park lights, and they'd still shut off with the car, or the switch.
Thanx Max!
Can you post a pic of that diagram??
I'm planning to do this project soon.
From the wiring diagram in the service manual, it looks like you just need to hijack the white wire coming from the switch on the turn signal stalk, and run it directly to the fog lights (just bypass the logic circuit/black box). I'm hoping a short section of wire maybe 1', no more than 3', tapped in in the steering column to an undiscovered point under the dash. I'll likely place a diode inline to prevent sending juice backwards into the logic circuit (would not likely matter anyway).
The way the wiring diagram looks, you could then have fogs with Low/High/Park lights, and they'd still shut off with the car, or the switch.
From the wiring diagram in the service manual, it looks like you just need to hijack the white wire coming from the switch on the turn signal stalk, and run it directly to the fog lights (just bypass the logic circuit/black box). I'm hoping a short section of wire maybe 1', no more than 3', tapped in in the steering column to an undiscovered point under the dash. I'll likely place a diode inline to prevent sending juice backwards into the logic circuit (would not likely matter anyway).
The way the wiring diagram looks, you could then have fogs with Low/High/Park lights, and they'd still shut off with the car, or the switch.
This is it. The only problem I see is figuring out where the "Combination Switch Control unit" is.
Hopefully it is not all contained in the stalk. That would require some micro-surgery.
Hopefully it is not all contained in the stalk. That would require some micro-surgery.
Last edited by MaxAlexand; Mar 19, 2010 at 09:28 PM. Reason: Fixed Picture Link
Thanks for the diagram, hopefully I could read it and compare it to real wires
I'm planning to do it when it will be warmer outside - after two days of 65 degrees we have freaking snow on the ground again
I'm planning to do it when it will be warmer outside - after two days of 65 degrees we have freaking snow on the ground again
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Same for me
no updates yet - don't have time on weekends. But I actually decided to make two separate switches: one for fogs, and one for front led's, kind of like Slawek's
I'd like to hit all of it in one time... Did I mentioned that I tried to change HID and it took me almost two hours to get the bulb in on drivers side; and about 5 minutes on other side 
@Max - sorry to hear that you got rear-ended
no updates yet - don't have time on weekends. But I actually decided to make two separate switches: one for fogs, and one for front led's, kind of like Slawek's
I'd like to hit all of it in one time... Did I mentioned that I tried to change HID and it took me almost two hours to get the bulb in on drivers side; and about 5 minutes on other side 
@Max - sorry to hear that you got rear-ended
Update - I've got the steering column taken apart, and I've located the wires in question.
I piggybacked a wire onto the signal output wire from the fog light switch, then I cut the output wire coming from the combination switch control unit (located inside the wiper switch), and ran my piggybacked wire to the output.
My though was, I'm simply preventing the combination switch control unit from being able to decide when the fogs should be allowed to come on.
Except. . .
When I reassembled the connectors, I had NO exterior lights. So, I left it sit, and got a good nights sleep. I'm going to try again this morning. I'll likely put it back stock and make sure I haven't damaged anything, then do some wire testing to determine the circuit, instead of trusting the wiring diagram.
Wish me luck.
I piggybacked a wire onto the signal output wire from the fog light switch, then I cut the output wire coming from the combination switch control unit (located inside the wiper switch), and ran my piggybacked wire to the output.
My though was, I'm simply preventing the combination switch control unit from being able to decide when the fogs should be allowed to come on.
Except. . .
When I reassembled the connectors, I had NO exterior lights. So, I left it sit, and got a good nights sleep. I'm going to try again this morning. I'll likely put it back stock and make sure I haven't damaged anything, then do some wire testing to determine the circuit, instead of trusting the wiring diagram.
Wish me luck.
No luck.
I've put everything back that I modified, and still doesn't work. I've apparently angered a computer somewhere.
The headlights work in automatic mode - Always - even with the switch in the "Off" position. With the car and all switches and accessories off, the headlight switch has no effect whatsoever. Hazard flashers work normally.
With the car running, and headlights on, moving the switch has no effect, except if you place the switch in the "On" position, then:
-Attempting to activate high beams causes the highbeams to flash rapidly.
-Attempting to activate fog lights causes the fog lights to flash rapidly.
-Turn signals flash rapidly when activated.
Looks like I get to tuck my tail and head to the dealership. :-(
I've put everything back that I modified, and still doesn't work. I've apparently angered a computer somewhere.
The headlights work in automatic mode - Always - even with the switch in the "Off" position. With the car and all switches and accessories off, the headlight switch has no effect whatsoever. Hazard flashers work normally.
With the car running, and headlights on, moving the switch has no effect, except if you place the switch in the "On" position, then:
-Attempting to activate high beams causes the highbeams to flash rapidly.
-Attempting to activate fog lights causes the fog lights to flash rapidly.
-Turn signals flash rapidly when activated.
Looks like I get to tuck my tail and head to the dealership. :-(
Car is now fine, my ego is hurting.
Maybe I can now serve as an example of how NOT to troubleshoot.
I assumed the problem was NOT in the stalk mounted light switch because although things were acting incorrectly, the switch did activate the correct items.
My error was, the switch had a defective solder trace on the ground wire. Which meant that, under the right circumstances, it could trigger the correct items, but due to lack of a ground wire, they wouldn't work correctly.
Had I simply followed the continuity test for the main light switch, I would have known immediately what the problem was.
Stay tuned. I've corrected an error in the manual, and try again. . . Once i've healed.
Thanks for listening.
Maybe I can now serve as an example of how NOT to troubleshoot.
I assumed the problem was NOT in the stalk mounted light switch because although things were acting incorrectly, the switch did activate the correct items.
My error was, the switch had a defective solder trace on the ground wire. Which meant that, under the right circumstances, it could trigger the correct items, but due to lack of a ground wire, they wouldn't work correctly.
Had I simply followed the continuity test for the main light switch, I would have known immediately what the problem was.
Stay tuned. I've corrected an error in the manual, and try again. . . Once i've healed.
Thanks for listening.
At least you're attempting this. I give you props!
I was just going to be lazy and rewire to different switch to battery with fuse.
however, i'm going to see what you come up with and hopefully adapt it.
Again, thanks for attempting this as it will help many members.
I was just going to be lazy and rewire to different switch to battery with fuse.
however, i'm going to see what you come up with and hopefully adapt it.
Again, thanks for attempting this as it will help many members.
I was able to repair the circuit board inside the stalk by laying a single strand of copper wire on top of the circuit and soldering it in.
I likely could have removed my jumper wire and taken it to the dealer for a free repair, but I figure I gambled on this mod, no fair tricking someone else into paying for it.
I likely could have removed my jumper wire and taken it to the dealer for a free repair, but I figure I gambled on this mod, no fair tricking someone else into paying for it.
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