dkricks

Just purchased my first ever Acura (after having owned 6 Hondas in my lifetime). Purchased a 2009 RL w/Navigation yesterday.

With the car came the two key fobs. The Driver 2 one seems to work fine.

The Driver 1 one will lock and unlock doors and open the trunk with the three buttons on the device. However, it will not start the car or anything else.

What do I need to do to get this to work? Is it a matter of just replacing the two CR2025 batteries in the device? Or do I have to take it to the Acura dealer to get it "reprogrammed for the car"?

Would appreciate any help/advice you can give. Looking forward to many years of satisfaction from this RL.

Dan

dkricks

Also forgot to mention, the little red light blinks very fast on this remote.

dkricks

One last piece of information (sorry for adding to this but am hoping the extra information helps resolve the problem).

The one key fob that does work (Driver 2). The car does not know who it is. Meaning sometimes the car thinks it is Driver 2 and sometimes the car recognizes it as Driver 1. In either case the car starts and operates fine with this key fob. I just think it is weird that the car does not consistently recognize it as one or the other.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

follow the synch steps on the back of the FOB

dkricks

Thanks for the reply. I tried this but it did not work. Again, this key fob locks and unlocks the car (and opens the trunk). However, the car will not start (or even allow me to turn the car to the accessory, or start positions).

Could I be doing something wrong?

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Is it next to any other electronics?
maybe a low FOB battery.

Is neither FOB registering "Driver 1 or 2"?

dkricks

It is not next to any other electronics.

I just replaced both of the CR2025 batteries with brand new ones.

The other FOB works with the car. However, that is weird also in that sometimes the car recognizes it as "Driver 1" and sometimes it recognizes it as "Driver 2".

Sounds like I might have a trip to the dealer ahead of me (although I would like to prevent this if I could find the actual programming instructions for these 2009 RL FOBS.

dkricks

One other tidbit of information.

The memory seat settings do not work at all on this car. Pushing the "Memory" button does not cause the two other buttons to start blinking. Pushing either the "1" or "2" button do not do anything.

This whole electronic thing is weird in that it is all tied together (the two key fobs plus the "memory" settings). Am glad the one FOB actually starts the car but would really like for all three of these features (each FOB plus the "memory" feature) to work as planned.

Haven't even had the chance to play with the other electronics like the NAV system, voice command of stereo and phone, etc. because I have spent so much time just trying to get this second FOB to work.

BTW, I really appreciate your willingness to help.

getakey

If you do not lock the car, the next time you get in the car, it will still say welcome driver # from the last time unlocked.
For example, unlock car with FOB1, Welcome D1 when car started. Complete trip, do not lock car. Next trip, get in car with FOB2, car will say Welcome D1 and retain D1 settings unless you press D2 button on door.
Not sure about the problem with FOB1 not starting car. That does seem odd. Does it have the key in the fob? That's where the immobilizer chip is

getakey

The Memory works as follows. Adjust seat, steering, mirros. Push Memorym then D1 or D2 to save these settings to the button you press. (I don't recall them blinking, but perhaps they do if you are reading that in the manual)
Next time you unlock car with that fob, settings will adjust to the saved settings.
As I stated above, if you get in car without unlocking, previous driver settings will be retained and then you may have to push the D1 or D2 to change to alternate settings. Note, you only press "Memory" when you want to save new settings.

dkricks

Getakey and Heavy_RL

I really appreciate both of your advice.

But, alas, just tried the info getakey suggested and the memory function still does not work. I am 100% confident that the info both of you are giving me is correct. However, just think there is an issue with the FOBs delivered to me with this vehicle.

If you think of other ideas let me know.

getakey

If fob2 is the more working fob, what is the memory behavior?

Are you doing the tests with only one fob in your pocket? If you have both fobs with you, the car could detect either and you might be getting those strange back and forth D1/D2 settings.

Also, did you confirm key was in fob1

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

I wonder, with a devils advocate hat on, if someone synched the FOBs but they were never linked to the immobilizer at the dealer. Hence it not starting.

dkricks

Fob2 is the working Fob. It is the only one I am testing with. Yes, it is the only one anywhere near the car (Fob1 is in the house 20 feet away).

With Fob1 I get no memory behavior. Even after ensuring (as you had mentioned before) to lock the car after leaving and before unlocking/re-entering.

Cannot even try Fob2 as the memory settings only work when the ignition is in position II.

getakey

Good thinking.
I beleive he stated fob2 will start car, so maybe fob1 is a replacement and they forgot to do as you suggest.

Waiting for OP to confirm he is only using 1 fob at a time for tests. Otherwise the odd memory behaviour vould be explained by having 2 fobs present

Edit: oops his reply beat mine
So, odd behavior is not caused by 2 fobs.

dkricks

That is my guess too (never linked with the immobilizer). Unfortunately I see a very costly trip to the dealer coming up. Might be worth it though to have both FOBs programmed with the car and working as originally planned (that is all I am asking). Hopefully they will have a little mercy on me (yea, right) since I just purchased this car used yesterday and assumed it was delivered to me in working order.

getakey

I think that is a reasonable assumption and they should make it right.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

with this being a recent purchase, IMO they are absolutely responsible to make this right on their dime.
Do not waiver from that mind set.

Megatron

The dealer should definitely be on the hook to fix your problem... but just to add some technical info... It is NOT possible on the RL to have the fobs programmed for the lock/unlock/trunk buttons without being programmed to the immobilizer at the same time. It is not like other Hondas and Acuras with separate fobs and keys. You cannot program the fob yourself even just for the fob button functions. It requires the Honda HDS systems to program and when it's done, the fob is programmed to the immobilizer also.

The physical key on the other hand requires a separate HDS programming step in addition to the above.

That's why this problem is weird... normally on the RL, if the buttons will work to unlock the car, the fob should allow starting of the car as well. So i'm puzzled by this one.

Did you thoroughly check out the history of the car? By chance could it have had electrical issues before? Like flooding? Hope not, but this sounds like electrical gremlins to me... especially about the part where you say your Driver 2 Fob sometimes registers as Driver 1 and other times as Driver 2. That shouldn't be possible if you're only using one fob!

getakey

Good info!

oo7spy

Hopefulness is not a strong enough attitude. Remember, nice guys finish last. You need to demand, very politely, that they fix your situation. It is very likely that you signed an affidavit saying that you would be given two working keys. It is their responsibility to provide you with functioning keys, not yours to pay for an evaluation. Hold that mindset, and do not underestimate the power of bitching politely.

One thing to keep in mind is that your RL is still under an original bumper to bumper warranty (assuming the mileage is below 60k).

Megatron

Let me take a guess... was this not bought at an Acura dealer? Seems like the dealer would have found these kinds of problems when they go over a used car for sale.

If it was indeed NOT an Acura dealer, you may have a heck of a time trying to get a resolution from them because they won't have the knowledge or equipment to fix it. If that's the case, make them pay for the bill that an Acura dealer gives you to solve it.

Toppatop

this is insane, I was just redirected to this thread and by Heave RL and I have the same exact problem as dkricks. I wont go into the same details but I just came from the dealer in Avon Connecticut and they couldnt figure out why the fob#1 was not starting the ignition. It will unlock the car by using the buttons but it wont work with the touch sensor either.. strange

Toppatop

I wonder if it is possible to rn a diagnostic on the fob to see if it it mechanically and structually sound in and out.

getakey

have either of you tried to start the car using the key from fob1?

oo7spy

I think the strangest thing is the blinking of the fob LEDs. Something is going on, and the fob is trying to tell us. Maybe I will dig through the service manual tomorrow...

Just for shits and giggles, press the unlock button twice and hold on the suspect fob. Do the windows roll down?

Toppatop

Yes I have used the key from the fob to start the car and it does say welcome driver 1 when the key is used. let me add... the confusion about the fob #2 say welcome driver one only happens when you introduce another fob or key without first unlocking the doors with that same key/fob

getakey

That is strange. Let me see if I have this straight:
fob1 unlocks/locks car with buttons on fob
fob1 does not let you lock/unlock using touch sensor on handle
fob1 does not start car in keyless mode
fob1 key starts car

confusion on D1/D2 with fob2 is explained in your case

Toppatop

getakey that is correct. I just made an appointment with another Acural dealer for tomorow to get a second oppinion. 00spy yes the windows all roll down when i depress and hold the unlock botton on the fob #1

Toppatop

DKRICKS if you recline your driver seat all the way back and then bring it to the position of your comfort you will be able to lock it the memory one or two. A little trick that worked for me since i had that memory issue beore also.

getakey

1 more thing: fob2 works in all respects?

Toppatop

Yes fob 2 is perfectly fine in all aspects.

getakey

so it has to be a problem within fob1. It will transmit to car using buttons, but car is not recognizing the fob with its sensors

I suspect they will have to replace the fob

Toppatop

That doesn't sound good. Sounds expensive. I wonder if its posible to repair a damaged fob ?

getakey

Solution = give wife fob1

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Toppatop

I could give fob 1 to the wife but still won't resolve the issue. I would like to know that it's not my vehicle that's the problem. I can always buy a new fob.

Megatron

Wow... strange that two people are having the exact same problem!

As I said before, I have quite a bit of experience with programming the fobs on the RL using the Honda HDS system and I can assure you that it is only a single process to program the fob, which makes the buttons work AND the touch sensor and keyless start work. So it's not possible to program one half and not the other. The only thing I can think of is to have the dealer try programming it again. Maybe they were holding the fob when it was being programmed and somehow the car didn't pick up the signal when it was in the middle of the process so one half got programmed??? I'm just guessing here but I guess it's possible. They are supposed to place the fob somewhere in the vehicle untouched during programming... so who knows.

As for the light on the fob... it is NORMAL for the light to blink when using the touch handle to lock or unlock AND when using the knob to start the car. What happens is that the car is actually requesting authentication from the fob when you do one of these things and the fob sends a signal back to the car. The blinking red light indicates the fob is sending a signal. That's all. When you first turn the knob, the car requests a signal from the fob and the fob is sending it so it is blinking... if it doesn't turn, then car is not getting the right code and it is continually requesting and the fob is continually sending to no avail. Thus the constant blinking.

Hope this makes sense... Like I said the only thing I can think of is to have them try programming it again.

getakey

Mega - you probably nailed it

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)