Your Opinion, Please!
Your Opinion, Please!
Some of you may recall that I've had an annoying vibration/car shake starting at around 70MPH and gets worse as the speed increases. I've done the following and it's only made a minor difference:
1. Replaced front and side motor mounts
2. New Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus tires
3. New brakes (although not OEM)
4. Four wheel alignment
5. Balanced the wheels twice in one week
Any idea what I should look for next? I am at my wits end with this issue and my extended warranty ends in January, so I'd like to get this issue resolved before finding out it's going to cost me an arm and a leg.
Thanks for you input!!
1. Replaced front and side motor mounts
2. New Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus tires
3. New brakes (although not OEM)
4. Four wheel alignment
5. Balanced the wheels twice in one week
Any idea what I should look for next? I am at my wits end with this issue and my extended warranty ends in January, so I'd like to get this issue resolved before finding out it's going to cost me an arm and a leg.
Thanks for you input!!
Who is doing your wheel balancing?
Check to see if they are doing high speed wheel balancing. Most shops use low speed wheel balancing technique/machines and thats one of the reason why at high speed you feel the vibration. I had this happen to my old 2G RL till someone suggested getting high speed balancing done, which solved the issue.
Also, get your suspension bushings such as control arms, tie rods etc checked for cracks etc.
BTW is your car for sale as I see an ad on local CL with your avatar picture in it.
Check to see if they are doing high speed wheel balancing. Most shops use low speed wheel balancing technique/machines and thats one of the reason why at high speed you feel the vibration. I had this happen to my old 2G RL till someone suggested getting high speed balancing done, which solved the issue.
Also, get your suspension bushings such as control arms, tie rods etc checked for cracks etc.
BTW is your car for sale as I see an ad on local CL with your avatar picture in it.
Who is doing your wheel balancing?
Check to see if they are doing high speed wheel balancing. Most shops use low speed wheel balancing technique/machines and thats one of the reason why at high speed you feel the vibration. I had this happen to my old 2G RL till someone suggested getting high speed balancing done, which solved the issue.
Also, get your suspension bushings such as control arms, tie rods etc checked for cracks etc.
BTW is your car for sale as I see an ad on local CL with your avatar picture in it.
Check to see if they are doing high speed wheel balancing. Most shops use low speed wheel balancing technique/machines and thats one of the reason why at high speed you feel the vibration. I had this happen to my old 2G RL till someone suggested getting high speed balancing done, which solved the issue.
Also, get your suspension bushings such as control arms, tie rods etc checked for cracks etc.
BTW is your car for sale as I see an ad on local CL with your avatar picture in it.
Yes, that's my car. My wife are I are expecting and was/is contemplating on getting a larger vehicle.
Try getting them properly torqued.
Getting them tightened by an impact gun at NTB or dealer doesnt guarantee properly torqued wheels, in fact they get over torqued this way.
I believe proper torque for each lug bolt is 80~85 lbs/ft.
Getting them tightened by an impact gun at NTB or dealer doesnt guarantee properly torqued wheels, in fact they get over torqued this way.
I believe proper torque for each lug bolt is 80~85 lbs/ft.
Road force balancing? I know there have been other members that have had their tires balanced multiple times and it wasn't until someone did it just right that the vibrations were fixed.
During the vibration does your steering wheel shimmy left and right or is the wheel perfectly straight but you feel car vibrating up and down?
Shimmy left and right on steering wheel is wheel balance but if you feel the car shaking up and down like you going over little bumps is either bent rim or axle is bad
Shimmy left and right on steering wheel is wheel balance but if you feel the car shaking up and down like you going over little bumps is either bent rim or axle is bad
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So, almost $1,000 later...
Rear passenger rotor was causing 50% of the vibration since it's warped at the "hat". Replaced both rear rotors, vibration reduced to 50%.
The mechanic removed the propeller shaft and it made a little difference, but not enough for me to look further.
Since I have felt some vibration in the steering wheel, I also had the front rotors and pads replaced, just for good measure.
I just got the car back so have not had a chance to drive it, but I'll check it out on my way home and during my commute tomorrow morning. I doubt the car is going to be smooth, but I sure hope it improves.
Rear passenger rotor was causing 50% of the vibration since it's warped at the "hat". Replaced both rear rotors, vibration reduced to 50%.
The mechanic removed the propeller shaft and it made a little difference, but not enough for me to look further.
Since I have felt some vibration in the steering wheel, I also had the front rotors and pads replaced, just for good measure.
I just got the car back so have not had a chance to drive it, but I'll check it out on my way home and during my commute tomorrow morning. I doubt the car is going to be smooth, but I sure hope it improves.

I was a bit leery at first, but took a chance on a full set of front and rear brakes (cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic brake pads) from Brakemotive after seeing some reviews. The price was very good at under $200 for the full set including shipping! In any case, I had them installed on Saturday and they are by far THE BEST set of brakes I have ever purchased!!
Well, at the time, they were great. I am not sure if the warping was due to manufacturer's defect or something I did, but they did perform well under hard braking or just everyday braking. The new brakes are blank rotors and they feel a bit mushy compared to the cross drilled and slotted ones, but they'll do.
Well, at the time, they were great. I am not sure if the warping was due to manufacturer's defect or something I did, but they did perform well under hard braking or just everyday braking. The new brakes are blank rotors and they feel a bit mushy compared to the cross drilled and slotted ones, but they'll do.
I honestly mean this as sincerely as possible, but have you tried just enjoying your car? Cars make noise, and spinning parts vibrate. There is always something that "could" be wrong, and if you are actively scrutinizing everything about the car, you are going to find something. Put some subs in the trunk, turn up the volume and enjoy driving a machine for what it is. Your car will never be a cloud unless you buy a Model S.
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