titomang

Update:

I had some time over the weekend to continue this project and was able to route my wiring harness to the driver’s PFM turn actuator. There are two wires (light green and white) that are connected to the motor via 2 pin connector. I routed these two wires to the PFM switch for testing purposes but couldn’t get the motor to rotate left/right. I used the ground wire that’s on the switch harness and inserted the positive pigtail wire that was missing and there was no power to the motor when I press the switch.

From my research, the empty slot on the switch which is the positive wire for the PFM function acts as a 12v source once everything is plugged in. I confirmed that there’s no power to it using a test light. The PFM turn actuator does work as I’ve tested it using the battery. I know the switch works as my tilt/reverse/adjustment function works but I can’t get the PFM motor to turn once I press the PFM button on the switch.

I tried to get a 12v power source upon ignition on by using the radio wire but that didn’t work as well as the motor will turn whether the engine is on/off. The switch had no control over it. (Basically I inserted a pigtail pin to the missing slot, forked the wire, had one end to the PFM mirror and the other end to the radio power wire, this was done for the negative as well but I used the ground source on the switch harness).

My question is what 12v source can I use to get the PFM to fold in/out once I press the PFM button since the 12v source that I attempted to use had no power from it?

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

if you have a meter, just look for power and then turn the key off.
If you lose power, then you are good. If not, try again.

why cant you use the power wire for the mirror adjusting switch.

titomang

Thanks Heavy.
Yes, I do have a multi-meter that I bought for this project but I’m not too familiar on how to use all it’s function. I guess to find the power source I’ll use the DC voltage function? I’ll use a ground wire for the COM plug and turn ignition on but where should I go about testing to find the wire I need?

I wanted to use the slot that was missing from my harness (pin#9) because that is what the diagram shows. I’m afraid if I use the power source from the adjusting function wires then every time I move the mirror it’ll fold in/out.

I’m still on the notion that a relay isn’t needed because all new Honda/Acura 03+ came w/ the switch w/ the built in relay.

oo7spy

The voltmeter on your multi-meter will not gain you any functionality over your test light, so you can keep using that if it is easier. Your understanding of how to use it is right, with the DC Voltage setting on, hold the com probe to ground (chassis), and use the other probe to test different fuses until you find one that fits your application.

I am a bit confused on you explanation of what you need. My interpretation is that the mirror actuator has two inputs (12V and ground), and it turns whenever 12V is applied. Is that correct? The switch takes 12V and ground, and when pressed, applies the power to the actuator. Is that correct?

If that is the case, then you need a 12V supply to the switch. It shouldn't matter if the ignition is on or not if the switch is what controls the mirror. Find any fuse that is 12V, and run the wire from that fuse to the switch.

titomang

Yes, you are correct that the PFM actuator has the 12v & ground wire and turns whenever the 12v is applied. I tried it using the battery as well as the radio power wire. You are correct about the switch as well.

“If that is the case, then you need a 12V supply to the switch. It shouldn't matter if the ignition is on or not if the switch is what controls the mirror. Find any fuse that is 12V, and run the wire from that fuse to the switch.”

My question is would any 12v source work supplied from the fuses (whether hot or not)? I actually only want the switch to have power upon ignition and once the PFM button is pressed it’ll fold in/out the mirrors. I’m assuming directly linking the power wire from the switch to the radio fuse itself (if it has 12v) instead of tapping it into the radio power wires will yield different outcomes?

oo7spy

Any 12V source will work. If you only want it to be used when the ignition is on, then you need to find a fuse that is not hot when the ignition is off as Heavy explained. (I don't understand why you would limit the feature to only when the ignition is on, but it's your project, not mine. )

I don't know what radio power wire you are referring to. If you are talking about the wire that goes from the fuse to the radio, then you will always get the same result. If you are using a different wire, it may be different. The most straightforward way to know what you are getting is to tap in at the fuse. There are two easy ways. 1) Take the fuse out, find which side doesn't have power (this makes sure that you keep the fuse between the switch and the battery), and jam the wire in with the fuse on that side. 2) Buy a fuse jumper. http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...FTMV7AodfREAvg

titomang

Well I’ll see which feature I like better once I get it to work (At this point I just want it to work…lol)

I’m referring to the power wire on the radio harness. I didn’t actually take apart the radio but I did in the past to install my grom audio. I returned the unit but the forked harness was still attached and tuck away under the glove (I’m too lazy to take apart everything). I routed my power wire from the switch to the power wire on the harness and the PFM actuator turned whether the ignition was on or off. The switch had no control over stopping the motor from continuously running so I had to disconnect it before I damage my motor.

This wire is directly connected to the fuse because I accidently blew the radio fuse because I connected my ground to the positive wire. That’s the reason why I ask would any 12v fuse be ok.

In any case I’ll run down to the local parts store after work to pick-up a fuse jumper and go from there.

oo7spy

So you did have 12V to the switch, but the switch didn't affect the motor turning? In that case, there is something wrong with the switch or how you wired the switch. Keep that configuration and figure out the switch. The power wire isn't your problem.

When the switch is off, inputs and outputs should not be connected. When the switch is one way, you should be connected, and when the switch is the other way, the connections are opposite.

titomang

Yes, I did have 12v to the switch having tried both the battery and the power wire on the radio harness and the switch didn't do anything. It didn't turn off the motor nor did it turn the motor. The motor just continuously turned whether ignition was on/off.

I don't know what else to do as far as the wiring goes. My switch harness has 9 original wires and the PFM switch harness has 10 wires. I just added in the additional wire to my harness which is positive for the PFM function via pigtail. All of my other mirror function works just as usual except the power folding function (this is whether the 12v is connected to the switch or not). I guess the wiring for the other mirror functions are independent of the PFM function.

So I'm guess using a fuse jumper won’t help in my case?

ChocBoyWonder

iTrader: (1)

So you get power to the motor when the car was off? You said you did this setup with the accord or you were just following that other post?

oo7spy

Your switch is wired incorrectly or broken.

titomang

Choc, yes I do get power to the motor when the car is off. I was just following a post that someone did.

007, I'll go back to the drawing board and double check my wiring as it's a better chance it's this than the switch.

I did actually get the motor to stop (meaning it'll turn in/out) with reverse polarity. I'll have a friend who's great w/ electronics come over the weekend to take a look at it if I don't figure it out by then.

I'll keep you guys posted as I'm not giving up on this.

titomang

I'm looking at the wiring diagram so I can check for continuity once the PFM button is pressed. Can anyone explain to me how to specifically check for continuity using a multi-meter. I know that you have to set it to OHM but where do I touch the COM plug pin and the RED plug pin and does the ignition have to be on?

I want to make sure I have continuity between pin#9 & pin#10 because according to the wiring diagram there suppose to be a connection there.

EDIT:

I believe I've been doing that w/ a test light but I'm not sure if it's the same concept. With the test light I would put the clip to the ground wire of the switch and go through each pin to see if there's power. When doing this my L & R mirrors would adjust but there was no power to the PFM switch. Would this be the same as doing the continuity test?

Thanks

titomang

Update:

I've been super busy lately but here's a sneak peak. It looks like the PFM switch is defective. I've sent the defective one back and the new one is on back order until the 5th. Stay tune for the DIY in a few weeks.

ChocBoyWonder

iTrader: (1)

Sweet!! Good look! Cant wait.

Fuchfaccio

I so need to do this mod on my 09. I was wondering what parts exactly you needed to order however. 11,12,13 and 20? Or do you only need the control set from the 2011-12? My existing mirror should already have the actuator (up, dwn, lt, rt)shouldn't it? Thanks

titomang

Yes, you already have the mirror actuator. All you need is the following parts below. The wiring and the removal process is the tricky part

· R, PFM actuator - #76211-SJA-A11
· L, PFM actuator - #76216-SJA-A11
· PFM switch - #35190-SJA-013

Fuchfaccio

Will be ordering these parts this week. I'll let you know how I make out. I'm good with electronics and hopefully will figure it out. Or if you get it figured out, let us know. Thanks