Hey folks, has anyone experience this before? I haven't driven my RL in a few weeks. Yesterday I went to take the car out and noticed the keyless entry wasn't working. I assumed the battery was out so I charged the battery overnight with my tender and it showed a full charge by the morning.

Unfortunately that did not resolve the issue and the car still does not start. I tired to turn on a few things that don't require the car to start such as power switches and the headlights, but they still do not work. Interior lights do come on though when I turn them on.

Anyone know what could be the issue? What really sucks is my extended warranty JUST expired 5 days ago. Is towing going to be an issue? Any recommendations on how to get this car towed?

thanks!

 

So do you wanna spend time diagnosing it yourself or are you planning on getting it towed? Check the main battery yourself if you can...remove the underhood fuse box cover and check both the battery and ignition fuses, both are held in by screws and are on the far right side of the box looking at it from the front of the car. Will the ignition switch turn to the on position or is it locked?

 

Only tow the RL on a flatbed. That will ensure you do not burn up the transfer case or rear diff.

There is a 50A fuse on the (+) terminal battery cable. Check that and all of your other fuses.

 

The 50 amp fuse on the battery only powers the radiator fan control unit relay and will not keep the car from not starting.

 

Since we are throwing darts... I would reset the whole car... then get in if it doesnt recognize your FOB you have a sync issue.

You could also attempt to start it with the physical key to rule the mechanics.

 

Yes, try the physical key. Your fob battery could be dead.

 

Couldn't really figure this out, so had the car towed to my friend's shop. The tow truck drover showed me the small tab by the shifter that can be removed and then releasing the shifter into neutral. Learn something new every day! I'll keep you guys posted...

 

That tab is for moving the car a short distance, like the length of a flat bed, not for towing.

 

hopefully it was put on a flatbed and towed.

So a physical key start didnt work?

 

Yes, that is correct. We got it into neutral and rolled a few feet onto the flatbed.

No, physical key did not work. It simply will not start. And to clarify, I have no power at all (other then the interior lights adjacent to the sunroof that turn on/off).

 

sounds to me like a fuse/connection issue.

if it were ECU/FOB related it wouldnt be NO power.

 

Scared me for a second.

 

My mechanic is dumbfounded at the moment. He cant hook a scanner to it, because there is no power to the accesories but, there is acutal power in the wires just nothing is turning on. Possibly a bad module or something?

 

its a pain in the ass but its time to break out the ol amp meter and find out where the power is stopping.

Start at the fuse box and you will find the module.

 

I would try pulling fuses one by one to isolate circuits with potential shorts in them and see if any one changes the issue.

 

Update- Having the car towed to the dealership. My mechanic exhausted every possibility and could not figure out the issue. I'll let you guys know what happened. Hope this doesn't cost me a grip to fix. ughh

 

that sucks...

Hopefully the dealer will tell the story in detail for us

 

So dealer was able to sort this out. The passenger side door handle shorted out and blew a fuse. They have to replace the door handle @$545.33. I called Acura and they MIGHT replace this under my extended warranty since it literally expired only 1 week ago! Crossing fingers!

 

Thanks for posting this. Door handles have had issues, none that would cause the car not to start. Never would have found that one. I guess somehow this is tied into the ignition?

 

That's the thing that scares me about all this electrickery - it's too damned complicated for an idiot like me.

 

its odd, that the physical key didnt work in this scenario... I'm curious if there is more to the story.

 

If either door sensor shorts out internally, it can cause fuse #7 10 amp under dash to blow which takes out many components including ignition switch, immobilizer, radio display panel, MICU etc....Just makes me wonder if the original mechanic bothered to check all the fuses...If he did not catch a simple blown fuse, (btw, it will continue to blow until the faulty door handle is unplugged) it could have been a much more costly repair than what the dealer is charging. At best, these independent shops have ALLDATA, which compared to the resources a dealer has, is like comparing a helm manual to a chiltons autozone special...missing quite a bit of solid info. Glad u got it figured out

 

 

Looks like everything is now fixed and Acura came through! They only charged me about $100. Much better then the $500+ I was looking at a few days ago! Thank you Acura Care!

 

wow, buy a lotto ticket

 

Acura Care rules. Just try to get Ford, GM or Chrysler to pay for anything.