VTEC problem?? clicking in high rpm/hesitation at 6000rpm in 3rd gear pull

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-29-2012, 12:40 PM
  #1  
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
23109VC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 2,112
Received 103 Likes on 79 Posts
VTEC problem?? clicking in high rpm/hesitation at 6000rpm in 3rd gear pull

ok, this noise has been driving me crazy for a while. i've noticed this off/on for a good year... the problem was intermittent for a long time.. now it seems to be constant.

my car sounds and drives completely normal most of the time... this problem ONLY is audible at high rpm.

if i get into VTEC, i will hear a clicking noise..like valve chatter sound.. the car still seems to pull hard, accelerate, etc... it just was a noise I heard.. it's not detonation.. because if I hear the noise, then back off the gas and let the engine decelerate - i can still hear it. the noise is ONLY there when VTEC engages.. so at about 5500rpm.. you start to hear it. it it there all the way to redline..

it's there in any gear. 1st, 2nd, 3rd... it's not a transmission issue.

as I sit in my car.. if I try to listen to the sound.. it "seems" to be coming from the passenger side of the car, up in the engine bay... it's not a sound IN hte car... or a rattling part... it's something in teh engine, related to when VTEC kicks in.

the other night, i was on the freeway,, late late late.... and was accelerating in 3rd gear... on the freeway i'm usually just cruising... but tonight i gave it some gas and had it in manual mode and pushed 3rd gear to redline.

1) the sound was there.

2) this s teh WEIRD part. in third gear, as my car was in VTEC, about to hit 6000 rpm.. i felt the car hesitate...actually slow acceleration, and the revs dropped a bit.. it was like the car slowed down a bit.. but my foot was firmly planted on the gas..then the car slowly built power back up and continued. it was strange.. it didn't feel like a "sputter"... it felt like the car just momentartily slowed down then sped back up...

i was able to repeat that several times. it wasn't a fluke. i've now noticed this 3rd gear 6000rpm problem on different days..so it wasn't just one bad batch of gas, or some weird problem, or something in my head.

i'm betting these things are related. i've surfed all over the web reading stuff about VTEC problems, solenoids, oil issues,e tc etc.

my car is due for an oil change. i'll see what the dealer says. i had the car in for service abou ta year ago and mentinoed the clicking/chattering noise and they said they coudln't replicate it. it hen took the tech for a ride, and they said they'd loook into it, then the SA later todl me they didn't know what it was..and basicallly said they had no answer for me...

as back then it came/went and was not a huge concern.. i just let it go. this time i'm not taking "i don't know" for an answer.

my car has a CPO warranty so they canf ix it... i'm just curious what it is. and hoping it's not somethig horrible that has damaged hte motor, or something lke that.

the clickking sound is like detonation.. it's like a coffee can is full of beans and you are shaking the can... that's what it sounds lke.. makes me think it's maybe VTEC not fully engaging? the fact that my car then slows down in 3rd gear.. i was wondering if maybe oil pressure is low? maybe it can't hold enough pressure to sustain VTEC during a long pull in 3rd gear so it almost falls out of VTEC? then as pressure builds back up, it reengages?

that's just a guess.. anyone care to chime in or offer any ideas?
Old 01-31-2012, 09:10 AM
  #2  
Pro
 
alfadoctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Prescott Valley, Arizona
Age: 76
Posts: 572
Received 47 Likes on 35 Posts
I will ask you this question if I was the service writer...when was the last time you had your valves checked? Yes, they are adjustable, as there is a sticker on the underside of the hood showing clearances (at least on my '06 there is). If your VTEC valves are not in spec, they will clatter when the VTEC is engaged. I would also ask you when the last time you had your spark plugs replaced? If you have more than 50,000 miles on them, I would replace them, even if the recommended is 100,000 miles. Your plugs might be at the point of breaking down under high load.
Old 01-31-2012, 09:44 AM
  #3  
Senior Moderator
 
oo7spy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 31,897
Received 7,247 Likes on 4,858 Posts
^This. Get your valves adjusted and report back.
Old 01-31-2012, 09:49 AM
  #4  
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
 
HEAVY_RL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RVa
Age: 44
Posts: 7,123
Received 1,041 Likes on 846 Posts
IMO all engines (motorcycles, lawn mowers, boats) are noisy at higher RPMs. It could be baffles removed from the intake, bad (or not premium) gas, crappy oil, valve adjustment, or a number of things.

The problem with descriptions like this is that one person may think something sounds worse than it really is.

If you think something is wrong you either need to post a vid of the sound or take it a service center and ask the tech to ride with you as you replicate it.
Old 01-31-2012, 09:43 PM
  #5  
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
23109VC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 2,112
Received 103 Likes on 79 Posts
thanks guys.. I actually have shot video with audio... via my iphone.. not the BEST video camera...but pretty good..the weird part is the mic on teh iphone doens't pick up the clicking that well...so it's hard to hear. sitting in the car the clicking/clanking noise is very audible....

sometimes..and I have not been able to detect a pattern... the sound seems less noticeable... but it always comes back.. sometimes it's VERY loud... it's not some little "i think I hear something".. it's really loud.

for most RL drivers.. who NEVER redline their car.. you'd never hear it. for me.. who loves to paddle shift and push it into VTEC all the time.. it's really annoying.

i am goign to take it in this week and get it looked at. i will recommend they check valves and perhaps swap out plugs.

assuming I do my plugs.. what plugs do you recommend? on a prior car, that was all modded.. i swapped out plugs wiht the $$ platinum ones. and honestly, it didn't do anything for performance.. so i'm inclined to just put in OEM plugs.. unless someone here can chime in on why some kind of aftermarket plug is better. thanks.

my car has 60k miles on it... is it possible the OEM plugs have worn to the point that repalcing them woudl actually help performance..or are my plugs probably fine? i guess it couldn't hurt to change them and at least see...

thanks again guys.. I really appreciate the help. i really do like my RL..and this clicking/ticking noise is driving me nuts.

Last edited by 23109VC; 01-31-2012 at 09:46 PM.
Old 02-01-2012, 07:51 AM
  #6  
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (4)
 
EL19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: DC
Age: 37
Posts: 5,340
Received 194 Likes on 151 Posts
I always go with the NGK iridium. They have always outperformed and outlasted platinum on all my vehicles, even my supercharged ones
Old 02-01-2012, 10:24 AM
  #7  
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
 
HEAVY_RL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RVa
Age: 44
Posts: 7,123
Received 1,041 Likes on 846 Posts
Originally Posted by 23109VC

for most RL drivers.. who NEVER redline their car.. you'd never hear it. for me.. who loves to paddle shift and push it into VTEC all the time.. it's really annoying.
Old 02-02-2012, 04:40 PM
  #8  
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
23109VC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 2,112
Received 103 Likes on 79 Posts
i took my car to the dealer today for a routine oil change AND to have them listen to the noise.... on my way TO the dealer it did it.

I get to the dealer and they want to go on a test drive with me, a tech comes along. it WON'T make the noise... OMG! it's been doing it nonstop for weeks.. the one time a tech gets in my car, it stops doing it.

i mentioned the issue where my car seemingly slows down in third gear while in VTEC and the tech suggested my tranny could be overheating and it is forcing the car to slow down to avoid damage... i dunno.

i had them change my tranny fluid.. and see if that helps at all. it was 30k miles since it was last changed. will see if that does anything.

i may go back tonight and try to drive it again with them and see if it makes the noise onc emore time... i swear.. the second I take it home, it will act up again probably.. unbelievalbe.
Old 02-03-2012, 08:36 AM
  #9  
Instructor
 
jfarabaugh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Malvern, PA
Age: 44
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by 23109VC
I get to the dealer and they want to go on a test drive with me, a tech comes along. it WON'T make the noise... OMG! it's been doing it nonstop for weeks.. the one time a tech gets in my car, it stops doing it.

i may go back tonight and try to drive it again with them and see if it makes the noise onc emore time... i swear.. the second I take it home, it will act up again probably.. unbelievalbe.
Sounds about right.
Old 02-05-2012, 01:38 PM
  #10  
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
23109VC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 2,112
Received 103 Likes on 79 Posts
my wife picked the car up for me... i get home, take it out for a spin... noise is back! OMFG!

I may go back by the dealer Monday and see if I can get a tech to go back out with me.

The tech did say that he thinks some of the Acura cars have noisier valves at higher rpm.... but since we never heard it together, he wasn't able to say "that's valves" or Not.

any of you think you have educated guesses about what the sound is? it only comes on du ring VTEC... it never happens below 5500rpm... and when it does come on.. it's usually at 5500-6000 rpm.. and it says all the way to redline.. it gets worse as the revs go up.. but if i let off the gas... the noise is still there until it falls back below 5500rpm... so it's not ONLY when the car is under power... it happens in all gears... 1-2-3.. I haven't tried it in 4th as i would be going too fast...

when I go it in third.. the weird problem is that the car seems to slow down... literally. the tach is going 5000-5500-6000.. and then, even thouhg my foot is planted on the gas.. the tach stops...the car feels like it slows down..then the tach falls back down to like 5700, then it slowly starts to accelerate again.. but without much power... None of this is abrupt or jerky or anything.. when i described this to the tech he thouhg I was talking about the rev limiter.. NO. i've hit that.. this is nothign liek that. this is a smooth loss of power.. as if the car just runs out of breath and slows down... then speeds back up.. it's weird. it's absolutely not normal.

i think it's tied to the VTEC problem.. because when I drove wiht him on the freeway, this 3rd gear thing was GONE too.... then when I pickup my car and hte noise is back.. so is this problem. so they are linked.

he had thought they may be separate unrelated problems... he suggested my tranny was heating up and slowing itself down in some protection mode to stop me from overheating it... but it did it the ohter night on the first hard run I gave it.. so no way is it from overheating.

guess I'll have to make another trip to the dealer.

i had my oil changed and tranny oil cchanged at the last visit.. noe of those fluids being new/fresh apparently helped at all.. so it is something else.

any ideas?? i'll eventually get this fixed.. and it will be intersting to see what the heck it is!
Old 02-06-2012, 01:59 AM
  #11  
Pro
 
alfadoctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Prescott Valley, Arizona
Age: 76
Posts: 572
Received 47 Likes on 35 Posts
Ok, thank you for the updates!
When was the last time you had the fuel filter replaced? Sounds to me like the engine is demanding more fuel than the pump can deliver with the fuel filter as a restriction. Most likely the fuel filter would be my next best thing to replace.
From my understanding a valve adjustment is about $400 from what I have heard on here.
Realize that sometimes you have to start with the obvious and go to the obscure. The dealer did the oil change/tranny change thinking it would do the trick. It is the easiest, quickest and most inexpensive.
IF I was the tech I would have driven the car hard like you do on the freeway to try to replicate the problem before I turned it in with my time sheet. As the tech if I could get the problem to show itself I would diagnose and recommend the service writer call you to authorize a further repair. If it came down to a valve adjustment, then that would be my recommendation. I would also look at the cam for lobe wear when I got the covers off.

Do you realize that the new oils have removed Boron out of the oil to help protect the catalytic converters? There is a new oil code that says it is a low boron oil. This can cause excessive cam wear in some engines. Boron levels used to be over a 1000 parts/million. I think they are below a 100 now. (guessing), that is why I use synthetic oil so I don't worry about this stuff.

If that didn't resolve the issue, then you have to start digging further into a root cause.
The tech can go onto a data base, type in the question and see what other techs have done in this case. Or call the regional manager in to take a look at the car, and he would call Acura to speak to someone in the engine dept. to help diagnose your problem.

There are avenues, you just haven't gone down all the streets yet.
Old 02-06-2012, 09:46 AM
  #12  
Senior Moderator
 
oo7spy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 31,897
Received 7,247 Likes on 4,858 Posts
The fuel filter is in the gas tank. Honda does not recommend changing it because it is a PITA. You CAN do it, but it would not be my first approach.
The following users liked this post:
Gimpies-Daddy (07-27-2021)
Old 02-07-2012, 02:38 AM
  #13  
Pro
 
alfadoctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Prescott Valley, Arizona
Age: 76
Posts: 572
Received 47 Likes on 35 Posts
007spy, what is your idea on this?
What happened to the fuel filter just before it goes into fuel rail like all the other Honda's? Usually it is right up front where you can swap it out under 15 minutes. Honda will sell you the filter and two new rings. In the tank sounds like a primary filter with a front secondary filter to catch all the find stuff before the injectors. Even my 65 Alfa had this set up...a wire screen in the tank and a paper filter/regulator just before the Weber carbs. Even the carbs had a fine wire mesh screen just before the needle valve to catch any micro particles.
Curious to know what the root cause of this noise is and fall off in performance.
Old 02-07-2012, 06:46 AM
  #14  
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
 
HEAVY_RL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RVa
Age: 44
Posts: 7,123
Received 1,041 Likes on 846 Posts
Quit running the ragged piss out of it and buy a sports car.
Old 02-07-2012, 12:03 PM
  #15  
Safety Car
 
Chas2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 4,217
Received 38 Likes on 29 Posts
There are threads about the hitch in third when VTEC kicks in. This is in manual. Does not appear to happen in auto, but let me just say the last $150+ speeding ticket has kept me way out of that range...VTEC in third is reckless driving here...
Old 02-07-2012, 12:58 PM
  #16  
Senior Moderator
 
oo7spy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 31,897
Received 7,247 Likes on 4,858 Posts
^ Red line in third is like 108 mph.
Originally Posted by alfadoctor
007spy, what is your idea on this?
What happened to the fuel filter just before it goes into fuel rail like all the other Honda's? Usually it is right up front where you can swap it out under 15 minutes. Honda will sell you the filter and two new rings. In the tank sounds like a primary filter with a front secondary filter to catch all the find stuff before the injectors.
It has been my understanding that the fuel filter has been in the tank since at least the 2G Legend.

Part 4 here is labeled as "Fuel Filter Set". Even searching for "Fuel Filter" takes you to this diagram of the tank.
Old 02-07-2012, 01:17 PM
  #17  
Suzuka Master
 
Mr Marco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 8,490
Received 609 Likes on 493 Posts
Originally Posted by Chas2
105K is the interval discussed in the initial Acura technical releases on the 2005 RL

http://hondanews.com/channels/acura-...query=acura+rl

105,000-MILE TUNE-UP INTERVALS
The RL requires no scheduled maintenance until 105,000 miles, other than periodic inspections and normal fluid and filter replacements. This first tune-up includes water pump inspection, valve adjustment, and replacement of the cam-timing belt and sparkplugs.

The owners manual notes that under severe conditions, including temperature extremes, you want to do it every 60K miles.

If you drive regularly in very high temperatures (over
110°F, 43°C), or in very low temperatures (under
-20°F, 029°C), replace every 60,000 mile (U.S.)/
100,000 km (Canada)

C series engines, the G1 and G2 Legend was amended from every 60K to 90K or 6 years, whichever comes first.

Not sure what the intervals were on the 1G RL until the 2002 1G RL. That C series engine was the first time I became aware of the change to the 105K mile timing belt interval for RL's.
.
Old 02-07-2012, 01:43 PM
  #18  
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
 
HEAVY_RL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RVa
Age: 44
Posts: 7,123
Received 1,041 Likes on 846 Posts
This seems appropriate.

Old 02-08-2012, 08:24 PM
  #19  
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
23109VC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 2,112
Received 103 Likes on 79 Posts
VTEC kicks in a lot in my car.... YO!

i had a lead foot as a teenager and young adult. Every car i"ve ever owned since high school has been modified in some way... some HIGHLY modified. The RL is the first car that I have not gone nuts on... and I do drive much slower than I used to.. partially I'm older/wiser..partially the RL just encourages one to enjoy the ride and not go fast... but it is still fun to punch it.. from time to time...

of course tongiht.. on the way home from work.. my car REFUSSED to make that noise..and I do think it felt noticeably more smooth and powerful in the upper rpms.. not neck snapping faster.. but it had more pull at upper rpms. whatever is going on it is an intermittent problem...

updates to follow...
Old 03-12-2012, 10:08 PM
  #20  
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
23109VC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 2,112
Received 103 Likes on 79 Posts
Update..

Ok, I have noticed a trend. As it has become warmer here I'm noticing that when the temps are warmer.. The clicking in vtec, is not there. When its warmer and the car is probable running at a higher temp, the weird clicking noise above 5500 rom goes away. When it's gone the car feels faster and pulls harder in higher rpm

I'm convinced my car is having a problem getting fully into vtec. When it's hotter it goes away.

I'm going to go back to dealer with this info and see if theycan diagnose it

Do any of you have any thought as to what this might be? When car is cul or it's cold outside car seems to not want to go into vtec and I get ticking and chattering noise above 5500 rpm. It starts as soon as car should transition to vtec


Any ideas???
Old 03-12-2012, 10:47 PM
  #21  
Cruisin'
 
GizmoPDX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 15
Received 5 Likes on 2 Posts
Since you linked it to the VTEC engagement, maybe faulty VTEC oil pressure switch or solenoid? I'm not a mechanic by any means, but there are components controlling the oil pressure changes required for VTEC. Could be its sticking when cold and loosens up when warmer. I believe there is a pdf document in the garage section which focuses on VTEC for 05-08.
Old 03-13-2012, 09:54 PM
  #22  
Drifting
Thread Starter
 
23109VC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 2,112
Received 103 Likes on 79 Posts
i 'm going to go back to the dealer.

i have had my car there twice for this and they have not resolved it. i'm not taking my car back from them until it's fixed.

$5 says it's exactly that. .. some sensor or solenoid that is faulty and intermittently sticking. when my car works right.. it is great... VTEC swtiches over and wow.. it has a great smooth hard pull up to redline.

when i get that frickin clicking noise.. it accelerates flat out crappy... as if vtec is tryign to engage and then not doing it... sucks.
Old 03-15-2012, 04:17 PM
  #23  
Pro
 
alfadoctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Prescott Valley, Arizona
Age: 76
Posts: 572
Received 47 Likes on 35 Posts
This is symptomatic of a bad relay. The switch contacts maybe burnt or the solenoid itself might be getting weak, hence it won't kick in when it is required. I am not familiar with this system of how it kicks in. It might be a contact switch that when it reaches a certain throttle position, it is supposed to be energized, and the contact isn't making contact. It might even be in the computer, it isn't sensing the inputs to make the switch to open for the oil pressure to energize the VTEC.
Did they put the car on a code reader to see if there are any codes stored in the system?
It is going to most likely be a simple problem to remove, just have to sit down with the tech books and see where all the sensors/relays are and start to trouble shoot. It won't be a simple fix, just a simple part.
The following users liked this post:
HEAVY_RL (03-15-2012)
Old 03-24-2012, 08:05 AM
  #24  
Senior Moderator
 
typeR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Port Richey, FL
Age: 56
Posts: 7,588
Received 48 Likes on 33 Posts
Originally Posted by 23109VC
i 'm going to go back to the dealer.

i have had my car there twice for this and they have not resolved it. i'm not taking my car back from them until it's fixed.

$5 says it's exactly that. .. some sensor or solenoid that is faulty and intermittently sticking. when my car works right.. it is great... VTEC swtiches over and wow.. it has a great smooth hard pull up to redline.

when i get that frickin clicking noise.. it accelerates flat out crappy... as if vtec is tryign to engage and then not doing it... sucks.
ok ... heres where u need to consider looking at the CATs ...

heres a few concerns ... one your tech saying transmission protecting the car or whatever... wow get a different tech ... ask if you can have the head tech look at it

the guy that said your VTEC valves need adjusting ... really VTEC valves ?
can someone maybe point those out to me not sure where to find them


interestingly 5500 in my car is the park/neutral rev limit fuel cut and one of the limp mode fail safes ... ill bet its the same on the RL

on my car the CAT started melting and breaking up ... peices would rattle around " beans in a coffee can " when flow was hi enough im assuming these peices were forced back into the cat plugging the cat and the car would die


i got codes from this though ... random mis /mis on all cylinders cat etc


even if you have no MIL/CEL goto an auto parts store and have them read for codes thrown... if you did throw codes and went through multiple drive cycles where it didnt triiger a cel again the cel could go out but codes still be stored ...


pm me or re post here results
Old 07-22-2021, 09:08 PM
  #25  
1st Gear
 
aeryeff112349's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: malaysia
Age: 36
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
tck-tck-tck noise

Hi sir did you find issue for this problem. i also having this issue now. Kindly please share your finding.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yumcha
Automotive News
9
02-25-2020 09:57 AM
asianspec
Cameras & Photography
34
11-04-2019 11:11 AM
brandnewcolony
3G TL (2004-2008)
53
09-12-2015 10:39 AM
HeloDown
3G TL Problems & Fixes
4
09-08-2015 06:51 PM
Desert Ridge
2G RDX (2013-2018)
6
09-05-2015 09:47 AM



Quick Reply: VTEC problem?? clicking in high rpm/hesitation at 6000rpm in 3rd gear pull



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:42 AM.