dmaster3

My car won't start, I can unlock and use everything but when I try to turn the ignition it won't turn. The key light won't show up, it doesent recognize the key when its in the car, the ignition won't turn and the built in key is not working. I need to get home. Please respond fast! Sorry bout the spam.

dwboston

Sounds like the immobilizer system is not recognizing the fob. The only thing in the manual is to make sure that there is no metal near the ignition - supposedly it could interefere with the signal. You need to call the dealer.

gdevine

Did you try moving the wheel? I have had several situations where the ignition would not turn, but moving the wheel back and forth will unlock the ignition.

dmaster3

I'll try the week today.

dmaster3

Ok, the car is at home safe. I called my dealer and they suggested turning the wheel to the left while trying to turn the ignition and it worked! I don't know if this is in the Known Problems & Quirks sction but it probably should be because it can happen to anyone at any time. The Acura service helper said this happens sometimes and that tou just have to turn the wheel to the left.

Thanks for all the help guys, mods can delete this thread if they want to now.

- Seth

neuronbob

Glad you got the problem solved. I moved this to the main forum. No need to delete it, it could help someone else.

gavine

That can happen in any car.....

jftjr

Yes... this can happen in any car... there was stress in the steering column, usually caused by the tires being slightly turned when wheel was locked, and the car being on an incline. Turning the wheel released the stress against the lock pawl, which let you turn the key.

TampaRLX-SH

Yep...it can happen in any car. But not every car will AutoMagically greet you, adjust the seats and mirrors, set the climate control, tune your favorite stereo channel and keylessly turn over with the flip of the ignition paddle. The RL has conditioned us not to expect the barbaric steering wheel lock.

dmaster3

Thats weird because i was in a flat parking lot with my wheels straightened completely. My luck I guess. haha.

Rob144

I get that more often than I'd care to mention. I'm still only about 60% starting the car at the first turn of the starter, all the while the wheel is bouncing up and down.

I am going to try to be more patient to let the FOB sync up, because I am usually trying to start the car the moment my butt hits the driver's seat (often before the door is closed).

I wish the system were a little more "graceful". Maybe not tilting the wheel until the FOB is sync-ed up.

Rob144

VOdoc

+1

SpicyMikey

Pretty common quirk with all cars. It's amazing that's is the first time it's every happened to you, dmaster3. My 16 year old daughter (after only driving 3 months) called me one day from the mall in a panic. Daddy, the car is broken! I can't turn the ignition!! I laughed of course and gave her the simple solution you guys already mentioned.

I guess that's another plus for push button start

dmaster3

Just though I would tell you guys that my batterie died today. Nothing works except the interior light controls, the light for door will turn on if I push it. Should I charge it or replace it in your opinion? It's just weird because I didn't leave anything on, it just died.
Oh well.

- Seth

neuronbob

Just replace it and save yourself trouble in the future. You can do it in two ways:

a) You can go to the dealer and have it replaced under warranty (prorated) for another OEM battery

b) (Preferred) pick an aftermarket battery that fits the RL and buy that as it'll likely be better.

TampaRLX-SH

^ +1

It seems OEM batteries in every new car I have owned, I was lucky to get 2 years out of them. When they go, they go, no warning, not tired engine crank, just unexpectedly DEAD. And it usually happens when the weather is hottest or coldest.

I believe there is an OEM battery conspiracy!

Chas2

Look at the warranty for the battery carefully. The warranty manual says 100% warranty for four years/50K, at least in my 2006. You can get a new battery out of it. Be firm and don't let them jack you around.

I have not had a battery problem, but I was floored when I read that statement.

SpicyMikey

I agree Tampa. OEM batteries and tires. They NEVER last as long as they should. Clearly these OEM items are spec'd differently then OTC items to save the manufacturer money

fstshrk

OEM Battery in 04 M3 (purchased Dec 03), no issues.

I had the same thing happen in my 08 today at the gas station. The steering wheel was locked and would not unlock. Finally I realized that the wheel needed to be turned.

kmcheney

This year I just replaced the OEM battery in my 2000 Honda Odyssey purchased 7 1/2 years previous and with 100K miles on it. Not all are unfit.

dmaster3

Mine sure was!

I got my batterie replaced today and I must say I really get what you guys have been saying about Acura and it's advertising for the RL. In my dealership I had to ask if they had one inside and I was guided down a long hallway and sure enough they had a silver RL tucked behind a corner (about 50 feet or more from the main showroom). Although they didn't have a RL in the main showroom I had a great experience with their service dept. I had to pay $14 for a new batterie (warranty), car wash (free), interior cleaning (free) and to renew my emmisions inspection sticker ($14).

While I was gone the dealership called me twice and told me how much time was left until I could pick it up and to ask me if I wanted a car wash.

It was a very impressive visit and they even cleaned off my rims that had dirt caked on an inch thick.

( The dealership was Gunn Acura in San Antonio )

ram_g

Can happen if you (intentionally or accidentally) gave the steering wheel a yank after parking the car and turning it off. Like if you tugged on it in the process of getting out of the car. Essentially that sets the steering wheel lock with a bit of pre-load that can be hard to overcome with the key mechanism.

sammie

I am a little late posting to this problem but I have had this difficulty pop up a few times and it is not associated with the way that the steering wheel is turned. I memtioned it to the dealer and they said turn the steering wheel, understandable since this is a common problem especially if your knees hit the steering wheel when exiting the car. Also a common problem when I had BMWs that had manual steering columns. The RL steering wheel gets out of the way. The only way to get the key to turn was to actually man handle it to get it past the stop. The key would turn enough to activate the steering wheel positioning partially, when the wheel is locked, as in turned too far, this does not happen. One day I will not be able to defeat the problem and I will have to be towed, sure hope that the car is still in warranty when that happens.

VPescado

I've had similar experiences to Sammie.

I know what it feels like when the wheel is putting pressure on the ignition switch, and how easy it is to fix. But probably about 5% of the time The switch is jammed and turning the wheel in either direction doesn't help. It usually takes about 30 seconds of rocking the key back and forth (all the while having the steering wheel is extending and retracting if I turn the switch too far - which doesn't help the process).

I'm glad to hear that others are having the problem because hopefully there might be a TSB for this eventually.

I would ask my dealer, but I just took my RL in for my first A1 service (and safety recall, and windshield wiper TSB), and was asking the Service Guy about any fix for the DST change issue (I thought there was a fix for it that didn't involve buying a new Nav DVD), and he mentioned that he was not aware that the Navi disk would fix the problem. He expressed annoyance that no one had told him. So I don't think I'm dealing with rocket scientists.

gavine

I had this same problem yesterday and turning the wheel didn't help. I then realized that I didn't have my key-fob on me. If this happens when you have the key, is it possible that something is interfering with the key's transmission signal?

Chas2

Yes, there are examples of what can block the transmission in the owners manual.

The system may not work if:
The battery of the remote is weak.
You carry a cell phone, a laptop
computer, or other electrical
device near the remote.
There is strong electrical current
nearby.
The remote is covered by metal.
A vehicle is being operated with a
transmitter nearby.
When the remote battery is dead.
When the vehicle battery is dead.
Make sure the driver always carries
the remote/built-in key set.

Protect the remote and the built-in
key from direct sunlight, high
temperature, and high humidity.
Always keep the remote and the
built-in key away from any magnetic
material.

You should have received a key
number tag with your built-in key.
You will need this key number if you
ever have to get a lost key replaced.
Use only Acura-approved key blanks.

Chas2

Yes, this is discussed in the Owners Manual, p. 159 (2006).

The system may not work if:
The battery of the remote is weak.
You carry a cell phone, a laptop
computer, or other electrical
device near the remote.
There is strong electrical current
nearby.
The remote is covered by metal.
A vehicle is being operated with a
transmitter nearby.
When the remote battery is dead.
When the vehicle battery is dead.

Make sure the driver always carries
the remote/built-in key set.

Protect the remote and the built-in
key from direct sunlight, high
temperature, and high humidity.

Keep the remote and the built-in key
away from liquids. If they get wet,
dry them immediately with a soft
cloth.

Do not drop the remote or the
built-in key, and do not set heavy
objects on them.

The built-in keys do not contain
batteries.

Always keep the remote and the
built-in key away from any magnetic
material.

You should have received a key
number tag with your built-in key.
You will need this key number if you
ever have to get a lost key replaced.
Use only Acura-approved key blanks.

kmcheney

I normally keep my key fob in my left pants pocket. On occassion, the ignition acts like it has an intermittent connection when I get in to start the car. If I just move my left leg a little further to the center of the car, it then always works without incident. I've come to believe that the signal is fairly weak and the fob needs to be very close to the steering wheel for it to all check out and work properly.

Where is your fob when you're having these troubles?

SpicyMikey

I can lean into my car from the opened window and start my car. I've done it once or twice.

Something seems wrong. Maybe your battery is dying.

GoHawks

Mine is either in my left pant or coat pocket and it's worked 99.9% of the time. I have run into the rare case where I may try to turn on the ignition before I'm even sitting down and it won't turn.

It's happened maybe two or three times in the 1.5 years I've owned the car.

neuronbob

I agree. Luckily, the battery is not hard to replace. Haven't had this problem, luckily.

dmaster3

When I had this problem I tried putting the key fob everywhere in the front of my car. I keep it in my left pocket and my cell phone in my right because they warn you that the two can be bad for each other when in very close proximity to each other.

By the way have you guts noticed how well the RL handles in a slide? It is very easy to recover when you put the RL into a slide in wet weather, the feeling of the tires catching traction and jerking you back into your seat never gets old.

sammie

It appears that I am not the only one who has experienced the gremlin that prevents your ignition from working. I failed to mention earlier that when this problem hit, I tried to use my key albeit to no avail. I did have my electronic fob nearby, wonder if there could have been some interference there.

I really appreciate all of the comments and hope that this problem can be resolved by Acura before one of us is really hung out!

///M Roadster

No, you are not the only one, it turns out.
I just had my RL towed to local dealer.

After I parked the car for about 30 minutes and came back, opened the door as I always do with convenient access. Saw the "welcome" screen but no "Driver 1" message. I tried to turn the ignition, it wouldn't budge. I tried the key, it still wouldn't budge. I actually got the second key from home and tried it (with first key being away), but same result.

More shocking was when I called the TLC. Guys asked, what kinda of car and I told him "RL". Guy asked if it was 2 door or 4 door. I tried to be nice and told him "4 door". Guy asked if it was front or rear wheel drive. That was when I had to ask, "Is this Acura Roadside Assistance???". Then I proceeded to tell him "All wheel drive".

20 minutes later, regular tow truck came. What? Didn't I tell him "AWD"??? Even the tow truck guy was surprised, "Your car is all whell drive?".

What can I say, I never had smiliar experience with BMW Roadside assitance. They knew the model and always offered to send flatbed at all times. Oh well...

///M Roadster

Update.

I went to the dealer before they open today (car was towed on saturday night) to give my 2nd set of keys and to talk to the service advisor. I walked up to the car with key 1 in my pocket and it allowed me to open the door with convenient access as it did on saturday. For the heck of it, I tried to start the car and it started just fine. It still didn't say "driver 1" and it lost all my navigation and its display settings. But it still remembered my seat&mirror positions.

Local dealer did not have a renter for "emergency drop off" such as my case because they were backed up. So I drove off and made an appointment for next week.

This was the first time any of my car(s) stranded me on the road. I guess I have been lucky with all my previous cars in that regard. I hope it won't strand me again until next week...