Logic717

Hi All,

I believe this may be an issue with the trunk lock assembly, but I thought I should be able to open the trunk with just having the key in my pocket. Today, I have to use either the fob or the button on the driver door to open the trunk.

Should I replace just the lock assembly - 74851-SJA-A01

or should I replace the switch? - 74810-SJA-003

or both... I don't think there is another sensor that would allow me to open the trunk... any ideas?

thanks,

-Chad

Chas2

I am not sure how the switch in the glove compartment plays into this, but you might want to check that. I doubt that is the culprit since you can still open the trunk from the door switch. The glove box switch should disable that. The point is, there may be more than just those two parts involved.

Good luck!

Logic717

Thanks for that reminder about the glove box switch. I just tried toggling it, and you are correct, it would not let me use the remote to open the trunk. Flipping it back, I was then able to use the remote again so I think the switch is set correctly.

The reason i suspect it's one of those or both, is because those were the only assemblies from the diagram I saw that appeared to impact the trunk lock function. It's a shot in the dark i guess.

037

call me crazy but I think the key has nothing to do with any locking mechanisms. The key is only present as a backup function.

The key fob is what is giving the car a signal to unlock and lock. I believe your system is working properly. Key fob = open trunk. Key = do nothing (unless you can insert it)

Logic717

thanks for the response 037, I agree with you completely, but I meant to say the key fob, not the key.

When the car is unlocked, I can just put my hand in the door handle and open the door just fine. The proximity sensors in the door handle work as they should. I think i recall from a demo video that I should be able to do the same when opening the trunk. There is that soft rubber latch that you press to open the trunk. What I'm saying is my trunk will not open using that latch. I either have to press the trunk button on the driver door, or use the key fob.

that's the issue I'm trying to troubleshoot. The rubber button on the trunk depresses and clicks like it should, but it will not open the trunk key in hand or not even when the car is unlocked.

Hope that helps clarify the issue I'm having.

037

yes, that definitely clarifies it. Basically trunk does not recognize the key fob.

Um...you can try a different keyfob but it looks like the sensor in the trunk could be busted.

My trunk doesn't even have a key hole in it so my only option to open it is the driver side button.

getakey

You are correct that you should be able to open trunk with fob in pocket.
Wondering if the rear proximity detector has gone bad

Chas2

Sounds like you have to troubleshoot those two pieces you mentioned. How is the trunk latch/lock assembly activated by fob and door switch? The same way as the rubber trunk switch? Pull off the gray trim and take a look at the connections. Use the cargo net installation instructions...they may give a clue as to how to get to the latch/lock assembly.

getakey

As I recall, there is another sensor for proximity to the back of the car. I thought I saw this in a diagram in the owner manual

037

this the diagram?

Logic717

That's the diagram I looked at and 18 and 12 were the 2 assemblies I was looking at. I didn't see any sensors in the parts list, but it wouldn't be the first time I've missed something

getakey

I was thinking of a diagram that showed the proximity regions to unlock the car, i.e. the range of the sensors. It implied that there were sensors on each side of the car as well as in the rear if I am remembering correctly.
Wasn't a part diagram.

037

I think 18 is what the problem might be as I see power going to it.

it's also one of the most expensive parts...a tell tale that something inside must be intelligent, eheh

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Logic717

could it be one of these? I found this under the Keyless Access section of the parts catalog. I'm guessing it's part number 3, but where in the world is that located in the vehicle?

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

getakey

seems like you found it
could it be in the trunk lid

Logic717

Yeah, trying to get to it is a nightmare though.. tons of clips on holding that up... but what's troubling me is that the rubber handle still won't open the trunk when the car itself is unlocked. I could understand it not working when the car is locked, but shouldn't the handle work if the car is already unlocked? most car trunks work that way...

Can someone test that? Try to open the trunk when the car is unlocked and the key is not in your possession.

getakey

I can try that right now

getakey

I can confirm that car unlocked, no fob, trunk opens
Could the sensor be located underneath the plastic section holding the female part of the latch? But, as you state, that does not explain the situation

rmjse

There is a security feature on our RL's that prevents anyone from opening the trunk if the car is on and the fob is not in the car.

Maybe this is what you mean....

Do you start your car and then close the doors with the fob still in your pocket (The car will beep 3 times letting you know that the fob was not detected) and then try to open the trunk?

This is a normal security feature on RL's. I mentioned this to my dealer once and he told me it was normal.

Try this....

Don't start your car or even open the doors. Make sure it's locked. Approach your trunk with the fob in your pocket and try to open the trunk by pressing in the trunk tab. Does it beep once and then open?

Now start you car & close the doors with the fob still in your pocket. The car will beep three times. Then approach the trunk and try and open it by pressing the trunk tab. It should not allow you to open it. Again the dealer informed me that this is normal.

Logic717

I tried both procedures, and with the first, nothing happens. No beep, no nothing.

For the second, i get the 3 beeps, but nothing happens with opening the trunk.

The problem is that even with the car unlocked, using the trunk tab does NOT open the trunk, so not sure if in the first scenario, it's not even checking for proximity because it doesn't detect the tab being depressed... might be one for dealer diagnosis...

Logic717

Thanks for trying this... I think at this point i'm just going to ask the dealer to look into replacing the 'tab' on the trunk and see if that fixes the issue. if it doesn't I'm not sure I care to spend $300 to fix an issue that I have 2 work arounds for

tnobori1

I think 037 might be onto something if the trunk won't open when the car is unlocked. It sounds like it could be the lock assembly (#18).

tnobori1

^ To add to my post. It stands to reason that a sensor would not be the culprit if the key fob is not needed to open the trunk in normal operating conditions. That said, it also seems logical that the problem could be the locking mechanism itself since it is not functional regardless of the location of the key fob.

037

wouldn't the same locking mechanism be linked to the button inside?

I think the stupid handle is disconnected! hopefully a cheap fix

getakey

concur that sensor is probably not the culprit and agree ith 037 that might be simply that the button/handle (whatever it is) is somehow disconnected.

tnobori1

I was thinking about that, too. But who knows if there are components within the mechanism that affect different features. Hopefully it is a disconnected handle!

Logic717

Anyone have any instructions on how to get to that locking mechanism? I tried prying the felt but apparently they are turned locks that are glued to the felt... needless to say, I broke that glue bond...

I suspect it's the handle piece too (part 12 in the diagram) but I can't get to it or the RF sensor in the lid. Looks like I need to just have the dealer inspect it if I can't get my hands on a pdf.

Chas2

Look at the accessory cargo net installation instructions to get into the bottom latch mechanism. It shows how to remove the trim.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/garage-helpful-2g-rl-info-789209/

Look at the rear decklid or even better, the rear camera installation instructions to get into the switch in the trunk lid.
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/AI/BII33590.pdf
or
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/AI/BII31129.pdf

Logic717

Hey Chas2, I can't access the techinfo pages... is there some login/required to view those pdf's?

037

try this one

http://estore.honda.com/accesssory-i...L&modelname=RL

Megatron

This definitely sounds like a switch problem to me. I recently just installed the backup camera option on my 06 and it's not that bad to get into the trunk lid. Two rubber pieces to remove, the light to remove, and then it's just pulling on the felt to get the clips to pop out. It was MUCH MUCH harder getting inside the trim in the trunk itself.

A tip for clips that get torn from the felt when you pull on them. Just super glue them back to their original locations on the back side of the felt. That will be strong enough to stay put when you pop the clips back into the trunk lid and will hold.

Once you get to the trunk switch, yank it out and test for continuity when you press on the switch. My guess is that's the bad part. I still have mine in a box somewhere after removing it for the camera install. It's a dumb two position switch, so you can even use a paperclip to jump the connector in the trunk lid once the switch is out to see if it actuates the latch mechanism.

Chas2

Go to the 2G RL Garage section, and follow csmeance directions, or you could follow the link 037 gave you...

Logic717

As usual, Acurazine is a wealth of information for the DIY'er, I was able to use the rear camera installation instructions from the 2006 Model Year to remove the trunk liner (needless to say I tore a few of the clips from the liner) and the problem was in fact a disconnected switch. It just needed to be plugged in. I'm not sure how that happened, but I'm just glad it was a quick fix that didn't require any money - well other than the superglue to fix the separated liner . After connecting the switch, I was able to verify that the trunk is operating as it should both when the car is unlocked and locked.

Happy day! Now on to the front bumper removal to replace my fog lamp bulbs!

037

glad it worked out ok and didn't even cost you more than super glue. I've noticed RLers are very helpful with DIY

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Nice... good on ya for getting in there and troubleshooting it.

Chas2

Good to hear everything worked out. You know there are DIYs on that one also.

marloc113

Glad that it was a quick fix.

Logic717

Thanks all, not to hijack my own thread, but I'm having some problems with the clips at the bottom of the bumper just not wanting to come out. I'll have to try lifting the front end to get some more leverage.

The trunk fix was just the first step, it's time I start getting more comfortable doing the little things myself and stop thinking the car is so fragile lol