Did you ever determine the cause of the sound at 40mph!? I was concerned about the long term reliability of my 05 RL I bought last year with 98k miles and now it has 108k so I am approaching the timing belt etc maintenance. I searched the forum for transmission and found this post and I took my car out today and I noticed the whining noise at exactly 40mph and I am afraid this is going to be another costly repair. This car has been nothing but a money sink for me ever since I bought it...first the ac compressor, then the condenser, now the Active Front Lighting light is on all the time, and now the WHINING ISSUE! Please advise me on this, I have no warranty and I want to get rid of this car if its going to be another costly repair.

 

Seems like this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=696264&page=2 points to a problem with the rear differential or propeller shaft, I have already spent 3k-4k on this car and I've only put 10k miles on it....I am thinking about cleaning it up and selling it. I had an 05 MDX I sold to buy this car with 140k miles with basically zero problems except regular maintenance (timing belt, brakes, transmission fluid, etc) I should have kept it. Probably won't be considering Acura for whatever I choose next

 

The whining issues documented here are not reliability issues. They are just annoying. As for your AFS light, how old is your battery? The issue is likely a sensor in the wheel well that is pretty cheap to fix.

I hate to say it, but the '05 A/C issue is a well known problem and should have been looked for when buying. How you spent $3-4k on it is mind blowing. I don't think Acura should really be the one to blame for poor decision making.

 

I knew about the ac compressor before I bought it, through research on this forum. I just recently found that the Acura dealership was screwing me on the repair costs..charged me $1600 for the compressor...I replaced the battery 4 months ago and it works fine. I am considering doing the sensor myself..that is a $200 part right? Is the propeller shaft something that is going to need to be replaced, or is that just a noise that I can get used to? I have the timing belt coming up along with all the fluids, water pump, and brakes...I am going to have them check the rear differential with a stethoscope to make sure everything is good there. I also am thinking about a lightweight under pully when they do the timing belt. Should I be expecting any more huge expenses for awhile after I have this taken care of? I am only 18 and need this car to last me the rest of way through college and don't want to be having to look at another $1-2k next year. I've also had it for a year and the car seems to be pretty weak at low rpms...like having to reach 3-4k rpm to actually get going from a stop at a decent acceleration, and if I really need to speed up to merge with traffic it doesn't seem to get much horsepower until I hit 6-7k rpm, is this normal for this car? I usually have to press the car to its full potential at least 4 times a week (rapid acceleration, shifting before redlining) when traffic gets pretty crazy and people won't let your merge or you have to pull out onto a very busy street, is this going to affect the long term reliability of the vehicle or can the car take this kind of harsh use a couple times a week?

 

That price for the sensor sounds like the correct range. AFAIK the whining has no detremental effect on the car. People generally only replace it if it is under warranty and annoying. I play too much music to hear something like that.

Honestly, at any point, you should not expect an expense besides regular maintenance with this car. The '05 is prone to annoying issues, but is also hailed for reliability. I bought Legend #1 @ 114k miles and only had to replace the shocks from normal wear and tear. That was at ~160k, but probably should have been done at 120k. I sold the car 8 years after buying it with 190k miles. These cars run forever.

As for your power issues, this car is underpowered under 3500 rpm. That is where the butterfly valves open up and you get full intake pulling. It sounds to me that you need to change the air filter because the car is not breathing. You car should be fine hitting VTEC a few times a week, but you shouldn't have to. Check the filter.

 

You gotta find a good Honda mechanic like I have. Makes all the difference when it comes to getting it fixed. You really should get an extended warranty with a car like this. As people on this board know, I had a few surprises with my recently purchased RL as well, fortunately it is fine mechanically except for the driveshaft while which I would have never noticed if it weren't for this board. But I got the extended warranty to cover mechanicals for the next 3 years and I'm pretty sure I'll get my money back this time. Last time I got one for a use Pilot and only got back $350 in repairs on a $900 policy. But that's a good thing too if you think about it. See if you can still get a warranty.

 

It seems like I have this same problem. It's like when you hold brake and switch between the gears, there is like this click as if something is engaging. But people say its normal but it doesn't sound normal. Well today when I was changing oil and had my whole front in up in the air, I grabbed the wheels and spun them and I can almost swear that it makes that same click noise. It seems like there is some play I'm the cv joint that goes up into the tranny, but my 2 since there is play in the cv joint, than what happens when you switch into drive is that gears make the wheels want to spin forward and since your holding brake it comes to a quick stop therefore making that click noise.my only question is cluld there be a chance that there is no grease inside the boot and that's why it's so loud? Or could the axel just be wearing out?

 

I'm at just about 105k miles on my 2005 RL and was preparing for the "big" B4 maintenance on the timing belt, etc. when yesterday my transmission appears to have completely died on the side of the interstate. I had the drive shaft replaced in 2008 under warranty. Needless to say, I'm less than thrilled with the latest issues but I'm wondering if anyone else had complete transmission failure that was tied to the drive shaft repair? I had one incident of slipping, where the car rolled backward after I put it in park but the dealership couldn't replicate. I had a transmission flush about a year ago. Debating whether to give up on the thing or rebuild the tranny and go forward.

 

define "completely died"

 

I noticed that the RPM's were really high at highway speed. I tried to accelerate and the RPMs shot up but the car didn't respond. I pulled over to the side of the road and, although it starts, in gear (D or D3) the car doesn't move when I press the gas pedal. Also, my sister happened to be behind me and saw a fair amount of white smoke coming out from behind the car before I pulled over and after I came to a stop, there was a strong burned rubber smell. (As I interpret it). Even the tow truck driver kindly commented on the smell an hour later.

 

Thanks for the detail, are you taking it anywhere for a trouble shooting?

When was your last 3x3 or fluid change?

 

I had it towed to a local Acura/Subaru dealership where I have gone for all the other maintenance and repairs (drive shaft, door handles, recall repairs, etc.) No call from the service team yet.

My last transmission fluid change was about a year ago when I had the Master Cylinder replaced because of the recall.

 

Maybe your differential is bad like mine was and it completely locked up

 

Ouch, that would be bad Mdub.

 

When you say the car doesn't move, do the RPMs move? RPMs have to come from the engine, don't they? My guess is the torque converter.

 

My update from the dealership: a connection to the radiator cracked and all the transmission fluid drained out. His feedback "the good news is you may only have to spend $1,048 on a new radiator." His bad news: "We can't tell if your transmission is toast until we can get it to hold fluid. Cost of the parts for a new tranny are about $5,000." Leave it to an Acura tech to tell me that the "good" news is that I have to spend a grand to find out if I have to spend another $5k!! Oy. And that doesn't include the timing belt maintenance. Still no diagnosis on the loud wind-like whistling I heard yesterday morning during my commute. I chalked it up to a not-closed door. Wrong-o.

 

I'm guessing they're talking about the ATF cooler line on the radiator. OEM radiator is about $600, mines was leaking and I replaced with aftermarket one from 1-800 radiator I think that comes with a lifetime warranty which was about $120.

Although I've never seen or heard that line break on RL's but is a common problem on MDXs. When that happens they will have to inspect the coolant reservoir and the transmission fluid and see if the coolant had mixed with the ATF. If it did mix then they'll have to flush the engine with water and soap and flush the transmission with new fluids until clean. Dealers quote about a 10 hour job on those repairs

You'll be good if the fluids did not mix and just have radiator replaced. If mixed be prepare to spend some cash

 

you can certainly shop around. The radiator itself is 375 here:

http://www.oemacuraparts.com/oem-par.../19010-rja-j53


quick question, did you not notice fluid under the car? or was it to little to see?

 

Or you can get a used one for $80.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RADIATOR-Acu...ce5549&vxp=mtr

Used transmission with 65K miles and 6 month warranty for $1050 shipped to you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-AUTOMAT...eebd2d&vxp=mtr

I would probably go with a new radiator. And if the transmission is bad I would go with a used one.

Spending 4k on a new transmission for a car that is worth 13k is pretty dumb IMO.

 

At least the Acura tech found your issue. You now have the knowledge to make an informed decision. It's not his fault he will only replace the part new at dealer rates and include a warranty.

 

Next step is to find a trustworthy independent mechanic.

 

That was the fluid leaking out and smoking on hot exhaust pipe.
Maybe some mechanic can do a "loop" from hose to by pass the oil cooler and that way test that transmission is working or not, it wont over heat too much and you dont have to buy a cooler just to test it.

 

The aluminum block should avoid any heat at all costs, IMO. Failure to do so can be catastrophic to the gasket. Not saying damage isn't unavoidable, but it would make me nervous.

OP, did the car overheat?

 

Well, if it is only the trans oil leaking out, then the engine cooling will be ok?
I think that it can be tested without heating it so much.

 

They said the radiator is toast, though.

Fixed, cause i needed more coffee.

 

This is my wife's car...

She got the dealer to do the radiator for $280+ labor so hopefully the trans isn't toast. I've honestly had it with this car and even if the trans isn't bad I think we will get rid of it...love the car, hate all the issues.

We also considered having it towed to my shop and fixing the radiator ourselves, but if the trans is bad then we would be paying for a tow twice, and no free loaner.

At least the car still looks like new!

 

I am so confused. What just happened?

 

Lol I have never heard of a radiator cracking on the RL before, so you just got unlucky. I already linked you to a used transmission for about $1,000 with decently low miles.

If you think you are going to find another car that looks as good as the RL for the year it is, with as many features as it has, the quality it has, and for the low price they were selling for used, then good luck.

Your just upset like every other person who has had problems with a car before, another vehicle isn't going to stop this from happening.

 

Fucked if I know... multiple screen names, maybe husband and wife?

Regardless, shit broke, car is clean, wife is hot.

 

 

 

this thread certainly took a turn for the better, although I am confused as well

 

LOL. Sorry guys if I created some cunfusion. My wife told me she created an account and posted about her issue and I was just updating the info for her. Car is done now and they said the transmission is fine. Total cost to replace the radiator was $724.

Not sure what we plan to do yet but we are looking at a '07 Lexus ES350 tomorrow with 65k for $16k.

I'm a big Honda/Acura fan, owned several over the year and currently have a '12 TSX SE myself, but her RL has been nothing but issues, is due for the 105K service, and with the trans running dry on fluid I'd rather just get rid of it now.

Thanks for helping her out though, especially with finding that used trans! That would have been very helpful had it been bad.

Cheers,
Rasky

 

Good luck with the Lex.

 

Good news on the fix and good luck on the next car. I personally think the ES is boring inside and out (except for 2013 ), so I would go for a GS first.

 

GS is except for when the rear trunk lights fade.

 

Wait - let me get this straight. You have a wife that looks like that AND posts on an auto enthusiasts site???

 

 

Yep!

She's learned how powerful these forums can be in finding helpful information.


Update: We picked on the car on the 14th, dealership jacked up the paint when they washed it, even though they were explicitly told never to wash the car! It's even noted in their system and normally I make her put a "do not wash" sign on the dash (I'm a pro detailer BTW...very OCD! )

On the drive home she thought the trans felt odd at times, shuddered a bit in a 30mph zone. I took the car out the next day and it was fine for the most part but occasionally it seemed to hunt for a gear and just made me feel uneasy about it. It could be we're just overly sensitive to the idea of it possibly being bad, but we agreed it was time to trade it in on something else.

We went and test drove the ES350 on Saturday and it was nice, but like noted above, a little boring and it lacked a lot of the features she was used to. I really like the softer leather and cooled seats. She was pretty much set on getting it but the dealership was super busy and couldn't appraise her car for trade in. Rather than wait we went to the Honda dealer (my idea) and looked at some new cars as well. She drives 50+ miles round trip each day and I wanted her to get something that was better on gas and didn't require premium fuel. We test drove a Civic EX-L first and then an Accord EX-L. She previously owned an Accord and misses it all the time. A few miles of driving in the new one and she was hooked. We ended up trading the RL in for the new Accord EX-L Coupe 4cyl w/nav. Granted it's nowhere near the luxury of the RL but it's a good reliable car, gets great gas mileage, has all the features she wanted, and it's under warranty.


Rasky

 

Good choice on the Accord. As far as most are concerned, she made a lateral move.