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2007 60k . So, from reading this thread, https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-2g-rl-878147/, I'm not worried about my engine but is it normal for tranny to die at around 200k? Can you guys whose tranny died chime in and say how often you changed fluid in your ATs? I'm wondering if doing all these 3x3 fluid flushes would extend trannie's life.
No. A 3x3 every 45k miles or a single drain and fill every other oil change (15k) will be more than enough to protect the tranny.
Great, that's what I'll be doing. Have you ever changed filter in the tranny by the way? I'd like to know if it really gets clogged up and after what mileage it's worth changing...
I haven't, but a handful of people here have. It's not worth it IMO. You have to drop the transmission pan, replace the filter and the gasket, and then be very cautious when you tighten the bolts so you don't screw up the gasket. It's not designed to be a replaceable part just like the fuel filter.
Yeah I know it's not the same one, but general discussion can be applied to all transmissions I think. It's important for the transmission filter to be clean. Anyway, I guess if you do regular fluid changes since new then it's not a problem. However, if you buy a used car, you never know if maintenance was properly done hence I'd err on the side of changing it...
SM for our transmission says to check it too...
If it makes you feel any better (it probably won't), my Tundra has a "Lifetime Transmission". It is completely sealed from any outside elements. The only way to change the fluid is to drop the pan. This is only recommended for trucks that do regular heavy towing, and it is only recommended in 200k mile intervals. I like to err on the side of caution, and this was a tough pill to trust and swallow.
The point is that the engineers designed the system with a purpose, and you should follow their recommendations on use unless extreme circumstances occur. The drain plug has a large magnet on the end to capture loose metal shavings. Have you done a fluid change and removed those shavings? I would start there and only resort to a filter change if you feel like the transmission has been compromised or if you feel like your RL has done regular, heavy towing.
Yeah, I follow engineers recommendation all the time. In service manual there is clear section about it:
1. Remove the three 6.0 mm bolts securing the ATF filter cover (A) and ATF pipe (B).
2. Remove the ATF pipe from the ATF filter cover, and remove the ATF filter (C) from the cover. 3. Clean the ATF filter, then check that it is in good condition, and is not clogged. Replace the ATF filter if it is clogged or damaged.
4. Install the ATF filter with the new O-ring (D) in the filter cover, and, install the ATF pipe in the cover, then install them in the transmission housing.
5. Secure the ATF filter cover with the two bolts (E), then secure the ATF pipe with the bolt (F).
It just doesn't specify when to do it. I'll be doing my first 3x3 oil change so figured out it's a good idea to do it now. If filter is clean I'm not planning on doing it anytime soon again. Probably after next 80-100k miles (if tranny won't fail on me sooner ... Still not sure if I'll do it now though!
Do you remember if guys who've done it before shared information about old filter's condition while changing it to a new one? I guess I would skip it if they said that the filter was completely clean after 100k miles.
Just a quickie. Is it a problem if I do 3x3 over a period of 3 weeks? 1 week: 1 drain and fill. I can't see why this would be any problem...
Ive been doing 1 of the 3x3 every 15k, I am under the car doing the oil change every 15k as I use full synthetic, so its just easier to do both the engine and trans at the same time. I dont see any reason to try and to the 3x3 all at once when I have to be under the car every 15k anyways.
A couple weeks ago, I did #2 of 3; my plan is to just do a drain and refill with full synthetic every 15k which will be about every 4.5 months.
I've run a few trans in my days and with a small 4x10" cooler trans temps stay bellow 150-160 max under bearings . My 3.0 cl
Has a temp sensor in the trans case and she stays 130-140 all the time .
I don't understand why "not winter driv[ing]" your car would be the reason to eliminate the cooler. What about people who drive their RL in 105 degrees?
Winter driving the trans would be cold for a while ! Here up north in canada we get -40-50 days so the trans would be cold for a while and shifting is not the best .
What ever your ambient temps are that's the lowest you will get the trans temps to !
I've just done 2 out of 3 transmission oil changes and with the 3rd one I was planning to get to that transmission filter (have already bought it). Funny enough it seems like nobody has done it before in here or I can't search... I have no idea how to get into the tranny in order to get to that filter. SM doesn't say how to get to it. :/. Please help.. .
oo7spy, do you remember someone who's done transmission filter change before? It seems like nobody has ever bragged about it. Not only here, but on the whole Internet!
Hey you cant change the trans filter. Its internal and if you want to change it you are going to have to split the case.
Your best bet is to run a inline filter.
Ill try to take pics tomorrow.
Basicly
Remove the feed line off the pipe that is attached to the front motor mount and that hose will attach to the inline filter. Remove the line off the rad cooler to front tranny cooler and attach to other side of the filter. Attach the filter to the Ground wire off the starter and cap off the two fittings on the Factory rad cooler.
Hey you cant change the trans filter. Its internal and if you want to change it you are going to have to split the case.
That's a shame! I think it's a very poor design. Filter is 25$ itself and you can't easily replace it? It's a joke. I don't see many engines failing in the forums but it's obvious ATs fail more often from reading various threads. This filter is tiny and I'm pretty sure it has to be replaced from time to time. Eat that Acura/Honda :t omato:
I'm not an expert on transmissions, but how much crap can actually get in a transmission? It's pretty much a sealed unit with limited flow of the fluids. Unlike oil, which runs all over the place, is exposed to much higher heat levels and breaks down much quicker. If you change the fluid when you are supposed to, not sure I see why the tranny filter change is needed. The main thing I watch for in the tranny is the drain plug and any metal bits.
oo7spy, do you remember someone who's done transmission filter change before? It seems like nobody has ever bragged about it. Not only here, but on the whole Internet!
I can't say that I have for the RL, but I know I have read people discussing it. I'm sure someone on the 3G TL side has done it. Lots of Tundra owners have done it, and dropping the bottom of the case is the only way because it is completely sealed (not even a dipstick).
If I could get to it from underneath then it wouldn't be a problem but the thing is, you have to take the transmission out to open it up. You can't simply drop the bottom of the case I think. It seems like you can get to it only from the side.
I'm not an expert on transmissions, but how much crap can actually get in a transmission? It's pretty much a sealed unit with limited flow of the fluids. Unlike oil, which runs all over the place, is exposed to much higher heat levels and breaks down much quicker. If you change the fluid when you are supposed to, not sure I see why the tranny filter change is needed. The main thing I watch for in the tranny is the drain plug and any metal bits.
I'm not an expert either but you still get metal bits on the magnet even though it's sealed... I mean, if you don't want to keep the car for as long as possible then it doesn't matter, but if you want it to be one of those high mileage cars with 300k+ miles on it then I'm fairly sure replacing that filter is a good idea at around that kind of mileage or little bit sooner...
Transmissions are a friction operating system guys. So clutch packs wear and the small particles get stuck in solenoid valves and slow them down.
When the trany goes to shift gears and the pressure drops half due to lack of flow you get slipage and the more slipage you get the more material that is shaved off.
So the trans filter gets clogged and the pump starts starving for flow and then the solenoids get plugged up and can not flow.
What the RL does is on WOT shifts they blip the throtle body close so that when the shift happens there is no direct power being slammed on the clutch pack till it is full engauged this makes the RL slower. They also upgraded the clutch packs to more plates and clutchs in all the gears to make it hold the power better. Also these fibers and sit in bearing races/places in the tranny and over time build up and one day get dislodged and make there way to a bearing race and destroy the bearing!!
No offence to the guys saying you do not need to change the filter or put one inline.
Next time you do a Drain ! Drain into a old windshield jug and let it sit for a few days and then poor out untill you get to the bottom and tell me whats left on the bottom. Ive done tons of auto honda and acuras and there is always fibers and metals in the fluids.
Last PCD install i did car had 50,000km on it and owner was like nah honda said fluid is good for another year or so. So i drained it and it was brown with lots of sediments in the bottom.
Here are some pics of a 3.0CL tranny for you to under stand.
We have a solenoid pack on the side of the RL with the same strainers.
JDMCRX, do you think you could do a DIY of how to put that inline filter? I'm reluctant to do it since the car has got so many sensors that can trigger. It seems like it's a quite big modification to the trans fluid flow. How safe is it?
<rant>This car could've been a tank if not for the transmission. This kind of design guarantees transmission failure at higher mileage and I wouldn't buy a high mileage RL anymore. It's not a tank. </rant>
The number of RLs/Legends with over 200k miles with an original transmission filter is higher than the number of RL/Legend transmissions that have crapped out (at least here). If this car isn't a tank, what is?
I don't particularly agree with Honda's recommendation of a 60k mile interval for the first fluid change. If you are concerned about your transmission fluid, change it.
There's a 2G Legend owned by a mod, 4cruizin, that has over 500k miles. I don't remember that filter being easily changed. A member here gave his 2G RL to his nephew at 315k miles and a year later it was still going.
I won't argue the old S-class line wasn't a bunch of tanks, but MB doesn't build them like they used to. Have any modern examples?
I'll admit that the electronics and material durability of the RL are nothing to boast about, but the drivetrain is pretty damn solid. Also, it does take a while to get to half a million miles. For a brand new 2005 RL to get there, it would have to be driven 130 miles every single day. Give it a few years.
MB used to boast that their corporate policy encouraged their enginneers to build to the highest design standards possible on the S-class. It was the epitome of a flagship or even a halo-build all out in lieu of profits on your top car, and people will be drawn to the brand to buy the more affordable models. Sometime in the 90's, this policy changed, and profits became the higher priority. For a good while, the results showed too. It seems recently though that they are trying to balance great engineering and profits enough that their cars are pretty reliable compared to the other German marks.
05-02-2015, 02:29 PM
. So, from reading this thread, https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-2g-rl-878147/, I'm not worried about my engine but is it normal for tranny to die at around 200k? Can you guys whose tranny died chime in and say how often you changed fluid in your ATs? I'm wondering if doing all these 3x3 fluid flushes would extend trannie's life.
... Still not sure if I'll do it now though!
tho, no problem.
