Hey fellas I was trying to find some threads about transfer case fluid change and couldn't find it So I had some questions
-where is the transfer case located and
where is the drain/fill plugs for transfer case
-what is the correct procedure to changing the fluid
-what type of oil is needed for transfer case
Thanks

 

I haven't done it myself, so I can't answer all of the questions. But IIRC, it is located behind the transmission at the drive shaft. Most of our cases have a drain plug on the bottom of one side and a full plug above that. Remove the fill plug first. That way, you won't have an empty chamber if you can't get it off. Then remove the drain plug and let the fluid completely drain. To refill, fill the fill hole up to where the fluid level is flush with the bottom of the hole.

I know for sure that it is an 80w-90 hypoid gear fluid. Any SAE certified fluid should do fine. All of our fluids are listed on the last page of the manual.

 

Do you had to have a pump to pump the oil up from the drain hole until it starts coming out of the top and by that way you will eliminate any air bubbles? I'm assuming there is no room to put a quart of oil comfortably and have the oil drain down...
I changed gear oil on my boat using that technique. Filling it up from bottom up.

 

You'll definitely need a pump, but not sure about the bubble thing. I doubt that matters, since everything's whirring around in there anyways. A lot of gear oil jugs come with a pump top.

 

I've done it myself a couple of times. While a pump would definitely work, you can also just use a tube attached to the bottle and squeeze. I used the Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear oil 75W-90 that you can find at most auto parts stores and it comes in a tallish round bottle that has a narrow pointed top cap. I just pushed a rubber hose on it and then placed the other end in the fill hole. Then a few squeezes until the fluid is coming out the hole and you're done!

 

If you pumped into the drain hole, how would you put the plug back in without it all draining out?

 

Transfercase is located between the transmission to the driveshaft. You will find 2 types of plugs, one drain (located directly on the bottom with a sqaure 3/8" hole) and one fill (same size as the drain)
When I did it, I bought an extra hand pump (like this ) and screw it onto the bottle. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90. Pump it through the fill hole until it starts over flowing, at which you are now at the proper level.

NOTE: Vehicle needs to be as level to ensure proper fill level. I jacked it up on all 4 corners to simulate a level car.

 

Just got maintenance codes A123 at 83k miles, which is oil change, transmission and transfer fluid change and tire rotation. Dealer did transmission fluid when torque converter was replacecd last year so guess I need to do transfer case. Looks like it takes a half quart. I'll us 75-90 Mobil synth.

 

I just did the 3x3 transmission flush and transfer case this weekend. Transfer case is a cakewalk because you don't have to remove the guard to access it. Just be sure to follow 007's advice and remove the fill bolt first. The pump is a must as well.

Here's how I did it:

1) drive front wheels onto ramps ($40 at Walmart)
2) loosen both fill and drain bolts (needed to be on ramps to turn wrench on fill bolt)
3) back down, drain, and refill (need to be on level ground)
4) torque drain bolt and hand tighten fill bolt (be sure washers are on each bolt)
5) drive back up ramps and torque fill bolt
6) done

I had to really squeeze to reach the bolts on level ground, but I'd rather do that than having to jack and level the whole car.

I'll be doing the rear differential(s) flush this weekend, hoping to take a similar approach.

 

Nice, make sure you fill both chambers on the diff.

 

I completed this today. Thanks for the excellent write-up.
Here are some pics I snapped if anyone needs them.

 

Taking my car to a local place tomorrow to change the rear diff and transmission fluids. I bought the recommended fluids from Acura. Should I also be changing transfer case fluid as well? Also, how many hours of labor should I expect to be charged for this job before I get suspicious?

 

With a lift, it's an hour of work, but they will likely charge you two.

 

Even an hour is on the long side of what a shop should be able to do. The diff is a breeze. Getting past the splash guard is the hardest part about the tranny.

 

Alright thanks guys. I was given a ballpark of 1.5 hrs by the guy I spoke to. I'd feel ok with that based on your feedback.

 

Just had the B36 service (126,000) done at the dealer (oil, transfer & diff fluids)....$339.00.

Hate to spend that much but didn't take auto shop in high school...so they have a captive customer.

 

The bottom to this is at least it has been done, and now you have a piece of mind!

 

I am having trouble removing the fill plug. I put the 3/8" socket in the hole but the head of one of the bolts holding the transfer case together makes it so I can not rotate the socket. Do I need a special tool? Did you use a regular socket? Maybe I need to use a short extension to get past the bolt head.

 

I used a 3/8 breaker bar w/o any issues. My socket wrench wouldn't cut it.

 

Hi fellows,
Just a quick question about resetting Maintenance Minder B16 code, will regular engine oil reset do a trick?

 

B16 is engine oil, filter and change of the rear diff fluid. The rear diff, don't mess around (at least I don't), use the fluid Acura recommend only. Hope that helps! Engine oil, any API certified oil with proper drain and fill intervals will do the trick.

 

I agree 100%, the price difference between aftermarket and OEM is penny's so I don't even try.
I am just wondering how to reset the MM, will regular oil reset will take care of Rear Differencial code?
Appreciate advise.

 

Dealer few days back said transfer case fluid is the transmission fluid change. Hate it when they talk out of their asses.

 

Yes

 

The manual says 90 or 80w 90. Why 75w 90? Have you had any issues? 75w 90 GL-5 is definitely easier to find