I'm getting ready to change the rear diff and trans fluid for the first time and have a few questions.

1. In the pic below, C and D are the drain holes and A (hard to see) and B are the fill holes, correct? B looks kind of tight to access.
2. A and D are the differential and B and C are the trans?
3. What is the size of the socket that is used; it's square, is it 1/2"?
4. Both trans and diff use same fluid? ATF I'm assuming. Honda only?
5. Crush washers all the same? Same as are on the oil drain bolt?

Assuming those are the fill holes, I have fluid pump so refilling will be easy. I've done this on my other cars, just not this one.

Thank you

 

seems as though this is all the rear diff and it is a 1/4" socket. Why are there two chambers for rear diff? My truck is 4wd and it only has one chamber.

 

one chamber is diff, the other is clutch pack.
I just looked at mine yesterday after doing the tranny and I believe they are 3/8 ratchet drive plugs. now I need a pump to finish job.

 

I just did the fluid changes this weekend. I believe I used a 3/8 for the Trans and Diff. The oil change washer is different from these 5 washers (4 in Diff, 1 in Trans). ATF-Z1 for everything.

On the rear diff there is a fill and drain near the back of the diff (B, C) and on the drivers side of the diff (A, D). To drain the transmission you have to remove the splash shield over on the front of the car. (I just removed the two bolts and peeled it to one side) The drain bolt will look the same as the others. Just make sure you don't accidentally drain the transfer case. that's a different fluid (unless of course you plan on doing that change as well).

It takes about .8QT to fill the back of the rear diff and 3.2 QT for the front of the rear diff (4QT total) and it takes roughly 3QT to do the transmission.

To refill I went to pepboys and bought a pump with a flex hose. The tip had a weight and spout. The weight fit right into the holes for fill and the spout fit perfectly in the trans fluid dip stick check. Pumping is annoying but it'll be the cleanest way to get the job done.



Since I didn't know the specs of the crush washers I just cleaned them off and reused. Been about 50 miles so far no leaks.

Also another reason I'm never going back to the dealer is when I tried to drain my oil they really tightened that bolt! My Snapon impact couldn't even remove it. I had to get a breaker bar for that.. it was crazy.

 

Make absolutely sure you fill all of the rear diff chambers.

 

For the rear diff use Acura AWD fluid (DPSF). Part #: 08200-9007A.

 

I've read somewhere they changed the fluid to the later part.

 

This was a changeover done for 2011 models. And now they're saying everything should be switched over to the new fluids?

When I drained my diff it was ATF-Z1 as the new diff fluid is "caramel colored". When I did my change too my friend thought it was weird I'm using such a light fluid for the diff. I drove my RL in Chicago weather and have had no issues with the ATF-Z1 and I'm at 70K miles.

I think they're just phasing out the use of ATF-Z1 and making the change over. but you do replace the fluid with what you're comfortable with.

 

So are the service guys saying to use the new ATF fluid? Does anyone know if there is a difference?

 

I called my local Honda service agency about servicing our RL since they have a former Acura tech on staff and specifically asked if they had the new fluids. The service writer said they have the new stuff. I figured if this is what is recommended then put the stuff in. If it fails due to the fluid, it goes back on the dealer/Honda/Acura to fix it. This is one of the few items I will let the dealer for us is change fluids as it is easier on me.

 

In my original post, the pic shows just the rear diff, my mistake. Where is the transmission drain bolt located on the car, it is under one of the plastic shields? Can I just drain it and fill it through the dip stick tube and how much does it use?

 

Did you read my post?

You have to remove the splash shield. You can get away with just removing the two bolts and 2 snap off tabs furthest from the front. You can peel the shield back to expose to drain bolt. It will look just like the rear diff drain bolts. The fill is hard to access so I recommend putting everything through the dipstick. If you have a funnel that will fit that's great, I used a pump. 3QT's ATF-Z1 to fill the trans.

 

I must say it is easier to have them do it if you don't have the right tools. But after my experience with Acura breaking the tabs and not replacing and over torquing my oil drain bolt and filter I'm just going to do it myself of a peace of mind.

I would estimate by doing my own oil change (M1 Synthetic / K&N filter), cabin filter, engine filter, rear diff, and 3x3 trans change I saved myself $500 in charges and it cost 3 hours of a Saturday morning. But the best part of it is I know the job got done right.

 

sorry, missed that one, thanks for the reply!

 

as of 10/15/2011, acura of bridgwater advised:

4 qts of ATF DW-1 for a 2005 acura rl part #08200-9008 and 4 qts for the rear diff (yes 2 chambers) of AWDF (DPSF) PART # 08200-9007A.

I didnt check about the transfer case. damn! anyone know what the transfer case takes?

 

On the back of the AWDF (DPSF) bottle it says
2010 models and prior: This fluid replaces the ATF in all AWD differentials calling for ATF-Z1.

For 2010 models and later, use this fluid in all AWD differentials calling for DPSF.

 

Transfer take about 1/2 qt of hypoid gear oil 90W or GL-5 rating. Personally, I used the Mobil 1 Synthetic hypoid gear oil 75W-90 (this is ok)

Just wondering, how much do you fill your transmission fluid? On the service manual, it says 3, but I drain out 3.5 ish.

 

i just drained trans, ya about 3.5 qts, i am guessing becuase of the trans cooler that the RL has, plus if there is any in the lines, etc.

the drain plug magnet had a ton of crud on it. not sure what the best place is to fill the trans. is there a top mount speed sensor like the MT of the rsx?

 

the dipstick for the trans is tiny. i dont have a funnel that long or small. FML

 

Why not try the fill blot? It's kind of low, but it's possible to reach with a long wrench and a funnel with a long tube neck.

 

thanks, ill try that from the bottom. working on the car at the shop now.

 

Not sure what you mean by trying that from the bottom..But it says "ATF" on the blot when looking down on it from the engine bay, it's sort of near the fuse box.

 

oh, i misunderstood you, i thought there was a filler bolt that was accessible when the car was all the way up on the lift. your saying the bolt is right on top of the trans. cool

 

ya, the big and goofy bolt is a 17mm. needed that socket, and a long extension with a breaker bar as it was tight as can be. thanks again.

 

No prob! Glad I was able to help.

 

I'm about ready to do the trans fill. Can you just fill to the top of the fill hole (17 mm cap reachable under the fuse box) ? Or do you have to carefully monitor the dipstick reading while refilling ?

 

I bought a hand-held pump that attaches to the quart bottle and pumped it in through the dipstick hole.. Super easy. It's a small opening though, which is why you need the pump with a tube.

 

I've got a very nice cylinder / piston pump - no way I'm doing two hundred hand soap pumps per quart !

Anyway, going in through the dip stick tube becomes a real pain if you have to unhook and use the dipstick multiple times to get the level right. In a perfect world - filling the 17mm hole to the top should be the perfect level. That's my question anyway...

 

I do not believe I came any where near the top of that fill hole. You will need to put in roughly 2.9 quarts. I had to put in 3 full quarts.

The way to check your level is with the dipstick. However, you can only gauge your level at operating temperature. When cold, the level will be roughly 1/2 of the range above "full".

 

excellent
thank you

 

Changed oil, transmission (3x), and transfer case yesterday @ ~47K miles.

Trans and case fluids were very clean and nothing stuck to the magnetic plugs, guess that means the previous owner took care of these at least once. Breaker bar required to loosen the plugs but just one handed was enough.


Trans refilled through the top plug labeled "ATF" easy with a magnet tool, trans funnel/hose, and a universal joint extension (to put the fill plug back in). Just needed a couple old mechanic tricks to do the job. And some cussing at the big one-piece plastic shield under the trans.

A bit of a hazard taking the 4 jack stands off to get the car back on the ground: jacking up the left/right front sides to individually remove the front jack stands caused the car's rear to shift ever so slightly. Lowering it without rechecking the rear jack stands would have been bad as one did not maintain its alignment with the frame cross member as the front sides went up and then back down to earth.

Overall an easy but time consuming job that leaves several gallons of recycle fluid to deal with.

Only surprise was that the used and new GL5 fluid did not stink bad as in the old days. That stuff used to be awful and would stink up clothes and skin forever.

 

That shield is the only reason I didn't do a 3x3 last time.



You did drive it between fills; correct?

 

I remember when RL's were owned by people who would make an appointment online for their service, take it to the dealer, wait in the leather upholstered seats drinking cappuccinos, doing business on the free wi-fi while they finished washing your car.
It seems that the only attrubute of DIY is that the new fluid doesn't stink as bad as it used to.

 

You mean people with more money than sense or free time?










...or maybe I should say more credit than sense.

 

You can buy a lot of cappuccinos (and maybe a leather upholstered seat or two) for the money you save by doing routine maintenance yourself instead of taking it to the dealer.

 

It's a good idea to get underneath and look around once in a while.
It's also good to know that the right amount of the right stuff went into the right gears.

You know who does this level of work back in the dealer shop don't you ? They are on drugs, and tired from the all night party, and the boss has 6 more for them to do when yours is done.

 

I just did my first of three flushes last night. I'm giving it 1 day between so I can be sure to drive through each gear a few times.

I picked up this great little funnel at walmart to fill the new fluid through the dipstick. It attached directly to the ATF fluid bottle, and doesn't require any pumping. I just stabbed a hole in the bottle after a few glugs to help the fluid drain faster. Each bottle emptied in about 60 seconds.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/FloTool-Tr...Spout/16889149

 

thats cool, I make one out of a rear diff spout top and a hose.