This is my first time on the Acura RL to change these. I read the threads here about using Acura brand oils, so I went to the dealership...and now I know why you all call it a stealership! I paid $178 for the fluids and washers, but at least I got the right parts easily. As far as I know, these fluids in my car have never been changed, so I am in a hurry to get this done, but you can use these parts to get what you need online and save over $50.

Here is what they sold me:
Oils:
08200-9008A ATF DW-1
08200-9007A DSPF AWD
08200-9014A HGO-1 GL-5 75W-85 (gear oil - $19 a bottle, ouch!)
Washers:
94109-20000 Washer
90221-PK4-000 Washer
90471-PX4-000 Washer

The ATF is obviously for the transmission, and the DSPF is obviously the differential fluid. He said the gear oil is for the transfer case, which is
beside the transmission. I am still a little confused because I thought the transfer case was the other drain on the side of the differential. Can anyone add some clarity on this subject?

 

The transfer case is indeed near the transmission. The rear differential has two chambers, two drain plugs and two fill plugs. Both get the DPSF.

A quick Google search shows that $19/qt for 75W-80 hypoid gear oil is actually a good price.

 

Do a search. LOTSA threads on this one!


Also download the manual. It has great pics and step-by-step instructions.

 

I see two drain holes on the tranny, and only one fill hole. I really need a pictorial, since. I've searched many times and don't see any pictures. I assume you fill the transfer case from underneath, and there is a fill bolt in the engine compartment for the tranny fluid--but where?

 

The fill hole for the tranny is under the fuse box, it's a PIA to access. I fill it through the dipstick hole using a transmission funnel. The drain for the tranny is toward the front, about center, need to remove the plastic shroud. Two chambers for the diff, two fill holes and two drain holes. Always crack the fill bolts first! Can't remember offhand where the transfer case is, but I think it's upfront toward back of tranny.

 

Okay, I got it all done. I filled the tranny through the dipstick, by using a tiny funnel, and a larger funnel inside that. Worked perfect, and, I didn't need to use that "2000" washer, which costs $5. I also only needed one quart of gear oil on the transfer box, so I will return two quarts ($40).

I can't see ever using more than one quart of gear oil for the transfer case, since it is so small. So next time I would order online as follows:
(4) 08200-9008A ATF DW-1
(4) 08200-9007A DSPF AWD
(1) 08200-9014A HGO-1 GL-5 75W-85 (gear oil - $19 a bottle, ouch!)
Washers:
(1) 90221-PK4-000 Washer
(6) 90471-PX4-000 Washer

 

One thing concerns me. The fluid that I dranked out of my transmission was honey colored--like dirty gear oil. But the original ATF-Z1 should've been red. Even the new ATF-DW1 is red. After I turned the engine on and checked the ATF dipstick, of course it had turned from red to brown as the old and new fluids were combined by the pump. So I think Imdedinitely need to do the ATF "flush" (change the fluid 3x in a row) to get the old fluid replaced.

The former owner of my care was Vitor Remera, the Indy Car driver, so I can't imagine he would've put gear oil in the transmission. So hopefully it was just some special brand or something. Anyways, I did blow my #3 tranny sensor a while back, and the new ATF-DW1 fluid is supposedly meant to prevent this exact problem, so I'll still do the flush.

Comments, suggestions?

 

Probably an aftermarket synthetic ATF. I would continue with the 3x3 plan as long as it is done correctly (running every gear and locking the TC in 5th between drains).

 

I did a lot more searching, and found some posts here claiming Honda's ATF-z1 fluid loses its red tint after time (similar to modern Mopar ATF), and brown color is normal. It probably just means it hasn't been changed in a long time, which I already knew. I'm definitely going to do the 3x3. I'll pick up eight more quarts of DW-1 tomorrow. I read to just change it with each oil change, but instead I think I'll do it with the next to gas fill ups to speed things along.

Thanks for help everyone! This was not nearly as difficult as I had expected, after doing the same tasks on an F150. My breaker bar couldn't fit in some locations, so I used a pipe over the handle of the regular socket wrench for the win. Worst issue I had was spilt oil on my driveway. Gorilla ramps worked great BTW (not worried that car wasn't level).

 

I am bumping this just because I just found out the current ATF is not compatible with rear differential. It says ATF on the differential but that was back when Honda made ATF-Z1 which is no longer available. The current ATF-DW1 is not compatible and shouldn't be used. The 08200-9007A DSPF AWD is the correct fluid now. I am glad I stumbled upon this thread!

 

Yup - and Acura DSPF is a different colour to the Honda one for CR-Vs and the like so probably isn't the same! It's very confusing.

We get special-order ATF-Z1, as Acura DSPF isn't sold over here, just to make things more confusing still!

 

Is this all you used to change & refill on first go round?

 

Yup. Then I did two more ATF refills to purge the bad fluid (what came out the third time appeared normal red color).

 

It's really amazing how much Honda thinks they can charge for dye. The part numbers are identical with exception to the "A" for Acura. Thus, the fluids are identical with exception to the dye for Acura.

Do I have proof? No, but I'm willing to bet your rear differential.

 

Thx for info was helpful

 

are you changing the transmission filter everytime you do one of the 3x3 changes?

 

I'm looking to have my tranny fluid changed since I'm not too impressed with how the car is shifting. I think I'm close to 80K now and it wouldn't surprise me if the fluid has yet to be changed. I've read several threads on here about this 3x3 drain & fill method which is what I want done. My question is will I need to have the transfer case and differential fluid changed at the same time? I'm looking just to improve the shifting so I'm just hoping changing the tranny fluid will be enough. I'm also really considering going to the dealer for it because I just don't have the time now. And trust me... if I have the dealer do it, I'll be staying there to see that they actually do the work 3x3 work correctly. And one more question, what does "locking the torque converter" mean? I read this is necessary when doing the drain & fill on your own.

 

The transfer case, diff, and tranny are all separate and can all be done at different times without issue. Inside an AT torque converter, the fly wheel almost always spins faster than the gear. This is why ATs don't stall out. There is some amount of power lost in this process that can be gained back by locking the torque converter when the gear can reliably spin at the same speed as the fly wheel. This happens in 5th gear only for cruising purposes. You can tell it engages and locks when you are in 5th gear and you feel or see the RPMs dip as if there is another gear or overdrive. It only happens at steady load and will not lock if you are accelerating.

 

How long do you own this car? did you just get it? I mean diff fluid change is recomended every 15k miles. If you do not have previous maintenance records change all ASAP

 

Diff fluid changes are recommended by the MID. I could be mistaken, but the manual claims 30k mile intervals for extreme cases like a desert environment or towing. It is certainly not 15k. That's every other oil change.


And he's had the car for a while. He had his before I crashed mine in March '13.

 

Checked the odometer today and the car has just over 80K. I intend on stopping by the dealer tomorrow before work and see if they offer the 3x3 transmission service. I just want to see and hear what they have to say when I bring it up. I should be able to tell if they are feeding me a load of crap if they say they offer the service. I hope they offer it (and actually do it) and if not I'll just do it own my own.

 

Doing it without a lift can be a pain in the ass because of the splash guard that blocks the tranny drain plug. If you do it yourself, I recommend only doing it once, and following up every other oil change or the next two if you are really concerned.

Of course, there is no harm in doing it all yourself, but it is a rather tedious process without a lift.

 

I don't find it to be that bad. The underbelly plastic is a bit if a pain (hate those stupid clips), but I use a skinny longer funnel and pull the plast down enough to get the funnel in there, no issues. You have to jack the car for an oil change anyway. I change transmission fluid every oil change for three oil changes by just draining it and filling with 3 quarts, then skip it after the fourth oil change and start it up on the fifth. The pain about the job is accessing the fill bolt below the fuse box. I gave up on that and use a transmission funnel to fill it through the dipstick, much easier.

 

Well I'm not all too surprised by the reaction I got this morning when I went to the dealer hence the reason why I did not want to talk over the phone. Just a little background info, I'm basically considered a "transplant from NY" as the locals here in the state of Delaware say. Since moving down here I learned that some of these folks (at least when it comes to car mechanics) seem to be a little backwards. So I tell the guy that I'd like to have a transmission fluid DRAIN & FILL done using the 3x3 method. I got a dumbfounded look and he asked what was 3x3. I fully explained to him what that entails (thanks to you guys here on the forum ) and then said he knew what I was talking about. Then he asked me why don't I just do a transmission flush. Wait...what? Right there I knew I was not going to have them touch my car. This guy knew the mileage I have on the car because he pulled my info up and he suggested that I get a tranny flush done. I told him that my car has 80K and I'm not risking doing damage to the tranny by doing a flush. Then he tells me that they can do the 3x3 and charge me 3x for the standard price of the work which would be a total of $359. So I was like peace see ya later! So what are my choices now I asked myself. I will try the local Honda dealer first and if a no go then I'll call up another Acura dealer in Pennslyvania in my neighboring state. It'll be an extra 15 minute drive for me but I've been to that dealer before and have a better feeling that they know what they are doing. I'll still grill them a bit on the 3x3 flush lol. If all else fails I'll just suck it up and DIY this project like most other things I've done to my cars. Just wanted to share my experience with gang here.

 

I want the dealer to handle the 3x3 and from there I'll do the typical drain & fill in 15k increments.

 

I wonder what he meant by "flush". A machine flush has always been ill advised on a Honda transmission, and the dealers usually know that. I would be completely shocked if they regularly use a machine at a Honda or Acura dealer.

 

Oh yeah he definitely mentioned the "m" word as in using a machine to perform the flush. I wasn't surprised that they didn't offer the 3x3 but I was shocked that he said to use a machine to flush out all the fluid. No thanks buddy.

Both the other Acura and Honda dealers I called said that they do not perform the 3x3. Ended up stopping by the Honda dealer and grabbing a case of fluid and washer. Screw it I'll just do it on my own.

 

So 9 bottles of the atf right (3x3?) Bout the for then transfer case?

 

I think the tranny drains 3.8 qts, so you need 12 by the book. Many, including myself, found it to be a little less, so 11 would probably do for most cases.

 

https://pictures.dealer.com/sunnysid...%2012%20RL.pdf
Here's a simple service schedule for 2005-2012 RLs. Acura recommends the rear differential fluid be replaced every 15 to 30k. Acura also recommends the transmission and transfer fluid to be replaced every 20 to 40k. My RL is 4 years old, and has 35,000 miles on the ODO. Do these items really need to be addressed as soon as Acura states. I've owned a 2005 RL since it was new, sold it in 2013. I never once did the transmission/ transfer/ or rear diff. fluid once on the 2005. On my 2011 I replaced the brake fluid last year. Do I really need to replace any of these fluids.

 

If you follow the MID, I think your car will be okay. IIRC, the 2005 manual says 60k for the first transmission change and 30k after for extreme cases. I felt the 60k was a little long, so I changed it at around 40k.

Sometime down the road, I learned my Tundra has a "lifetime" transmission which is completely sealed and designed to not have the fluid changed. Suddenly preventative maintenance became a major hassle. I also totaled my RL at 59k, so I bet I could have done just fine without ever changing its fluids. Do you NEED to change it?

 

I'm coming due for a trans fluid change myself so I contacted my local dealer (Park Ave Acura, Maywood NJ) to see how much they charge for either the one drain and fill or the 3x3 and I was told "We only offer the drain and fill anymore, Acura will no longer warranty the trans if the 3x3 is performed"

 

What? What's their reasoning for it? Is it bad for transmission or what?

 

He didn't say.

 

He didn't know what the hell he was talking about. A 3x3 is a drain and fill. Done 3 times.

If you like to be fed bullshit, the dealer has the best buffet in town!

 

My guess was that someone in accounting figured out that a 3x3 @ $199.99+ performed when the MID specified was not as profitable as a flush and fill @ $129.99 performed every two years. That is what they told me how often the trans fluid had to be replaced.

 

Never ever listen to a service writer. One time, a service writer told me my RL had a CV transmission.

 

It just pays to be an educated consumer especially when it comes to vehicle maintenance/service because many places have no problem ripping you off and feeding you nonsense. In my case I ended up having to take my car to Honda to do the first drain & fill since I did not have the leverage to loosen the drain bolt. After I left the dealer I went home and was able to do the remaining two drain & fills to complete the 3x3.

 

Just changed out the oil & filter, transmission fluid, transfer case fluid, and differential fluid on my RL last night.

Took me about 2.5 hours to do everything. Most time consuming part was gaining access to the trans drain bolt since you have to remove part of the shield. For the AT trans filler bolt, the easiest way to loosen it is to remove the two L&R (10mm) screws from the fuse box then use a long extension and break it free. Then use a funnel with a tube attached to it to fill.

I have 36k on my RL but being that my car is 8 years old I figured I would change it out. I only did the 1x3 so I will do it 2 more times about 1k mile apart each time.

Shout out to Indytodd for gathering the part numbers.

 

I never bother with the fill bolt under fuse box, attach the fiunnel to the dipstick fill tube and fill it that way. You can wrap tape around the base of the funnel ,join it to the dip tube, much easier.