Just purchased a 2006 RL with 91,000 miles. I don't have a clue as to what oil was used. Should I go conventional or synthetic?

 

it doesnt really matter.

Most Synthetics are just blends of conventional oil.
the chemistry and make up of oil has come a long way. you'll be able to switch between the two and not have any ill effects.
also, this leads to longer oil change intervals.
if you follow the MID on the dash, you'll get 6-7k mile intervals.

 

 

Been using Mobil 1 no issues.

 

Agree with Justin here. Doesn't matter what you use. If you change on the correct interval, the engine will last longer than the rest of the car. Depending on where you live, a 5w-30 or a 0w-20 may give you better protection than the 5w-20 factory recommendation.

For every oil answer in the world, google, "bob is the oil guy".

 

Been using Motul 5W30 full synthetic since I have the car, no issues at all. Engine sounds like new.

 

^nice!
I'm using Redline 5w-30. It's also a full synthetic.

 

^
I used Redline ATF in my 2Gen TL. U can feel the difference in shifting, its a good oil. I guess I'll use it again in my RL when I'll do the tranny.

 

Didn't think it would matter. Used plain Pennzoil on my 1994 Accord EX. Traded it in with 308,000 miles no issues. I'm just hoping this RL will be as dependable as the Honda!

 

If you use the cheapest brand out there then the cars engine will still outlast the rest of the car. Using synthetic oil is like using premium gas when you only need regular - there is no benefit but there is an additional financial burden.

 

Here's my opinion. While regular petroleum oil is OK if you change it at the recommended frequencies why not spend a few bucks more and give your expensive engine the best treatment it can get. I can get Mobil 1 on sale for about $5 per quart. Synthetics will keep all those little oil passages clear that are so critical in today's engines. Also spend a little more on a filter (like Purolator Pure One). Those are my thoughts. However I will admit that my recently purchased 06 RL with 106K has used conventional oil and the engine looks very good internally.

 

this just contradicted your whole opinion....

as mentioned; most synthetics are blends anyway.

 

Nothing wrong with conventionals. My Camry is on conventional oil, and has been since day 1. Regular 3k oil change intervals, with 250k miles on it. When the valve covers were popped off about 20K ago, the valvetrain looked almost brand spanking new, courtesy of a good detergent package and regular intervals.

With my RL, I'm running it on Mobil1 synthetic. I stuck with synthetic just because that's what the previous owner did. I'll have to see what the engine looks like at 250k.

I guess my point is, stick to your intervals and you're good no matter what. BITOG has a wealth of information on this topic. It's my go to place with any such question.

 

My limited understanding of the topic goes like this (and yes, BITOG is the authority):

•Conventional oils have improved a lot, and now have some properties of a synthetic blend.

•Meanwhile, the purity of the definition of "synthetic" has been polluted. If I remember correctly, this was because of one greedy company (Castrol?) winning a court fight to call their product "full synthetic" even though it was in fact "hydrocracked," which is a derivative of conventional oil molecularly modified to improve its performance. Most synthetic-brand oils are made from hydrocracked stock now. It's better than conventional, but not as good as original synthetic was. Amsoil is a conspicuous exception that still uses pure synthetic stock as its base.

•All that said, any oil that's labeled full synthetic has one decisive advantage over conventional: consistent viscosity in extreme heat and cold. Most of your engine wear will occur in these two situations. In extreme heat, stop and go driving can make conventional oil break down so it's too thin. In midwinter after a cold start, it can be too thick to pass through small passageways and reach the areas it needs to protect. Synthetic excels in these conditions. I live in a continental climate -- cold winters, hot summers -- so I use it. But that's just me.

Bottom line: All brand name oil is SAE approved (Society of Automotive Engineers, I believe), which means it meets the criteria of the people who designed your engine. As the others said, change it often enough and you're reasonably safe.

 

The main reason I use synthetic is because I am lazy and have trouble finding the time to get under a car and change the oil. I only ever change my own oil, too. Synthetic allows me to go 10k safely between changes.

The next two reasons don't hold nearly the weight of number 1 because these will only affect an engine looking to achieve 1M miles. 1) Conventional uses wax and impurities to achieve viscosity. Pure synthetics don't. 2) Synthetic flows colder and holds together hotter than conventional.

Amsoil and Red Line are the purest readily available synthetics. Mobil1 and Royal Purple, while better than anything other than the purest, tend to sheer faster in the worst conditions. Once again, this is only a concern for race cars or engines looking to outlast the rest of the car.

 

So we got an RL in July.. at 56K miles.. we now have 61k and the oil life is at 20pct.. It's time for an oil change soon.. Do you recommend a synthetic oil change? and if so, what oil is the best? Also, does the RL use a special filter that only Acura dealers carry? New to the RL, so please let me know guys!

Thanks

 

I use the old oil i drain out of customers cars.

 

20% is a long ways away, jus an FYI... and no I use dino oil.

 

I don't think this is quite accurate.

It would be more accurate to say the reverse, though: performance standards for conventional oils have been raised so dramatically, most conventional oils have some synthetic blended into them.

I won't argue with those here who say that conventional oil, changed diligently with a good quality oil filter, is dependable for the life of your engine. I will say that for Type 1 characters like me, I feel reassured that synthetic oil performs better in the conditions that cause the most engine wear: extreme heat and extreme cold.

As for weight, I recommend 0W-20 for most conditions, 5W-30 for Arizona or thereabouts. You want that low winter weight number so the oil is thin enough to pass through your engine's smallest passages in the moments after a cold winter start, when a great deal of engine wear occurs with inferior oil before the oil reaches the scene and goes to work.

 

Change cars pretty often, eh?

 

All Hondas from lowly Civic hybrids to the flagship RL use the same filter. Should be a 110 in the size name. Please get a brand name so that it is not made with paper that can breakdown and get into the oil.

I'm not sure you read the thread because you are asking which is recommended. The verdict is out. I personally use synthetic so that I don't have to change as often (10k+ miles). You should be able to find it cheap enough (i.e. Wal-Mart) that the extended life neutralizes the increased cost. However, there is nothing wrong with conventional if you change every 7k miles.

Amsoil is the best synthetic on the market, but you can't find it in stores. Red Line is 2nd best followed by Mobil1 & Royal Purple.

For your location in NJ, I would second Tony on suggesting a 0W-20, especially going into winter. You will find that you can only get 0W in synthetic though. The initial cold start-up is generally the most critical to engine wear since most engines will not see the dramatic extremes of high heat.

I have to disagree with the first sentence. North of Kansas City, 0W-20 is good. Anywhere south of there, 5W-20 is plenty coverage enough. For AZ to Florida, I wouldn't run less than a 10W. While a 5W-30 and a 10W-30 both meet the SAE requirement of a 30 weight at high temperature, that requirement is a range, and the 5W will be at the lower end of the range compared to the 10W. 10W covers down to 0 degrees F. If the South sees that temperature, the roads aren't safe to drive on anyway. Cold starts here are the exception, not the rule.

 

A reasoned answer, I'll admit.

 

I spend a lot of time on Rennlist, a site like this one for Porshces. You wanna get a debate going? Ask those guys, "Which oil is best?"...then stand back.

Same here I guess. FYI Porsche factory fills with Mobil 1 (15W-50)and recommends 15,000 mile changes, or yearly changes if not driven that far.....go figure.

 

no just oil