I have a 2007 RL that I purchased last summer. Today I attempted to replace the front brake pads.

I was able to compress the two "outboard" pistons fairly easily using the old pad and a pair of pliers. However, the two "inboard" pistons wouldn't budge at all, even when using a c-clamp. Removing the brake fluid reservoir cap and loosening bleeder valve didn't help. I assumed maybe the caliper was stuck, so I moved on to the other front wheel... exact same issue.

So, do I have two bad calipers or am I (hopefully) just doing something wrong / stupid?

I've only done a handful of brake jobs in the past (Honda/Acura), but they have all been straightforward.

 

Silly question, but I don't want to ignore the easy answers. Are you sure the piston isn't already compressed? Do the caliper and pads fit on the rotor as is?

 

Fair question... I assume the inboard pistons are supposed to compress so that they are flush with the caliper housing (same as the outboard pistons). If that's the case, they are definitely not already compressed. Even if I could get the inboard pads out (I can't), there wouldn't be enough room to fit new pads in.

 

So the caliper isn't off the rotor yet?

 

is rust preventing the piston to move freely?

 

No, still on the rotor. I was only replacing the pads, so I didn't think it was necessary to remove the caliper (following the service manual).

I guess the next step is to pull the caliper and see if I can apply more force to compress the pistons. How much force is too much? Can I damage them?

 

If you had stuck calipers your car would not drive correctly. You would hear the pads rubbing against the rotor with your foot off the brake, the car would pull one way or the other when driving, and/or your rotors would get extremely hot and likely warp. Put the old pads back in and pump the brakes a few times to see if that unsticks a them. It should not take excessive force to compress the pistons.

 

I'd remove the calipers & use plenty of brake cleaner under the rubber boot & around the seal. Then try again with your G-clamp. They might give suddenly.

Honda calipers are designed to be rebuild every four years for the Shaken test and they think we are crazy for not doing that. Consequently, they're always bloody seizing.

 

Be sure that you press the piston straight in, if its not going in straight it will stuck.

 

I pulled the calipers off yesterday. The inboard pads (on both sides of the car) were so bound in the clips that they were preventing me from compressing the inboard pistons. Once the old pads were out, the pistons compressed just fine.

With new pads and rotors, the braking is fantastic.

 

You need Impact driver with 3mm hex and in 99% this screws will lose. and you can buy on ebay new kit for rl calipers if you use this part number 45023-sja-305

 

Whew Eugen you are a little late on this one... good info, but check the dates before posting.