Toppatop

so the other day my SHAWD light came on and i immediately rushed to the dealer. They told me it was the throttle body that needed recalling, so blindingly, I paid the $600+ to have it replaced. before I even picked up the car, I get a call from the dealer stating the SHAWD light is still activated and after 24 hours of diagnostic, I just received a call which they told me the rear differential needs to be replaced and the cost would be approximately $9000.

does any one know what would cause the differential to go bad and how can one really know if that truly is the problem, I feel like the dealer is just grasping at straws.

oo7spy

First, the SH-AWD light will come with a diagnostic code. You may be able to get this from the navigation screen. Otherwise, demand the dealer run the codes with an HDS and tell you all of them.

MattW found a hole in his rear diff one day. All of the fluid had drained, and the diff was toast. IIRC, he found a used one and had it installed for less than a grand with no reported issues after. Don't buy a new diff.

sOLLEx

Was the CEL on as well? I would suggest talking to the dealer and asking for your money back and take it somewhere else. What excuse could they possibly give you to get you to pay for a $600 t-body repair that did nothing to fix your original complaint. I would demand a refund immediately. Honestly, throttle bodies on J series engines really never go bad and unless you had a running problem with a CEL on, I don't see what their rationale would have been for replacing that. Now as far as the rear diff is concerned, I would get the SH-AWD DTC message in your navi and give us a crack at it. More than likely, your SH-AWD control unit or rear diff oil pressure sensor is defective. I'm not saying that after "24 hours" of diag they got it wrong but after they burned you for $600 already, I would want a second opinion....If it so happens you need a diff I'll sell you one I got laying around in the garage for a lot less!

Toppatop

the only light that came on was the shawd. I am pretty sure it may be the control unit as i researched and discovered they have discontinued the one that came with my car for a newer part number. they also did not give me any error codes,


what is cel?

sOLLEx

(CEL) Check Engine Light....you can easily get that code as long as the light is on or even off and it is still stored in the navi. If they had 24 hours to diag a rear diff they have the code etched into their little brains and should give it to you. Honestly I would get my money back and go somewhere else before this turns into a free for all on your credit card.

Toppatop

thats I'm afraid of "the free for all on my card" the engine light was not on just the SHAWD light came on and stayed lit. they even gave me some crap about calling Acura special tech and they recommended the replacement of the rear diff.

sOLLEx

Yeah I mean, there is a troubleshooting tree based on the code you have. The problem could be in one half of the Diff and it is not serviceable so you would have to replace it as a unit. Just get us the code and we'll try to help.

Toppatop

i will get the code when i pickup the car tomorrow. what exactly is the code called so i don't sound like an idiot when asking. I atlas want to sound like i know what I'm talking about. thanks

sOLLEx

Just ask them for the diagnostic trouble code that they scanned when they hooked up the HDS. It should be in the paperwork they give you as well. You know the messages that pop on your navi screen? When you cycle the key on and there is a fault in any system, there will be a diag message that pops on your navi screen. There is a way to get that code from the hard drive. If they don't give you the code, let me know and i'll show you how to pull it.

Toppatop

i will let you know tomorrow around 1pm eastern time

Toppatop

Ok, so I woke up early and went to the dealer )30 minutes drive) only to be told they are trying to convince the after market warranty I purchased to cover the fix (Auto Protection). Now I have to wait until their inspector comes to evaluate the situation.

As far as obtaining th error code, the service rep claimed she does not know the code because the "tech" who was working on the car is off today. Some reason I feel like I'm being jerked around.

For now, I'll just wait for Monday to see what happens with the warranty company. At least for now I can enjoy the 2015 TL loaner with only 105 miles. By the way the original code I was getting before I ever went to the dealer was the P0123. I don't know if another code popped up after they cleared that one.

sOLLEx

Well that is a powertrain code for the throttle position sensor A which is built into the throttle body which may have been why they diagnosed a throttle body. You said your CEL was off when you went in and just the SH-AWD light was on?

Toppatop

That is correct the ESL was not on. Just SHAWD

sOLLEx

I could see where the powertrain code may have put the SH-AWD into limp mode and set a code and cause it to go into FWD status, which is normal. Maybe it just so happened that you have been having issues with both considering you said you knew it had a P0123 stored which has nothing to do with the SH-AWD system. Either way, if you can get the repairs covered under ext. warranty, good for you! They will have to show the inspector how they concluded the rear diff has a fault. Most certain they would put a used diff in. Good luck.

TampaRLX-SH

What I find missing in this dialog is what the actual failure diagnosis? Just because a sensor is triggered does not actually mean the mechanical unit has failed. In fact the RL is known for sensor warnings from something as simple as electrical / battery instability to a cascade effect from some other trigger.

I have read little of any rear diff failures on this car unless the unit was physically damaged in some manner, low or improper fluids / maintenance or some brutal abuse.

BEFORE they jump into expensive repair or replacement, get a FACTUAL analysis of the repair. From what I read so far, those making judgment calls to make other repairs or replacements have not offered that to you and are blindly reacting to warning lights without physical evidence. Even if the warranty company pays for it, it may not be necessary if you cannot get a factual diagnosis. Ask to see the damage supposedly requiring the replacement. Perhaps the mechanical hardware is not damaged and a sensor, electrical component is the true culprit.

I would get ALL the diagnostic information documented by the Service Advisor and then call another Acura dealer and ask for a second opinion. I would even call Acura CS and express concern that there seems to be no diagnosis other than idiot light reaction. From what I read there seems to be more effort in how to make the best $$$ on the transaction rather than the best diagnosis and repair needed.

Blues Legend

They may indeed be taking advantage of the OP's naivety.

However, Occam's Razor suggests we should never presume malice, where stupidity is an equally plausible explanation; the dealership staff may well be scared by the complexity of SH-AWD and have NFI how to go about a logical diagnosis.

TampaRLX-SH

If an Acura dealer is afraid of SHAWD complexity, after being on the market for 10 years then either the Tech or Service Advisor (or both) are not only stupid and ill trained but the dealership is a disservice to the brand. It is, after all their own technology. If they know enough to suggest a $9000 repair without hard evidence of the failure, that is suspect to me.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

I lost my rear when they didn't fill both chambers after a service... I can tell you this, no matter how much I complained Honda would not let me have the old part, nor would they diagnose it.

They didn't want it opened, drained, nothing... they wanted it replaced as a whole assembly and shipped back.

Toppatop

ok, so I just picked up the car from the dealer and the result are exactly what I went through a year ago. The SHAWD code is 82-2 which is a Right Search Coil Sensor (open or short). I replaced this control unit a year ago to only find out that part I used is now discontinued and there is a new part number 48310-RJC-A09 which cost between $600 to $900. The tech at the dealer still recommends replacing the rear diff. but when i told him about the discontinued control unit, he and everyone else then became indecisive as they were now unsure what to blame for the code.

oo7spy

2005 2006 2007 2008 Acura RL 3 5L V6 Rear Differential Case Box Carrier | eBay

Toppatop

thats actually one of the part i am currently watching on eBay. my question now is should i replace the rear diff or the control unit . they both will be about the same price completed . is it common for the rear diff to malfunction without any damage or rust? and oil has been maintained

oo7spy

Given that you are on your second goose chase with this particular diff, I would start over with a different one. Now, that assumes you are at least going to replace the control unit AND the "new" one comes with a control unit included. Who really knows what is causing what to fail, and even if they could find out, is it worth the money to?

Toppatop

I don't know if this makes any difference but, I just noticed that the SH all-wheel-drive light does not come on when I start the car until the vehicle moves. once it's placed in drive or reverse and it moves that's when the light comes on.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

if it doesnt affect performance and isnt under warranty... I say drive it.

Toppatop

The problem is that it does affect performance because my SHAWD has switched itself to front wheel drive only. And I feel the difference IT SUCKS!!!!

sOLLEx

K, so you had the exact same issue a year ago?....the problem I am having is why you can't get a straight answer. The code has a troubleshooting procedure and you said they spent all these hours diagnosing it but still can't be for sure! I mean all there is to do is make some resistance/continuity measurements between the control unit and the diff 2 plug search coil connector! WTH....Am I correct in assuming that your extended wty company wasn't going to cover this? Seems to me, your wasting your time and money with these fools. I'll sell you the one I got for $350 if you really wanna throw a diff at it.

Toppatop

if the control unit doesn't fix my problem i will most def buy your rear diff. if you could, please send me a couple pics of it. thanks email the pics to topshotta55@hotmail

oo7spy

You are going to spend $600-900 on a second new control unit when entire diffs cost less? And then if the unit doesn't work you will buy the diff?!?

sOLLEx, does the diff assembly come with the control unit? Please say no or I have lost all hope in humanity.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

Toppatop

The control unit does not come with the diff it is mounted on the Back of the rear seat. At least that is what I was told. The reason I want with the contr unit first is because I do not believe the diff is damaged or is the issue. Although the doffs can be sourced for $350 -$550. The lowest install price I was able yo get is $2000

oo7spy

Okay. I hoped something was missing. I am still curious why your control unit would fail twice though.

Toppatop

My best hues is that the original one invy car was discontinued and. New part was introduced. Two years ago when I replaced the control unit I used to same part number that my vehicle was produced with not thinking it would make a difference. And because the new part cost $600 when the olds replacement was only $85. Took a gamble so in a way I think it's biting me back.

sOLLEx

Or you can fly me to Connecticut and I'll diag it for you!

Toppatop

So, I recieve the SHAWD control unit and had it installed. Turned out ......gets not the problem. That was $700 down the drain. I was able to source a rear diff from a local junkyard "par my ride" for $165. Dropping the car off in an hour. Hopefully his will solve the issue because this is the last attempt at this issue. By the way they are willing to drop the install price from $2500 to $750........interesting

oo7spy

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

its like watching a horror flick and yelling at the screen. . . they get killed anyway.

Toppatop

I agree Heavy, it like you describe about the scary movie except I have to keep paying to watch it over and over lol. I hate to say this but if the rear diff doesn't solve the problem I'm going to sell the car for whatever I get and go back to Audi A6

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

I cant say that I would blame ya.

rlerman

Why would you be responsible for paying them anything. Tell them to put the old part back in, they misdiagnosed it and need to be held accountable.

oo7spy