So im at a red light and i hear a loud click come from my transmission. All the sudden a bunch of alarms go off.. SH-AWD, VSA, AFS, ABS, Check Brake, TPMS Sensor all get alerts in the MID. Also the RPM, Speed and Heat gauges in the instrument cluster become unresponsive and stay at zero except for the gas gauge. The NAVI loses power and wont come back on so I cant control my audio, map or AC, only through the climate control buttons. Also the MID is unresponsive and doesn't show any stats like MPG, Oil Life, etc.

I'm freaking out and have no idea what to do. Please help me.

 

My guess is electrical and likely a bad battery or alternator or both. My 2006 RL recently did some of the same behavior as you describe and it was a bad battery and also an alternator not putting out enough juice. It runs like new again since replacing the alternator and battery.

 

I have similar problem with my TL, vsa light on, gauge quit, ac stops working... If you find the problem let us know, it could be helpful for all of us

 

Check you battery cable connections. If one is loose, that can cause all sorts of electrical issues. You shouldn't be able to budge the cable on the terminal.

If it isn't a connection issue, normally these threads would be answered with a new battery, but your symptoms seem worse than most. That leads me to believe it is the alternator which likely drained your battery.

 

Step 1: Check and clean connections.
Step 2: Check / replace battery.
Step 3: Check / replace alternator.

The RL is a drama queen when electrical sources are interrupted or failed. It throws every code and cascades towards nuclear meltdown. The RL also eats batteries like an ex-wife downs bon bons on alimony check day.

 

Our RL is in the shop right now for a new alternator and battery. The alternator alone is $600+ and they want another $169 for the battery. I've browsed a few threads on here on the subject of batteries and it looks like I shouldn't be surprised if a battery only lasts a few years, so a good warranty is significant. The dealership tried emphasizing that the RL is picky about getting the right battery, but is it really worth the bucks compared to what is available on the aftermarket? I do like the fact they said it includes a 100 month warranty, but I don't know how much of that includes free replacement.

 

Just get the Acura battery. My RL ate two Optima RedTop batteries before I learned my lesson.

 

I'll have to admit we're fond of getting batteries from AAA, in large part because they will bring a new battery to you for warranty replacement and install it wherever the car is sitting at the time. However, at first glance on their website they don't have a listing for a battery for the RL.

 

I have to admit I'm curious exactly what the lesson is that you learned. Does the Acura battery last longer, or is the warranty good enough to make it a good deal? Based on what I've read here and your response I have pretty well decided on going with the one from the dealer, but I am still curious.

 

The warranty. I paid less for a battery from Acura than I did for an Optima RedTop. I had a RedTop in my Prelude and I put one in my wife's TL. It performed perfectly in both of those applications. The RL is a battery eating machine. It also takes a very specific battery. You're much better off just using the battery that Acura specifies for the car and having it replaced every few years under warranty for a small price than trying and failing over and over with various other brands.

 

You have me sold on the one from the dealer. What's so specific about the RL battery?

 

The RL is limited because the top of the battery has to be flat. The positive terminal houses a 50A fuse for the radiator fan, and that housing won't fit on a battery with any raised parts on top of the battery. That alone cuts your options by 3/4. Since the Acura battery fits, has a good warranty, and hasp proven to last at least two years in the RL, it's a solid option.

I used an Everstart Gold from O'Reilly ($120, 3 year full warranty + 3 year pro-rated). The warranty sold me and I don't live particularly close to a dealer. I think if the warranty is the same as Acura and it fits, there is no fundamental reason Acura is better. I never did get to find out how long it would last.

 

It's more the size that makes it specific. A lot of auto parts stores don't even stock a battery that fits the RL.

 

I caught the part about a flat top on other threads I've read here. I figured that's why the battery cover was missing on our car when we bought it this summer. I guess it's time to get the Acura battery installed and then look into getting a new battery cover sometime soon.

 

I work for a Honda dealer. I just looked up the part number for the Acura battery and it is available through a Honda dealer. The part number is 31500-SF1-A1100M. I just figured I would mention it if a Honda dealer is more convenient for you.

 

I'll keep that in mind for future needs. Here in town the Honda dealer is just down the street from the Honda dealer so it doesn't make much difference as far as location. Price for repairs might be a different matter. I'm familiar with the Honda dealership just because it was formerly the Olds dealership where my father always bought his cars, and where I returned for service after I bought his last Oldsmobile from him. I presume the warranty on an Acura battery is only good through Acura dealers, not Honda.

BTW, I apologize for hijacking the thread, but I'm grateful for the advice.

 

Yeah, well technically you can make a raised battery work, by flipping the bracket upside down, and spending hours invoking the wrath of God upon it if it doesn't comply...

 

you have the "it won't fit" and the "I can make it fit" groups... it all depends on which one you are.

 

Other than fitment, why does the RL keep eating batteries? Has anyone figured this out?

 

define "eating batteries"... I think there is more of a sensitivity to a low battery.

 

There are a few battery issues the forum has aggregated over the years.

1. Parasitic draw. Two sources that have surfaced are the power trunk release lever. The other was Bluetooth module. A few were not disconnecting from the phone (say while the RL was in the garage and the phone was in range). Both were addressed in TSBs and typically reported in 2005 -2006 MY.

2. Shorts in door handle dimples draw the battery down.

3. Low battery / bad cell. Car may be starting but some warning lights may be tripped. usually power telescope steering wheel stops and Mem light does not engage. This has been reported when battery tested good.

4. My experience has been a new battery every 2.5-3 years.

5. Nimrod who runs stereo while washing car or uses 12V power port for tire inflator with engine off has discovered battery will fail in minutes.

 

Interesting. In my CL I was able to run the stereo for close to an hour before the car needed to be started again and I was running a JL300/4 and JL500/1 that have a fairly decent power draw. When I do my stereo I'm going to take a close look at the battery and see whats up.

Has anyone tried doing the big 3 upgrade? I could easily see a poor factory ground causing these issues, but I haven't looked at it yet so I can't say if the factory ground is good or not.