TonyCD

Like many of us, when I got my RL, I raced for the Zaino, etc, to protect my fine leather. In fact it is fine leather, one of the many things I love about the RL. But I've read some information since that's convinced me leather products aren't the most productive way to protect it.

After some digging around on the Interwebs, it appears that virtually all Japanese and American carmakers -- figuring (probably correctly) that American owners don't or won't maintain their leather properly -- cover the leather with a fine coating of transparent plastic. (This is why one or two owners on the TL forum posted pictures of their leather seats literally melting in summer heat. I don't recall this happening to cows.)

In short, if you put Zaino, Leatherique, etc. on your RL seats, most of it will never touch the leather, except for the part that oozes into the perforations. It will just sit atop the plastic coating. (Yes, I know our seats have a lovely leather smell. Why? I'm guessing it wafts up through the holes.) But unless you've worn out the driver's side bolster, what you need for the all-important surface isn't a leather preservative -- it's a PLASTIC preservative.

From what I've been able to find out, ArmorAll is (as usual) a terrible choice for this purpose. It's got silicone, which actually accelerates the breakdown of rubber and plastics. A much better choice is 303 Aerospace Protectant, the low-gloss stuff that prevents UV breakdown in everything from recreational boats to automotive weatherstripping. I've used it on everything from the dashboard to the seats. It smells a bit funny for a day or two, but then it leaves a nice low-gloss layer (no blinding sheen from the dash on sunny summer days). And the seats? Time will tell, but this is where I'm placing my bet.

Now, I'm guessing this will provoke howls of outrage from somebody. Have at it.

TampaRLX-SH

Indeed there is a thin layer of a vinyl protect ant coating the leather. However it will allow leather conditioner to penetrate and the purpose is condition the leather deeper than the surface alone maintain playability.

That said, leather does wear and at minimum developes a patina as most driver's seat show a sheen more than the remainder of the interior. Although the leather on my drivers seat has held up well, it does have a patina and a few creases that have developed over the last 6 years.

I have once, and will repeat again soon a slight restorative process that mimics what many professional leather restorers perform. First is blending in leather dye where the dyed surface has worn. On my RL, a few spots where the leather is folded / tufted on the driver's seat, the wear took off they dye and I had a few dark lines. Minimal, but noticeable to my discerning eye. Professionals air brush the dye but I was successful blending it in with a small sponge and light repetitive applications. There are directions on prep work to remove oils, grime etc from the leather first.

http://www.classicdyeproducts.com/

Afterwords I resealed the leather with a vinyl spray product similar to what the manufacturers use on the OEM leather. After a few light coats, the leather was again sealed and it returned the satin finish making the drivers seat look new and match the passenger seat. That was 2 years ago, and aside from the patina again returning, it has held up very well, especially the dye. I will soon clean the seat again and apply another few coats of the sealer to lessen the patina. This sealer is available online and in many crafts stores...inexpensive and my results have been very effective.


For the most part, leather wipes do the maintenance for me, and about twice a year I use the LEXOL products for conditioning. I am pleased with the results and duration. However, I am very fortunate that my RL is garaged at home and the office, so I have have minimal sun / UV exposure.

TonyCD

Great info, Tampa. Thanks for sharing it.

I've noticed that older TLs get a lot more gloss with age on their driver's seats than our cars do. I've read that TLs and leather Accords have a fundamentally different, cheaper variety of leather than the RL -- theirs is from the sub-surface layers of the hide, finished and coated. Maybe that means there's a need to coat it thicker with plastic, since that layer's not naturally as smooth a surface as the epidermis is.

Obviously, if the dye's wearing off in spots, that's unquestionable proof that the plastic coating has been worn away there. So, all the better to know about the other steps you've discovered. Much obliged.

tnobori1

I thought I had heard that the MDX and TL have a plastic/leather blend (perhaps one on top of the other, like Tony suggested) versus the higher quality used in the RL. The seats in our MDX look like crap after a relatively short amount of time in the car. The RL looked new the whole time I had it; and I treated both interiors with the same care/products.

carrera

Interesting topic. As often happens when getting a new vehicle, dealers have detail experts. I spoke with their interior specialist. The interior on my '07 (parchment) looks like new. I asked her what she suggests for leather - saddle soap. She was not a fan of any of the most common products which include many additives. I wish I could remember more, but her key point - use saddle soap to clean and mink oil to condition.

I used Leather Honey - seems to add a very nice soft feel back to the leather, but now I'm not so sure anymore.

253RL

Lexol ftw! Did wonders on my RL! Now using it on my 2010 crv ex-L navi! Once on it and the pleather has already begun to become more supple! It's readily available and ph balanced! It's a 4 step process but the results are a nice soft leather that's rejuvenated and protected!