Installing A-spec suspension at dealer, advice?
#41
Pro
Thought I would jump in here...so if I am reading this right, A spec is just a spring upgrade? Is it a 4 spring upgrade? Cost? Dealer availability or can I get it elsewhere?
#42
Pro
Thread Starter
Aspec is a full suspension upgrade, which includes springs and struts. Cost, parts are generally around 600 online on ebay. As for installation cost at the dealer, The cheapest I've gotten was $600, while another dealer wanted $819 for installation and alignment.
#44
Pro
Thread Starter
I'm still waiting on my 09 rear sway bar to come in, planning of installing it all at once. I am really hating the wait..but I've been told that the sway bar should be coming in this week.
I'm still running on the stock wheels and tires. Thinking about switching the rims when I need a new set of tires, which is probably a few years from now :/. Plus, I really want those 18" AME FS-01 wheels because none of the other aftermarket wheels look appealing to me. Funds are a bit tight right now to get new wheels topping out at around 2k.
I'm still running on the stock wheels and tires. Thinking about switching the rims when I need a new set of tires, which is probably a few years from now :/. Plus, I really want those 18" AME FS-01 wheels because none of the other aftermarket wheels look appealing to me. Funds are a bit tight right now to get new wheels topping out at around 2k.
#45
Pro
Thread Starter
So I'll be going in to the mechanic tomorrow to get the suspension and 19mm rear sway bar installed. The only thing that worries me is the rear suspension, in which getting access to it is the hardest part...I hope he doesn't take off the rear shelf, instead he access the struts just by removing the rear seats.I guess I just have to trust that he knows what he's doing.
#46
any mechanic who has installed suspension before will know how to get the stuff out to get to the tops...i'm sure there are lots of cars that require similar disassembly to get to the tops of the rear struts... i woudl just want to make sure the mechanic - independent or Acura certified - is careful. some poeple are careful and some are not...it doesn't really matter where they work...
i'll be anxious to see what you think of the difference after it's in...
i'll be anxious to see what you think of the difference after it's in...
#47
Safety Car
That is exactly how mine was installed, removing the rear seat in accordance with the DIY thread in the Garage...take a look at the photos and you will see how it is done.
#48
Pro
Thread Starter
Yeah, I'm thinking of just expressing my concern to him about that, and show him the pics how people have done it by just taking out the rear seats. Hope that doesn't insult his mechanical ablility...
#49
you get what you...
pay for... if you have a great dealer service dept. then YES YOU PAY MORE but you get guys who work on Acura day after day yearly nothing else they can do your aspec in there sleep. 12mth 12,000mi warranty too. my dealer is acura of avon ct. good people.
#50
Pro
Thread Starter
So I just got it installed. Paid $150 for the installation plus the sway bar installation, nice guy. As for the ride, it is more sporty, but I'm not so sure about the "night and day" difference in handling. Perhpas it is because I'm still running on the stock 17"s.
Another thing is that, it seems that the wheel gap is slightly higher for the right rear wheel than the left. And that the wheel gap on the left front wheel is slightly higher than the left front wheel. Is it because the springs have not settled yet? I have a full tank of gas, perhaps that's why?
Another thing is that, it seems that the wheel gap is slightly higher for the right rear wheel than the left. And that the wheel gap on the left front wheel is slightly higher than the left front wheel. Is it because the springs have not settled yet? I have a full tank of gas, perhaps that's why?
Last edited by sleepinxlionhart; 06-22-2010 at 03:36 PM.
#51
Banned
So I just got it installed. Paid $150 for the installation plus the sway bar installation, nice guy. As for the ride, it is more sporty, but I'm not so sure about the "night and day" difference in handling. Perhpas it is because I'm still running on the stock 17"s.
Another thing is that, it seems that the wheel gap is slightly higher for the right rear wheel than the left. And that the wheel gap on the left front wheel is slightly higher than the left front wheel. Is it because the springs have not settled yet? I have a full tank of gas, perhaps that's why?
Another thing is that, it seems that the wheel gap is slightly higher for the right rear wheel than the left. And that the wheel gap on the left front wheel is slightly higher than the left front wheel. Is it because the springs have not settled yet? I have a full tank of gas, perhaps that's why?
#52
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tip Parasurfer.
So for the difference in wheel gap, this is what I measured. Measurements are made from the lip of the fender to the lip of the wheel.
FL=15cm
FR=14.5cm
RR=14.2cm
RL=12.5cm
Not sure why the big difference in the left rear, I doubt that it's because of the gas tank because the gas take is evenly distributed in the back.
So for the difference in wheel gap, this is what I measured. Measurements are made from the lip of the fender to the lip of the wheel.
FL=15cm
FR=14.5cm
RR=14.2cm
RL=12.5cm
Not sure why the big difference in the left rear, I doubt that it's because of the gas tank because the gas take is evenly distributed in the back.
#53
does it feel tighter in turns? like if you take a 90 degree turn, does the car feel like it's more planted, or less body roll? or does it feel the same?
I know you have 17s.. but what tires do you have? OEM MXMs? those tires suck for spirited driving...
my tires have a little bit of life left but are getting close to needing replacement.. I'm really tempted to shop around and find a set of aspecs or some other nice 18" wheel..not sure I would want to go 19".. but just changing the tires would probably make teh single biggest difference.. doing from a stock 17" MXM to an 18" PS2 woudl be night/day difference in terms of grip...
drive it around some more, get on it in some turns, do some on/off ramps..and get back to us.
I know you have 17s.. but what tires do you have? OEM MXMs? those tires suck for spirited driving...
my tires have a little bit of life left but are getting close to needing replacement.. I'm really tempted to shop around and find a set of aspecs or some other nice 18" wheel..not sure I would want to go 19".. but just changing the tires would probably make teh single biggest difference.. doing from a stock 17" MXM to an 18" PS2 woudl be night/day difference in terms of grip...
drive it around some more, get on it in some turns, do some on/off ramps..and get back to us.
#54
Banned
Thanks for the tip Parasurfer.
So for the difference in wheel gap, this is what I measured. Measurements are made from the lip of the fender to the lip of the wheel.
FL=15cm
FR=14.5cm
RR=14.2cm
RL=12.5cm
Not sure why the big difference in the left rear, I doubt that it's because of the gas tank because the gas take is evenly distributed in the back.
So for the difference in wheel gap, this is what I measured. Measurements are made from the lip of the fender to the lip of the wheel.
FL=15cm
FR=14.5cm
RR=14.2cm
RL=12.5cm
Not sure why the big difference in the left rear, I doubt that it's because of the gas tank because the gas take is evenly distributed in the back.
#55
Pro
Thread Starter
i'm measuing in my garage, so it's pretty leveled. I just measured up from the ground to the fender, same thing. front left is higher, and rear left is higher. If the rear left is lower due to me sitting on the left side, shouldn't the front left be lower too?
I did take measurements before hand, but they weren't good because I only measured the left side, the ground up to the front bumper just infront of the wheel, and the ground up to the side skirt of the rear wheel. Darn, should have measured it with the fender to the wheel lip on all four....
I did take measurements before hand, but they weren't good because I only measured the left side, the ground up to the front bumper just infront of the wheel, and the ground up to the side skirt of the rear wheel. Darn, should have measured it with the fender to the wheel lip on all four....
#57
Pro
Thread Starter
does it feel tighter in turns? like if you take a 90 degree turn, does the car feel like it's more planted, or less body roll? or does it feel the same?
I know you have 17s.. but what tires do you have? OEM MXMs? those tires suck for spirited driving...
my tires have a little bit of life left but are getting close to needing replacement.. I'm really tempted to shop around and find a set of aspecs or some other nice 18" wheel..not sure I would want to go 19".. but just changing the tires would probably make teh single biggest difference.. doing from a stock 17" MXM to an 18" PS2 woudl be night/day difference in terms of grip...
drive it around some more, get on it in some turns, do some on/off ramps..and get back to us.
I know you have 17s.. but what tires do you have? OEM MXMs? those tires suck for spirited driving...
my tires have a little bit of life left but are getting close to needing replacement.. I'm really tempted to shop around and find a set of aspecs or some other nice 18" wheel..not sure I would want to go 19".. but just changing the tires would probably make teh single biggest difference.. doing from a stock 17" MXM to an 18" PS2 woudl be night/day difference in terms of grip...
drive it around some more, get on it in some turns, do some on/off ramps..and get back to us.
#58
Pro
Thread Starter
Huh, I still don't understand why there would be these gap inconsistencies. Funny thing is that on the left side, the wheel gap is obviously smaller than before, but the clearance level (measured from ground to the end of the sideskirt) is the same. Really odd.
Maybe I will get adjustable ones later on if these keep bothering me. I just don't get why there is this problem.
I'll try and get some pics tomorrow if time permits.
Oh, and an update on the gaps:
Here's what I measured, from the bottom fender lip to the lip of the wheel.
FL=15cm--->14.6cm
FR=14.5cm-->14.1cm
RR=14.2cm-->same
RL=12.5cm-->same
The 2nd values are 6 hours later. not sure why the rear right one is so much different from the rear left..
Last edited by sleepinxlionhart; 06-22-2010 at 10:17 PM.
#59
Pro
Thread Starter
OKay, so after doing some research online, it seems that a difference between wheel gaps is normal, even for stock cars. From what I've read is that it's more of a Japanese car thing? But that it really isn't a big deal. Likewise, I also read that if adjustable coilovers are used to give the car even wheel gaps, the roof line will be slanted. I used one of those leveling meters on the top and inside of the trunk, and the car sits even.
Can anyone with a stock RL please measure the lip of the fender to the lip of the 4 wheels for me? I just want to make sure that the car was uneven to begin with. Much appreciated.
Can anyone with a stock RL please measure the lip of the fender to the lip of the 4 wheels for me? I just want to make sure that the car was uneven to begin with. Much appreciated.
#60
Pro
Thread Starter
So after a night of settling, the front wheel gaps are even, and the rear wheel gaps are a bit off at 13.5 and 14.2cm, which is nothing. I went to measure my bone stock 2010 Insight, and the rears are off by 1cm, the passenger side being higher. I guess I have nothing to worry about now. I'm a happy camper
Here are some wheel gap pics, before and after. The pictures kind of suck, and I shouldn't have measured the wheel gap because it can be all relative depending on the angle. I tried to get as level as possible with the camera. Sorry that I used the inch side of the ruler for the "after" photos, forgot I used the cm side for the 'before." Placed side by side, it's easier to tell the difference.
Front before:
after:
Rear before:
after:
I'm sure there's more settling for the springs to do before I get the 3/4" to 1" drop stated from the A-spec suspension.
Here are some wheel gap pics, before and after. The pictures kind of suck, and I shouldn't have measured the wheel gap because it can be all relative depending on the angle. I tried to get as level as possible with the camera. Sorry that I used the inch side of the ruler for the "after" photos, forgot I used the cm side for the 'before." Placed side by side, it's easier to tell the difference.
Front before:
after:
Rear before:
after:
I'm sure there's more settling for the springs to do before I get the 3/4" to 1" drop stated from the A-spec suspension.
#62
Pro
Thread Starter
Here are some more detailed impressions on having the A-specs on. Today I drive on a narrow mountain road, which I was generally around 20-30 mph all the time. I drove this road a day prior before I got the A-specs installed. The difference is rather noticeable. The car is indeed more agile and precise, less body roll and just felt more planted around the corners. It gives more confidence on taking turns, although of course, it's not magical that it'll keep the car on the road no matter how hard you drive it. On straight roads, it is not that much different from stock, it really isn't too rough at all. I'm sure if someone that has never sat in an RL sat in one with A-specs, they would think that the ride is stock because it still give a luxurious feeling but also sporty at the same time.
I can't wait to see how it feels like with 18" wheels, but that'll just have to wait. Although I had a bit of a buyer's remorse yesterday because of the inconsistencies in the wheel gaps, but now that the springs have settled and resolved the problem, this mod (also with the 19mm sway bar) was well worth it. If anyone is wondering, total cost are:
A-spec suspension: $515
19mm sway bar: $63
Installation: $150
I can't wait to see how it feels like with 18" wheels, but that'll just have to wait. Although I had a bit of a buyer's remorse yesterday because of the inconsistencies in the wheel gaps, but now that the springs have settled and resolved the problem, this mod (also with the 19mm sway bar) was well worth it. If anyone is wondering, total cost are:
A-spec suspension: $515
19mm sway bar: $63
Installation: $150
#63
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Buyer's remorse is a waste of time, sir. You don't like, you can resell on black market! That's how I feel anyway, I buy things knowing it's like I'm renting them until I get bored.
As far as handling being better, good job! Glad it was worth it. I'm glad you didn't take it as an attack when I said I only go with coils now. On my 97 accord, OMG...talk about obsessing about the wheel gap...I bought cheap springs, ended up cutting them repeatedly with a dremel etc...then I went with good springs on the next car and ended up with rubbing when the new tires I had bought...after that I said, I don't want to deal with this so either I wait till I have the grand for coilovers or I don't touch the suspension.
Just my story...lol.
As far as handling being better, good job! Glad it was worth it. I'm glad you didn't take it as an attack when I said I only go with coils now. On my 97 accord, OMG...talk about obsessing about the wheel gap...I bought cheap springs, ended up cutting them repeatedly with a dremel etc...then I went with good springs on the next car and ended up with rubbing when the new tires I had bought...after that I said, I don't want to deal with this so either I wait till I have the grand for coilovers or I don't touch the suspension.
Just my story...lol.
#64
Pro
Thread Starter
No no, no offense taken when you said you only go with coilovers. That is a great idea to solve the problem. Adjustable coilovers gives a lot of options, and are a good choice to go with.
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