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Hit the curb at 25 MPH or so and wheel is setback a bit
Few days ago I got an alignment done because I hit a curb at around 25 or more MPH and steering wheel became 1/4 of an inch off center to the left. The front left wheel did get some medium damage in the form of deep marks/scratches. Tire is fine, but I think left wheel some how got pushed back a bit. The tech said, he didn't see any damaged parts and the print out looks good. My take on this is that after hitting the curb, a control arm or another part could of just slightly bend. While waiting for the wheel repair shop to fix the wheel, I took some photos and videos of the left side. One thing I did notice the bushing that is on lower arm which has fork going through it, has some rip. Could of been from the damage or just age. I think to compensate the wheel setback, tech could of shifted the subframe. 1) In other words, if lower arm is slightly bent but not visible to naked eye, could that cause wheel setback? 2) OR maybe it is the lower fork that bent?
The question is which one as by looking at parts doesn't reveal much and unfortunately that technician didn't say anything about "wheel setback" or offered me to replace any part
Take the front left wheel off and check the mounting points/bushings for the upper and lower control arms for damage. Also do a visual inspection to see if either arm is structurally bent. Any decent alignment tech should be able to look at camber, caster and toe and tell you what's bent.
Take the front left wheel off and check the mounting points/bushings for the upper and lower control arms for damage. Also do a visual inspection to see if either arm is structurally bent. Any decent alignment tech should be able to look at camber, caster and toe and tell you what's bent.
Guy who did the alignment said "I didn't see any bent components(at least not visually)". So my posted image is the print out of that. While the wheel was off, I took few videos of components, but there is nothing obvious that would indicate bent components. Here is a longer video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/bGxFQvpBdxV966nW9 In the first posted video link, at 30 second mark, lower control arm/lower fork bushing has a tear in it(can be see under the bolt), but not a lot.
I guess another repair shop/collision body shop should be able to tell.
Last edited by Imperial; Dec 25, 2020 at 10:01 PM.
ive seen extreme cases where one can immediately tell a bent bar or metal component...
on the other extreme, something may be bent where it isnt discernable to the naked eye
ive seen extreme cases where one can immediately tell a bent bar or metal component...
on the other extreme, something may be bent where it isnt discernable to the naked eye
On Monday I will take the car to body shop that deals with collision stuff as well. Before that, maybe some one can tell me how can I measure if left wheel is pushed back. I tried to measure from the right side of the wheel to the fender (by the mud guard) and it takes 3 fingers tight to fit. On the other side(not the damaged one), it takes 3 fingers and half a finger to touch the fender/mud guard. That may not be the correct way...
I went to another alignment shop and showed the guy, a print out of the recent alignment. He said that by looking at the sheet, left front wheel is setback and he will need to examine the vehicle to see if something is bent and/or subframe got shifted a bit. Pretty much only available time/date was Wednesday next week.
Anyone that did an alignment previously on 2nd gen RL, could you please provide the print out of it? I just want to see if most or all alignment shops do have Acura's factory "specified range" numbers.
Caster specs on your car seem to be at 2.4 for both which is good, but I wonder why 2009 shop manual from Acura shows caster to be at 2.10 and not more than 0.30 difference between both sides. Unless 2008 model has some different alignment specs
steering wheel became 1/4 of an inch off center to the left
...is the giveaway - some things (more than one) are definitely bent. Let us know what the collision repair place says !
Alignment only tells you the direction of the wheels, and the angles they sit at - depending on exactly what is damaged, you could have a massive or a zero effect on your alignment numbers.... was it the front right wheel you hit ? Your alignment shows the Front Right Toe was way out (0.21) before the tech adjusted it back to 0.00
...is the giveaway - some things (more than one) are definitely bent. Let us know what the collision repair place says !
Alignment only tells you the direction of the wheels, and the angles they sit at - depending on exactly what is damaged, you could have a massive or a zero effect on your alignment numbers.... was it the front right wheel you hit ? Your alignment shows the Front Right Toe was way out (0.21) before the tech adjusted it back to 0.00
Front left was hit.
The collision shop sent me to the alignment shop that I had in mind earlier, but never went there because they had an open date which conflicted with another appointment. The alignment guy first looked at alignment print out which I got couple of weeks prior and said that according to the print out, the left front wheel is setback. He also told me that it is possible that subframe could of shifted if nothing is bent(or not visible to naked eye). The tech checked the car for any visible damage to parts and other component but couldn't find any play in the parts. He went ahead further aligned the car and fixed caster on both sides and made it 2.3 degrees. Also adjusted Camber to 0 now for both.
I though when second alignment shop would correct the caster, steering feel would be as light as it was but it didn't. It is stiffer than it used to be. If nothing is wrong/bent according to 2 alignment shops, could it be the "intermediate steering shaft" issues? Pretty much backing out of a parking and steering to about 80% left/right, just produces single click(not loud) and it seem to be coming from inside, right in front of me. Also while turning when that click happens, I think I feel some kind of subtle "dip" in the steering smoothness.
I though when second alignment shop would correct the caster, steering feel would be as light as it was but it didn't. It is stiffer than it used to be. If nothing is wrong/bent according to 2 alignment shops, could it be the "intermediate steering shaft" issues? Pretty much backing out of a parking and steering to about 80% left/right, just produces single click(not loud) and it seem to be coming from inside, right in front of me. Also while turning when that click happens, I think I feel some kind of subtle "dip" in the steering smoothness.
Mine kinda clunks under the floorboard, but it also has the clock spring rattle too, like most cars.
Going to fallow your thread closer to see if your diagnosis can help with my intermittent loose steering issue.
You said your steering got stiffer recently?
Yes, basically after hitting the curb and steering wheel became off center 1/4 of an inch to the left. 2 alignment shops took care of the alignment but steering wheel feel still isn't the same.
Today I needed to drive somewhere and paid closed attention. Noticed that when car is cold, the steering is a bit loose/easier to turn and might actually have a loose spot or two while steering. Also that click noise is easier to reproduce than on the warm car.
That makes me think maybe a ball joint of some sort took a hit or developed scuff mark and deformed a little without ripping the rubber boot. Lower control arm, outer tie rod or it is really has something to do with the steering column Some mechanics when asked, think that before damaging the intermediate steering shaft, there are other components that could go bad.
After some driving, steering components warm up and steering wheel becomes stiffer(not too much by can be felt). I just don't know if damaged(not visually) tie rod can make steering wheel feel loose or stiff
Yes, basically after hitting the curb and steering wheel became off center 1/4 of an inch to the left. 2 alignment shops took care of the alignment but steering wheel feel still isn't the same.
Today I needed to drive somewhere and paid closed attention. Noticed that when car is cold, the steering is a bit loose/easier to turn and might actually have a loose spot or two while steering. Also that click noise is easier to reproduce than on the warm car.
That makes me think maybe a ball joint of some sort took a hit or developed scuff mark and deformed a little without ripping the rubber boot. Lower control arm, outer tie rod or it is really has something to do with the steering column Some mechanics when asked, think that before damaging the intermediate steering shaft, there are other components that could go bad.
After some driving, steering components warm up and steering wheel becomes stiffer(not too much by can be felt). I just don't know if damaged(not visually) tie rod can make steering wheel feel loose or stiff
I think my rack is failing around the pinion gear.
Listen under the car and see if you hear or feel anything loose around the firewall.
Your busings and endlinks have probably been visually inspected a few times, by now
I think my rack is failing around the pinion gear.
Listen under the car and see if you hear or feel anything loose around the firewall.
Your busings and endlinks have probably been visually inspected a few times, by now
When I took scratched up wheel to the repair shop, while car was without left front wheel, I took few videos of parts and they seemed normal, haven't see any ripped bushings or rubber boots. I did see that lower control arm middle bushing that front strut fork attaches to is starting to tear a bit, but that is still mostly in good shape. I wanted to record the noise from outside the car, but on warm car, couldn't repro it.
I honestly don't even think about rack and pinion going bad. I have spent about $500 already: wheel repair was $150, then first place alignment was $130 but they didn't realign subframe, so I went for second opinion/alignment to another place. Paid there $90 and total + local WA 10% tax. I went again to the first shop because the steering wheel was off center to the right, so they corrected it. So pretty much first alignment shop was almost a waste of money and time.
When I took scratched up wheel to the repair shop, while car was without left front wheel, I took few videos of parts and they seemed normal, haven't see any ripped bushings or rubber boots. I did see that lower control arm middle bushing that front strut fork attaches to is starting to tear a bit, but that is still mostly in good shape. I wanted to record the noise from outside the car, but on warm car, couldn't repro it.
I honestly don't even think about rack and pinion going bad. I have spent about $500 already: wheel repair was $150, then first place alignment was $130 but they didn't realign subframe, so I went for second opinion/alignment to another place. Paid there $90 and total + local WA 10% tax. I went again to the first shop because the steering wheel was off center to the right, so they corrected it. So pretty much first alignment shop was almost a waste of money and time.
I hate how these things can be such a miss to diagnose...
Some mechanics when asked, think that before damaging the intermediate steering shaft, there are other components that could go bad.