Found it! Found it! Battery drain solved!
Found it! Found it! Battery drain solved!
My Regendo just killed a brand-new battery.
Draw test revealed that I was losing 780 mA, which probably explains it.
230 mA was on fuse 5 in the driver's kick plate, but that still left ~550 mA which was traced to the dreaded fuse 7.
A very helpful technician at Norton Way Honda explained that that's supposed to go away once the car's alarm has re-set itself, turned off lights and gone to bed. You'll either have to disconnect the bonnet latch plug (too awkward - I levered the latch 'closed') but I still had the 540 mA draw.
Desperately checking systems, I realised the boot/trunk lid button on the chrome moustache no longer functions. The remote/interior buttons fire the lock itself, so are fine.
Took me some swearing to fight my way through the duvet, but I disconnected the button plug and behold! Now drawing 20 mA, which is what I'd expect for the alarm system etc.
It's been biblical wet here recently (some bloke called Noah Zark was grumbling about it...) so I suspect that was the causin' of it all.
Anyway, if that helps anyone else with the Fuse #7 Multiplex Blues, so be it.
Now just to de-muller the trunk lid duvet and instal the battery arriving this arvo. And re-set everything...
Draw test revealed that I was losing 780 mA, which probably explains it.
230 mA was on fuse 5 in the driver's kick plate, but that still left ~550 mA which was traced to the dreaded fuse 7.
A very helpful technician at Norton Way Honda explained that that's supposed to go away once the car's alarm has re-set itself, turned off lights and gone to bed. You'll either have to disconnect the bonnet latch plug (too awkward - I levered the latch 'closed') but I still had the 540 mA draw.
Desperately checking systems, I realised the boot/trunk lid button on the chrome moustache no longer functions. The remote/interior buttons fire the lock itself, so are fine.
Took me some swearing to fight my way through the duvet, but I disconnected the button plug and behold! Now drawing 20 mA, which is what I'd expect for the alarm system etc.
It's been biblical wet here recently (some bloke called Noah Zark was grumbling about it...) so I suspect that was the causin' of it all.
Anyway, if that helps anyone else with the Fuse #7 Multiplex Blues, so be it.
Now just to de-muller the trunk lid duvet and instal the battery arriving this arvo. And re-set everything...
Thanks, Tony.
It was a matter of working my way round to find something that didn't work as expected.
Our cars don't have the notorious Acura touch-sensing door handles but they do have little LEDs in them, so it seemed a likely source of water ingress/shorting.
The boot/trunk lid was next on the agenda and sure enough...as much luck as deductive judgment, really.
It was a matter of working my way round to find something that didn't work as expected.
Our cars don't have the notorious Acura touch-sensing door handles but they do have little LEDs in them, so it seemed a likely source of water ingress/shorting.
The boot/trunk lid was next on the agenda and sure enough...as much luck as deductive judgment, really.
Battery drain
Was the drain on a 2006 ACURA RL?
QUOTE=Blues Legend;16931071]My Regendo just killed a brand-new battery.
Draw test revealed that I was losing 780 mA, which probably explains it.
230 mA was on fuse 5 in the driver's kick plate, but that still left ~550 mA which was traced to the dreaded fuse 7.
A very helpful technician at Norton Way Honda explained that that's supposed to go away once the car's alarm has re-set itself, turned off lights and gone to bed. You'll either have to disconnect the bonnet latch plug (too awkward - I levered the latch 'closed') but I still had the 540 mA draw.
Desperately checking systems, I realised the boot/trunk lid button on the chrome moustache no longer functions. The remote/interior buttons fire the lock itself, so are fine.
Took me some swearing to fight my way through the duvet, but I disconnected the button plug and behold! Now drawing 20 mA, which is what I'd expect for the alarm system etc.
It's been biblical wet here recently (some bloke called Noah Zark was grumbling about it...) so I suspect that was the causin' of it all.
Anyway, if that helps anyone else with the Fuse #7 Multiplex Blues, so be it.
Now just to de-muller the trunk lid duvet and instal the battery arriving this arvo. And re-set everything...[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=Blues Legend;16931071]My Regendo just killed a brand-new battery.
Draw test revealed that I was losing 780 mA, which probably explains it.
230 mA was on fuse 5 in the driver's kick plate, but that still left ~550 mA which was traced to the dreaded fuse 7.
A very helpful technician at Norton Way Honda explained that that's supposed to go away once the car's alarm has re-set itself, turned off lights and gone to bed. You'll either have to disconnect the bonnet latch plug (too awkward - I levered the latch 'closed') but I still had the 540 mA draw.
Desperately checking systems, I realised the boot/trunk lid button on the chrome moustache no longer functions. The remote/interior buttons fire the lock itself, so are fine.
Took me some swearing to fight my way through the duvet, but I disconnected the button plug and behold! Now drawing 20 mA, which is what I'd expect for the alarm system etc.
It's been biblical wet here recently (some bloke called Noah Zark was grumbling about it...) so I suspect that was the causin' of it all.
Anyway, if that helps anyone else with the Fuse #7 Multiplex Blues, so be it.
Now just to de-muller the trunk lid duvet and instal the battery arriving this arvo. And re-set everything...[/QUOTE]
Oh well, that was easy...
Recharged it and it restarted - only lost steering wheel & radio memories.
But no instruments/VSA warning/security system light stuck on and an ominous buzzing from behind dash fascia.
Since it drove alright & ABS worked, figured a Crtl+alt+del was in order.
It was on disconnecting the +ve that I realised both battery terminals were loose and that was most likely the causin' of it all.
I suspect that high resistance/intermittency possibly causes the multiplex to shit itself & drain the battery by not switching itself off correctly.
But I'll keep an eye on it.
Recharged it and it restarted - only lost steering wheel & radio memories.
But no instruments/VSA warning/security system light stuck on and an ominous buzzing from behind dash fascia.
Since it drove alright & ABS worked, figured a Crtl+alt+del was in order.
It was on disconnecting the +ve that I realised both battery terminals were loose and that was most likely the causin' of it all.
I suspect that high resistance/intermittency possibly causes the multiplex to shit itself & drain the battery by not switching itself off correctly.
But I'll keep an eye on it.
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Also, the battery's outboard of the wheelbase, so gets shaken around with a lot of polar moment of inertia compared to the other Honda where they are close to the bulkhead.
Anyway, car's been fine since.
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