Finally did Timing belt

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Old 09-08-2011, 01:27 PM
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Finally did Timing belt

So i finally took my vacation and decided to tackle the timing belt job.

Local Acura Stealership was going to charge $2556.37 to do the timing belt oil change, transmission 3x3 and rear end fluid.

I decided to tackle this on my own. Parts Totaled $438. 5 hours of my time. Hopefully the car lives another worry free 120K miles.

My timing belt looked like it was barely used as well as the drive belt.

So if you are mechanically inclined just download the manual and save $2000
Old 09-08-2011, 02:04 PM
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What are all the parts needed? Timing belt, water pump, drive belt... what else?
Old 09-08-2011, 03:37 PM
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Carbon,
What section in the service manual did you find the info in?
Old 09-08-2011, 04:44 PM
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Parts needed. Timing belt, water pump, idle pulley, auto tension and pulley, drive belt.

Cylinder head manual pages 12-38. Were used.

Get the drive belt by taking a open end wrench and placing it on the top drive belt pulley. Put a pipe over it and press forward til slack is out and belt pops right off.

Take off drive belt tensioner first it makes it so much easier
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:47 PM
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How many miles do you have on your car currently?
Old 09-09-2011, 02:24 AM
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128000 still has 142-146 psi across all cylinders. less than 3% leakdown
Old 09-09-2011, 05:00 AM
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How many highway miles and how many city miles?
Old 09-09-2011, 04:31 PM
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Carbon:
How did you remove the crankshaft pulley? Special tool, impact wrench or what? The torque value for re-installation makes getting it off look like a bear.
Old 09-09-2011, 04:49 PM
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im about 60% Highway. to get the crank pulley off i used my Snap on impact. 1230 ft lbs of torque in reverse
Old 09-09-2011, 05:21 PM
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This brings up another question. What "special" tools will I need? I say special b/c I'm not sure what everyone's definition is. Assume I have a ratchet, sockets, and a jack already.
Old 09-09-2011, 06:00 PM
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I did it with all basic hand tools and my impact. 10-12-14-17-19mm sockets and open end wrenches needed.

another tip to get the motor mount off of the engine block after you remove the timing covers. take the motor mount bolts out through the passanger side fender well access
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Old 09-10-2011, 04:31 AM
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I was told by a reputable mechanic that the timing belt will not really need to be changed until 150,000 miles and your report has confirmed this. Thanks very much. I really appreciate it.
Old 09-10-2011, 11:51 AM
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i wouldn't say 150K. at least pop off the rear cam cover and look at the belt. hotter/colder climates tend to affect the way the belt ages. i live in the midwest pretty normal weather til winter time.

but i wil say my water pump did not glide as smooth as my new one did so i am glad i did change that as well as my idler pulley
Old 09-10-2011, 03:37 PM
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Thanks. I will take that into consideration.
Old 09-19-2011, 03:12 PM
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Thank you! Did you have to lift the car for anything besides getting to the motor mount? or was everything done with just the hood up?
Old 09-19-2011, 04:23 PM
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I had to put the vehicle on jackstands. 1 for safety. 2 you do have to remove the passanger side wheel so you can access the crank pulley
Old 09-20-2011, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackzilla
How did you remove the crankshaft pulley? Special tool, impact wrench or what? The torque value for re-installation makes getting it off look like a bear.
Crank pulley should NOT be unscrewed with impact wrench as some of the power full impact ends up on crankshaft bearings which are made of a pretty soft material. There is a special holder tool that goes inside pulley and lets you lock it. But that is a special tool that will cost extra about $60 for aftermarket one. Personally I got my own trick to unscrew it with a .... starter. I know it sounds awkward but it works and doesn't jeopardize your bearings. Just put your socket wrench on the bolt, some extension pipe on the ratchet, lock it against the floor and crank the engine - just two cranks.... done, works every time . You can re-torque your bolt with impact wrench that has a rating slightly higher than engine torque (231 lb·ft) . 300 lb·ft should be fine .
Old 09-20-2011, 11:02 PM
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Timing belt usually last easily 150k but only when it is not older than 5-6 years. I ve seen TB to break on the 10 year old car with 60k. Visual inspection of the belt is ok but do not be tricked by that. It is internal fibers that are worn
Old 09-20-2011, 11:29 PM
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I believe those bolts are torqued to 181 ft lbs from Factory. Not good for the starter or the gears. The special Honda Crank pulley holding tool cost ~ $25 at Amazon from Powerbuilt. I used this tool to change 2 timing belts on Accords. Works like a charm.

However, I did do the starter trick on another car, where the bolt was torqued only 80 ft lbs... It does work. I just wouldn't do it on a Honda/Acura.
Old 09-20-2011, 11:36 PM
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There is no such way to crank an RL engine, that I know of at least. Once the key is turned, an electronic system takes over and starts the car for you. I'm guessing this would be bad in this instance.

I actually like the feature for when my hand slips off the key. Less strain on the starter system.
Old 09-21-2011, 12:15 AM
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You can prob disable the fuel pump fuse so that the car wouldn't start. But yea, not recommended, but works!
Old 09-21-2011, 07:53 AM
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I've built over 20 engines only one is dead. The crank pulleys were installed and removed with my impact. Mine is strong I have a good air supply. It came off like it was nothing. Now if u have a cheap craftsman impact that will hammer on the crank for 3 minutes then I would have to agree that is bad for the motor
Old 09-21-2011, 02:18 PM
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Reading threads like this, I wish high schools weren't sexist in my day. 3 terms of Home Ec was a requirement for all girls. Auto Shop would've been a helluva lot more useful.

Originally Posted by 06RL/NBP
I was told by a reputable mechanic that the timing belt will not really need to be changed until 150,000 miles and your report has confirmed this. Thanks very much. I really appreciate it.
Originally Posted by Carbon Legend
i wouldn't say 150K. at least pop off the rear cam cover and look at the belt. hotter/colder climates tend to affect the way the belt ages. i live in the midwest pretty normal weather til winter time.

but i wil say my water pump did not glide as smooth as my new one did so i am glad i did change that as well as my idler pulley
Originally Posted by celynka
Timing belt usually last easily 150k but only when it is not older than 5-6 years. I ve seen TB to break on the 10 year old car with 60k. Visual inspection of the belt is ok but do not be tricked by that. It is internal fibers that are worn
So I just posted elsewhere -- my 2001 CL is at 130k miles. I thought the timing belt had been replaced but discovered last week it has not. The earliest my mechanic could take it is Monday and I have family coming in town next week -- would much prefer to put it off a few weeks. Trying to ascertain how risky that would be. Your thread gives me hope that I could maybe afford to put another 1k miles on it before a change.

Whaddaya think?
Old 09-21-2011, 03:10 PM
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Flip a coin.
Old 07-19-2014, 07:58 AM
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just fyi: rockauto.com sells timing belt kits for WAAAAAY less than the dealer.

The 3rd gen TL's Gates timing belt kit from rockauto.com is $130.00
Old 07-19-2014, 08:29 AM
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My local dealer advertise timing belt change special for $499(reg.$549)serpentine belt included.I asked them about the water pump and tensioner,they said will inspect and replace if needed.My car is almost 8 years old and have 98k miles..thinking about doing it soon.
Old 07-19-2014, 09:02 AM
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this is my morning:

Old 07-19-2014, 12:03 PM
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Good luck to you sir.
Old 07-19-2014, 12:08 PM
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BuLtL, I would go ahead and replace the pump and tensioner. If you do it now, you won't touch it again for 100k miles. If they go from old age (10+ years), you will have to pull it all apart again prematurely.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:50 PM
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if everything went well i give you 10POINTS for xcellence
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