Finally did Timing belt
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Finally did Timing belt
So i finally took my vacation and decided to tackle the timing belt job.
Local Acura Stealership was going to charge $2556.37 to do the timing belt oil change, transmission 3x3 and rear end fluid.
I decided to tackle this on my own. Parts Totaled $438. 5 hours of my time. Hopefully the car lives another worry free 120K miles.
My timing belt looked like it was barely used as well as the drive belt.
So if you are mechanically inclined just download the manual and save $2000
Local Acura Stealership was going to charge $2556.37 to do the timing belt oil change, transmission 3x3 and rear end fluid.
I decided to tackle this on my own. Parts Totaled $438. 5 hours of my time. Hopefully the car lives another worry free 120K miles.
My timing belt looked like it was barely used as well as the drive belt.
So if you are mechanically inclined just download the manual and save $2000
#2
Senior Moderator
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#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Parts needed. Timing belt, water pump, idle pulley, auto tension and pulley, drive belt.
Cylinder head manual pages 12-38. Were used.
Get the drive belt by taking a open end wrench and placing it on the top drive belt pulley. Put a pipe over it and press forward til slack is out and belt pops right off.
Take off drive belt tensioner first it makes it so much easier
Cylinder head manual pages 12-38. Were used.
Get the drive belt by taking a open end wrench and placing it on the top drive belt pulley. Put a pipe over it and press forward til slack is out and belt pops right off.
Take off drive belt tensioner first it makes it so much easier
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oo7spy (09-10-2011)
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#8
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Carbon:
How did you remove the crankshaft pulley? Special tool, impact wrench or what? The torque value for re-installation makes getting it off look like a bear.
How did you remove the crankshaft pulley? Special tool, impact wrench or what? The torque value for re-installation makes getting it off look like a bear.
#10
Senior Moderator
This brings up another question. What "special" tools will I need? I say special b/c I'm not sure what everyone's definition is. Assume I have a ratchet, sockets, and a jack already.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did it with all basic hand tools and my impact. 10-12-14-17-19mm sockets and open end wrenches needed.
another tip to get the motor mount off of the engine block after you remove the timing covers. take the motor mount bolts out through the passanger side fender well access
another tip to get the motor mount off of the engine block after you remove the timing covers. take the motor mount bolts out through the passanger side fender well access
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oo7spy (09-10-2011)
#12
I was told by a reputable mechanic that the timing belt will not really need to be changed until 150,000 miles and your report has confirmed this. Thanks very much. I really appreciate it.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
i wouldn't say 150K. at least pop off the rear cam cover and look at the belt. hotter/colder climates tend to affect the way the belt ages. i live in the midwest pretty normal weather til winter time.
but i wil say my water pump did not glide as smooth as my new one did so i am glad i did change that as well as my idler pulley
but i wil say my water pump did not glide as smooth as my new one did so i am glad i did change that as well as my idler pulley
#17
Sundance Gold in
Crank pulley should NOT be unscrewed with impact wrench as some of the power full impact ends up on crankshaft bearings which are made of a pretty soft material. There is a special holder tool that goes inside pulley and lets you lock it. But that is a special tool that will cost extra about $60 for aftermarket one. Personally I got my own trick to unscrew it with a .... starter. I know it sounds awkward but it works and doesn't jeopardize your bearings. Just put your socket wrench on the bolt, some extension pipe on the ratchet, lock it against the floor and crank the engine - just two cranks.... done, works every time . You can re-torque your bolt with impact wrench that has a rating slightly higher than engine torque (231 lb·ft) . 300 lb·ft should be fine .
#18
Sundance Gold in
Timing belt usually last easily 150k but only when it is not older than 5-6 years. I ve seen TB to break on the 10 year old car with 60k. Visual inspection of the belt is ok but do not be tricked by that. It is internal fibers that are worn
#19
Instructor
I believe those bolts are torqued to 181 ft lbs from Factory. Not good for the starter or the gears. The special Honda Crank pulley holding tool cost ~ $25 at Amazon from Powerbuilt. I used this tool to change 2 timing belts on Accords. Works like a charm.
However, I did do the starter trick on another car, where the bolt was torqued only 80 ft lbs... It does work. I just wouldn't do it on a Honda/Acura.
However, I did do the starter trick on another car, where the bolt was torqued only 80 ft lbs... It does work. I just wouldn't do it on a Honda/Acura.
#20
Senior Moderator
There is no such way to crank an RL engine, that I know of at least. Once the key is turned, an electronic system takes over and starts the car for you. I'm guessing this would be bad in this instance.
I actually like the feature for when my hand slips off the key. Less strain on the starter system.
I actually like the feature for when my hand slips off the key. Less strain on the starter system.
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I've built over 20 engines only one is dead. The crank pulleys were installed and removed with my impact. Mine is strong I have a good air supply. It came off like it was nothing. Now if u have a cheap craftsman impact that will hammer on the crank for 3 minutes then I would have to agree that is bad for the motor
#23
Reading threads like this, I wish high schools weren't sexist in my day. 3 terms of Home Ec was a requirement for all girls. Auto Shop would've been a helluva lot more useful.
So I just posted elsewhere -- my 2001 CL is at 130k miles. I thought the timing belt had been replaced but discovered last week it has not. The earliest my mechanic could take it is Monday and I have family coming in town next week -- would much prefer to put it off a few weeks. Trying to ascertain how risky that would be. Your thread gives me hope that I could maybe afford to put another 1k miles on it before a change.
Whaddaya think?
i wouldn't say 150K. at least pop off the rear cam cover and look at the belt. hotter/colder climates tend to affect the way the belt ages. i live in the midwest pretty normal weather til winter time.
but i wil say my water pump did not glide as smooth as my new one did so i am glad i did change that as well as my idler pulley
but i wil say my water pump did not glide as smooth as my new one did so i am glad i did change that as well as my idler pulley
Whaddaya think?
#24
Senior Moderator
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#26
Instructor
My local dealer advertise timing belt change special for $499(reg.$549)serpentine belt included.I asked them about the water pump and tensioner,they said will inspect and replace if needed.My car is almost 8 years old and have 98k miles..thinking about doing it soon.
#29
Senior Moderator
BuLtL, I would go ahead and replace the pump and tensioner. If you do it now, you won't touch it again for 100k miles. If they go from old age (10+ years), you will have to pull it all apart again prematurely.
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