Can the 2006 RL turn off DRL's
05-09-2006, 10:15 AM
#1
Black
Thread Starter
Can the 2006 RL turn off DRL's
I was just on Acura's site (RL Photo Gallery), and noticed in the photo with the wood-look steering wheel (2 down, 3 over) that the message in the MID says "DRL off."
This has been a known issue with the 2005 car, but I was unaware the 2006 had this "feature."
It also appears that there is an aluminum band across the bottom of the large wood panel. Is this true or just a reflection?
This has been a known issue with the 2005 car, but I was unaware the 2006 had this "feature."
It also appears that there is an aluminum band across the bottom of the large wood panel. Is this true or just a reflection?
05-09-2006, 01:15 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by lindros2
I was just on Acura's site (RL Photo Gallery), and noticed in the photo with the wood-look steering wheel (2 down, 3 over) that the message in the MID says "DRL off."
This has been a known issue with the 2005 car, but I was unaware the 2006 had this "feature."
It also appears that there is an aluminum band across the bottom of the large wood panel. Is this true or just a reflection?
This has been a known issue with the 2005 car, but I was unaware the 2006 had this "feature."
It also appears that there is an aluminum band across the bottom of the large wood panel. Is this true or just a reflection?
No, When the emergency brake is on you will get the message "DRL Off" They will come on when you release the brake.
05-11-2006, 10:50 AM
#4
depends on the car, most will let you turn them off or you can bypass it without an error message appearing;takes a little effort to figure it out though.
In the case of the RL, even though I found a way to disable the 2v to the highbeams without affecting the DRL component, unfortunately there was a sneak circuit in the control module under the hood which sensed whether 2v was present or not, thus when you simply cut the 2v out from the drl (leaving the circuit acting as if nothing changed) the module under the hood saw that 2v was not present and then gives the warning of DRL not functional.
This is just another example of 'over engineering'.
There is simply no reason to have the DRL circuit in the USA model that intregral with the rest of the automobile.
There are some situations where I do not want any lights on, even at night, and the DRL is a royal pain in the ass.
In the case of the RL, even though I found a way to disable the 2v to the highbeams without affecting the DRL component, unfortunately there was a sneak circuit in the control module under the hood which sensed whether 2v was present or not, thus when you simply cut the 2v out from the drl (leaving the circuit acting as if nothing changed) the module under the hood saw that 2v was not present and then gives the warning of DRL not functional.
This is just another example of 'over engineering'.
There is simply no reason to have the DRL circuit in the USA model that intregral with the rest of the automobile.
There are some situations where I do not want any lights on, even at night, and the DRL is a royal pain in the ass.
05-11-2006, 10:56 AM
#5
Originally Posted by lindros2
It also appears that there is an aluminum band across the bottom of the large wood panel. Is this true or just a reflection?
05-11-2006, 12:02 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Rob L
not really a known issue as every car i have been in with DRLs can't have them turned off.
05-11-2006, 04:15 PM
#7
Black
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Rob L
not really a known issue as every car i have been in with DRLs can't have them turned off.
- Volvo 850
- Volvo S70
- Volvo S80
- Toyota Camry
- last-gen BMW 530i (E39)
-josh
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06-09-2006, 02:40 PM
#9
AcurAdmirer
Originally Posted by lindros2
Every car I've ever driven HAS had a DRL off:
- Volvo 850
- Volvo S70
- Volvo S80
- Toyota Camry
- last-gen BMW 530i (E39)
-josh
- Volvo 850
- Volvo S70
- Volvo S80
- Toyota Camry
- last-gen BMW 530i (E39)
-josh
I've yet to have a car where you can't kill the DRL's. Sometimes it has to be done via the OBD port by the dealer, but a lot of cars allow it by way of the driver preferences options. But I hate those things, and have yet to have a car with them "on".
06-09-2006, 04:52 PM
#11
AcurAdmirer
I've found that two things people really disagree on are DRL's and auto-locking doors (you know, the kind that automatically lock when you put the car in gear or go over 5mph or whatever).
There are people who LOVE one or both of these "features", and others who HATE them. I'm in the latter category for both.
There are people who LOVE one or both of these "features", and others who HATE them. I'm in the latter category for both.
06-10-2006, 05:51 PM
#15
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Originally Posted by Mike_TX
I've found that two things people really disagree on are DRL's and auto-locking doors (you know, the kind that automatically lock when you put the car in gear or go over 5mph or whatever).
There are people who LOVE one or both of these "features", and others who HATE them. I'm in the latter category for both.
There are people who LOVE one or both of these "features", and others who HATE them. I'm in the latter category for both.
"First you need to identify the DRL unit under the drivers dash.
If you or anyone has a Helms manual, you can see a picture of it-I would post it but I am leaving tomorrow for a cross country road trip and I dont have the time.
The DRL unit has a 6 wire harness to it, consisting of 2 black (thats ground) purple, yellow, green, and the wire of object-white.
The unit has 2 sources of power, 2 fused sources and thats why if you remove the fuse for DRL, you get the message in the information cluster. you cannot pull both fuses because the other fuse is common with other necessary items.
The white wire sends out 2V direct to the highbeam lamps.
It does not impact on any other circuit.
to verify that you have the correct harness, all you have to do is dissconnect it from the DRL unit, and of course the DRL lights will not function.
Thats the first step to assure yourself you have the correct harness.
The second step is to reconnect the DRL and backprobe the white wire with a voltmeter, and it should read 2V.
Now you are 100% certain you have the correct harness-no other device on the car throws out 2V as a power supply.
How you cut the white wire is up to you.
you can slice open the protective cover on the harness and cut the wire further down giving you the ability to patch the wire at a later date, or you can manipulate the wire harness and 'pull' the wire from the connector with the pin by releasing the metal pin from the plastic lock within the connector.
The advantage of doing it that way is that you never permanantly altered the wiring of the car and you can reinsert the pin into the harness rendering the car back to factory original condition.
Just make sure to insulate the pin rather than leaving it bare and hanging.
Of course you should do all this without the car on in accessory or running mode, and you should identify the white wire for 2V only with the car in running mode while in park without the parking brake engaged.
After you are done, presto, no DRL, no nag screen, and no load or conflict with any other device in the car.
The reason I chose to disable this way instead of any other wire is because essentially every component on the lighting circuit is still functioning, and because the control units controlling the lighting and other body components are all interrelated, this was the surest way to keep all systems thinking they were operating within normal specs.
The system does not monitor if the 2V is present at the highbeams, only if the DRL unit is functioning."
If you or anyone has a Helms manual, you can see a picture of it-I would post it but I am leaving tomorrow for a cross country road trip and I dont have the time.
The DRL unit has a 6 wire harness to it, consisting of 2 black (thats ground) purple, yellow, green, and the wire of object-white.
The unit has 2 sources of power, 2 fused sources and thats why if you remove the fuse for DRL, you get the message in the information cluster. you cannot pull both fuses because the other fuse is common with other necessary items.
The white wire sends out 2V direct to the highbeam lamps.
It does not impact on any other circuit.
to verify that you have the correct harness, all you have to do is dissconnect it from the DRL unit, and of course the DRL lights will not function.
Thats the first step to assure yourself you have the correct harness.
The second step is to reconnect the DRL and backprobe the white wire with a voltmeter, and it should read 2V.
Now you are 100% certain you have the correct harness-no other device on the car throws out 2V as a power supply.
How you cut the white wire is up to you.
you can slice open the protective cover on the harness and cut the wire further down giving you the ability to patch the wire at a later date, or you can manipulate the wire harness and 'pull' the wire from the connector with the pin by releasing the metal pin from the plastic lock within the connector.
The advantage of doing it that way is that you never permanantly altered the wiring of the car and you can reinsert the pin into the harness rendering the car back to factory original condition.
Just make sure to insulate the pin rather than leaving it bare and hanging.
Of course you should do all this without the car on in accessory or running mode, and you should identify the white wire for 2V only with the car in running mode while in park without the parking brake engaged.
After you are done, presto, no DRL, no nag screen, and no load or conflict with any other device in the car.
The reason I chose to disable this way instead of any other wire is because essentially every component on the lighting circuit is still functioning, and because the control units controlling the lighting and other body components are all interrelated, this was the surest way to keep all systems thinking they were operating within normal specs.
The system does not monitor if the 2V is present at the highbeams, only if the DRL unit is functioning."
09-28-2011, 11:27 AM
#17
You can pull the DRL fuse and you won't get DRLs anymore, but that MID warning will drive you nuts. Pulling the bulbs will also give you the MID warning, and you'll lose your high beams as well.
You can pull the bulbs and put in resistors in place of the bulbs, and that will result in no MID warning, but then you lose your high beams.
I hate DRLs SO MUCH that I have even gone to the point of getting an official Honda HDS tool plugged into my car and looked through ALL the options that the dealer has using their tool, and there is still no option to turn off DRLs even there. Cars in other countries must have a different control module or they have different software/hardware combination that doesn't have DRLs.
I have run out of ideas... as far as I know, no one has succeeded in disabling DRLs on the RL.
09-28-2011, 11:56 AM
#18
Senior Moderator
I have some ideas involving relays and a separate 12v supply from the battery. I am working on using this to make my fogs DRLs. I would like to test it out before posting any schematics though.
09-28-2011, 10:03 PM
#19
thanks, man i thought that post #15 worked or someone did and and succeeded. but as i see not. i was also thinking of wiring the fogs as drls or even going with the route that you would use a relay but that would mean installing hids in the high beams but dont want to do that.
http://www.thexenonstore.com/relay.php
http://www.thexenonstore.com/relay.php
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