To anti seize or not to seize on spark plug?
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Instructor
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To anti seize or not to seize on spark plug?
Ok guys, I'm getting mixed reviews on if I should apply anti seize to the laser iridium spark plug? NGK said you don't need it but other people said it's a good idea along with some dielectric. What are your thoughts?
Thanks
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
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I do the antiseize just remember as the saying goes "a little dab will do ya" no reason to douse it in antiseize and while I dont have as many as wackjum under my belt I have found NO detriment to doing so.
After dealing with 1 frozen plug in a lifetime anything to prevent from happening again is worth it.
I have only done dielectric on 2 cars and both are older, 90's era. Again it wont hurt.
After dealing with 1 frozen plug in a lifetime anything to prevent from happening again is worth it.
I have only done dielectric on 2 cars and both are older, 90's era. Again it wont hurt.
NGK are zinc coated (PDF from NGK provided below). not sure about other brands. I used di-electric once and it caused a misfire since some of it got on the coilpack internals.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...1antisieze.pdf
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...1antisieze.pdf
Senior Moderator
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While a sieze or cross thread is important, it is also very important to torque them correctly on a J-series. The engine can eject the front center plug if not, and even if done correctly, Honda acknowledges 1/600 will anyway.
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Instructor
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That is the specs from the manual. I called Ngk and they told me 18-23ftlbs. Let's just say I probably should have followed the manual. I just "ass-umed " they knew what torque spec there spark plug should be set for in my vehicle since I gave them all this info before picking the right plug.. I'm hoping I didn't cause any damage.
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Its my understanding that the threads are aluminum which is a soft metal. Going past design specs introduces the risk of stripping the threads out. That said, if your plug didn't start spinning, I think you will be okay.
Pro
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I doubled it to 30 ft lbs. That is still not a lot of pressure. I checked them all after 1000 miles and they were all still at 30 ft lbs.
I very much doubt 30 ft lbs could damage the threads but YMMV. I am not saying to do this I am just saying what I did. I don't feel 13 ft lbs is enough with the risk of a plug ejecting in these motors. Also, if you talk to any technician they will tell you they do it by feel.
I very much doubt 30 ft lbs could damage the threads but YMMV. I am not saying to do this I am just saying what I did. I don't feel 13 ft lbs is enough with the risk of a plug ejecting in these motors. Also, if you talk to any technician they will tell you they do it by feel.
Pro
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When you do it by feel you can "feel" when a new spark plug metal gasket crushes. You then tighten it slightly past that point. I prefer to use a torque wrench because I want to know they are all equally tight.
Now it when it comes to race engines techs will spend a lot of time indexing each spark plug to line up with the intake valve. They use spacers to line each plug up. Now that takes some time!
Now it when it comes to race engines techs will spend a lot of time indexing each spark plug to line up with the intake valve. They use spacers to line each plug up. Now that takes some time!
Instructor
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If the threads are of the soft metal kind someone should mention it to Ngk. They said 2002 is prior to them changing to the softer metal.. Yikes
Instructor
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. I was more worried about doing it correct so that I could know how tight it is spec'd out at so I could do it eventually without a torque wrench.
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The Legend has had an aluminum block since at least the 2G (1991?). Only thing I'm not sure about is if the threads are aluminum.
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Service Manual specs call for A/S and 13ft-lbs. I used A/S on my one SP change (torqued to 13) and have had no issues (63K miles so far).
If you don't use A/S, I'd torque them to 18 - 21 ft-lbs, based on the NGK charts for Al heads. IMO, 16 ft-lbs is too low of a torque value for a non A/S install of NGKs. The link to that chart has been posted before, I'll see if I can find it.
Edit: Actually, it's 18-21.6 ft-lbs (scroll down the page a bit):
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...nml#installing
Overall, I think the key may be to match the appropriate torque to which ever method you choose (A/S or no A/S)...
I'd be interested to hear any supporting documentation for this statement.
If you don't use A/S, I'd torque them to 18 - 21 ft-lbs, based on the NGK charts for Al heads. IMO, 16 ft-lbs is too low of a torque value for a non A/S install of NGKs. The link to that chart has been posted before, I'll see if I can find it.
Edit: Actually, it's 18-21.6 ft-lbs (scroll down the page a bit):
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...nml#installing
Overall, I think the key may be to match the appropriate torque to which ever method you choose (A/S or no A/S)...
I'd be interested to hear any supporting documentation for this statement.
see above
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