2005 RL Struts
#2
OEM would be like when the car is new. They are fairly expensive though. I recently ordered a set of KYB front struts but I haven't installed them yet. I am hoping they work out well. I started a thread about it in the suspension section: https://acurazine.com/forums/tires-w...shocks-918135/
#4
Senior Moderator
^Who ran KYB on the RL?
#7
I will post after I get the KYB's installed. I only paid $140 for the pair. If they suck I will get OEM in the spring time. I figured they have to be better than the stock struts with 113K miles on them.
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#8
Sorry if I sound like a broken record, but for anyone who has done this at the dealer, would you mind sharing how much the dealer charged for the complete job, parts and labor, and if it was for front or rear or both.
I was quoted a really high price, I just wanted to compare you can PM me the cost if you like. I would be grateful
I was quoted a really high price, I just wanted to compare you can PM me the cost if you like. I would be grateful
#9
I imagine at a dealer it would probably cost @500 per corner in the front with oem parts and labor. Maybe a little less in the rear but I'm not sure of that because you have to remove the rear seat to get access to the top bolts of the shock.
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Frenetic (12-12-2014)
#10
Senior Moderator
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#11
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Sorry if I sound like a broken record, but for anyone who has done this at the dealer, would you mind sharing how much the dealer charged for the complete job, parts and labor, and if it was for front or rear or both.
I was quoted a really high price, I just wanted to compare you can PM me the cost if you like. I would be grateful
I was quoted a really high price, I just wanted to compare you can PM me the cost if you like. I would be grateful
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projektvertx (12-09-2014)
#12
Pro
iTrader: (1)
The DIY posted is really helpful. This can be done with all hand tools obviously Electric and or air makes it that much easier and can be done in an afternoon easily. The hardest part for me is in the front separating the shock from the fork. Do they make a tool for this to make it easy?
#14
Senior Moderator
Tein Comfort Sport are the most often used coilovers in North America. Largus Harmonics are used frequently in Japan.
Other options that are nearly impossible to find are Tein Street Flex and Mugen.
Other options that are nearly impossible to find are Tein Street Flex and Mugen.
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Frenetic (12-15-2014)
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oo7spy (12-13-2014)
#18
Senior Moderator
The Mugen setup is a coilover. It just doesn't fall into the definition of coilover that some people have because it isn't adjustable. I'm not privy to the Tein status, so I may very well be wrong about availability.
#19
I'm gonna deal in hearsay for a moment:
My brother knew a guy who was extremely expert in automotive technology (sadly, he left us before his time). He was well familiar with the RL. He contended that RL owners should always use OEM parts, specifically including the struts, because they had sensors in them that figured into the calculations of the car's electronic nannies.
I'm open to opinions on this from those of you more knowledgeable than I.
My brother knew a guy who was extremely expert in automotive technology (sadly, he left us before his time). He was well familiar with the RL. He contended that RL owners should always use OEM parts, specifically including the struts, because they had sensors in them that figured into the calculations of the car's electronic nannies.
I'm open to opinions on this from those of you more knowledgeable than I.
#20
Senior Moderator
I don't think the struts themselves have any sensors. However the AFS certainly relies on a vertical motion sensor (spring loaded potentiometer) in the wheel well. In addition, many members have expressed concern about the impacts of changing ride height on the CMBS and ACC systems, but we have to keep in mind that Acura offered a 3/4" drop as a factory accessory.
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#21
What are the chances that all four struts are bad as opposed to just the front? I honestly can't tell if the rears are bad from the ride, but I do get more noise from the front, that subtle "thud."
You think I should just replace the fronts? Anyone kniw if the fronts tend to go more in these or how I can tell if the rear struts are failing?
You think I should just replace the fronts? Anyone kniw if the fronts tend to go more in these or how I can tell if the rear struts are failing?
#22
Senior Moderator
On Legend #1, my rear right failed first. ![Shrug](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif)
I don't think there is any rhyme or reason to which will have a catastrophic failure first other than pot holes or numerous flat tires on one corner.
![Shrug](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif)
I don't think there is any rhyme or reason to which will have a catastrophic failure first other than pot holes or numerous flat tires on one corner.
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Frenetic (12-17-2014)
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oo7spy (12-15-2014)
#24
Senior Moderator
Did you use "shocks" to designate the fronts? (I always forget which one Acura calls which.) If so, yes. I agree.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
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justnspace (12-15-2014)
#25
Former Sponsor
We offer the KYB GR-2 struts on our website.
KYB GR-2 / Excel-G Gas Shocks - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!
These struts are designed to meet or exceed OE quality. They offer a comfortable ride with improved handling.
KYB GR-2 / Excel-G Gas Shocks - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!
These struts are designed to meet or exceed OE quality. They offer a comfortable ride with improved handling.
#27
Senior Moderator
What makes you say it's not a coil setup? Was it the shock absorbers only?
#29
Senior Moderator
That's why I mentioned the popular definition thing. A coilover by definition is a setup where the spring (coil) is placed over the shock. As I am sure you know, the RL front suspension is a coilover and the rear suspension is not. I think it makes it easiest for suppliers to call them coilovers to indicate that you are buying both springs and shock absorbers, and many "tuners" will argue that if it's not adjustable, it's not a coilover. It's just a technicality and not worth getting hung up on.
FWIW, I find it interesting that Honda calls the front absorbers "struts" (or they used to) and the rears "shocks". Now the online manual says shock absorber assembly for both. I don't know if there is a definitive difference between the two or not.
FWIW, I find it interesting that Honda calls the front absorbers "struts" (or they used to) and the rears "shocks". Now the online manual says shock absorber assembly for both. I don't know if there is a definitive difference between the two or not.
#30
I'm gonna deal in hearsay for a moment:
My brother knew a guy who was extremely expert in automotive technology (sadly, he left us before his time). He was well familiar with the RL. He contended that RL owners should always use OEM parts, specifically including the struts, because they had sensors in them that figured into the calculations of the car's electronic nannies.
I'm open to opinions on this from those of you more knowledgeable than I.
My brother knew a guy who was extremely expert in automotive technology (sadly, he left us before his time). He was well familiar with the RL. He contended that RL owners should always use OEM parts, specifically including the struts, because they had sensors in them that figured into the calculations of the car's electronic nannies.
I'm open to opinions on this from those of you more knowledgeable than I.
#31
I had the KYB struts installed today. I only went for a quick ride but I can already tell they are better than the 115k miles original struts. I will post again after I get to put a few hundred miles on them. Hopefully they hold up for a few years. If not it only cost me $140 for the parts and $60 to have them installed.
#32
I had the KYB struts installed today. I only went for a quick ride but I can already tell they are better than the 115k miles original struts. I will post again after I get to put a few hundred miles on them. Hopefully they hold up for a few years. If not it only cost me $140 for the parts and $60 to have them installed.
#33
#34
That's why I mentioned the popular definition thing. A coilover by definition is a setup where the spring (coil) is placed over the shock. As I am sure you know, the RL front suspension is a coilover and the rear suspension is not. I think it makes it easiest for suppliers to call them coilovers to indicate that you are buying both springs and shock absorbers, and many "tuners" will argue that if it's not adjustable, it's not a coilover. It's just a technicality and not worth getting hung up on.
FWIW, I find it interesting that Honda calls the front absorbers "struts" (or they used to) and the rears "shocks". Now the online manual says shock absorber assembly for both. I don't know if there is a definitive difference between the two or not.
FWIW, I find it interesting that Honda calls the front absorbers "struts" (or they used to) and the rears "shocks". Now the online manual says shock absorber assembly for both. I don't know if there is a definitive difference between the two or not.
#35
I'd be interested to hear from anyone on the board who runs the KYB's to hear what they think.
#36
If anyone is curious what my local dealer quoted me for parts and labor to change out all four struts, here it is: $2,000.
The parts were close to $1,000 + 7 hours in labor to do it @ roughly $135 an hour. The front struts were $100 more expensive in total than the rears.
That price also includes a full alignment.
The service advisor, whom I've known since I purchased the car and kind of trust, says it is very labor intensive, as others have indicated.
Ouch.
But I'm still going to get it done through them.
The parts were close to $1,000 + 7 hours in labor to do it @ roughly $135 an hour. The front struts were $100 more expensive in total than the rears.
That price also includes a full alignment.
The service advisor, whom I've known since I purchased the car and kind of trust, says it is very labor intensive, as others have indicated.
Ouch.
But I'm still going to get it done through them.
#38
Na, considering my past history with "independent" auto shops, I consider it well spent.
Prior to me purchasing this car, I use to skimp and go out and find the most "competent," non-dealer mechanic I could find. Pure nightmares and I ended up spending way more trying to fix their mistakes then had I just went to the dealer instead.
For all the trouble I went through in the past, and considering I've had zero problems with them over the past eight years on my car, that's piece of mind and money well spent.
Prior to me purchasing this car, I use to skimp and go out and find the most "competent," non-dealer mechanic I could find. Pure nightmares and I ended up spending way more trying to fix their mistakes then had I just went to the dealer instead.
For all the trouble I went through in the past, and considering I've had zero problems with them over the past eight years on my car, that's piece of mind and money well spent.
#39
Burning Brakes
I get the need for piece of mind, but You are paying about double, and that would bother me more. This is not a difficult job, can't really screw it up. It's a three hour job by a competent mechanic. Nothing hard about changing the fronts, bolt on the bottom, few bolts on top, spring compressor. Rear is only slowed by the need to pull the back seat, which is 15-20 mins at most. two bolts. I'd guess parts are about 500 or less. I haven't done it on my car with 102k miles, but when time comes I'll look to do it myself.
Last edited by rlerman; 12-31-2014 at 04:02 PM.
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