105k miles service
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
105k miles service
my car is approaching the 105k mile point. acura said i need to do coolant, timing belt and tensioner, water pump, plugs, valve adjust, and accessory belt. it was gonna be 1700 dollars. they also said that my car might be do for more than that. they would have to run the maintenance codes and see what it was do for. does anyone know what i should do at this milestone. i think i can do some of it myself. i accidently reset my oil life so they said that it wont give me the codes i need to see what maintenance to do. just didnt want to spend 2grand after i just bought the car.
thanks
ryan
thanks
ryan
#3
Burning Brakes
With the exception of the valves, the MID will tell you when all of these need to be done so pay attention when they flash and don't just delete/reset the codes.
At 105k, it's reasonable for the timing belt to be replaced and you always replace the water pump at the same time as well as accessory belt.
For reference, here are the codes for your services:
4. timing belt, spark plugs, water pump
5. Engine coolant
According to the service manual, valves are only adjusted if they are noisy.
Prices vary, but timing belt and plug service is roughly $1000, coolant replacement is about $60. If the valves need adjustment, it's about $300. These are dealer prices, third party will be considerably cheaper. $1700 seems a bit high.
At 105k, it's reasonable for the timing belt to be replaced and you always replace the water pump at the same time as well as accessory belt.
For reference, here are the codes for your services:
4. timing belt, spark plugs, water pump
5. Engine coolant
According to the service manual, valves are only adjusted if they are noisy.
Prices vary, but timing belt and plug service is roughly $1000, coolant replacement is about $60. If the valves need adjustment, it's about $300. These are dealer prices, third party will be considerably cheaper. $1700 seems a bit high.
#5
Senior Moderator
Agreed that the valves need to be checked before adjustment. I think coolant replacement is a DIY. Call your local Honda dealers. A lot of people have had luck here with them b/c they charge less per hour.
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
the motor sounds tight. i have had hondas in the past that were obvious when the valves needed lashed. so will i get the service codes before my oil life gets lower or will i have to wait till its gets closer to 0%
#7
Pro
Don't change the anti-freeze before you replace the timing belt/water pump. The tech will just dump it anyway into the recycle tank and charge you for new Acura antifreeze. The hoses and water pump will make sure that all of the fluid is out of the system when they come off, so it will be necessary to replenish with new. Since the covers have to come off for a valve adjustment, it is easy to pop in new spark plugs. You will also be charged for two sets of valve cover gaskets/seals, if the valves are checked. This is an all day job for a tech, so plan accordingly. The tech can go over your car, rotate the tires, change the oil/filter, clean your air filter, cabin filter and you can go for a long drive knowing it is all good to go. Save your cash or toss the plastic, it won't be cheap. Hey! At least you won't be going in to the dealer often for repairs like you will with some other cars that are out there.
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#9
100K is a major service milestone. You may save some money if you find an independent shop that can replace your timing belt and water pump. In my experience, it is worth it taking your car to the certified Acura service. Depending on how you drive, it may not need all the fluid changes (only top ups possibly). You should also switch to full synthetic oil if you haven't already.
my car is approaching the 105k mile point. acura said i need to do coolant, timing belt and tensioner, water pump, plugs, valve adjust, and accessory belt. it was gonna be 1700 dollars. they also said that my car might be do for more than that. they would have to run the maintenance codes and see what it was do for. does anyone know what i should do at this milestone. i think i can do some of it myself. i accidently reset my oil life so they said that it wont give me the codes i need to see what maintenance to do. just didnt want to spend 2grand after i just bought the car.
thanks
ryan
thanks
ryan
#11
Instructor
I bought my 07 RL with 82k miles and when i opted for a syntetic,the service advisor said that he doesnt recomend it since the car has high milleage and the engine already got used to more thick conv. oil.He said that if i put syntetic now,it will cause leaks since it is thinner.Dont now to believe this or not?
#13
Senior Moderator
Ryan, there is no issue running 0w-20. What state are you located in?
Bult, there is no issue with today's oil switching between conventional and synthetic. It is actually recommended that you run conventional for the first 20k before switching to synthetic. Something about the seals in that first 20k will burn more oil in the long run if synthetic is used from the get go. However, after that there shouldn't be an issue with either type. Did your adviser suggest changing oil every 3k mi too?
Bult, there is no issue with today's oil switching between conventional and synthetic. It is actually recommended that you run conventional for the first 20k before switching to synthetic. Something about the seals in that first 20k will burn more oil in the long run if synthetic is used from the get go. However, after that there shouldn't be an issue with either type. Did your adviser suggest changing oil every 3k mi too?
#14
Advanced
Thread Starter
mine did not. i dont really have an adviser, just myself. i opted to run the 5w20 valvoline full synthetic. they had a special for $23 i got 5.1 quarts and a filter, so i bought two of each.
#17
Instructor
Ryan, there is no issue running 0w-20. What state are you located in?
Bult, there is no issue with today's oil switching between conventional and synthetic. It is actually recommended that you run conventional for the first 20k before switching to synthetic. Something about the seals in that first 20k will burn more oil in the long run if synthetic is used from the get go. However, after that there shouldn't be an issue with either type. Did your adviser suggest changing oil every 3k mi too?
Bult, there is no issue with today's oil switching between conventional and synthetic. It is actually recommended that you run conventional for the first 20k before switching to synthetic. Something about the seals in that first 20k will burn more oil in the long run if synthetic is used from the get go. However, after that there shouldn't be an issue with either type. Did your adviser suggest changing oil every 3k mi too?
#19
Advanced
Take it to Honda store, considerably cheaper to have done due to the amount of Honda stores compared to Acura (hence the high labor rate) most of the parts needed for that particular service cross to Honda. In my part town that job will go for between 1200-1400 depending on the store you take it too. we do alot of Acura work at my Honda store.
so that is always an option.
so that is always an option.
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lilryan (09-29-2011)
#20
Pro
That is where I have always had my Acura's serviced since it is 150 miles in either direction to a Acura dealer. The Honda agency has always taken good care of me when I am doing something that I cannot do myself (timing belts/trans service)
#21
Advanced
Thread Starter
thanks for the responses guys. i called my my mechanic back home and i will have him do the service. is this the kit i should get
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-...item4841d69695
maybe it is a little overkill. is it a good price. what all should i replace when i am doing the timing belt. is there a cheaper place to get the parts.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-...item4841d69695
maybe it is a little overkill. is it a good price. what all should i replace when i am doing the timing belt. is there a cheaper place to get the parts.
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