Was getting my RL oil changed at the Honda dealer and asked to see if they can replace or turn my front rotors and they told me that i have to take it to acura dealer because the rotors was pressed on and dont have the tool to take them off. Is this true? If not id rather get more of a performance rotor and do it myself when i get back home from out of town. I searched already and wasnt finding a answer. Thanks

 

Someone doesnt know what they're talking about. Go elsewhere

 

+1, run fast from that dealer.

 

i just posted about the brakes i just got. and the rotors have two screws that hold them on.

 

You need an impact screwdriver to remove most Honda/Acura rotors. It is like $9 and you can get them at any auto/hardware store and there is no way a Honda dealer doesnt have it. They are dumb lol

 

Impact screwdriver? Never needed one of those before. Never had a honda before this one so I guess that makes sense. I tried with a regular screwdriver and WD40 and didnt get it to move at all. Looks like I will have to get one of those impact screwdrivers. BTW How did you get the brake caliper bolts loose? I can get a ratchet with an extension on the mounting bolts but there is no real room to get any muscle on it.

 

I had a Honda Accord (03) back in the day and I remember thinking why wont this damn rotor come off.. then i saw "the screw!" I got the impact screwdriver which basically you just put in the screw, then hit the top of the impact screwdriver with a hammer it will force the screw to turn and it will loosen it. I have air tools so I used them for pretty much everything.

Tom

 

Wow!! You have to let us know which Honda Dealer that was...

 

South Tacoma Honda

I was thinking they didnt know what they was thinking. Thats good then cause now im going to buy my rotors and do it myself.
Theres a questions a person aboved ask about taking the calipers off, are they just as easy as a single piston?

 

yea easier

 

Thanks

 

the press is needed if you r gonna swap out the entire hub.... cuz the bearing normally go bad if you r doing that.... but as far as changing rotors, "DON'T" do it.... it's not necessary to have a press.... I know this cuz I've installed an OEM Brembo brake on my TL for that you need new knockles + original hub + new bearings + same old hub + new rotors + calipers.....

 

?

 

Look, some of the older hondas did have a hub-over-rotor design in the front. Basically, the rotor was bolted onto the back of the hub. So the hub did have to be pressed-out to remove/replace the rotor.

I have yet to even look at my rotors, although they do need to be machined (not sure if warranty covers this), but I doubt that acura would've gone that route.

Further if you look at the pictures rtr provided in his post on his new rotors (assuming they're pictures of the front rotors) it's very obvious that the RL does not have the hub-over-rotor design.

 

I beleive the rotors that bolted from behind were only used on Accords in 90-91 and Preludes of the same year with f22.


Those are the only cars I have ever seen that design on. the use to have a machine that would turn those rotors on the car.

 

thanks everyone been so busy running my business i just never have time for anything. I ordered my new rotors and pads and ill post pics if someone can help me with that.

 

im trying to post pics for my rotor change so give me alittle time to get this figured out

 

ok i got the pics working but they are really big so hope this is ok.

(1)have to remove 10mm bolts holding the brake line so when you take the caliper off you have freedom to move the caliper around

(2)take off main bolts, there are 2 one on top and bottom

(3)remove safety spring pin (not actual name) so you can take out the brake pad pins. pull safety spring pin from middle first

(4) remove the pins holding the brake pads. i used need nose to help.

 

(5) careful when you pull the last pin everything falls apart

(6) Take out your screws holding the rotor. i used a 1/4 cordless impact but the screw came out pretty easy. i might not of needed the impact.

(7) i used a peace of wood and c-clamps and when tightening i used a hard plastic mallet and tapped then tighten again and tapped and it popped off.i didnt tap that hard but a medium tap i guess. Im sure some people dont recommend this but work fine for me.

(8) use a brass brush to clean off hub

 

(9) put your new rotor on.

(10) some people im sure does this diffrent but i used the old pad and cleaning rag so the c-clamp doesnt scratch anything and pressed back in the pistons on both sides. i removed the brake reservoir cap before this

(11) brake pad squeaker is on the opposite side of the acura letters.These pads are the Red Stuff

(12) simple put back together and here it is

 

(13)another view

(14)and the rim put back on

(15)after 15 miles. must take it easy on braking for the first few hundred miles i believe. im taking it easy on the first 500 miles. I notice a ruff sound coming from the brakes just a faint sound and can feel in peddle and steering wheel but has gotten much better after about 15miles and now its been about 40 miles and i cant feel it anymore.

Wanted to say thanks to my friend Adel for helping me. My first time doing this type of brake other then single piston. I just got done driving again and feels pretty much normal now. I hope this help other owners like myself feel more comfortable about changing there rotors and pads. thanks everyone

 

anyone know how to or maybe maderator can edit thread title to replacing 05 RL rotors and pads

 

You're a good man, TheOne305, for doing this and providing pics. My 05 RL is due for a brake job in the very near future.

I looked thru the thread and didn't see any pricing. How much (and what kind) were the rotors and where did you get them?

The Dealer quoted me $450 for the front brake job. I think I can upgrade the rotors/pads and do it myself for alot less.

 

i got everything for $400. The rotors are EBC Brakes Sport Rotors for about $300 and the pads are EBC Brakes Red Stuff Brake Pads for $100. I now notice that the brakes really grab now when braking. I slow down to early when coming to a stop and have to let off the brake sometimes. Im really impressed with this setup and definately recommend. I race my RL all the time especially around corners. My next upgrade will be RonJon 19" Vega's and H&R sport springs and i think ill put the springs on myself with pics to show everyone

 

those are fake cross drilled pads with 3 slots?? how does that feel compared to real cross drilled??

 

i dont know how you come up with the whole fake deal. these are a type of rotor thats a diffrent design not some cheap knock off rotor

http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com...C-Sport-Rotors

 

nice, i like the way the slots go all the way to the out edge of the rotor. no way for debris to build up

 

yeah the slots are wide. ill see how they do over time. right now they are really brake dusting but i figured thats probly normal until break in

 

supposedly the reds will dust some until about 3000 miles or so of regular driving. We will see if this is the case as I myself have installed the same pads.

 

well you have dimpled rotors which is not cross drilled because the holes don't go through the rotor. With out the hole right through you dont get the same effect. And also i looked at the link picture and it looks different than the rotors on your car if you look at the shine, dimple pattern and amount of slots.

 

Im still at the part where you come in saying FAKE, like i must of said that i had crossed drilled rotors . Just because i have different type of rotors doesnt mean they are fake. I can tell your one of those haters. Basically your trying so say i didnt buy them from there. your seeing a picture and it states that it might be in two different colors and they only show one.So whats your point?

 

didnt mean to say hater so my bad. look at the video on the website(7:13) they have for ebc and you will see the exact same rotor as mine with different mounting holes well i dont think that one mounts to a vehicle but use for video. its not surprising that the rotor looks slightly different then the picture, i mean how many times have you seen the little words " actual item might be different from picture" or something close to that, on, i dont know on how many websites? as for shine, well that could be more polished for advertisement purposes.

 

i think they look good...

 

i'm not a hater at all, I just hate to see people spend money and not get the full result/benefit. you'd be surprised how hard it is to get better quality than stock honda/acura. i think a lot of people here forget they own the top of the line car, which requires top of the line parts to maintain the cars full quality and performance. im glad you posted the process and the photos for everyone. i actually had one bent caliper bolt so im glad i did the brakes myself. it doesn't hurt to squirt some lube on all the caliper bolts also.

 

you don't want to put any type of oil on the caliper bolts. They might back out if you do.

 

just because they are not cross drilled doesnt mean its not a quality part. i notice a big difference with braking. My brakes grab really good now.

 

EBC rotors and pads are quality parts, but the better braking is coming from the pad material.

slotted, drilled, dimpled are all to keep rotors cool and prevent loss of braking due to outgassing and heat.


I have only ever experienced loss of brakes one time due to heat/gas and it was cause I was continiously pushing a car with oem pads/rotors.

 

old hatch you may notice that the knuckle is Aluminum and the bolt is steal there for when taking out you clean the holes in the knuckle and the bolt with brake cleaner and tinny bit of WD40 for reassembly. the last thing you want to do is strip your knuckle when putting your calipers back on. Just a tip

 

Hate to stir the pot, but here is a link discussing the benefits of drilling and slotting rotors vs plain rotors...in short the benefits look to be reduced weight along with removing water
from the rotor surface...:

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...dissolved.html

 

Bump so I can follow this when I swap my rotors