05 RL with dying battery
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
05 RL with dying battery
The past few weeks ive been having issues with the battery dying. if i leave the car sitting for more than 1 day the battery is completely drained. I had the car checked and there is a small current draw when the car is off if i remember correctly it is around 1.2 amps
I see there was a recall for the XM reciever. i do not use XM at all can i disconnect the XM and have the car function properly?
Headlights do not stay on AUTO
Battery is 4 months old and is testing good with no dead cells
I have no mods on the car besides wheels and HID foglights
I have Removed My amp and sub from the car for over 2 months now. No exposed or live wires.
I see there was a recall for the XM reciever. i do not use XM at all can i disconnect the XM and have the car function properly?
Headlights do not stay on AUTO
Battery is 4 months old and is testing good with no dead cells
I have no mods on the car besides wheels and HID foglights
I have Removed My amp and sub from the car for over 2 months now. No exposed or live wires.
#6
Pro
Most likely you will have to use a test light or voltage meter to isolate the fuse as to which circuit has that much of a draw. That is more than just a little draw, that can really drain a battery quick as you are finding out. Put your test light between the disconnected positive cable and the positive post so the voltage flows through the light. The draw will make the light glow. When you have isolated the fuse, the light will go out. Then the fun part begins trying to find out what is on that circuit. You have your rear window heater on by accident? Left a light on inside the car or trunk?
#7
Safety Car
It may give you a set of items to tick off the list of potential gremlins, although if you have not been having issues before....
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#8
Senior Moderator
Alfa is on the right track here. Any thing close to or over an Amp is significant. I could be wrong, but I don't think the XM would be on an always hot fuse. Since this draw is occurring while the car is off, you know it has to be a fuse that is always hot. Start with those fuses first. If that doesn't isolate the problem, then I would say a relay for a fuse that isn't always hot is your problem. If you have a relay stuck, there could be a device that is normally only on when the ignition is and is drawing the current. Good luck. The service manual in the garage has a relay.pdf that should give you a good start.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
thanks guys ive been going through the car all day. i cannot for the life of me figure it out. going through schematics over and over again.
The one thing i found extremely odd. when i was checking all the wires on the factory amplifier i noticed that all the speaker Outputs are all showing HOT. Even the - lead for the speaker is still showing Hot. i cannot figure it out.
But the Audio system works great all the speakers work fine so im left stumped on this part
The one thing i found extremely odd. when i was checking all the wires on the factory amplifier i noticed that all the speaker Outputs are all showing HOT. Even the - lead for the speaker is still showing Hot. i cannot figure it out.
But the Audio system works great all the speakers work fine so im left stumped on this part
#10
Senior Moderator
What do you mean the outputs for the speakers are showing hot? I assume you are testing the voltage to ground on these wires...? Try unplugging the amp and checking the current draw on the battery. Do the wires show hot while the ignition is on and no music is playing?
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok i have some results. and im thinking its something with the amp that is causing the most draw.
Car locked up for 10 mins no doors or trunk open just hood. 1.8 Amp Draw
Acura Link Disconnected All doors and trunk closed hood open 1.08 Amp Draw
Disconnect Amp (ANC still plugged in) doors and truck closed hood open 0.25 Amp Draw
is there any kind of recall on the amp. im going to check the wiring and relays to make sure nothing is touching or grounding out
Car locked up for 10 mins no doors or trunk open just hood. 1.8 Amp Draw
Acura Link Disconnected All doors and trunk closed hood open 1.08 Amp Draw
Disconnect Amp (ANC still plugged in) doors and truck closed hood open 0.25 Amp Draw
is there any kind of recall on the amp. im going to check the wiring and relays to make sure nothing is touching or grounding out
#13
Instructor
I'm on the same boat. I have been disconnecting Negative cable from the battery If car is sitting for more than 15hrs. No Mods on HID, speakers or Radio. ( Stock 05 RL ).
#14
Pro
Guss_90, you have to do exactly what has been outlined above by isolating the fuses/relays as to where the source of the draw is. Electrical issues are charged by time on the clock to resolve, not flag time. This is why dealers make money on these because they are all distinct issues. Even new cars from the factory come with electrical issues that drive techs crazy. You wouldn't believe some of the stories about where electrical issues arise and where on the car they are. I have had to strip out an entire interior looking for a break in a harness that ran along the bottom of the door, or behind the dash board in a wiring loom.
The use of an electrical meter is a great way to resolve the electrical draw. I would start pulling fuses and relays until I got a zero draw.
The use of an electrical meter is a great way to resolve the electrical draw. I would start pulling fuses and relays until I got a zero draw.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
another thing i noticed my ipod charges while the car is off. i am using a USA spec ipod adapter and it has no wires running to it it just has a big cd changer cable connected to it. i couldnt see exact model it is wrapped in some sort of adhesive backed padding. It was a Dealer installed item back in 2007
#16
Instructor
Got the car into Acura East Brunswick NJ yesterdat for check up on A/C repair and Battery draw. Hopefully they Fix my A/C and also see what they say about electric issue.
#17
Instructor
Acura found the problem with battery and A/C are related.
they said that A/C relay got bad and made compressor
stay on all time and drain my battery. .
For this reason they are chaning the A/C relay , A/C compressor and Stator. ( If the realy was the issue and bad compressor, why are they cahnging my staror )
Anyway, better to put a new stator and they are charging $ 1,700 parts + Labor. .
they said that A/C relay got bad and made compressor
stay on all time and drain my battery. .
For this reason they are chaning the A/C relay , A/C compressor and Stator. ( If the realy was the issue and bad compressor, why are they cahnging my staror )
Anyway, better to put a new stator and they are charging $ 1,700 parts + Labor. .
#18
Pro
*choking sounds* whew...thank gosh they found the problem. The relay being stuck on, the stator coil could have burned up. That is one bad smelly problem. This is the coil that activates the electric clutch to turn on and off the A/C compressor. not all A/C compressors come with a new stator, hence you have to pay for the extra part. Item #12
#20
Instructor
car was picked up from dealer and it has cool air blowing. That put a smile on my face :-) I let the car sit for 2 days to check if battery will drain and It didn't. The car started right away.
List + price of service.
Part # Description $
39794 SDA A05 Relay assy 32.94
38810-RJA 305 ac compressor 850.00
38924-RJA A01 Stator Set 116.00
38900-RJA A01 ac Clutch Set 304.00
Labor 500.00
Good Service @ Open Road Acura East Brunswick NJ.
List + price of service.
Part # Description $
39794 SDA A05 Relay assy 32.94
38810-RJA 305 ac compressor 850.00
38924-RJA A01 Stator Set 116.00
38900-RJA A01 ac Clutch Set 304.00
Labor 500.00
Good Service @ Open Road Acura East Brunswick NJ.
The following users liked this post:
HEAVY_RL (07-18-2011)
#21
Pro
Thank you for sharing your information on your billing and how you feel about the dealership. We as a group need to know who does good work. Enjoy the cool, we know its been hot.
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