When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey everyone, new to the site here. I have a 2016 RDX 2wd advanced package. Since I had the car there has been transmission issues, with rough shifting where it seems to catch on the downshift, and is jumpy on the up shift and will sometimes jump off starts as it feels like initially there is no acceleration on throttle and then it will kick in and lurch. I have had it at the dealer multiple times they have done a transmission flush, software update and they have driven it to see if there are any automatic snapshot capture that register any issues and no dice. The service manager literally says its something different anytime I bring it in. One time he says the transmissions are bad in these cars and the next time he says the torque converters are the issue and other days he says there are no issues. I went in and drove the car with them and had them take data snapshots when I thought I felt something. There was on really bad incident that on the throttle the car lurched during the shift into 3rd. They claimed there was nothing wrong with any of the data when the Acura engineers reviewed it. I'm skeptical if the dealer even sent the data to Acura, but I'm at my wits end here. Has anyone had similar issues and does anyone have any ideas on what I should do next?
Haha yeah it wasn't really in the cards at the time but I'm moving to a different state now. but I'm just wondering if anyone has had this issue and if they have any success in resolving it
You can try muzzling the VCM (variable cylinder management) This is very popular in other Hondas that use this drivetrain.
What they do, with varying levels of sophistication and cost, is plug in between the coolant sensor and the engine wiring harness
and trick the engine computer into thinking that the engine is not quite warmed up enough to shut down cylinders. All V-6, all the time.
Folks report either a negligible fuel consumption hit to about 1 MPG.
The units go from a simple resistor, to one that comes with a couple of them to swap out, to one that has a dial to change it.
The two most expensive ones, S-VCM and the newest, VCMTUNER II will show an overheated engine on the instrument panel.
VCMTUNER II also reports real temps to the computer if the engine is idling for a while, this helps mechanics do idle re-learns and such.
The simplest ones are very easy to remove in case you want to take it in for warranty work. All use factory connectors.
Please keep in mind, when Googling and reading about this that Honda did use some experimental low friction piston rings in some model years of this V-6.
Those were no longer in use by the time our RDXs got a V-6 in 2013. But all VCM engines can foul the spark plugs of the unused cylinders.
It also causes what you may be experiencing, the going into and out of VCM as the trans shifts. The Honda dealer cannot suggest to muzzle, even if they know that would fix it.
You can try muzzling the VCM (variable cylinder management) This is very popular in other Hondas that use this drivetrain.
What they do, with varying levels of sophistication and cost, is plug in between the coolant sensor and the engine wiring harness
and trick the engine computer into thinking that the engine is not quite warmed up enough to shut down cylinders. All V-6, all the time.
Folks report either a negligible fuel consumption hit to about 1 MPG.
The units go from a simple resistor, to one that comes with a couple of them to swap out, to one that has a dial to change it.
The two most expensive ones, S-VCM and the newest, VCMTUNER II will show an overheated engine on the instrument panel.
VCMTUNER II also reports real temps to the computer if the engine is idling for a while, this helps mechanics do idle re-learns and such.
The simplest ones are very easy to remove in case you want to take it in for warranty work. All use factory connectors.
Please keep in mind, when Googling and reading about this that Honda did use some experimental low friction piston rings in some model years of this V-6.
Those were no longer in use by the time our RDXs got a V-6 in 2013. But all VCM engines can foul the spark plugs of the unused cylinders.
It also causes what you may be experiencing, the going into and out of VCM as the trans shifts. The Honda dealer cannot suggest to muzzle, even if they know that would fix it.
Ah man this makes so much sense! Thanks for this... I didn't even realize they shut down cylinders in these engines... Interesting how they don't advertise that at all. And I guess you are referring to the sub 2013 years with the vibration and the oil consumption right? Like all the stuff about damaging your engine in the VCMTUNERII info?
And just to clarify there is going to be an overtemp light or it will show higher temp all the time for the two most expensive units and not for the resistors? Will this negate the usage of the temp gauge to identify engine issues? Also, this is for my wife's car so I probably want the best one that has minimal impact and is easy to adjust if need be. So I'm thinking of S-VCM or VCM tuner, which one is better as their price is similar.
Both the S-VCM & VCM Tuner II show elevated engine temps on the gauge. None of the simple ones do. Both of those are kind of obvious because they both
require a wire to the battery in order to work. Only the VCM Tuner II shows the real temp when idling to the computer or a scan device. It is the mechanics favorite over at the Odyclub.
Which one to use depends on a few things. Like how many miles are on your RDX and if you will be taking it into a dealer for warranty work. The simple ones are both easy to remove and look so factory that folks forget to remove them and the dealer never notices. You could get the cheapest one to try and see if it fixes your issue, then go to the more expensive and involved to install if you find that it does.
Both the S-VCM & VCM Tuner II show elevated engine temps on the gauge. None of the simple ones do. Both of those are kind of obvious because they both
require a wire to the battery in order to work. Only the VCM Tuner II shows the real temp when idling to the computer or a scan device. It is the mechanics favorite over at the Odyclub.
Which one to use depends on a few things. Like how many miles are on your RDX and if you will be taking it into a dealer for warranty work. The simple ones are both easy to remove and look so factory that folks forget to remove them and the dealer never notices. You could get the cheapest one to try and see if it fixes your issue, then go to the more expensive and involved to install if you find that it does.
Thanks for this info, the one thing I was concerned about was what if actual engine temp is too high, this resistor system will inhibit the overtemp feature with the resistor inline. I found this blog which is very useful and I think I am going to go with the S-VCM controller which ensures that if the temp goes above a certain limit the vcm suppression is removed and the actual engine temp is shown. It's also a bit cheaper than the others. And my car is around 30k miles and I will be taking it for more dealer service, I'll just make sure to remove it when I go in.
Thanks for this info, the one thing I was concerned about was what if actual engine temp is too high, this resistor system will inhibit the overtemp feature with the resistor inline. I found this blog which is very useful and I think I am going to go with the S-VCM controller which ensures that if the temp goes above a certain limit the vcm suppression is removed and the actual engine temp is shown. It's also a bit cheaper than the others. And my car is around 30k miles and I will be taking it for more dealer service, I'll just make sure to remove it when I go in.
Hey thanks for chiming in! Good to know about the max life, I saw all the battles and debates about it not being approved. Do you think this would void the warranty? If vcm doesn't fix everything I think I may try this but I'm concerned because we have the extended warranty.... Shouldn't have bought that probably....
Hey thanks for chiming in! Good to know about the max life, I saw all the battles and debates about it not being approved. Do you think this would void the warranty? If vcm doesn't fix everything I think I may try this but I'm concerned because we have the extended warranty.... Shouldn't have bought that probably....
Valvoline MaxLife ATF labeling has a "will not void warranty statement" for their recommendations and reiterates the FTC's interpretation of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. This means the under current interpretation of the law...Honda/Acura cannot legally void your warranty for using MaxLife or the S-VCM Controller for that matter.
Having said that...would I take a chance getting into a warranty coverage legal battle? Probably not...especially if my vehicle was asymptomatic with DW-1. If I were having transmission issues and had given the dealership ample opportunity to correct the problem(s) with documentation...then I'd probably go ahead and switch. If nothing changed, I'd go back to OEM fluid...if MaxLife made a difference I'd keep using it and be prepared to assert my rights if the situation called for it.
My suggestion to you would be go ahead and try the S-VCM Controller 1st to see if you enjoy a change in transmission behavior as some others here have. If still symptomatic after adding S-VCM Controller...then give the MaxLife a try.
The vcm controller will show slightly lower temp's on the temp gauge in the car,,not higher. What it will do, if the engine does go to overheat, the electronics will then shoot the right temp to the gauge , to let you know of the overheating. I have on on my ride and would not go back to the OEM system,,worth every dime of what I paid. I' going to do a system flush with Maxlife Trans fluid before long and change out the filter and maybe add a trans cooler as well. I'm thinking these cars need the added cooling factor to keep the transmissions happy.
Nope. But maybe its because I drive my RDX like an SUV and not a sports car. In other words I drive it gently. I also do not have mega-miles on it. It shifts up and down ultra smoothly.
But reading this and other posts like it on this forum, cripes, it sounds like we are driving a car from the big-three in Detroit.
Nope. But maybe its because I drive my RDX like an SUV and not a sports car. In other words I drive it gently. I also do not have mega-miles on it. It shifts up and down ultra smoothly.
But reading this and other posts like it on this forum, cripes, it sounds like we are driving a car from the big-three in Detroit.
Honda V6 transmission driveability issues didn't begin with the 2nd Gen RDX...nor is this forum the only place you'll read about those issues. It would only take a few keystrokes entered into your favorite search engine to demonstrate that for yourself and see the volumes written on the topic.
These Honda V6 transmission driveability issues...whether the platform is a minivan, SUV, truck or sports sedan are not blamed on -or- don't appear to connected to driving habits or mileage. There's more than a couple TSB's out there on the matter and to my knowledge...none of them direct the owner to drive more "gently" -or- that there's nothing which can be done because the vehicle has reached a certain mileage mark.
Is this a quality issue with these transmissions themselves? IMO and experience...no. I think it's a combination or singularly one or the other of the OEM ATF or VCM system. It's my firm belief that once that small adjustment is made (MaxLife ATF and/or VCM deactivation)...these transmissions are rock solid for the long run.
I actually have this V-6 platform on an old Odyssey with the second most troublesome trans ever mated to it (the 99-01 4 speed was the worst)
I actually have close to 240k on the original transmission! I drive it like a bat outa hockey sticks and load it down with tools. I think the main reason
it has lasted this long is frequent trans fluid changes. Like every other oil change or every 15k or so. The current oem fluid is much better than the original.
The 6 speed in the RDX is as good as it ever got. Honda is actually using a trans made by ZF in the latest Odyssey. (& probably the MDX when it gets a redesign)
Poolman, remember that only the S-VCM & the VCMTuner II will report an overheat to the gauge. Be careful using generic terms like vcm controller, you never know who might
read this and not realize the differences in all the devices.
Well we'll see. I never seem to have any issues with any of my cars that I bought new and some of them have been owned for a long time (14 years). Mind you, the RDX is my first car with an automagic transmission.
I actually have this V-6 platform on an old Odyssey with the second most troublesome trans ever mated to it (the 99-01 4 speed was the worst)
I actually have close to 240k on the original transmission! I drive it like a bat outa hockey sticks and load it down with tools. I think the main reason
it has lasted this long is frequent trans fluid changes. Like every other oil change or every 15k or so. The current oem fluid is much better than the original.
The 6 speed in the RDX is as good as it ever got. Honda is actually using a trans made by ZF in the latest Odyssey. (& probably the MDX when it gets a redesign)
Poolman, remember that only the S-VCM & the VCMTuner II will report an overheat to the gauge. Be careful using generic terms like vcm controller, you never know who might
read this and not realize the differences in all the devices.
Thanks for that Egads,,you are right as rain about not recognizing the different manufacturers of the controllers, and the problems that might cause. Got to add, the Maxlife trans fluid worked great in my car and it was replaced with the OEM fluid at a Honda Dealer, no less.
Hey everyone, would sending a sample of transmission fluid to get tested help prove anything as far a getting Acura to so something? Everytime we being it in for a test drive it never acts up. Then you drive it off the lot and it drives like crap. I'm at my wit's end here.
Besides my primary suggestion (Muzzle the VCM!) you could try another dealer. But seriously, try shutting down the VCM. Only then will you really know if there is a trans issue.
I'm not saying there isn't, just rule that out. By the way, I think there is some secret way dealers can shut off VCM for diagnostic purposes. But because of EPA (do we still have one?)
rules, they cannot leave it that way. But your service dept sounds kind of wacked.
Put your location in your profile! Someone who lives near you may have dealer stories to tell or suggestions of which ones to use. Even who to talk to.
Also, you can contact Acura Corp directly. They can arrange a meeting with a factory rep and your service manager.
Besides my primary suggestion (Muzzle the VCM!) you could try another dealer. But seriously, try shutting down the VCM. Only then will you really know if there is a trans issue.
I'm not saying there isn't, just rule that out. By the way, I think there is some secret way dealers can shut off VCM for diagnostic purposes. But because of EPA (do we still have one?)
rules, they cannot leave it that way. But your service dept sounds kind of wacked.
Put your location in your profile! Someone who lives near you may have dealer stories to tell or suggestions of which ones to use. Even who to talk to.
Also, you can contact Acura Corp directly. They can arrange a meeting with a factory rep and your service manager.
Yeah I will try the vcm option.
I just had the transmission fluid changed per the service interval and that has most definitely helped. We will see how long that lasts and then do the vcm.
I don't want to add more than one variable at a time.... But now that you mention the vcm muzzle during the testing that makes sense. Because it seems like Everytime we drive it with them it never happens when plugged in. It's like some vw crap.... But yes next step is the vcm muzzle then max life. Also I live in New Orleans but I'm moving to Greenville, SC as of this week so I'm going to test them out and see how Acura dealer up here is. And the service manager at Acura in New Orleans is the worst of the worst for sure. One side question. They said my brake fluid was contaminated, does that make sense after 25,000 miles??
Brake fluid gets changed every three years regardless of miles. Brake fluid attracts moisture. This service interval has been normal since ABS practically.
So I had them give me a sample of the fluid and a sample of the new fluid and it looks really bad since at 15,000 we had an actual flush done so all the fluid should've been new and now at 26,000 miles it looks this bad? I have a 97 Toyota and I did a single drain and fill and it still looks red after 10k miles.
I've been running the S-VCM since March 5, 2019 and have put a little over 1,000 miles on it. The RDX AWD Advance runs fine on it and I like running on six cylinders full time. However, the RDX has the random, intermittent "hesitation" upon acceleration from a stopped position. The S-VCM did not eliminate the "hesitation" situation by itself. So, today I had the Valvoline MaxLife ATF installed in the transmission at a drive-thru Valvoline Instant Oil Change store. Total cost was $159.99 including tax and the transmission held 18 pints of ATF. The transmission and lines were emptied and fluid replaced by a suction machine. The mileage on the RDX was 37,451 mi. at the fluid change.
I drove home for a distance of about 15 miles, through a mixture of city (stop and go traffic) and freeway traffic. So far there were no hesitations in acceleration from a stopped position and the transmission performed smoothly and very responsively. I will monitor it for the hesitations and report the results back here.
As a side note, the transmission fluid had been changed as part of CPO reconditioning by the dealer that I bought the car from about 2,000 miles ago. The dealer had used the ATF DW-1 fluid. In the interest of getting the "hesitation" solved now, I opted to dump the brand new DW-1 ATF fluid in favor of the Valvoline MaxLife ATF.
Had a few disturbing moments over time , with lagging gear switching and lagging catching of gears in my 2015 model. Car has almost 60,000 miles now. I had the dealership do the trans and all fluid changes at 30k miles. I bought a new PCV vale and installed it about 2 weeks ago, and now I'm finding that the cars is running most excellent again. The old PCV was stopped up and couldn't make it rattle when removed. Don't know how this helped , other than making sure the vacuum system for the engine was operating as it should,,but for cheap help, this may help others.
Has nothing to do with driving the RDX like a sports car. If driving 65-70mph on the highway is driving it like a sports car then you have a lot to learn about cars
Nope. But maybe its because I drive my RDX like an SUV and not a sports car. In other words I drive it gently. I also do not have mega-miles on it. It shifts up and down ultra smoothly.
But reading this and other posts like it on this forum, cripes, it sounds like we are driving a car from the big-three in Detroit.
What does this have to do with driving it like a sports car??? If driving on a straight road at 65-70 mph is driving it like a sports car, than you have a lot to learn about cars. One of the most ignorant comments I have heard on any forum. If something is built with a design flaw it was appear no matter what the case is.
Has nothing to do with driving the RDX like a sports car. If driving 65-70mph on the highway is driving it like a sports car then you have a lot to learn about cars
You might want to look at his signature, the RDX is his boring car.
Well if you are driving "on a straight road at 65-70 mph", then you won't be shifting at all, so what is your point.
I do know tromping on the gas hard will give you more violent shifts that driving it gently.
Considering none of my cars has ever been to a shop since day-one and that was over 50 years ago, I know a bit about cars.
I am saying that even if you drive your car hard, unnecessary and irregular vibrations or hard shifts is not inevitable. I beat on my other cars and they drive fine. Cars were designed and built to endure different driving environments. So having a part fail whether or not you drive hard or soft is a design flaw. Not because you drive your truck like a grandma.
You might want to look at his signature, the RDX is his boring car.
lol. This is my boring car as you stated but I do have some expectations for a truck I though would be built better. I drive both my evo and m3 hard and they drive smoother than my semi luxurious rdx. I bought this truck to relax and drive in the rain and snow. I’m not flooring the rdx and taking turns at 70 mph but I expect no vibrations at legal speeds.
So having a part fail whether or not you drive hard or soft is a design flaw.
From what I have read here over more than 2 years, owners are complaining of hard or jerky shifts, not "failed parts". Supposedly solved by a A/T fluid change and an electronic device.
From what I have read here over more than 2 years, owners are complaining of hard or jerky shifts, not "failed parts". Supposedly solved by a A/T fluid change and an electronic device.
Yes correct and heavy vibrations as well. This is also possibly due to the failure of the propeller shaft in the torque converter. I had the fluid changed today with the updated PGM and it did not solve it. Now they are looking at the shaft along with CV joints which the tech said are weak points on these trucks.
Yes correct and heavy vibrations as well. This is also possibly due to the failure of the propeller shaft in the torque converter. I had the fluid changed today with the updated PGM and it did not solve it. Now they are looking at the shaft along with CV joints which the tech said are weak points on these trucks.
Are you running on all 6 cylinders all the time using the various aftermarket electronic devices out there or is the engine running on the factory VCM?
I can't remember the details on the engine mounts but I have read about them on here. At what they cost, there must be something damn special about them. Also read about transmission mounts, etc.
Are you running on all 6 cylinders all the time using the various aftermarket electronic devices out there or is the engine running on the factory VCM?
I can't remember the details on the engine mounts but I have read about them on here. At what they cost, there must be something damn special about them. Also read about transmission mounts, etc.
Mileage in RDX?
So you will run on all 6 cylinders after using the aftermarket device and burn more gas. From what I researched it is about 1-2 mpg city and highway that is lost but definitely worth it to me. Yea. I read that the vibration and harsh shifts cause the premature where of both the motor mounts and transmission mounts and as you stated, they are very pricy. I have some research to do, because I don't want to sell the truck. If they cannot fix the truck after three attempts, the lemon law in NY MAY apply. I spoke to a friend and he said they may have to buy the truck back if it is a repeated problem.
I bought the truck Sept 30, 2019 and it just broke 28k miles.
There are several muzzler products from simple resisters costing $50-60, Units with changeable resisters & dials for about $80. to more sophisticated units
(S-VCM & VCMTunerII) Costing between $95-120. They all plug between one of the 2 coolant sensors on top of the engine with factory style connectors.
Completely reversible. The two most expensive ones report actual temps when sensing an overheat situation. (pretty rare in a Honda) The VCMTunerII also
reports (to the ECM) the actual temp when you leave the engine idling as one needs to do after some services on Hondas. (an idle relearn procedure)
Please keep in mind that some of the issues with VCM you will read about, including the lawsuit and warranty extension, do not apply to the RDX necessarily.
Honda used some experimental low friction piston rings on various models between 2008 & 2013 that would not hold the oil back when the cylinders were shut
down. Oil fouled spark plugs. Early VCM engines, like Odysseys in 2005-2010 had weak active engine mounts that could not handle the vibrations VCM produced.
None of these issues probably affect the 2nd gen RDX. The refresh of 2016 simplified VCM operation even more. Now we are down to jerks when the VCM
activates/deactivates coinciding with shift points. Still well worth muzzling, but not because of the scare tactics some sellers seem to use.
By the way, even though Honda has done a 3X fluid change and software update, you are still going to be due for a normal drain & fill in 30k. Completely normal for all Honda automatics.
05-08-2019, 07:54 PM
