Installed my splash guards
#1
Installed my splash guards
Simple, 30 minute job. Follow the instructions with this advice:
The instructions for the front say to use a push pin to pierce a plug. The plug has a dimple in it where you are instructed to push with the pin. The dimple is a piece of plastic you are breaking and pushing inward so that you can thread a screw into the hole created. I found it easier to use a very small phillips screwdriver and give it a slight rap with the palm of your hand. Just make sure the diameter of the screwdriver is less than that of the dimple.
You are removing two plastic push rivets for each rear guard. Pry up on the middle of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver and pull it out and you can wiggle the entire rivet out. When you replace them with the rivets that come with the guards, reach around behind the underbody and make sure they are fully seating in the plastic behind the felt fender liner. The plastic they are securing into is fairly flimsy and there is a good chance of seating the rivet without catching the plastic. Once you feel that they are all the way through the felt and the plastic, keep pressure on the plastic from behind while you seat the inner part of the rivet into the outer part.
On all four guards, don't fully tighten the screws until all are part way in and the rivets (on the back) are seated. Then keep pressure on the outside of the guard pushing gently towards the body while you tighten all the screws (start with the middle screw on the front guards). This will keep the guards flush to the body without gaps.
The instructions for the front say to use a push pin to pierce a plug. The plug has a dimple in it where you are instructed to push with the pin. The dimple is a piece of plastic you are breaking and pushing inward so that you can thread a screw into the hole created. I found it easier to use a very small phillips screwdriver and give it a slight rap with the palm of your hand. Just make sure the diameter of the screwdriver is less than that of the dimple.
You are removing two plastic push rivets for each rear guard. Pry up on the middle of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver and pull it out and you can wiggle the entire rivet out. When you replace them with the rivets that come with the guards, reach around behind the underbody and make sure they are fully seating in the plastic behind the felt fender liner. The plastic they are securing into is fairly flimsy and there is a good chance of seating the rivet without catching the plastic. Once you feel that they are all the way through the felt and the plastic, keep pressure on the plastic from behind while you seat the inner part of the rivet into the outer part.
On all four guards, don't fully tighten the screws until all are part way in and the rivets (on the back) are seated. Then keep pressure on the outside of the guard pushing gently towards the body while you tighten all the screws (start with the middle screw on the front guards). This will keep the guards flush to the body without gaps.
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#4
I got them at Park Acura OEM Parts internet site. They don't have 2013 parts as a category on their site so I searched using
Part#: 08P00-TX4-200 They were a bit less than $100 plus shipping.
They come with the screws and clips but not the install instructions. Go here for the install instructions: http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/AI/BII13464.pdf
Part#: 08P00-TX4-200 They were a bit less than $100 plus shipping.
They come with the screws and clips but not the install instructions. Go here for the install instructions: http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/AI/BII13464.pdf
Last edited by Dorsey; 06-05-2012 at 07:52 AM.
#5
I installed the splash guards over the weekend myself. Was really easy and I think they improve the look of the RDX. Hopefully they function pretty well too. Got mine off eBay can't remember the exact Acura dealer.
#7
Hey...if you look at my photo thread (photo discussion....RDX Tech White Diamond Pearl), you will see that my RDX has them on. Its very subtle but do make the look nicer. In Canada, these are standard...as with the HID and fog lights.
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diamondcut (09-03-2012)
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#8
Simple, 30 minute job. Follow the instructions with this advice:
The instructions for the front say to use a push pin to pierce a plug. The plug has a dimple in it where you are instructed to push with the pin. The dimple is a piece of plastic you are breaking and pushing inward so that you can thread a screw into the hole created. I found it easier to use a very small phillips screwdriver and give it a slight rap with the palm of your hand. Just make sure the diameter of the screwdriver is less than that of the dimple.
You are removing two plastic push rivets for each rear guard. Pry up on the middle of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver and pull it out and you can wiggle the entire rivet out. When you replace them with the rivets that come with the guards, reach around behind the underbody and make sure they are fully seating in the plastic behind the felt fender liner. The plastic they are securing into is fairly flimsy and there is a good chance of seating the rivet without catching the plastic. Once you feel that they are all the way through the felt and the plastic, keep pressure on the plastic from behind while you seat the inner part of the rivet into the outer part.
On all four guards, don't fully tighten the screws until all are part way in and the rivets (on the back) are seated. Then keep pressure on the outside of the guard pushing gently towards the body while you tighten all the screws (start with the middle screw on the front guards). This will keep the guards flush to the body without gaps.
The instructions for the front say to use a push pin to pierce a plug. The plug has a dimple in it where you are instructed to push with the pin. The dimple is a piece of plastic you are breaking and pushing inward so that you can thread a screw into the hole created. I found it easier to use a very small phillips screwdriver and give it a slight rap with the palm of your hand. Just make sure the diameter of the screwdriver is less than that of the dimple.
You are removing two plastic push rivets for each rear guard. Pry up on the middle of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver and pull it out and you can wiggle the entire rivet out. When you replace them with the rivets that come with the guards, reach around behind the underbody and make sure they are fully seating in the plastic behind the felt fender liner. The plastic they are securing into is fairly flimsy and there is a good chance of seating the rivet without catching the plastic. Once you feel that they are all the way through the felt and the plastic, keep pressure on the plastic from behind while you seat the inner part of the rivet into the outer part.
On all four guards, don't fully tighten the screws until all are part way in and the rivets (on the back) are seated. Then keep pressure on the outside of the guard pushing gently towards the body while you tighten all the screws (start with the middle screw on the front guards). This will keep the guards flush to the body without gaps.
I installed mine earlier today. Following your instructions (thanks BTW), It was simple enough but I was unable to fully eliminate the gaps between guards and body after numerous tries.
Were you able to have the guards flush to the body without any gaps at all? Any additional tips on how to eliminate the gaps?
Thanks in advance!
Best,
Cousin Vinny
#10
Cuz - I did not have a problem with gaps but it is an individual judgement call. Mine are not perfect but they are pretty good and look fine. Will try to post some pics in the next few days. Are the gaps on all 4 or just front or just rear? If rear only make sure the rivet is fully seated and grabbing the plastic attachment point. Sounds like you have tried to loosen and tighten them to get a better fit. The only other thing I can suggest is to play with the temperature during reinstallation. Try to realign them with the vehicle in the hot sun or try putting one of the guards in the freezer for a few hours and then reinstall. That may create enough expansion or shrinkage to help.
Hi Dorsey,
I installed mine earlier today. Following your instructions (thanks BTW), It was simple enough but I was unable to fully eliminate the gaps between guards and body after numerous tries.
Were you able to have the guards flush to the body without any gaps at all? Any additional tips on how to eliminate the gaps?
Thanks in advance!
Best,
Cousin Vinny
I installed mine earlier today. Following your instructions (thanks BTW), It was simple enough but I was unable to fully eliminate the gaps between guards and body after numerous tries.
Were you able to have the guards flush to the body without any gaps at all? Any additional tips on how to eliminate the gaps?
Thanks in advance!
Best,
Cousin Vinny
#11
Cuz - I did not have a problem with gaps but it is an individual judgement call. Mine are not perfect but they are pretty good and look fine. Will try to post some pics in the next few days. Are the gaps on all 4 or just front or just rear? If rear only make sure the rivet is fully seated and grabbing the plastic attachment point. Sounds like you have tried to loosen and tighten them to get a better fit. The only other thing I can suggest is to play with the temperature during reinstallation. Try to realign them with the vehicle in the hot sun or try putting one of the guards in the freezer for a few hours and then reinstall. That may create enough expansion or shrinkage to help.
#12
Please excuse the dirt. I wash it every Saturday and today is Friday. I took a picture of each corner from behind and from directly above as the shadows make it difficult to see where the body and guard meet. Other than a small gap on the right front they are all pretty tight. I will work on the right front and see if I can close it up.
Let me know if yours are better, worse or the same.
Last edited by Dorsey; 07-27-2012 at 06:21 PM.
#13
Here you go Cuz - http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t...X%20mudguards/
Please excuse the dirt. I wash it every Saturday and today is Friday. I took a picture of each corner from behind and from directly above as the shadows make it difficult to see where the body and guard meet. Other than a small gap on the right front they are all pretty tight. I will work on the right front and see if I can close it up.
Let me know if yours are better, worse or the same.
Please excuse the dirt. I wash it every Saturday and today is Friday. I took a picture of each corner from behind and from directly above as the shadows make it difficult to see where the body and guard meet. Other than a small gap on the right front they are all pretty tight. I will work on the right front and see if I can close it up.
Let me know if yours are better, worse or the same.
I think my are a little worst.
Here are the pictures that I took of them.
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhfJ
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhtj
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhFC
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhVd
Thoughts?
#14
CousinVinny...I went to check mine and they are perfectly flush with the vehicle, no gap whatsoever. In fact, I can't recall seeing something so tight.
That being said, mind were factory installed (or dealer) as they are standard feature on the Canadian models. The only reason I chimed in was to let you know that they are not suppose to have any spaces or gaps as I have evidence that its not the way they are suppose to be.
That being said, mind were factory installed (or dealer) as they are standard feature on the Canadian models. The only reason I chimed in was to let you know that they are not suppose to have any spaces or gaps as I have evidence that its not the way they are suppose to be.
#16
^^^ Well, unlike other splash guards, these aren't overly tall and will not have the full splash protection that a full sized splash guard would. Esthetically, they are very pleasing but come at the expense of the protection they provide.
#18
I hope this helps....As you can see, they are very subtle.
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RDXAWD (07-29-2012)
#19
Thanks, Dorsey.
I think my are a little worst.
Here are the pictures that I took of them.
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhfJ
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhtj
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhFC
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhVd
Thoughts?
I think my are a little worst.
Here are the pictures that I took of them.
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhfJ
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhtj
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhFC
http://flic.kr/p/cFKhVd
Thoughts?
Install the left rear splash guard to the rear bumper with one long clip, one short clip and the self-tapping screw removed in step 6. Install in the order:
THERE IS A GRAPHIC HERE THAT WOULD NOT COPY THAT SHOWS THE ORDER
If there is a gap, loosen the self-tapping screw, hold the splash guard against the body, and retighten the screw.
Try again and see if that helps. Let us know.
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5 Acuras (08-27-2013)
#21
Car Crazy for Sure!
I installed my own...and did see that there was a gap developing. I then readjusted the mounting hardware as described....and when finished I still noticed a slight gap on I think 2 or 3 of them. I left them alone...and guess what???......after some time mounted they "conformed" I guess and the gaps went away and they were snug against the body.
Now, I don't know if that is the answer....but, it's what happened with mine. They probably "stretched/relaxed in to the correct conformity required to be snug fitting.
Now, I don't know if that is the answer....but, it's what happened with mine. They probably "stretched/relaxed in to the correct conformity required to be snug fitting.
#22
Here are some photos I took of my dealer installed splash guards. Notice the front guard, the guard conforms exactly to the contour of the body panel.
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1010385.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1010383.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1010382.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1010378.jpg
Regards, Jim
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1010385.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1010383.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1010382.jpg
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1010378.jpg
Regards, Jim
#23
^^^ Great photos Jim...yours allow our members to describe what mine are like as well. BTW, you RDX seems very clean in those pics...Good job my friend
#24
And, if you think my car looks very clean, that is the ultimate compliment.
Your meticulous attention to your cars has inspired me to new efforts.
Regards, Jim
#25
Burning Brakes
Do the splash guards for the 2012 CRV fit? They are about $30 cheaper on ebay.
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musty hustla (08-07-2012)
#27
Instructor
Trouble with rear splash guards
Simple, 30 minute job. Follow the instructions with this advice:
The instructions for the front say to use a push pin to pierce a plug. The plug has a dimple in it where you are instructed to push with the pin. The dimple is a piece of plastic you are breaking and pushing inward so that you can thread a screw into the hole created. I found it easier to use a very small phillips screwdriver and give it a slight rap with the palm of your hand. Just make sure the diameter of the screwdriver is less than that of the dimple.
You are removing two plastic push rivets for each rear guard. Pry up on the middle of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver and pull it out and you can wiggle the entire rivet out. When you replace them with the rivets that come with the guards, reach around behind the underbody and make sure they are fully seating in the plastic behind the felt fender liner. The plastic they are securing into is fairly flimsy and there is a good chance of seating the rivet without catching the plastic. Once you feel that they are all the way through the felt and the plastic, keep pressure on the plastic from behind while you seat the inner part of the rivet into the outer part.
On all four guards, don't fully tighten the screws until all are part way in and the rivets (on the back) are seated. Then keep pressure on the outside of the guard pushing gently towards the body while you tighten all the screws (start with the middle screw on the front guards). This will keep the guards flush to the body without gaps.
The instructions for the front say to use a push pin to pierce a plug. The plug has a dimple in it where you are instructed to push with the pin. The dimple is a piece of plastic you are breaking and pushing inward so that you can thread a screw into the hole created. I found it easier to use a very small phillips screwdriver and give it a slight rap with the palm of your hand. Just make sure the diameter of the screwdriver is less than that of the dimple.
You are removing two plastic push rivets for each rear guard. Pry up on the middle of the rivet with a flathead screwdriver and pull it out and you can wiggle the entire rivet out. When you replace them with the rivets that come with the guards, reach around behind the underbody and make sure they are fully seating in the plastic behind the felt fender liner. The plastic they are securing into is fairly flimsy and there is a good chance of seating the rivet without catching the plastic. Once you feel that they are all the way through the felt and the plastic, keep pressure on the plastic from behind while you seat the inner part of the rivet into the outer part.
On all four guards, don't fully tighten the screws until all are part way in and the rivets (on the back) are seated. Then keep pressure on the outside of the guard pushing gently towards the body while you tighten all the screws (start with the middle screw on the front guards). This will keep the guards flush to the body without gaps.
Thanks a bunch
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Kapadiab (10-15-2012)
#28
On the rear you are replacing two existing rivets with the longer ones supplied with the splash guards. Are you saying that there are no existing plastic push rivets or holes for them in the rear fender lip or just in the felt? If that is true then the felt fender liner should be flapping around at the bottom rear. In any event, you should not have to make holes in the felt inner liner. I suggest you hold the splash guard in the correct position and make sure there are no black plastic rivets aligned with the holes in the splash guard. If not, take it to the dealer for advice because something is not right.
#29
*laughing* I must have missed your post earlier....Thanks for the kind words as well. I am aware that I am super anal about the state of my vehicles and maybe a bit too much. Glad to see that my compulsion has served as a motivation for you
#30
If you are truly super anal you would remove the splash guards once or twice a year to clean and apply a protective coating of wax to the areas of the body panels covered by the guards.
#31
GRDX....Thanks for giving me yet another thing to obsess about *lol* In all seriousness, if I drove it in any wet road conditions, I likely would by the RDX is now becoming like my TL and only my little Accent takes the brunt of the abuse when it comes to the weather. So I think I will not need to remove the guards to clean underneath for now anyway.
#32
#33
Burning Brakes
I installed a set today...it was relatively easy. I thought the rear would be a nightmare due to clearance but there was plenty of room. I was surprised that the rear fender seemed to be made of sound deadening material.
#35
Burning Brakes
You have two options: reach under and push out the center portion the pin from underneath the liner or use a thin flat head to pop out the center portion.
#36
Hi evryone
Thanks for your help/guidance to install splash guard. Today I installed splash guards and it took me about 30 minutes.
The dealer in california asked $203+ tax, I Purchased splash guards from Curry Acura for $105 including shipping and tax. All 4 splash guards snug with the body very well.
See attached pics
Thanks for your help/guidance to install splash guard. Today I installed splash guards and it took me about 30 minutes.
The dealer in california asked $203+ tax, I Purchased splash guards from Curry Acura for $105 including shipping and tax. All 4 splash guards snug with the body very well.
See attached pics
#37
^^^ Looks good! Great job with extra money in your pocket
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Kapadiab (10-23-2012)
#38
Just finished installing. Spent about 1.5 hours. Thanks for the guidance.
The real tricky is the rear two, don't press in the inner part, first push the outside of rivet in, then push the inside. I bought from the acura dealer since they sent me a 15% off coupon. No gaps except the left rear has a very small gap, I pressed the inner part in first, maybe the gap caused by this mistake. The plastic quality is great.
The real tricky is the rear two, don't press in the inner part, first push the outside of rivet in, then push the inside. I bought from the acura dealer since they sent me a 15% off coupon. No gaps except the left rear has a very small gap, I pressed the inner part in first, maybe the gap caused by this mistake. The plastic quality is great.
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weather (02-04-2013)