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2G Front Brakes - DIY

 
Old 06-24-2019, 04:54 PM
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2G Front Brakes - DIY

pretty easy...

tools used:

impact gun 14mm socket
piston compressor
jack stands
3 ton lift
oem brakes with grease
shop towels

The car was in for a B1 and the dealership calls me at home in a panic.. "oh oh oh your fronts are 3mm.. you MUST change them now...we can do it for you now for a whole bunch of money" i says 'calm your bich ass down, i'll do it myself'.

so..of course, in a week i get it done but seems to me there's lot of meat left on the old pads.

















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Old 06-24-2019, 08:58 PM
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Great. Thanks for sharing. Where did you get the "Acura" caliper cover?
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Old 06-24-2019, 10:03 PM
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Thanks for the pics. Do you have torque specs?
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Old 06-24-2019, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by sathiyan View Post
Great. Thanks for sharing. Where did you get the "Acura" caliper cover?

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...covers-863935/

they are off the 2013-2015 acura RDX front brakes. they came standard with them on..unfortunately there's been a rush on them as everyone scrambling to get some for their ACURAs..so price got inflated.
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Old 06-24-2019, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DUCRDX View Post
Thanks for the pics. Do you have torque specs?
i based it on crv specs approximately 50-55 ft/lbs
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Old 07-05-2019, 10:10 PM
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I changed out the pads and rotors yesterday on our RDX as they were getting low, though still had life left. I am happy I did it early though due to the pulsating/shaking due to the TSB posted here somewhere. For anyone else trying this, you need a 19mm socket for the lug nuts, and also to remove the caliper carrier in order to replace the rotors. Also if you are replacing the rotors, you'll need to remove two screws, if you can, that are holding the rotors on. There are 2 per rotor, and I could only get one out, so I drilled the other 3 out and they're just held in place by the wheel and calipers/pads now. So far, no issues. They were rusted in place, and despite a few tries with PB Blaster, and a screwdriver plus vice grips to get more leverage, I couldn't get them to budge. No idea why you need 2 per rotor, or why you'd have steel screws with a steel rotor and not use never seize, but that is for anther thread.

The 14mm socket (or wrench) is to take the caliper bolts off of the carriers. I'd also recommend using a wrench, not sure of the size, or an adjustable wrench versus pliers to hold the slide pin when removing or tightening the caliper bolts. OP, I'm not sure why you used the impact to install the bolts rather than remove them, but that's up to you. Personally, I'd rather tighten by hand so you know they can be removed in the future. Having a flat screwdriver available to get the brake pad hardware off the caliper carriers is also helpful.
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Old 07-14-2019, 12:25 AM
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Question: Since you are capable of replacing brake pads, why didn't you take care of B1 yourself? I personally don't like anyone to touch my car unless it is for something I can't do myself
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:24 AM
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Some advice for next time...

My practice is to remove and replace the stainless steel guides/shims from the top and bottom of the caliper bracket (or at least clean them if not replacing). More importantly, the area on the brackets under those guides/shims needs to be filed/sanded to be free of rust, and during reassembly brake lube put on the brackets under the guides/shims to help prevent rust. Keeping rust out from under the guides/shims keeps the shims from being lifted by the rust, which would reduce the clearance for the pads and would lead to binding and premature wear.
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by fcostantini View Post
My practice is to remove and replace the stainless steel guides/shims from the top and bottom of the caliper bracket (or at least clean them if not replacing). More importantly, the area on the brackets under those guides/shims needs to be filed/sanded to be free of rust, and during reassembly brake lube put on the brackets under the guides/shims to help prevent rust. Keeping rust out from under the guides/shims keeps the shims from being lifted by the rust, which would reduce the clearance for the pads and would lead to binding and premature wear.
This is excellent advice.

I have been doing my own brakes for 40 years, so I am not an amateur. Many times when purchasing new pads, I found they fit the caliper so tightly that in order to remove them again I needed a screwdriver to pry them out. Even pads purchased from the dealer were often to tight to fit into the caliper. I often used my bench grinder to grind down the "ears" on the pad to make them fit loosely enough to allow free movement.

It was only about 4 years ago that I watched a YouTube video that explained how rust buildup under the stainless guides would push the shims tighter against the "ears" of the pads until they would no longer have free movement.

The effect of this binding became very obvious when I owned my 2016 RDX. After the first year it developed a shudder when applying the brakes. The funny thing was that the shudder didn't occur every time, so I ruled out warped rotors as the cause. The shudder usually didn't occur in the morning drives, but did occur after prolonged driving. I concluded it was due to heat buildup. When I inspected the front brakes I found the pads could not be moved without prying with a screwdriver. After thoroughly cleaning the rust off of the caliper and the stainless guides with a wire brush, I reassembled everything including grease on the underside of the guides. After ensuing that I could slide the pads back and forth with my fingertips, I closed everything up. The shudder never re-occurred for at least a year. At that time I repeated the servicing and the shudder never appeared again for the remainder of the time I owned the RDX.

I highly recommend everyone take the extra few minutes to pop off the stainless shims and brush away the rust under them.
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by RDX-Rick View Post
This is excellent advice.

I have been doing my own brakes for 40 years, so I am not an amateur. Many times when purchasing new pads, I found they fit the caliper so tightly that in order to remove them again I needed a screwdriver to pry them out. Even pads purchased from the dealer were often to tight to fit into the caliper. I often used my bench grinder to grind down the "ears" on the pad to make them fit loosely enough to allow free movement.

It was only about 4 years ago that I watched a YouTube video that explained how rust buildup under the stainless guides would push the shims tighter against the "ears" of the pads until they would no longer have free movement.

The effect of this binding became very obvious when I owned my 2016 RDX. After the first year it developed a shudder when applying the brakes. The funny thing was that the shudder didn't occur every time, so I ruled out warped rotors as the cause. The shudder usually didn't occur in the morning drives, but did occur after prolonged driving. I concluded it was due to heat buildup. When I inspected the front brakes I found the pads could not be moved without prying with a screwdriver. After thoroughly cleaning the rust off of the caliper and the stainless guides with a wire brush, I reassembled everything including grease on the underside of the guides. After ensuing that I could slide the pads back and forth with my fingertips, I closed everything up. The shudder never re-occurred for at least a year. At that time I repeated the servicing and the shudder never appeared again for the remainder of the time I owned the RDX.

I highly recommend everyone take the extra few minutes to pop off the stainless shims and brush away the rust under them.
Interesting, I have been experiencing the shudder issues exactly like you described, which I think is covered by TSB 19-009 due to "uneven pad wear and low brake disc hat rigidity."

I also replaced the retainers (stainless guides) for a different reason. While it did help the pads move very freely it did nothing for the shudder issue. Mine is 2014 RDX.
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