Timing Belt Job - Additional work at this mileage interval?
07-15-2023, 07:53 AM
#1
Timing Belt Job - Additional work at this mileage interval?
The following is included in an OEM timing belt kit: GENUINE Timing Belt Honda; Idler Roller Pulley Koyo OEM; Tensioner Roller Pulley Koyo OEM; GENUINE Water Pump & Gasket Honda; Hydraulic Tensioner Aisin OEM: GENUINE Front Camshaft Seals x 2 Honda; GENUINE Front Crankshaft Seal Honda; BANDO OEM Serpentine Drive Belt.
My question is what else should or could be done at the same time and not necessarily associated with the labor for this particular job. For instance, I would include having the spark plugs changed out at the same time. What about radiator hoses, PCV valve, valve adjustment, etc.? TIA for all responses.
My question is what else should or could be done at the same time and not necessarily associated with the labor for this particular job. For instance, I would include having the spark plugs changed out at the same time. What about radiator hoses, PCV valve, valve adjustment, etc.? TIA for all responses.
The following 2 users liked this post by thisischris:
Darbsj29 (07-20-2023),
TheSauceBoss (07-20-2023)
07-20-2023, 08:46 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
It's pretty subjective, depending on the year of the car, and the mileage.
If this is the first time this service has been performed, people *typically* don't need to do much else beyond the belts, tensioner, pulleys, water pump, coolant, and plugs.
If the current crank and cam seals are good and not leaking, I honestly wouldn't mess with them - it can easily end up being more trouble than it's worth.
I have an '06 TL with ~270k on it, with the original seals intact. However, my oil pump itself needs to be resealed, which is a common thing to do during this job (albeit, this is done more commonly on the second service when the car is around 200k and the original seal starts to fail). It is much better to perform this when you already have the crank pulley and timing covers taken off. Visual inspection will tell you more.
Additionally, valve adjustments are typically recommended at this service interval, though it is also subjective to the car. My TL has NEVER had a valve adjustment. I can still get around 29mpg on the highway, and there isn't hardly any valve noise, so I figured don't fix what isn't broken. Granted, I have never neglected the oil or filter, which can help prolong the performance of such.
The PCV valve is a bit harder to access on the RDX, as it's hidden under a bracket on the right side of the engine closest to the battery. If you are noticing efficiency issues, like fuel mileage. the PCV would be the first thing I replace, followed by an actual valve adjustment if necessary.
Radiator hoses themselves should be fine unless you are noticing something off. Really the only other thing you could do during this service would be a thermostat replacement, since the coolant will be (mostly) drained out of the car. But again, I'm big on not replacing something that works perfectly fine. And further you need to remember that you could be replacing something with an inferior part, given the prevalence of lesser QC recently across the board with auto parts.
Ultimately, if it were me, (and this is the first time the 105k service is being performed on the car), I'd stick to the essentials. Don't mess with the seals unless they are compromised. Don't go through the trouble of adjusting the valves unless they are making noise and you are experiencing adverse performance.
This job is very do-able on your own. Only specialized equipment you need is likely a weighted 19mm socket for an impact driver (Lisle sells them on amazon) to get the crank pulley off. Everything else can be done with hand tools. Extensions on your sockets to help remove the motor mounts will also make your life easier. Just remember to slightly jack up the engine to relieve pressure on the mount. The RDX has the further benefit of no PS pump to get in the way, along with a (relatively) roomy engine bay to access the spark plugs. Good luck!
*edit, plus one on what chris said. Keeping up with your trans fluid, trans filter, transfer case fluid, and rear diff fluid is equally as important.
If this is the first time this service has been performed, people *typically* don't need to do much else beyond the belts, tensioner, pulleys, water pump, coolant, and plugs.
If the current crank and cam seals are good and not leaking, I honestly wouldn't mess with them - it can easily end up being more trouble than it's worth.
I have an '06 TL with ~270k on it, with the original seals intact. However, my oil pump itself needs to be resealed, which is a common thing to do during this job (albeit, this is done more commonly on the second service when the car is around 200k and the original seal starts to fail). It is much better to perform this when you already have the crank pulley and timing covers taken off. Visual inspection will tell you more.
Additionally, valve adjustments are typically recommended at this service interval, though it is also subjective to the car. My TL has NEVER had a valve adjustment. I can still get around 29mpg on the highway, and there isn't hardly any valve noise, so I figured don't fix what isn't broken. Granted, I have never neglected the oil or filter, which can help prolong the performance of such.
The PCV valve is a bit harder to access on the RDX, as it's hidden under a bracket on the right side of the engine closest to the battery. If you are noticing efficiency issues, like fuel mileage. the PCV would be the first thing I replace, followed by an actual valve adjustment if necessary.
Radiator hoses themselves should be fine unless you are noticing something off. Really the only other thing you could do during this service would be a thermostat replacement, since the coolant will be (mostly) drained out of the car. But again, I'm big on not replacing something that works perfectly fine. And further you need to remember that you could be replacing something with an inferior part, given the prevalence of lesser QC recently across the board with auto parts.
Ultimately, if it were me, (and this is the first time the 105k service is being performed on the car), I'd stick to the essentials. Don't mess with the seals unless they are compromised. Don't go through the trouble of adjusting the valves unless they are making noise and you are experiencing adverse performance.
This job is very do-able on your own. Only specialized equipment you need is likely a weighted 19mm socket for an impact driver (Lisle sells them on amazon) to get the crank pulley off. Everything else can be done with hand tools. Extensions on your sockets to help remove the motor mounts will also make your life easier. Just remember to slightly jack up the engine to relieve pressure on the mount. The RDX has the further benefit of no PS pump to get in the way, along with a (relatively) roomy engine bay to access the spark plugs. Good luck!
*edit, plus one on what chris said. Keeping up with your trans fluid, trans filter, transfer case fluid, and rear diff fluid is equally as important.
Last edited by TheSauceBoss; 07-20-2023 at 08:49 AM.
07-31-2023, 08:22 AM
#4
Thanks for the excellent replies and I apologize for not responding sooner. It's my wife's car and is a 2018, she drives a lot.
I have had the transmission drained and filled every 30k, but have neglected the differential and will definitely have that fluid changed. As mentioned I will change the plugs and have them replaced with OEM plugs.
Based on the feedback and what a dealership suggested way back when, I will skip the crank and cam seals as well as the valve adjustment/PCV valve. It currently runs well with no audible noise and still gets good gas mileage. Clearly it would be a good opportunity to change the thermostat, but I too am skeptical of build quality of new parts and will probably let it be. Hoses and everything else will be inspected.
Doing it on my own is not an option so it will be done at either a Honda dealership or independent shop that has lots of experience with Honda's/Acura's or is authorized. Of course, the cost difference will likely be substantial, so as long as it's an experience shop with a solid warranty that may be the route, I take. If the the cost difference surprises me and turns out not to be substantial I'll let the dealership perform the work.
I have had the transmission drained and filled every 30k, but have neglected the differential and will definitely have that fluid changed. As mentioned I will change the plugs and have them replaced with OEM plugs.
Based on the feedback and what a dealership suggested way back when, I will skip the crank and cam seals as well as the valve adjustment/PCV valve. It currently runs well with no audible noise and still gets good gas mileage. Clearly it would be a good opportunity to change the thermostat, but I too am skeptical of build quality of new parts and will probably let it be. Hoses and everything else will be inspected.
Doing it on my own is not an option so it will be done at either a Honda dealership or independent shop that has lots of experience with Honda's/Acura's or is authorized. Of course, the cost difference will likely be substantial, so as long as it's an experience shop with a solid warranty that may be the route, I take. If the the cost difference surprises me and turns out not to be substantial I'll let the dealership perform the work.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kin12345
Car Parts for Sale
5
06-15-2012 01:20 PM