Hi all, just wondering if anyone in Canada has used Krown and if so, how long did it take for the "dripping onto the driveway/floor" thing to stop?

 

I've used Krown before. They sent me a special offer including 2 free movie tickets, and some extra services related to cleaning the car if I got the rust proofing again. I didn't go with Krown this time, I went with a groupon that cost me a quarter of what Krown charges. However, they only rustproofed the undercarriage of the car.
When Krown rustproofs your car, they will drill holes in certain areas and inject the rustproofing oil in. They plug the holes after they do this. There is major leakage, it lasted for months on my car (leaked from the crevices of the car, even the handles). This probably means they did a good job rustproofing. Just wash the car and it goes away, but then later the leaking comes back. It's best to rustproof when the weather is not too cold. I would recommend Krown again, but make sure you read the customer reviews because different locations might provide different standards of service.

 

I have been using Krown since 1990, so I can also comment on its effectiveness. Both cars rust free after 15 years.

As for the dripping, I Krown my car late in the fall before the snow flies and leave it parked on the road in front of my house. Then after the first snowfall, I park in the driveway. If you are worried about staining, all I can say is that after the winter, I do not see any stains on the road where I sprayed the two family cars. I buy Krown T40 in a pail and spray them myself using plenty of product.. My cars drip a lot as a result. An interlocking driveway, especially a light coloured one might be a different matter.

 

Thanks guys.

I had her Krowned a couple days ago. and have my driveway protected right now with old carpet, sheets etc. A few drips so far but the guy focused much more on the inner panels, doors etc as opposed to the underside since I had already gone underneath last fall and sprayed the hell out of it with this stuff, which seemed like a pretty good product: https://corrosionfree.com/store/rust...a-3000-2-pack/

 

It's interesting to hear folks from north of the border continuing to do rustproofing to modern-day vehicles. Living in NH, we get very similar winter conditions, and the salt usage is pretty significant. It used to be a cost of moving to a new car to have Ziebart applied to the car - both undercoating as well as interior panel protection. What I've found over the years is that with modern vehicle construction and materials used, it's pretty much overkill to do that process. The only underside rust I've seen in my vehciles is the unprotected suspension parts that you wouldn't want to protect in the first place. All of the body panels remain virtually untouched, even after 10+ years (such as the kid's Mini Cooper). I'd also contend that the undercoating process will make it harder to fix things such as fuel and brake lines when problems arise (as I experienced back in the mid 80's with cars I had rustproofed then).

Of course, YMMV in this area. I was just very surprised to hear of post-delivery rustproofing still happening in this era....

andy

 

Yeah, here it's still a thing. The usage of salt here in Toronto is ridiculous and obscene..they salt at the first sight of snow and don't plow the salty slush until it's a certain depth. Sometimes on the dry highway you have to drive through a constant cloud of salt dust that you can see and detect in your nostrils. I could send photos of a 10 yr old Pontiac Montana about 10 feet away from my driveway where the rail below the doors is rusted wide open all the way from the front wheel well to the rear wheel well. It is not uncommon to see rust at the bottom of the rear quarter panel, front fender, around the wheel well openings, or bottom of door, or front edge of hood. Every once in awhile you see a vehicle that is only a few years old where there is rust coming through from the inside. And there's miscellaneous stuff like exhaust hangers and stabilizer bar links that can get rusted to the point where they can actually just break...my personal pet peeve is highway driving when the road is wet and you are constantly bombarded by salt spray. It will get in everywhere...and one of my motivational factors to get this done is that my Rdx is white which will show rust like crazy if it occurs. 120 bucks cash IMHO is worth it.
BTW up here Ziebart is not considered money well spent and I don't even know if its available anymore. The products that seem to be preferred are creeping oil type sprays. Also, it will protect your brake and fuel lines and makes removal of fittings/nuts/bolts easier...also lubricates rubber bushings...yeah the mechanic may grumble that everything is oily and dirty but it goes with the territory for them.

 

I know that rubber bushings are not the same as rubber weatherstripping (i.e. seals), but here is a related story.......

I had all my vehicles oil sprayed annually for almost 30 years, but over the last 10 years I stretch that out to about every 2nd or 3rd year. The longest I ever kept a vehicle was my wife's Honda Civic, which we had for about 12 years. It didn't have a single spot of visible rust after all those years, and I can only assume that the interior panels were also in great shape because the oil is never washed away from those areas like it is from the underside of the vehicle.

The only problem with that Honda was the sponge rubber seals that went all around the bottom edge of the hood perimeter and doors. The sponge rubber absorbed so much oil over the years that it began to expand length-ways, and as it got longer it started to droop outside of the hood and doors. I was using Oil Tech at the time, but recently switched to Krown and noticed that they spray the rubber seals with silicone spray prior to spraying the oil. I can only assume that they recognized what the oil was doing and used silicone to keep the oil from soaking in, kinda like waterproofing your shoes with silicone.

 

Yeah I read that recently. There does not seem to be any oil on my weather stripping even along the bottom of the doors and hopefully it stays that way. Maybe I should give them a little love with a protectant of some kind but I personally would avoid any products containing silicone. There may be some cheap body butter with Vitamin E kicking around here.

 

I wasn't aware of any problems with silicone, what have you heard?

Even before using it to protect the weatherstripping from the oil, I used to spray all my weatherstripping annually with silicone to prevent the rubber from sticking to the door frame under certain weather conditions, and then tearing when I opened the door. In the winter the silicone repelled water from the weatherstripping and helped to prevent doors that were frozen shut,

I also spray the seal around my garage door to prevent excess wear from the constant sliding up and down. It also seems to make the door quieter for a few weeks.

 

Just a personal bias against silicone-containing products like Armour-All. Mainly due to the fact that I used to be on a forum devoted to classic Cougars (67-73) (I restored a 69) and there were a lot of guys who claimed Armour All actually promoted cracking dashboards and vinyl seats if used on a long term basis and it was due to the silicone. So once I installed the new vinyl top on the cougar, I started using a wonderful protectant called Formula 303 which is silicone free. The manufacturer's website FAQ had this in it:

DOES 303 ® AEROSPACE PROTECTANT™ CONTAIN SILICONE?

303® Aerospace Protectant™ does not contain any harmful silicone oils, which can dry out and damage surfaces.

Having said that, I use silicone grease a lot at work for various things but I will NEVER put silicone products on my dash, seats etc....for weatherstripping I probably wouldn't care too much and I agree that pampering the weatherstripping is not a bad idea at all.

 

The fact is, you never have to fix fuel and brake lines if they have been treated. The lines on my 15 year Honda were like new and it is now in the hands of a friend in year 18.

As for my neighbour across the street, he junked his Honda Accord after ten years due to rusted out lines. He could not be bothered fixing them.

 

Well if it is, I hope it isn't the same product I used to spray back in the mid-70s at the VW dealer...a tar coating which is complete garbage. It would dry out after a number of years, then crack and flake and the salt would get under it.

The only effective product is one that stays a liquid and creeps. I my experience using it for 27 years, that would be Krown.

This was my Honda in the 10th year...(installed a new upper A arm)


And my Honda in the 14th year after 14 harsh winters...

 

CBC, Halifax NS noon hour radio program has specialists on - such as plumbers, painters gardeners etc. On occasion the have a guy by the name of Mr. Bethune. This man is a genius! You can ask him about any problem with just about any vehicle and he will have an answer. Ask him about undercoating a vehicle and although he says that RustCheck is a good product, he always recommends Krown. I don't believe that there are any longer any Zeibart franchises on the east coast but I do remember when for a long time it was considered the best undercoating available.

 

Here is a video that shows you how it is applied. It uses an oil based carrier and seems to work well in the video

 

Had my Camry sprayed in late December 2016 in Toronto before shipping it out west. Dripped for a 7-8 months. Glad I don't have to do it again on the west coast.

 

7-8 months? That is not my experience having used the product since 1990.

In fact, I have been applying Krown annually to my car using my compressor and applicator gun since about 2000 and I really douse my car. It'll drip for a few weeks but that is it.

 

I usually get mine done during the summer months for a number of reasons.....

1) If I wake up and it's a nice day with no rain, I can usually call and get an opening the same day, no need to make an appointment which is what happens after the first snowfall.
2) Without any dampness already on the car, I feel that that the oil will make better contact to a dry surface. (I know all these companies say it can be sprayed on a wet car, I just feel better getting it done when mine is dry).
3) The oil will remain thinner due to the heat, and "creep" inside folded seams which could never be reached directly by the spray.

And after reading your post, maybe a new 4th reason is that the excess oil will flow more quickly from the drainage holes in the doors and the undercarriage, and reduce the dripping time from several months to just 1 week.

I am only speaking about actual drips onto the roadway. It is not uncommon to see semi-circular oil stains moving upwards from the door and hatch bottoms as the oil exiting the drain holes "creeps"upwards. That type of "creeping" can last for several months, but it is easily removed with regular washes. I like to see those upward moving oil stains because it gives me an idea of what is happening in the hidden interior panels.

BTW, what product was it that dripped for 7-8 months.

 

Rick, the government labs where I worked tested products to recognized test standards and the Krown came out on top. That was back in 1996 and I had been using the product since 1990 when I had Krown apply it. Mind you, I removed access plugs and door trim panels so they did not have to drill holes.

I always apply the Krown in October/November and even the thicker T40-gold (compared to T32-pink) flows well. It displaces moisture not that I ever needed to spray it in the wet. Since I do my own application, I pick my day.

And I tell everyone that three application in the first three years and then every second year thereafter is fine if they do not want to apply it every year. Besides, the interior panels certainly do not need it every year.

I'll be spraying my new RDX within the next few weeks. Damn messy job though since I do it myself.

 

Sorry I didn't read the post correctly and I should clarify my comment. Dripping I'd say a month or so. It was still dripping a little in my garage mid-February, spots here and there. Not as bad as the first few weeks. The 7-8 months I reference, the stuff still seeped out of the crevices from time to time. I noticed this till about July. The trunk area was by far the worse for me. After washing the car and drying pretty well (but may be not well enough) after a few days the stuff will run out to the rear bumper.

This is the Krown product. I've also read that the Krown stuff does affect the rubber seals after awhile, but they do warrant the product and replace seals that have been affect due to the product. The hood rubber seal (hood to front grill) on my Camry has deformed somewhat and I can see it protruding from the hood after it is close. It doesn't affect functionality but I will probably replace it some day.

There is another product Corrosion Free:

https://corrosionfree.com

that people on forums recommend. The stuff doesn't drip like the Crown product.

 

Anyone wishing to apply a corrosion treatment themselves and who also have a compressor (2 HP with 20 gallon tank or larger works best) will need an applicator gun and wands.

I've used the one that I bought at Eastwood back in 2000 and it has worked well enough. They have a newer design now.

But I recently bought one from TP Tools that appears to be nicer and looks like it will work better.

 

I applied Krown T40 to my vehicle today using the above applicator that I bought recently. What a joy to use a tool that works so much better than the applicator I used for fifteen-plus years. Sold by TP Tools, but the packaging listed Dominion Sure Seal Ltd out of Mississauga, Ontario.

Very little dripping due to far better control of the product being applied.

I will be making a 36 inch rigid metal wand which the kit lacks. All I need to do is source a quick change fitting. Other than that, I'd give the kit five stars.

 

I just got this same setup. After having used Krown for years (applied w/ a paint sprayer at 35psi), I finally used up my 5gal container. I picked up the above unit in order to get the wands and be able to run a higher psi. Apparently, approx 2-3 yrs ago, Krown started adding some petroleum-based compounds to their T40 and so it's now thicker. I would expect the petroleum to swell weatherstripping/rubber, so wipe down weatherstripping with silicone (per their advice to me).

Tech, I was just wondering what psi you ran using your new applicator?

Thanks in advance.

 

That has been the case since I started using Krown in 1990. The spongy foam strips running across the inside of the hood would deform and some door seals as well but I sooner have that and a car that is mint after 15 years than nice seals.

About 90. The info sheet that came with the unit states less than 84 psi when you look at the fine print at the bottom.

 

Thanks for the info. Did you manage to make a metal rod attachment? What did you use for a tip?

 

It'll be ready for next years application. I'll just crimp / form the end similar to the one in the kit.