Obi1kenobi69

Hi Folks,
Brand new to the forum, and soon to be brand new to owning an Acura (RDX) Vehicle.

I have a question relating to the body construction of the RDX. When I first started looking at new vehicles, I wanted the Audi Q5 - which had a galvanized frame (which meant I didn't really need rust proofing).
Moving along and buying the RDX meant I needed to understand whether or not I needed to rust proof it? I usually own my vehicles for 7-10 years so this is certainly an important step in maintaining those vehicles for a long period of time.
I can only find this; 'Galvanized Steel/Aluminum Panels' when describing the body of the RDX, but what does 'Panels' mean or imply? Is it door panels, hood panel, frame ect...

Also, anyone know about this FinalCoat electromagnetic device? The dealer is trying to get me to buy, and although it sounds plausible, the folks on the interweb seem to think it's useless...

I used Krown for most my vehicles, but I hate that they need to drill into the frame of my newly purchased vehicle and I only usually keep up with it for 2-3 years before I stop going.

Any answers to these questions would be great.
Thanks,
Frank.

ceb

Modern cars do not need aftermarket rustproofing. Aftermarket rustproofing will actually cause issues with the "rust through" warranty?

How many modern cars (ie from 2000 onwards) have you seen that didn't look totally abused that had significant rust issues? That answer would be "zero."

hand-filer

Hi Frank,
The folks on the internet are correct. These devices are indeed a scam just like all of the other dealer added (no) value extras. Say no to all of them including documentation fees.

AXMACD

Canadian winters are hard on vehicles so that's why I undercoat mine to give them a fighting chance. I bought a used Civic a few years, it was 4 years old at the time and beginning to show rust on the rear dog leg (pretty typical for those cars). I had it sprayed by Krown every fall and it hasn't spread and no new rust spots have formed.

The RDX is what's driven most, I won't keep it more than 5-6 years so there's no point getting it undercoated every fall. The Krown process is messy but it does work. I opted to go for the 10 year undercoating from the dealer. I know I was raped in the price ($700 ) but this way it won't have to be done again, if it rusts the dealer will fix it. I used to keep my vehicles for 8+ years but now there's no point keeping them well undercoated for somebody else.

Comfy

As I understand, all the coating / paint protection being offered by the dealer are a total scam. Many have reported that even if you purchase some paint coating, all they do is just wash the car and charge $$$ saying it has been done. Some dealers were insisting that all their cars on the lot are coated and wanted to charge the amount as mandatory. Many customers paid it thinking they are protected , but for those who questioned , they waived off the charge.... putting the question mark if any job was done at all .....So the bottom line is, if you pay anything extra to the dealer for these services, all you have done is just wasted away the hard bargaining which you have done for the price and paid the original price which they wanted to sell the car for. These are just sales tactics so that you feel good even though you paid the same high price.
Just imagine as you drive out with the new car they will be high fiving on how they duped and made a fool of you. I was in your same situation a few weeks ago and was about to fall for it when I did some research and the guys in this forum helped me as well.
If you still want to do some protection, do it separately at a body detailing shop something like opticoat , c quartz , clear bra, etc.

ceb

When I bought my BMW a few years back the dealer said they used "Auto Butler" sealant. When he tried to add it to the bill I balked and it took him two nanoseconds to agree. If the Auto Butler was actually ever applied then it is total trash.