Colorado Guy AF Ret.

Here are some suggestions:
1. Research the place you are thinking of going to. Ask friends..or anyone you can find for an endorsement...or not.
2. If parts are being replaced, let them know you want to see the old ones when you pick the car up.
3. Most important...when you find a reputable place and mechanic...stick with him/her. Talk to them on a personal level.

I only go to my Honda dealer....there are only 2 techs that I will use. Not that there aren't others' capable, but, these 2 I've gotten to know personally and they treat my care with extreme care, cause they know how I am about my cars. Both are at the highest level of Honda training...one used to be the Service Mgr. He just didn't want to do it anymore.

Dealers have deals on oil changes. And coupouns. Check it all out

mwachel

You just explained your low mileage numbers. If you are accelerating and your tires are slipping then you have an extremely heavy foot. Unless you are on ice your tires shouldn't be slipping even with your tire pressure at 44. To get good mpg's you have to be easy on it and not have a lead foot.

Just my 2¢

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

IF someone has 44 lbs of tire pressure.... which obviously is not right or correct.....the tire will have less contact patch on the ground and even on dry pavement with this fairly hot RDX of ours it will break the tires loose. But, true, it would take a heavy foot off the stop light.

I'm seeing, as always with past new cars, this RDX really has some grunt...some real get up and go...as it breaks in more. I've owned many high performance cars...and yes I know what "true high performance is like"...but, this RDX is plenty quick. I have a '12 Accord Cpe. V6 and it's a quick one too. Fun to drive with paddle shifters. But, nothing beats the growl of a Corvette or Mustang when you're "on the gas!"

The more I drive the RDX...which is not that much since my wife has pretty much taken it over!!.....I really like driving it. For the money it's hands down one of the best buys in the entry level luxury SUV market on the road. IMO...based on the fact...I'm an old fart...or getting there...and have owned a ton of cars, SUV's and trucks. And have driven a ton of others that friends have owned or ones I have test driven just for fun.

Domm

Anyone have a comment on the Honda website of the 2013 RDX spec sheet stating that it requires 7 quarts of oil when the manual says 4.5 Quarts?

http://www.honda.com/newsandviews/ar...spx?id=6551-en

Vividsi

I also noticed when the car was first released they said it had a timing chain, but it has a belt. maybe by 2014 they will figure out how they built the car.

dc5k20z1

all this talk about tire pressure..... my tires were also at 42 psi when I took delivery, never bothered changing it. But now im going to lower the psi, who knows it may even help with the clunking from the rear....

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

[quote=Domm;14274869]Anyone have a comment on the Honda website of the 2013 RDX spec sheet stating that it requires 7 quarts of oil when the manual says 4.5 Quarts?

Open your Owner's Manual and go to the back section on oil/filter. It will tell you how much oil is needed with and without a new filter. That's your guide.

Chevron Guy

Colorado Guy AF Ret. - I couldn't agree more with your explanation on which oil to use. Honda pays their engineers and scientists big bucks to figure this stuff out. Why would I want to spend any more time than reading the manual and acting accordingly? Besides if anything goes wrong, hey you followed the manual, if it's wrong, then it's Honda's problem. It's like I told my wife when she wanted to buy all the ingrediants to make pina coladas... I said Company XYZ has food scientists working on getting a very good mix, just add booze and ice,.... but OH NO! I make pina coladas once every 5 years and I'll get it perfect on the very first try! (Not!)

PS - 44 psi in tires... again.. read the manual.

madrye28

My car is at 6K and at 30% oil life....Today, coincidentally, I received a coupon for a FREE A1 service which includes Oil change, Tire rotation, and tire pressure check from the dealership where I leased the vehicle. How cool is that?!? This includes standard oil, which I am fine with (I lease the car and don't Give a F*** about it after 3 years, lol ) Only drawback is I have another dealership 3 miles away, but driving the 30 miles I think is well worth it. Has anybody else received any free promos/coupons for oil changes? I just got it in the mail today.

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

What's the 44 psi about?? Specifications Section...Owner's Manual, page 345....33 psi rec. tire pressure. Also, the plaque inside the driver's door frame...tells the same. The MAX the tire should ever be inflated to is: 44 psi cold. And that is on the side of the tire in a "Warning Box" that also states the Max weight load per tire.

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

Acura sends them out using data from the sale records. I got one today. It is for the VIN # that's on the card and can't be transferred. In my case I have 2 '13 Acuras...so it's specific to my first one bought....my RDX. And, it's for the dealer I bought the RDX from....which is not the same place I bought the 2nd Acura from...so I don't wish to use it. I like the 2nd dealership. They are both 60 to 70 miles away. I will have my normal servicing done by my Honda dealer where I have their top Serv. Rep do all my work. He normally does not do oil changes....but, for me he does.

madrye28

I have a Honda dealership across the street from my house who did our 2010 TSX (Plus they charge $15 less than the Acura dealership) I'll probably do the same thing next time.

madrye28

44 PSI is unheard of....and it must make the ride very rough. I usually stick with 36-38 PSI, otherwise at 33 I would be going to the gas station every couple of weeks, and "I ain't got time for dat".

weather

[QUOTE=Chevron Guy;14277526]It's like I told my wife when she wanted to buy all the ingrediants to make pina coladas... I said Company XYZ has food scientists working on getting a very good mix, just add booze and ice,.... but OH NO! I make pina coladas once every 5 years and I'll get it perfect on the very first try! (Not!)QUOTE]

You better hope she doesn't browse Acurazine or you may have to get cozy with the living room sofa *lol* But I hear ya

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

Note that the 44 psi is NOT what is recommended but, simply the MAX pressure that Michelin says should ever be put in that tire. Just like minimums....there are maximums so folks have a standard to go by and understand.

If 36 to 38 makes you happy then fine. Depending on altitude and climate that # can rise to well over 40 lbs on the road. There is a "happy medium" and it should be based on altitude, temps, and carrying capacity that is needed. That is virtually standard for all tires. Also, I should not forget to mention there are different types of tires for different uses...and thus consideration should be thought about for those too.
Tire pressure should always be measured when the tires are "cold"...been off the road for some time.

I'm not sure why 33 lbs is harder to maintain than 36??? It's not. If there are no tire or wheel problems the tire pressure will maintain whether at 30 or 36 or wherever.....so that each time you check when they are cold the pressure would normally be what you put in it. Quite often when I check my tire pressures they are exactly where I set them 1, 2 maybe 3 weeks prior. Sometimes, of course, I do have to adjust the pressure....that is considered a "normal" have to from time to time.
I would suggest a somewhat inexpensive air pump that is powered by the 12 volt outlet...or directly connecting to the battery posts and a quality tire gauge to have at home. I have done this for many years. I check the tires often..at least once a week...and keep the tires just where I want them. That's why I get longer more even tread wear.....along with rotating the tires now around 4,000 miles.

Non emergency trips to the gas station are just not necessary to air tires. I've had the same air pump for about 6 yrs and use it all the time. It cost approx. $40 and my Blue Point air gauge, purchased from a Snap On dealer/truck was about $18. Had the gauge accuracy checked at my Honda dealer by my "guy" who has a calibrated gauge that the shop uses as the standard to go by.
So, not a bad investment that has given me great service for 6 yrs. The gauge is over 7 yrs old, and, still accurate.
Those $1.99 "pencil type" gauges....or the many others out there that are "cheap" aren't trustworthy...in my many years of experience. Learned lessons......that pay off by buying better quality. And saves money in the long run.

Dorsey

I did not get a free oil change coupon but my dealer emails me specials about once every 2 weeks. I normally change my own oil but wanted them to evaluate the deforming rear fender liner so I took it to them. They did a full synthetic oil change, filter and tire rotation at 6300 miles (15% MID). Total cost with $10 off coupon was $63 so your coupon is a nice treat.

madrye28

First, my original post was agreeing with you on 44 PSI was too high. With that said, here are my "reasons" why I keep my tire pressure at 36 rather than 33. Temperature fluctuations cause a (temporary) drop in pressure. I notice that when I had it at 33, it would drop below 30 on a cold morning causing an error message (and then gradually increase as I was driving). I would rather have it at 36, and have it drop to 33-31 as I do not have time to check and adjust my tire pressure once per week. Personal preference, but thanks for the detailed analysis!!

Chevron Guy

Colorado Guy AF Ret - Sorry about the 44 psi comment, was not directed at you, but rather at those that thought 44 psi was proper.

supera

From what I have read all 0W-20 is full synthetic.You should use this for the life of the vehicle.I have also read the new GM trucks coming out this summer will use this weight,so as more vehicles switch to it,it should be more available.I have only found it in Mobil 1 and Valvoline.

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

Don't believe that is correct. The standard oil used is not synthetic. You can use it...same weight....as the Owner's Manual says.....but, there is nothing wrong with non synthetic 0W20 oil. As long as you use the proper rated oil.

supera

AF retired,I am not arguing,I just like to learn all I can from these sites.I am 62 myself and retired.I have looked at Quaker state,Pennzoil,Valvoline,and Mobil1's websites and 0W20 is only available in full syn.Don't know if the rdx was shipped with fossil oil in it or not,my dealer does oil changes for 50 bucks using Mobil1.

Doubtit

Agree only 0W-20 I have found is synthetic. As to engine tolerances as reason, don't know, but have read that Honda and Acura recomend 0W-20 because that is what they used in EPA tests to have a little MPG gain....???

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

Not sure why you got that impression...sorry. 0W20 from Honda Motor Corp. is fossil.....std. high quality, detergent added oil. Synthetic is optional. Acura dealers apparently are pushing that to make more money. Accords and some other Hondas have almost the identical engine as the RDX and they use fossil oil, 0W20. Nothing wrong with that. I had an Accord Cpe with the "same" engine and it used the same oil. Didn't burn it, use it...it's what
Honda engine engineers used to test these close tolerance engines all over the world. In the highest and lowest temperatures. I have complete faith....now....in the newer low viscosity oils. Old fashioned...learned with much higher viscosity oils in my engines, 20, 30 yrs ago. Used 20W50 in my factory high performance engines. But, tolerances were not near as tight as the engines are today.

I have no intentions of switching to synthetic. Just keep what I have changed with filter. That's how they were designed and tested. If that didn't work, then there would be a LOT of Hondas and Acuras on the side of the road waiting for the flat bed!!

Take care! Love my RDX.

Dorsey

My first experience with fully synthetic was a 77 Ford F-150 I bought new. Mobil 1 had recently been brought to market so I tried it - crazy expensive and the rear main leaked because the seals were not made for it. I started using it again in a new 98 integra and have not used anything except fully synthetic since. I put an oil pan gasket in the teg at 200k miles and you could eat off the inside of the pan. Same with the valve cover when I replaced the timing belt and cam seals. Same with the valve cover on my Titan bought new and with 130k miles. I think the benefits of fully synthetic (less or no sludge, slightly better mileage) outweigh the cost if you plan to keep the car a long time. It is a bit like the premium vs. regular gas threads on the forum - premium recommended but some choose not to use and there is no real harm. Agree that using recommended oil viscosity is very important whether synthetic or dino. However, I too have never seen 0-20 dino; maybe in a syn blend, certainly in fully synthetic.

Davecpa

My first was my 2005 BMW. I switched to full synthetic on our 2002 TL which I just gave to our daughter running great at 200,000 miles. I did my own oil and filter change on our RDX when the MID suggested which was at 9,000 miles. Put in Mobil 1 and we now have over 15,000 miles and the MID is at 40%. Have not ever had to add oil so far. Just checked and it's full up. Anyone else have 15,000 in six months of ownership? RDX runs great and no problems.

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

Just to add more info on this issue. 0W20 that came in your new RDX was NOT synthetic....fossil.
I just got an email from my dealer listing their "specials." Regular 0W20 oil and filter change is $39.95....now for $29.95.
If you want synthetic....reg. price is $79.95....now for $59.95. At least they offer a choice, rather than some Acura dealers saying they only use synthetic. Yeah....I wonder why???!!!! Look at the extra profit margin!

Just had my 1st A1 service today at my Honda dealer done by my friend...who happens to be the shop mgr. and fully Honda certified in everything. 5,400 miles with the 15% remaining warning.
Oil filters are all the same for the Honda V-6's by the way.

supera

I also would be satisfied with fossil oil for my rdx,but it just isn't available anywhere.Honda does sell their own oil,0W20 comes in synthetic blend or full synthetic.I prefer to just buy Mobil1 from Walmart and I order my honda filters and washers online at a big savings.Honda 4 and 6 cylinders all use the 15400 oil filter.I feel for you guys that have to pay these huge prices for oil changes.I know that most people can not change their own oil,it is a messy job.
AF retired,if your dealer says he has 0W20 in fossil,he must be the only one.Next time you go in for service please take a look at what he is using.

Colorado Guy AF Ret.

I get to go back into the shop area anytime my cars are there.
YES....the 0W20 oil he put in was NOT synthetic. He asked if I wanted it...and I said no.
Also....if you had seen my thread on the email I got from my Acura dealer....it says they were offering oil changes at discounts.....that included "fossil" 0W20 OR synthetic 0W20. They didn't say fossil but, that was the std. oil change.

So, I don't know why others are having such problems with oil.....but, again....IF I had wanted to drive the 60 miles to my Acura dealer to do an A1 service I would have had the option of either type of 0W20 weight oil....fossil or synthetic.

At my Honda dealer I had the same choice there too.

Dorsey

Here is a recent post from a CR-V forum. I cannot guarantee its accuracy but it is similar to postings on some other Honda forums. IMO the lower price dealer changes are using the semi-synthetic and upgrading to the fully synthetic for the extra charge.

Actually, Honda has three 0W-20s that the company is now selling as "Genuine Honda Motor Oil."

Two of the 0W-20s that Honda sells as Genuine Honda are bottled by ConocoPhillips (COP). One is a semi-synthetic, the other a full synthetic. Essentially they are the same as the two products that COP bottles for Ford under the Motorcraft label.

The other 0W-20 weight sold by Honda is manufactured by Idemitsu. That one, and only that one, has (as mentioned above) approximately 800 ppm of molybdenium. Honda imported it principally for use in its Insight hybrid, but it can be used in any automobile that specifies a 0W-20 weight oil. Connoisseurs of motor oil love it for its whopping dose of molybdenium which, arguably, is important (if not crucial) for proper lubrication in an engine that is subject to frequent starts and stops (i.e., a hybrid, in other words) and/or frequent cold- and semi-cold starts (again, a hybrid). Whether it offers any special or unique long-term anti-wear benefits when used in a conventional motor has been, and remains, the subject of considerable debate. The stuff is also expensive in comparison to other 0W-20s.

Comparing apples to apples -- i.e., comparing Honda's (COP) full synthetic to Mobil 1's 0W-20 -- the Mobil 1 product has a slightly greater viscosity range and its cSt at 100 degrees C is slightly higher. It also has a robust additive package. (Neither point is a matter of conjecture. You can compare the oil analyses of the two products on bobsistheoilguy.com.)

Thus, you actually have four choices, one of Honda's three 0W-20s or M1's 0W-20. You can't go wrong with any of them, and for what it's worth, in my humble opinion, it doesn't matter which one you choose. All have been tested extensively (the M1 oil for over a decade) and all produce virtually identical UOAs (used oil analyses). (Again, bobistheoilguy.com is your friend.)