I hit 15% oil life at around 6800 miles with generally mixed highway/city driving. Took the RDX in to the dealer about 100 miles later. The service advisor told me they used 0W20 because the service manual strongly reccomends the first change stay with that spec. The service ran $80 but they buffed out a few minor scuffs I had on the bumper for free so all in all it wasn't all that bad.

Has anyone else hit their first service? If so, did they stick to 0W20?

 

I haven't taken the our new RDX in yet but we have a 2002 TL with 200,000 miles and I'm still using 0-20 syn. on that car and it still does not burn any oil!

 

Did not do first service yet but wanted to say you are best staying with the 0W20 especially being in the north with the colder weather on the way. $80 is not bad considering you would pay about $35 for the 0W20 oil and filter if you did it yourself. Plus they should have looked over the entire car for problems, tire rotation, probably topped off your washer fluid, and you did get the body detail.

 

I'm really happy with the dealership so far - Smithtown Acura.

One thing I did see was they claim "If you repair your vehicle with us the trade value increases substantially because we have full access to the service records and know that there are no after-market parts on the vehicle. " - I can't imagine that there's much to that if your vehicle is in good shape. Maybe they might toss you an extra hundred bucks if you trade in there just because they've made money on you in the service department but that's probably it.

 

So is it 80 for the straight oil change? and they aren't encouraging a mobil 1 upgrade?

 

Nice, i been using m1 0w30 on my 05 tsx for over 80k, runs fine. Gotta see if my local store stocks 0w20

 

My family and I go there for our car's service, they are a great dealership.


mdx, tl, tsx

 

too bad im too far, last time i'm at smithtown was like 10 years ago at suny sb

 

I'm only at 26xx miles with my rdx and the oil life is already at 15%. How did you manage to get up to 6xxx? I'm thinking maybe cause I'm driving mostly in the city?

 

I'm at 1600 and 70%, mostly city as well.

 

Hmm i feel like there's something wrong with my rdx. Cause the oil change is a bit early imo and also my MPG isn't that great either. I'm getting on average at Local streets 11.5 mpg. I have my Trip A Reset at every fill up so i know what's my average each time. My trip B is giving me over all of 15 mpg. I'm thinking about bringing it in just to see what acura has to say.

 

Predominantly city over the 1700 miles, couple of longer highway trips, I'm at 19.2 total and it's slowly creeping up as the engine is now more broken in. Running premium, but have a heavy right foot and have been enjoying the get up and go...did notice on the highway that the gauge would stay in the high 20's / low 30's, especially with cruise set below 65. 11.5 or even 15 would seem horribly low.

 

What are your tire pressures?

 

When I first got the car i drove 2 hours on highway and was impressed I could get around 30 MPG. But once I started to drive the car locally back and from work I would get around 11.5. I asked in another post about the mpg but most said having 15 mpg is normal if you are driving locally with lights and stop signs (That was a combined mileage of Highway and City Driving). But after a month or so it seems like the MPG keeps on decreasing.

around 41 that's what the display says, I'm going to check manually later.

 

I'm not sure if Gas matters, But I'm also using premium fuel 93 octane from shell. I heard their supposedly better for honda engines with their v-power nitrogen gas. Could this be a factor?

 

I may be wrong, but 41 psi seems to be high.

 

It is high. The door panel states 33 psi is recommended.

 

That's what they had it at when I first got the car so I assume it's standard. Although the recommended is at 33, the tires itself says 44 psi. So I'm not sure which is correct, but beyond that do tires having above the recommended 33 psi lowers MPG? I would assume having lower than that would cause it.

 

44 was a mistake caused by someone who really doesn't care about your car and was just told to inflate them. Usually when something says recommended and is permanently labeled on your vehicle, it is a good idea to follow it unless reverse psychology is involved. If that's the case then, yes, 44 psi is GREAT. Higher tire pressure usually means some improvement in gas mileage but there are more downsides that up. Your ride will be rougher, your tires will wear unevenly, and you essentially give up some traction (wet and dry) because less tire is touching the road.

 

I am at 6200 miles and remaining oil life is 20%, so I will be getting the first service soon. Am averaging 23.2 mpg with mixed highway and city driving and have been using premium fuel.

 

Yeah you're right. Occasionally when I was driving it on the road and accelerating from stop, the tires would slip. I thought at first the car had too much power. But I guess I should have better grip now from lowering the tire pressure. Too bad the electronic gauge doesn't show the exact tire pressure atm you released the air. Luckily I own my own tire pressure gauge. Had a tough time releasing the air out of the tires in the rain today and there were tornadoes around my area =_=. But I really want to find out of my MPG is accurate for me, cause it's around 11.5. I wonder if lowering the tire pressure will improve this although you would assume it wouldn't. We will see, Thanks.

 

It's not just the FIRST oil change....it's ALL changes. The Acura tech folks and Honda also....have designed these new engines to use 0W20 ALL the time. I know...I'm an old fart...but, a few yrs ago I couldln't believe the newer oil weights. But, I learned...with my tech background, that this is what these engines are designed for...and if anyone is changing that they are doing so at their own risk. If you read the Owner's Manual...it shows and tells you....always detergent grade 0W20 weight oil for all temperature conditions...period...nothing about the First Oil change. I've talked to the Honda engine tech reps...and Honda Motor Corp. as well as other auto manufacturers have put tons of miles on engines all over the world in crazy climates....running these newer designed engines with 0W20 oil during testing. These engines are running extremely close tolerances....and running a heavier weight oil in cold climates especially will be a problem. Oil too thick for the clearances.
Should be enough said.

 

The psi imprinted on every tire sidewall is the absolute MAXIMUM pressure you should ever fill the tire to when measured cold (i.e., vehicle has not been driven for 6+ hours).

You should NEVER set your tires to the max. The most you should go above the recommended 33 is 2-4 psi, otherwise you will affect handling (less grip & more body roll and greater chances of a blowout if you hit a pothole). Also, tires set too high will wear out more quickly in the center portion of the tire (the edges are not contacting the road as much as they should). That's my

 

My tires were inflated to 45 psi by the dealer for some reason as well. Strange. Anyway, 11.5 mgp is way to low. I drive mostly city and have a bit of a heavy foot as I am also enjoying the power. My mgp is running right about 20. I would have it looked at...

 

The tires are inflated that high for transport by the factory. During dealer prep, they're supposed to lower the pressure, check over the vehicle for any damage, etc...

 

Have you checked the PSI manually (with a guage) or using the in car pressure system? Ideally there should be little to no difference between the readings, I'm just curious if the in car readings are accurate.

 

Probably done so from factory to avoid flat spots during transport and time on dealer lot prior to delivery. As someone else mentioned, the dealer slacked off in their pre-delivery prep.

BTW, this is one of the best & most accurate tire pressure gauges on the market. I highly recommend it:

 

I checked the PSI manually with a gauge, it's accurate. I lowered the PSI to 35, but the temperature in nyc has been a roller coaster so the psi change from 35-38

 

How much of highway do you drive? cause I noticed I've been driving mostly locally with occasional highway.

 

speaking of computer display in the MID - does anyone have the feeling the thermometer reading outside temp is off (higher in my case by at least 5 deg F)?

 

I will run mine hard around town and it will only drop down to 17 - 18 ish mpg.
Do you floor it at every light?

 

This thread is about "First Service." I don't see what tire pressure and gas mileage have to do with getting your first service done. It's a stretch to tie those into getting oil changed, filters, inspection of brake wear, etc, etc. That's a Service. If you are having problems with gas mileage that's a maintenance service or warranty service.

 

I received an e-mail from my dealer yesterday that "your 2013 ACURA RDX is due for its regularly scheduled 5,000 mile check up. Routine maintenance is the key to extending the life of your vehicle."

I've read over the Maintenance section of the manual (pp. 267 - 316) and can't find any recommended maintenance intervals, like they had in the manuals for older Acuras (which were 7,500 mile minimums, not 5,000 miles). I need to see if there is a separate pamphlet for the RDX, like a maintenance diary, that has any recommended intervals.

I'm a big believer in doing regular service, but I don't plan to do anything until the Maintenance Minder in the Trip Computer tells me to (other than monitoring fluid levels, etc.). Right now, at around 4,500 miles, it's showing 50% Oil Life remaining, so I think I have more time before I need to take it to the dealer for the 1st service. And I trust they know to use the correct oil.

 

I just took my 2013 RDX in for service. Had 8629 miles on it with the MID displaying 20% oil life remaining. 95% of that is all highway driving.
When I first got the RDX, I kept getting conflicting opinions on when the oil changes should be done. My dealer told me around the 4000 mile mark or around 50% on the MID. However, after calling Acura and other dealers, they all seem to say listen to the MID.
When I took my car to my dealer for the first oil change, they got on me for waiting so long and said I needed to be at the 50% due to weather conditions and such in the area (St. Louis).

When asked about oil, I was informed it was a 5W20 and the 2013 RDX did not need synthetic.

 

The manual specifically calls for 0W20 on the reccomended oil page. It does indicate "you may use synthetic" so I wouldn't too much about that. And the 0W20 isn't required per se, you can use other viscosity grades if you like.

Did the service department give you the choice of using 0W20?

 

No, the service department didn't give me a choice. I asked after service was complete.
This dealer seems to do a lot of "we recommend X based on conditions we see in the area", like when they recommend changing the oil (around 50% on the MID or around 4000 miles). Its frustrating to know who to believe...the dealer telling me what they see and recommend or the Manual

 

OIL WEIGHT AND WHEN TO CHANGE

I understand that there are some fairly experienced or knowledgeable folks here and there are some, maybe, that are engineers and really know their stuff....and then there are plenty that engines, technical stuff is just not in their wheelhouse. And that's fine and dandy. Everyone has an opinion...and that's the problem. Those that really need help dont' truly get what they need other than upteen opinions, ideas, etc, etc.

I am retired early....but, during my working years I was a certified internal combustion engine trainer...gas and diesel...and also taught General Electric and Pratt and Whitney jet engines for aircraft manufacturers. I also was a trainer/teacher in a technical trade school for 5 years. Not saying I know everything and technology has left me in some areas over the years.......BUT....let me help those that truly need the help and information concerning engine oil weight and when to change in our RDX's specifically, but, this applies to all Honda engines which I am most recently most knowledgeable about.

And, folks, much of this is common sense mixed in with some tech info.

These new Honda/Acura engines have re-designed with the goal to have better fuel mileage. VERY close internal tolerances necessitate the new lighter weight oils....0W20 like our RDX. This weight is good for extreme cold temps as well as extreme hotter temps. These engines were run at high rpm's in different parts of the world. Japeanese engine techs did this for all Honda/Acura engines.

What does it say on your oil caps?? 0W20. It also states that in your manual. That IS the oil you will use, should use all the time. A detergent SAE approved 0W20. Synthetic is OK as long as it's the equivalent weight.
Period...that's it. One person here lead you all to believe you can eventually use any weight. Uhh...you believe that and I've got some fine swamp land to sell you in Florida.

So, with that statement...you let people think....OH...they can put in 20W50 oil maybe??
NO WAY! Trust me on that!!

Why are some folks wanting to stray away from what the Honda/Acura engine engineers worked years on, and don't seem to want to believe, that 0W20 all the time IS the oil you need to be using?? I personally have talked to the Honda/Acura area field service engineers and that IS the bottom line.

Why is everyone trying to get away from that. It's simple, straight forward. Change your oil and filter using 0W20 weight detergent, SAE approved oil. Period.

When To Change: Try and let the MDI get down to 15% or just before. It's not EXACT....there is a sliding scale......at 15% it can be as low as 9%. Not hard to figure out....IT'S IN YOUR MANUAL.

 

And so what "other viscosity grades if you like" are you talking about??? That's not correct and will lead unknowing folks to dumping in anything, any weight.

0W20 IS the oil weight you should be using all the time. Period. What is the oil weight on your oil cap??? 0W20. What does it say in your Owner's Manual?? 0W20 detergent grade, SAE approved oil.

And folks....there IS a reason that this is OK...not to be played with. I don't understand why some folks can't use common sense and follow what was tested by Honda/Acura engine engineers all over the world...running these engines in extreme cold climates and extremely hot climates...running the engines at high rpm's for extended periods.

That was done to validate that with these tight tolerance engines ( to help get better fuel mileage) 0W20 detergent oil IS what you use first time, second time.....ALL the time. Synthetic if you wish.
IF someone dumped 20W50 in one of these engines I guarantee you it will not be pretty.

I am now retired early....but, in my working days I was a certified internal combustion engine trainer. Gas and diesel. I also taught the General Electric and Pratt & Whitney jet engines for aircraft manufacturers. I worked for Boeing and Gulfstream Aircraft. I also taught a technical trade school for 5 years.

Much technology has passed me by, but, NOT all things. Plus I do my homework by talking to district tech engineers that know the latest. I've owned 5 new Hondas since 2007 and now have my '13 RDX. This issue has been raised by me back when the oil weights starting getting lower...in weight. I was not so certain....but, I was old school. I had to learn the latest...and how these engines are now made and how they have been tested.

When to Change: Try and get the MDI down to 15% if not just before. There is a sliding scale...meaning, when it reads 15% it can also be as low as 9%. How do I know this...??...hmmm, let me see....oh yeah....in your Owner's Manual. The % is not an EXACT science, but, Acura knows that. IF you are within a year of the last oil change then you are doing what the engine folks at Honda World Products know and tell you what works.

I realize that some dealers...service people seem to have all kinds of different pieces of info or their own personal thoughts and ideas on when to change and what weight to use. Follow the Owner's Manual. Use common sense and it will be fine. If you live in an extremely dusty windy climate then change a little earlier.

I can't understand when someone asks the question..."after your first oil change did you stay with 0W20 weight?" What kind of a question is that?? YES....that is what you need to do. Don't believe me then go elsewhere....like calling the Acura Tech line and find out the same info. that I just relayed to you here.

Too many people on here have their "personal ideas, thoughts, guesses...whatever" and then those that truly need the right help don't now what to do or what to believe.

Follow your Owner's Manual. USE the weight oil that is printed on your oil cap...it is 0W20. It's just that simple and easy. Why other's are trying to complicate this issue is way beyond me.

Some of you have expertise in areas I know nothing about. I know engines and I know that what I've expressed here to help the unknowing is the right information. Follow if you choose and you will be doing just fine. If you choose not to...of course that is your choice. But, I promise you that there is some info here that is way off base...stated by folks that don't know much about engines.

The SLIGHTLY more cumbersome issue is the "when to change." Again....follow your Owner's Manual and the MID. Changing at 50% in normal driving conditions is too early. I've already done the research on that issue. Let it get down closer to that 15% mark. IF you haven't driven much during the year....and let's say your are at 50% and the oil has been in a year.......Change It!! A year is the longest you want to leave oil in the crankcase. Where else do you see that information??? IN YOUR Owner's Manual.

Happy motoring. My RDX is consistantly getting 22 to 24 mpg in city only driving. Very impressed! And that's doing the math...the computer is pretty close though. ONE reason it does get very good mileage.....and there are numerous reasons.....but, it's the close tolerance engines using 0W20 weight oil. The cylinder deactivation system is another big one.

 

I've had bad experiences with maintenance facilities that I'm so incredibly untrusting. For example, my RSX that has 171,000 miles went in for some work and then came out with the ACURA dealer showing a laundry list of things that were NEEDED. One of them was "replace timing belt." Which was several HUNDRED dollars plus labor. I didn't do it, did research, and learned my car doesn't have a belt it has a chain. And the chain was fine and didn't need replacement.

Long story short - I can't trust anyone. So question - you tell them to put specific oil in. Is there truly any way to check they did? How do I know they aren't saving money and putting in cheap oil that doesn't even meet specs? Aside from "change your own oil."

 

For my TL's, I used Royal Purple synthetic oil. I could always tell it was RP because of the color of the oil on the dipstick.