Powder Coating Wheels
07-03-2003, 09:43 AM
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Racer
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Powder Coating Wheels
Wondering if anyone knows of a good place to get wheels powder coated. I live in Northern NJ. I'm looking to see if I could get my wheels powder coated glossy black.
Thanks,
Erik
Thanks,
Erik
07-03-2003, 12:50 PM
#2
TRELOS
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i wanna know too..haha
07-03-2003, 01:02 PM
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Eric: Powder coatin dave here. I can't tell you who is good, but if you visit www.pci.com you will get the powder coating institute web site, and at least you can find out who is where.
I have SPECIALLY powder coated wheels that I cannot make, although I can powder coat basically anything, but I do not have a vapor deposition chamber is why. See Dfreder370 new ride posted by smitty if you want to see them. It's back a few pages.
Some advice for you here (and there are a couple ways to do this):
Do NOT use epoxy chemistry. They will chalk in sunlight and rather quickly I might add.
Polyester TGIC (Triglyceride Isocyanurate) is preferred chemistry.
Acrylic Chemistry is what is used on alloy wheel finishes now. Especially clears.
Straight polyester and straight polyurethane are OK also, but they ares listed as the top being the best.
Pay ALOT of attention the the gloss of the finished, selected product. Most people think that it is PREFERRED if the wheel gloss exceedes the car finish and it is OK if it matches the body gloss, and a lot of people with low gloss wheels look IFFY, and that is being gracious.
Also, make DAMN SURE the present wheels get 100 percent sandblasted and stripped of all of the former paint such that you are down to bare metal. Lose the wheel weights before you do this. This is important: for powder coatings to adhere (notice was do not say "stick") to the wheels, they must be given a clean, dry and textured surface, and then PROPERLY CURED.
Powder spec sheets usually say "cure at 375 f for 12 minutes AFTER reaching PMT (part metal temperature)." and thin metal plates will show that degree of cure for gloss and color selection.
It may have taken that thin steel sheet 18 to 20 minutes or so to get 375 for 12, but that 25 pound wheel will need to be cured in an oven set for 400F for probably more like an hour (or more).
If there is anything you want from a powder coater who paints your wheels, it is a powder coater who COMPLETELY CURES or even OVERCURES your wheels. If your wheels are not cured, they will chip easily and probably look glossier than other parts of the wheel. If you are on borderline cure when you get the wheels back, they will be shiney where there is more metal mass, and thin sections will appear noticibly duller. If that happens, don't accept. Back to the oven it goes for two hours this time.
Be sure to mask off (not you) the back of the wheel where contact to the rotor is made. You do not want paint there. If it is there, and it is uneven, the wheel could wobble.
By now, I think you might have gathered some knowledge about this powder coating stuff. If you need help, reply or pm me. It is pretty hard to screw this up, but, it can be done, And, have you given any thought as to what are you going to do about your almost certainly ABS plastic wheel centers, that WILL certainly melt if exposed to the temperatures powder requires?
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.............
I have SPECIALLY powder coated wheels that I cannot make, although I can powder coat basically anything, but I do not have a vapor deposition chamber is why. See Dfreder370 new ride posted by smitty if you want to see them. It's back a few pages.
Some advice for you here (and there are a couple ways to do this):
Do NOT use epoxy chemistry. They will chalk in sunlight and rather quickly I might add.
Polyester TGIC (Triglyceride Isocyanurate) is preferred chemistry.
Acrylic Chemistry is what is used on alloy wheel finishes now. Especially clears.
Straight polyester and straight polyurethane are OK also, but they ares listed as the top being the best.
Pay ALOT of attention the the gloss of the finished, selected product. Most people think that it is PREFERRED if the wheel gloss exceedes the car finish and it is OK if it matches the body gloss, and a lot of people with low gloss wheels look IFFY, and that is being gracious.
Also, make DAMN SURE the present wheels get 100 percent sandblasted and stripped of all of the former paint such that you are down to bare metal. Lose the wheel weights before you do this. This is important: for powder coatings to adhere (notice was do not say "stick") to the wheels, they must be given a clean, dry and textured surface, and then PROPERLY CURED.
Powder spec sheets usually say "cure at 375 f for 12 minutes AFTER reaching PMT (part metal temperature)." and thin metal plates will show that degree of cure for gloss and color selection.
It may have taken that thin steel sheet 18 to 20 minutes or so to get 375 for 12, but that 25 pound wheel will need to be cured in an oven set for 400F for probably more like an hour (or more).
If there is anything you want from a powder coater who paints your wheels, it is a powder coater who COMPLETELY CURES or even OVERCURES your wheels. If your wheels are not cured, they will chip easily and probably look glossier than other parts of the wheel. If you are on borderline cure when you get the wheels back, they will be shiney where there is more metal mass, and thin sections will appear noticibly duller. If that happens, don't accept. Back to the oven it goes for two hours this time.
Be sure to mask off (not you) the back of the wheel where contact to the rotor is made. You do not want paint there. If it is there, and it is uneven, the wheel could wobble.
By now, I think you might have gathered some knowledge about this powder coating stuff. If you need help, reply or pm me. It is pretty hard to screw this up, but, it can be done, And, have you given any thought as to what are you going to do about your almost certainly ABS plastic wheel centers, that WILL certainly melt if exposed to the temperatures powder requires?
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.............
07-03-2003, 01:27 PM
#5
Drifting
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Goodrich did my wheels, Dfreder370...
Cheap, too.
Goodrich coating technology is reliable and corrosion resistant. The materials are expensive (relatively speaking, for powder), but not much is used per wheel. Material cost per wheel, probably $5 to $10 for all three coats, per wheel.
But the process is a batch process, so, lots of batches sit around while others are processed. Figure the coating process eats up three days, minimum, and I would figure five.
But the big problem here would undeniably be shipping.
If you still want standard, high gloss black, stick near NJ. The shipping costs will kill you, or the time will.
Do not bother to ask for this finish at the powder coating shop down the block. They cannot do it, and they are lying to you if they say they can. There are "chrome" powder coatings out there, but they look like tarnished silver, and no reflection.
Goodrich is the only company that can apply this chrome (it really is chrome, sandwiched between plastic) look in the lower 48 states.
Cheap, too.
Goodrich coating technology is reliable and corrosion resistant. The materials are expensive (relatively speaking, for powder), but not much is used per wheel. Material cost per wheel, probably $5 to $10 for all three coats, per wheel.
But the process is a batch process, so, lots of batches sit around while others are processed. Figure the coating process eats up three days, minimum, and I would figure five.
But the big problem here would undeniably be shipping.
If you still want standard, high gloss black, stick near NJ. The shipping costs will kill you, or the time will.
Do not bother to ask for this finish at the powder coating shop down the block. They cannot do it, and they are lying to you if they say they can. There are "chrome" powder coatings out there, but they look like tarnished silver, and no reflection.
Goodrich is the only company that can apply this chrome (it really is chrome, sandwiched between plastic) look in the lower 48 states.
07-03-2003, 07:04 PM
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Drifting
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Nicky: Next time you are at woodfield acura (I was there today), check out the wheel center in the middle wheel in the display case. it is high gloss black, and should look nice with your wheels.
However, I gave you the solution to this, but you never replied as to what ever, if anything you did.
I doubt the diameters, and the wheel attach method would be the same, but, it's a start. When you getting yer wheels?
However, I gave you the solution to this, but you never replied as to what ever, if anything you did.
I doubt the diameters, and the wheel attach method would be the same, but, it's a start. When you getting yer wheels?
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07-04-2003, 09:41 AM
#9
Racer
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Originally posted by Juker008
Now tell me who's tits are those.
Now tell me who's tits are those.
I wish I knew.
Anyhow, dfreder370, thanks for all the information and advice, if you don't mind I'm going to PM you this coming week to ask you some more questions. This really helped, thanks again.
-Erik
07-04-2003, 02:40 PM
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Erik: I will be out of town on a looooooooong powder coating project for the company. Leaving 7/7 at 10:00 central, return 7/11 dinner time. If you have specific questions, lets hit them sooner rather than later.
This is a rediculously easy and bullet proff process AS LONG AS CERTAIN GUIDELINES ARE FOLLOWED TO THE LETTER. You should pm nicky pass, who had his wheels powder coated, but the powder coater did not strip the original finish, he just put powder on "on top" of the original finish, and the coatings were not compatible. Very expensive lesson.
This is a rediculously easy and bullet proff process AS LONG AS CERTAIN GUIDELINES ARE FOLLOWED TO THE LETTER. You should pm nicky pass, who had his wheels powder coated, but the powder coater did not strip the original finish, he just put powder on "on top" of the original finish, and the coatings were not compatible. Very expensive lesson.
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