htown

DO NOT BUY THESE FOR SLAMMED VEHICLES


Well, I was getting tired of my SPC camber kits hitting the top when bottoming out so I went ahead and bought the Ingalls Full Control Arms (Part No. 39208 & 39209) for clearance issues. The SPC adds 1" to the control arm.

After getting my alignment done, the control arms do not clear the inner fender at all leaving me at a 2 finger gap between my tire and the fender. Had to make the control arms a little bit more negative so I could clear it. Back to SPC it is.

Has anyone else had this problem?

datzdaboi

Do

datzdaboi

Do u think the same thing would happen if u tried to use the ingalls balljoints instead ?

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

i'm running the ingalls full control arms, i noticed that clearance is very tight sitting inside the fender. for the first week it kind of clunked on one side where it was tapping but it pushed some metal away and now it sits inside just fine, but i'm also not slammed. i have about 1.5 finger gap.

o1s

guess i won't be buying those.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

they are the only solution to the problem though. if installed correctly they should clear.

kyle77777

I have the ingalls and have not had any problem. But i am not slammed, just eibach springs

Louie11

I have the controll arms on a TEIN SS drop. I have a 1-1.5 finger drop. My front camber is -1.2 and I had a very slight rub. I saw where it was rubbing inside the strut tower and took a hammer to make a slight indention in the strut tower. After that no rubbing and no issue. Once again I am not slammed like you though. I got rid of the SPC kit for the same reason. I actually have these slight dimples in the engine compartment from the top bolt hitting it when I bottomed out.

Louie11

I forgot that I have the 39204-203. That might make the difference also.

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

I am dropped on the full control arms down to about a finger. while i was with the guy doing the alignment i learned the issue with these. i noticed that even setting up the screws to adjust way negative we were barley able to reach into the negative. the only solution i can think is to lengthen the slots that are cut into the arms themselves. this would allow the ball joint to slide further back, thus making the tire more negative. for now i was able to slam the ball joint far enough back on the slots to get my barley negative camber (i forgot the decimal number). i know in my pass. tire i have 0 deg. cuz i need to move the bolts to let the ball joint slide further back, i.e. negative. no clanking or anything like that.
I will say that these are a bitch to adjust and don't expect to take it somewhere and just drop it off. on the other hand i have only great things to say about ingalls rear kit!

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

are you running the full ingalls rear kit? it's 2 trailing arms per side, right? i plan to do this upgrade in the near future as my bushings are shot and rear trailing arms are frozen. does the kit comes with new bolts too?

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

yes it is two arms per side and the old bolts were reused.

i keep going back and reading the first post concerning only being able to get down 2 fingers. i believe when we did mine i can still go lower than the current 1 finger without any issues, besides the depth of the slots limiting the amount of neg camber. i might have to pull the tires this weekend and see what i've got going on.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

the outer most part of the control arm will rub against the outer most part of the fender, after a week of driving on it, the metal just bent itself in a little and now it's fine. you can probably tap the metal in a bit like someone mentioned above.

you are not going to get anywhere with the SPC kit and slammed. i destroyed my SPC kit and i'm not even slammed. your better off sueezing the control arms in w/ the low profile balljoint.

good luck man.

htown

Which kit do you have? The +1-4 degrees or the other kit? And why are you wanting more negative camber?

htown

Where exactly was it rubbing? Did you just take off the wheel and just start hammering the inner fender?

htown

Are you talking about the metal as in the inner fender?

htown

I may not have clarified but there was a 2 finger gap because the control arm would not clear the inner fender. (This was when the camber was -.5) The only way to clear the control arm was to make it more negative. I don't have a gap anymore cause I made the camber more negative, but with the SPC's I was able to keep minimal camber.

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

i have the 39208 and 39207 (the +1 to +4 deg) kit. it was very minimal neg camber that i put on the tires cuz i was worried about rubbing (paperwork is in the car). turns out even with the pass tire at 0 deg. there is not any rubbing.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

hard to explain. the curved part of the control arm that sinks in to the fender, it taps in the strut tower i suppose, not really the fender. the ingalls control arm is much beefier at that section, but i think you should put your car on a lift where you can have the car sitting as it would on the ground, then look up into the fender and see where the control arm is hitting and how much room is to spare. it was very minimal clearance, but with your drop it may be significantly worse.

htown

Please post up your specs when you can get to it. I believe I am lower then you so that is probably why I still have negative camber. I know I can get the car within OEM specs if I raised the car, but I would rather put on the other kit.

easymoney

not sure exactly what the issue is but i am not tucking tire but the top of the tire is maybe one finger. and i have not issues except a rattling on the front left side but i think it is the omni's...

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

i dug around my room and car and can't seem to locate them. i want to say the front driver was like -.2 and the front pass was 0. The rear was also barley neg. I will post once i find it after some more searching.

maybe i am right on the line of my arms hitting the tops of the fender, any lower and i might also hit. who knows.

Louie11

The rubbing wasn't in the fender, but in the strut tower. Like cleancl mentioned the side of the control arm where the brake line runs is alittle thicker and it would slightly rub. I just had to give the inner strut tower a few taps. In my case it was the arm that was rubbing not the tire at all. I'm gettting my new TEIN ss put on this friday so I'll see if I can take pictures of where it was rubbing and where I hammered the inner tower.

htown

Cool, I would appreciate it.

Louie11

Got the new suspension on and was finally able to take pics for ya.

Driver side control arm and strut tower

[IMG][/IMG]



Passenger control arm and strut tower

htown

Did you just hammer that part in and it went away?

Louie11

Yes, and with a normal hammer not even a sledge. As you can see from the pics it should be slightly rounded at that point. I just made it flat. I knew where to hammer because there was slight scratches at that point and on the control arm. Which is now rusted just like everything else on this car thanks to the excessive salting they do here in chicago.

cltypeSLOW

and you made fun of me for cutting holes in mine

htown

LOL, if only you knew. This car will be giving me no more problems!

GroundedCustom

boy am i glad to hear im not the only one.. what kind of "extreme" lowering camber kit smashes the inner strut whell well ?? absolute bull...
I have the same issue and im gunna hav to break out th ehammer. Whats th epoint of having a camber adjustment but not being able to slam it cus it bangs.
Did you acutally cut holes?? did anybody lengthen the slots in the ball joint adjustbiltity???

The rear ingals seems quality all though its a simple design which is probably harder to screw up. its a rod with left and right hand threads with screwed bushings. simple and effective...

Front issues solved how? please explain...