richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Has anyone cut a hole threw the shock tower to allow the upper ball joint to move more freely ?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

it was mentioned in a thread started the other day here is the link https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-tires-wheels-suspension-54/why-we-recommend-rear-camber-kits-without-ball-joints-775337/

btw you should probably put this type of post under the suspension section. Refer to RooEng's post.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Yea I saw it and I posted already.
Thanks,
I put most of the thread here first because moore people see this first.
If mods want to move they can.

dsickles

iTrader: (5)

nauman did it, hopefully he sees this thread

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i did drill holes in my accord, when i had adjustable ball joints, look kinda ghetto now that i look back on it, but as far as getting the holes in the right spot, i had drilled it after it had left indents in the tower, so i just centered the hole saw on those

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

^ I did too.
Mine is done.
I used 2 1/8" hole saw.
Now,their is no noise at all from the uppers.
It really dont look bad at all.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

sorry old accord lol, i sold it when my TL came up for sale

but yes it did fix the noise those, don't get me wrong (only to a point though, it still bottom out occasionally though ), but i would probably not ever do it again though, and just go the stiffer springs and shocks route (such as coilovers) (i was still on the stock shocks with 100k on them )

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Here's the cuts.
I need to clean them up and make them nice.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

yeah..... when i had done mine, i just spray painted them and called it good , car was a very dark gray anyways so did not really stand out, and we don't get the rust here like you, so did not really have to worry about that either

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

btw that fuse won't do shit being that amperage, wire can't handle that, so it will butrn up first if something shorts, and even then if you are really pulling that power (if the alternator could even support it), you should have a couple of batteries or something in the back

and figureing that is 1/0 gauge wire or so

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

A little off topic but,I can roll with it.

My sub amps pull 320 amps. My wire can flow 300amps
I have all 0 gauge wire. Done big 3
300amp fuse under hood, block in the back splits to 2 150amp fuses,
0 right to the amps with reducers.
Amps are both grounded seprately with 0.
I had two batts in the back before.
Now I only have one under the hood and I'm running my amps only at 2ohms now insted of .5 ohms.
So they are only putting out 1100 wrms each right now insted of the 2000 each they are capablerunning @ .5 ohm.
audio I got a good handle on what's going on.
I know all the things I need to run everything correctly.
I'm just easy with it since I do need a bigger alt and at least one extra batt.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

fair enough, but i would still put those batteries back in the back though, and then maybe at least downgrade that fuse up front, since you want that to be the weakest link in the system, and not the wire itself (remember you probably got 15 feet of wire from the front to the back of the car; and the heat underhood for that small section, which all downgrades the rating on the wire, so i would rather play it safe, nd possibly replace the fuse occasionally then be replacing a car burnt down to the ground

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

try for a gauge wire size chart, and it is better to over estimate then have a car fire

and what i think you are underestimating is the amount of wire run that is truely there

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Playing it safe with the volume and the gains.
Don't want to see the magic smoke from lack of current.
I jump around on projects on my car daily I will get back to the system.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

LMFAO, i do that too, jumping back and forth on stuff

RooEng

I was about to reply to your other post. Mine looks like Richardparker's, I think it was his picture I found while searching the problem a while ago. I just did what he did and like friesm2000 said, just center the drill on the pimple.

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I know your not driving that low.
Coilovers slamed,or not strut present ?

The only rubbing issues I have now are my tires are just too high to ride with mine slamed.
Parked on a flat surface I can lock out my wheels and it's barely touching.
Cornering it rubs.
So I guess I have to up the front a little.
I want it low as possible so I will be adjusting only 1/16" at a time till I can deal with it.
I tryied pulling the fenders up but,it turns the botom of the fender near the door out and it make the lines look like crap,to me anyway.

02type-s

Im on K-Sports almost all the way stiff and mine do it all the fucking time....i cant stand it...just dont know if im ready to cut lol

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

do it.
I wish I did it a long time ago.
day and night differnce

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

lol
actually update on those new arms up front, i just did my first oil change since i did them, so the car was up and i looked at them, and the arms are actually not hitting, it's the bilstien shocks bottoming out lol

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

After making the circle holes for the upper nut to come threw.
I've made 2 circles off of each circle that would make them look like a mickey mouse symbol,so the arms could come threw.
I was still getting hitting and I could not see anything.
Come to find out it's the mount for the abs wire on the upper arm that sticks off a little.

I'm going to do some griding and see if it clears for no noise with out removing first..
If it dont, then the mount comes off till I can make it clear then drill new hole for the mount.